The situation when the paint coating ceases to perform its protective functions and begins to peel off is familiar to many car owners. This is not only an aesthetic problem, but also a signal that the body is losing protection from corrosion. When you see that stainIt is important to correctly describe the nature of the damage so that the master in the service or the seller of materials immediately understands the scale of the disaster. In Russian, there are many terms that accurately characterize this process, from technical to colloquial.
Understanding the difference between simple fading and deep detachment is critical to choosing a repair method. If the surface layer simply lost its shine, polishing will suffice. However, if the rejection of layers has begun, more serious intervention will be required, up to the stripping of the metal. In this article, we will discuss how to correctly name this defect, why it occurs and what are the ways to return the car to its original appearance.
Often, owners are faced with the fact that the coating is swelling or cracking, especially after the winter season. Using the right terms will help you diagnose the problem more accurately when communicating with specialists. We will discuss the main reasons why paintwork (LCP) is becoming unusable, and we will propose an algorithm of actions to eliminate the consequences.
Synonyms and professional terminology
When they say that the paint has climbed, in a professional environment of body repairs, more accurate definitions are used. The most common term is flaking. It describes the process by which the top layer of enamel or varnish is separated from the primer or metal. This phenomenon is also often called flaking or rejection coverings. Depending on the shape of the defect, the wizard may use the word "blown" or "bubble" if cavities with air or rust have formed under the paint.
There is also a more specific terminology that describes the stages of destruction. For example, the term crucifixion (or "craters") indicates the appearance of small depressions, similar to bullet marks, which is often a consequence of a violation of painting technology. If the paint is just matte and rough, they say about it. oxidation or minnowing surface. It is important to distinguish between these concepts, as the treatment methods for each case are radically different.
In colloquial speech, you can hear the expressions โpaint climbedโ, โswelled upโ, โclimbed to metalโ. However, to order materials or record for the service, it is better to use technically competent wording. This will demonstrate your competence and help avoid misunderstanding. The correct name of the problem is the first step to quality repair.
- ๐ Detachment Complete or partial separation of the paint layer from the base.
- ๐ก๏ธ Corrosion - destruction of metal under the layer of LCP, which is often the cause of swelling.
- ๐จ Oxidation loss of color and gloss due to exposure to ultraviolet light and oxygen.
- ๐ง Bloating. Local lifting of paint above the surface of the body.
Causes of destruction of paint coating
Why is the paint starting to peel off? Most often, poor-quality surface preparation before painting is to blame. If the metal was poorly defatted or moisture remained on it, the adhesion (clutch) of the materials will be broken. Over time, corrosion begins to develop under the layer of paint, which literally pushes the enamel outward, forming characteristic โredheadsโ and bubbles. This is a classic mistake that is made when you have cheap body repairs.
The second common cause is the impact of an aggressive external environment. Road reagents containing salts fall on the body and, mixing with water, form an aggressive solution. It penetrates through microcracks and chips, reaching the metal. If you do not remove the chip in time, the rusting process will start very quickly. Also negatively affect temperature changes, causing the expansion and compression of materials at different speeds.
โ ๏ธ Attention: Ignoring small chips on the hood or sills in 90% of cases leads to deep corrosion and extensive detachment of the paint within one to two years.
The third factor is mechanical damage and chemical effects. Stones from under the wheels, tree branches, improper washing with hard brushes - all this violates the integrity of the lacquer layer. In addition, the use of aggressive chemicals to wash the engine or body can corrode the protective layer, making the paint vulnerable.
Hidden causes of detachment
Sometimes the paint gets peeled off due to incompatibility of materials. If the factory enamel has been sprayed with a different chemical composition without a special insulating soil, a reaction may begin leading to wrinkling and rejection of the upper layer.
Diagnosis of the degree of damage
Before you sound the alarm and look for a painter, you need to assess the scale of the disaster. Make a visual inspection of the body in good lighting. If the paint simply faded, but to the touch the surface is smooth, most likely, only the upper layer of varnish is damaged. In this case, the situation is corrected by polishing with abrasive. However, if the nail clings to the edges of the defect, then the damage is deeper.
Use the "knocking" method. Tap your knuckle on a suspicious area. A deaf sound may indicate that the paint has already detached from the metal and is held only along the edges of the defect. A magnet wrapped in fabric can also be used: if it has stopped attracting or is attracted weaker at the site of the defect (provided there is no putty there), it is possible that the layer of the LCD has become too thick due to bloating.
For accurate diagnosis of the depth of damage often use a thickness meter. This device will show the real thickness of the coating in microns. Factory values usually range in the range of 80-140 ฮผm. If the device shows values above 200-300 ฮผm, then the part was repainted. A sharp jump in readings or readings โ0โ (if punched to plastic or aluminum) indicate a critical condition.
| Type of defect | Visual signs | Depth of damage | Elimination method |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oxidation | Matness, roughness, loss of color | Only lacquer | Abrasive polishing |
| Scotch | Point damage to metal | To metal/soil | Spot paint, pencil. |
| Bloating. | Bubbles, bumps on the surface | Detachment from metal | Cleaning, primer, painting |
| Cracks | A network of small cracks (webweb) | All over the thickness of the LCP | Full repainting of detail |
Accurate diagnosis allows you to choose between cosmetic repair and complete repainting, saving significant funds.
Preparing for local recovery
If the area of damage is small, you can do local repairs. The main rule: you can not paint over rust or peeled paint from above. This only preserves the problem, and in a couple of months the defect will appear again, becoming even larger. All unstable areas must be removed. For this purpose, sandpaper of various grains or special abrasive circles on the drill are used.
You need to start with cleaning the edges of damage to create a smooth transition ("roll" edges) between the whole paint and bare metal. This is necessary so that the new layer of material does not form a step. After mechanical cleaning, the surface is necessarily degreased with a special anti-silicone solvent. The use of gasoline or acetone is not recommended, as they can leave a greasy film or soften the surrounding paint.
โ๏ธ Preparation for painting
The important step is to protect the surrounding areas. If you work on the body, it is better to close the neighboring parts with paint tape and covering material so that dust and paint drops do not fall on them. It is also worth making sure that there are no drafts and dust in the room, since any motley that gets on fresh paint will spoil the result.
Technology of applying soil and paint
After the metal is cleaned and defatted, it is necessary to apply the soil. For body repairs, two-component acrylic soil is most often used. It provides a reliable basis for paint and provides anti-corrosion protection. The soil is applied in 2-3 thin layers with interlayer drying, the time of which is indicated on the packaging of the material (usually 10-15 minutes). Do not try to fill everything at once - can go to the leaks.
When the soil is dry (full polymerization can take from several hours to a day, depending on the temperature and type of hardener), it must be wrapped with fine sandpaper (P600-P800) under painting. Then the base is applied - colored enamel. The paint is also applied in several layers (usually 2-3), giving each layer to "sweat" (evaporate solvent) for 5-10 minutes. It is important to follow the temperature recommended by the manufacturer.
โ ๏ธ Warning: Never apply paint to wet or cold ground. This will lead to clouding of the coating (matted spots) and poor adhesion, causing the paint to peel off again.
The final step is to apply the varnish if you have restored the metal or pearl paint. Lacquer protects the colored layer from burnout and gives gloss. It is applied in 2 layers: the first is thin ("fog"), the second is more abundant, but without fanaticism to avoid leaks. After drying the varnish (usually after 24 hours), you can start polishing the transitions, if the border of repair is noticeable.
Prevention and care of the body
To the question โhow to say that the paint has climbedโ never arose again, you need to properly care for the car. Regular washing is not just an aesthetic, but also the removal of aggressive reagents. However, you need to wash the car correctly: use a two-phase method, soft sponges and high-quality shampoo with wax. High pressure washers should be directed at an angle so as not to drive water under the chips.
Additional protection is provided by polymers, waxes and ceramic coatings. They create a film on the surface that takes on the blows of fine sand and chemistry, keeping the factory paint intact. Applying such a coating once a year significantly prolongs the life of the LCP. It is also useful to periodically inspect the body and quickly paint the chips appearing with special restoration pencils.
Use protective anti-gravel films on the most vulnerable places: the hood, bumper and rapids. This is the best investment in the safety of paint.
Parking also plays a role. Avoid parking under trees (bird droppings and tar corrode the varnish in a matter of days) and under power lines. In winter, try not to park in snowdrifts where the paint comes in contact with snow heated by exhaust fumes and containing salts.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I paint the rust without cleaning?
Absolutely not. Rust converters are a temporary solution. If the oxidized metal is not removed mechanically, corrosion will continue to develop under the new paint layer, and after a short time it will rise again.
How much paint will dry after local repairs?
The drying time depends on the air temperature and the type of hardener. At +20ยฐC, primary drying takes about 30 minutes, but the full strength and washability of the coating gains after 24 hours, and polymerization lasts up to 2 weeks.
Why did the paint get off a week after painting?
Most likely, the technology was disrupted: poor degreasing, application to a wet surface, incompatibility of materials or a too thick layer that has not dried inside. The reason may also be the lack of soil.
Do I need to remove the detail to paint the chip?
For small chips, the detail does not need to be removed. Local repairs are carried out on site. Removal is required only for large areas of damage or if you need to paint the entire part for perfect color.