Paint in body color in a can: professional repair with your own hands

Local body damage, such as gravel chips or scratches after parking, often does not require an expensive visit to the service with a complete repainting of the part. The modern market of autochemistry offers an effective solution. spray-paintIt is tailored to the tone of your car. This allows the owner to independently eliminate the defect, preserving the factory paint coating on the rest of the body.

However, the process requires not just the purchase of canister, but strict adherence to the technology of preparation and application. The wrong approach will cause the stain to stand out and the coating can detach quickly. In this article, we will discuss how to choose the right shade for VIN codeWhat tools will be needed and how to avoid common mistakes when painting yourself.

The main advantage of the method is speed and cost savings. You do not need to buy compressor, spray gun and diluents, as propane-butane The inside of the balloon already creates the necessary pressure for spraying. But the success of the operation depends on 80% on the quality of degreasing and tone selection.

Accurate selection of shade: work with codes and samples

The most critical stage is to find the perfect color match. Car paint tends to burn out under the influence of ultraviolet light, so the new layer may differ from the old one, even if the color code is identical. First, you need to find a sign with VIN code and the paint code, which is usually located on the body rack or in the hood space.

Manufacturers of aerosols often use computer selection systems, where the body code is made individual mixture. However, if the car was in use for more than 5 years, the color may have changed. In such cases, professionals are advised to do so. stretcher (test application) on a separate part or metal plate to compare the dried sample with the body.

⚠️ Warning: Never rely on visual color comparisons in a store under artificial lighting. Daylight can drastically change the perception of shade, and you risk buying a can of can that will be different in the sun.

If the exact code of the paint could not be found, you can use the services of colorists who mix the enamel, looking at the gas tank hatch or the inside of the trunk lid. It is more expensive, but it gives the best result. There are also universal fan catalogs, but their error is too large for demanding car owners.

Required materials and workplace preparation

For a qualitative result, one can of enamel is not enough. You will need a full set of materials for surface preparation and finishing. The basis is soil or separate acid soil if the damage has reached the metal. Without priming, the paint will lie unevenly and quickly begin to corrode.

Also necessary is a degreasing agent. Regular gasoline or solvent can leave a greasy film, so use a specialized one. antisilicone. To protect the surrounding areas from pollination, paint scotch and cover paper or film will be needed. Don’t forget about personal protective equipment: respirator and gloves.

• 🛠️ A set of abrasives: sandpaper gradations P80, P240, P600 and P1000 for grinding transitions.
• 🧴 Chemistry: degreaser, antistatic (to remove dust) and polyrene for finishing.
• 🧤 Protection: nitrile gloves, carbon filter respirator and safety glasses.

The workplace should be well ventilated, but without drafts that can cause dust to fresh paint. The optimal temperature for working with aerosols is from +18 to +22 degrees Celsius. At lower temperatures, the paint may not spread, forming a “sling”, and at high temperatures it can dry too quickly, creating matte spots.

Technology of surface preparation for painting

The quality of the final coverage depends on how well you have prepared the repair area. The first step is always to wash and dry the part. Then the damaged area is cleaned. If there is rust, it must be removed mechanically to pure metal, using a rust converter if necessary.

The boundaries of the cleaned area should be smooth. Use the “ladder” method, gradually reducing the graininess of sandpaper from the center of the damage to the edges. This will make the transition between the old paint and the new layer invisible. After grinding, the surface is carefully blown with compressed air and wiped. degreaser.

Grinding sequence:
1. Removal of rust and old LCP: P80-P120
2. Transition Risks: P240-P320
3. Underground preparation: P400-P500
4. Finishing of the soil: P800-P1000

It is important not to touch the prepared surface with your hands, as the skin fat will spoil the adhesion. If more than 2 hours have passed between degreasing and painting, the cleaning procedure must be repeated. Dust that has settled before painting is best removed with a sticky napkin or antistatic.

Paint and varnish application process

Before starting work, the canister must be shaken intensively for 2-3 minutes to mix the components and raise the metal fractions (if it is metallic). Test spraying is better done sideways to check the torch. The paint is applied from a distance of 20-25 cm from the surface in short movements.

The first layer should be thin, almost transparent – this is the so-called “dust” layer to improve the grip. It dries quickly, about 10-15 minutes. The second and third layers are applied more abundantly, but without the formation of subtexts. The movements of the arm should be smooth, capturing the edges of the repaired area to create a smooth transition.

⚠️ Please do not try to paint everything the first time! A thick layer of paint is guaranteed to flow under gravity, and you will have to completely wash off the coating and start over.

If you use the system "base enamel + varnish", then after drying the base (it will become matte), you need to apply 2-3 layers of acrylic varnish. Lacquer gives depth to the color and protects the pigment from burnout. Between the layers of varnish it is also necessary to withstand interlayer drying, indicated by the manufacturer on the can.

The Secret of the Perfect Torch

Keep the spray strictly perpendicular to the surface. If you tilt your hand at an angle, the center of the torch will be thicker than the edges, which will lead to uneven application and stripes.

Table of drying time and temperature regimes

Compliance with drying time intervals is critical for polymerization of materials. Haste at this stage can lead to clouding of the varnish or bloating of the paint. The following are indicative data for standard conditions (20°C).

Materials	Drying time (20°C)	Complete polymerization	Temperature limit
Gruntspray	15-20 minutes.	24 hours.	Not less than 10°C
Basic enamel	10-15 minutes.	1 hour	Not more than 25°C.
Acrylic lacquer	20-30 minutes.	24-48 hours	Not less than 15°C
Polishing	-	In 2 weeks.	After drying it out.

When working in the cold season, the drying time increases by 1.5-2 times. The use of heat guns is possible, but with caution: the air flow temperature should not exceed 60 degrees, so as not to boil the solvent inside the paint layer.

Removal of defects and finishing polishing

After drying completely, the surface may have defects such as “orange peel” (shagrin), dust, or small underdraws. Wet grinding is used to eliminate them. P1500-P2000 sandpaper soaked in water is carefully used to level the surface of the varnish.

Then comes the polishing process. First, an abrasive paste is used to remove the drawings from the sandpaper, and then a finishing paste to give gloss. It is best to polish with a polishing machine with a soft circle, but you can do it manually, although it will take much more time and effort.

• 🌫️ Removal of shashaven: grinding the P2000 to wet until mattage appears.
• ✨ Abrasive polishing: medium-grain paste to remove risks.
• 💎 The finishing gloss: soft paste and polish with wax for protection.

As a result, you should get a smooth, shiny surface, indistinguishable from the factory. If the color transition is still noticeable, it may be necessary to polish the entire element entirely using abrasive clay to create a single visual field.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I paint the body in a can in winter on the street?

It's not recommended. Low temperature and high humidity will lead to the fact that the paint will fall matte, may turn white (the effect of “indecent”) or not dry at all. You need to work in a warm, dry room.

How many cans do you need to paint a door?

For a full painting of the door, 2-3 cans of the base (400 ml) and 2 cans of varnish are usually required. For local repair (spot) often enough one cylinder of each type, but it is better to take with a margin.

Do I need to remove the part from the car?

Not necessarily, but preferably for access to the ends. If it is impossible to remove, carefully seal all neighboring elements, glass and pens with paint tape and film so that the pollinator does not settle on them.

What to do if the color is different?

If the difference in tone is obvious, only the method of “transition” (stretching paint) to neighboring body elements or a complete repainting of the part will help. Also, the color can be leveled after the first polishing, when the shaver is removed.