The appearance of the wheels is the first thing that pay attention when assessing the car’s well-groomedness. Even if the body shines clean, dimmed or scratched discs can spoil the impression of the whole machine. That's why. disc-paint remains one of the most popular materials in the arsenal of motorists and professional children. This classic color is versatile, fits 90% of car models and hides finer pollution than glossy black or bright chrome.
The process of restoring or changing the color of the discs requires not only high-quality materials, but also strict adherence to technology. Incorrectly selected enamel or violation of the stages of surface preparation can lead to the fact that the coating will begin to break down after a couple of months of operation. In this article, we will discuss in detail what types of silver coatings exist, how they differ in composition and how to achieve factory quality in garage conditions.
Before you start buying cans or cans of enamel, you need to assess the condition of your disks. If there are deep chips, corrosive foci or deformations on the surface, a simple painting will not save the situation - preliminary restoration will be required. However, for color renewal and protection from reagents, a properly selected paint material will be the ideal solution.
Types of coatings and their features
The automotive chemistry market offers several types of coatings that can visually look the same, but have a completely different chemical base and lifespan. The most affordable option is acrylic enamel. They dry quickly, are easy to apply and are great for stamped Or cast models that are not subjected to extreme loads. Acrylic forms an elastic film that resists the impact of small stones well.
Polyurethane formulations are considered to be a more professional solution. They create a much harder coating, resistant to abrasion, aggressive chemistry on sinks and high temperatures that occur during braking. Polyurethane paint Often requires mixing with a hardener, which complicates the application process, but guarantees a result close to the factory. These compositions are ideal for cast and forged discs.
⚠️ Warning: Never use conventional nitro-enamels or metal paints without heat-resistant additives. When heated from the braking system, they may turn yellow, swell or lose adhesion, which will lead to flaking of the coating.
Separately, it is worth mentioning powder paints. This is perhaps the most durable solution, which is applied in special chambers followed by baking at high temperatures. At home, this process is almost impossible to repeat due to the need to use a furnace and an electrostatic sprayer. Therefore, for independent work, we consider mainly liquid two-component or aerosol compositions.
Required tools and materials
The quality of the final result depends on the surface preparation and the availability of the right tools for 80% of the results. You don’t need any industrial equipment, but the set should be complete. The basis is the paint itself (enamel) and varnish for finish protection, if it is not included in the kit. For silver discs, a special varnish is often used that does not yellow over time to maintain a cold metal hue.
A set of abrasives will be required to clean the surface. Start with coarse grains to remove old paint and rust, gradually moving to fine-grained skins to create risks under the ground. Also indispensable degrease, paint tape, cover film or newspapers to protect rubber, and, of course, personal protective equipment - respirator and gloves.
- 🛠️ Abrasive materials: sandpaper with grain P80, P240, P400 and P800, and a metal brush or grinding nozzle on the drill.
- 🧪 Chemistry: degreasing agent (antisilicone), rust converter (if necessary), acid or epoxy soil, acrylic or polyurethane enamel, 2K-varnish.
- 🛡️ Protection and expenditure: paint tape, cover film, solvent for washing spray gun (if not used aerosol), rags.
If you plan to use a spray gun, make sure it has a duse of the right size (usually 1.3-1.5 mm for base and varnish). For aerosol cylinders, it is important to have a convenient spray nozzle, which often comes with a complete set, but sometimes it has to be purchased separately for a more uniform torch.
Surface Preparation: A Key Stage
No, not even the most expensive. disc-paintIt will not stay on a dirty, greasy or oxidized surface. The first step is to thoroughly wash the disc using auto shampoo and a hard brush to remove all road dirt and bitumen stains. After drying, the disc must be treated with a degreasing agent.
Then comes the mechanical cleaning. All defects, chips and remnants of old lacquer should be removed. If the disc has corrosion foci, they must be cleaned to pure metal and treated with a rust converter, which will turn the oxides into a stable layer, preventing further spread of corrosion. The surface should become matte and rough - this will ensure maximum soil adhesion.
☑️ Checklist for disc preparation
After grinding, be sure to blow the disc with compressed air to remove dust from the metal pores. Re-wipe the surface with a degreaser, using a lilaless napkin to avoid leaving the villi. Only then can you start to roast. Skipping the degreasing stage is the most common reason that the paint swells in bubbles after a short time.
Paint and lacquer technology
The painting process requires a temperature regime (optimally 18–22°C) and no drafts if you work indoors. The soil is applied in 2-3 thin layers with interlayer drying specified by the manufacturer (usually 10-15 minutes). The task of the soil is to level the microrelief and create a base for color.
When the soil is dry and polished (if necessary), it is applied itself. silver-enamel. The technique of applying "wet to wet" is not always applicable here, it is better to make several thin layers. The first layer can be translucent - that's normal. The second and third layers must cover the surface completely. It is important to keep the spray can or spray gun at a distance of 20-25 cm and move evenly to avoid leaks.
The final stage is to apply the varnish. For discs, it is recommended to use a two-component lacquer (2K), which has increased hardness. The lacquer is applied in 2 layers. The first layer is thin, binding. The second is more greasy, glossy. It is the varnish that takes the brunt of gravel and chemistry, protecting the colored layer.
The secret of the perfect metallic
If you use paint with a metallic effect, after drying the base (before the varnish), gently walk along the surface with a soft dry brush or a special napkin to spread the aluminum powder. This will make the silver more uniform and deep, but it must be done with extreme care not to lubricate the base.
Between the layers of paint and varnish, be sure to observe the time of "study" so that the solvent has time to evaporate. If you hurry, bubbles will remain in the coating, which, when the disk is heated, will expand and destroy the paint coating. Drying should take place in a warm, dry place, away from direct sunlight, which can cause uneven drying.
Comparison of popular brands and compositions
The choice of a particular product often depends on budget and availability. There are many brands on the market, from professional automobile lines to universal building enamels. Below is a comparative table of popular options available for purchase.
| Brand/Type | Basis | Resilience | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kudo (Aerosol) | Acrylic | Medium | Availability, wide palette of silver shades |
| Motip (Aerosol) | Acrylic | Medium/High | Good cover, there are versions with varnish in the composition |
| Brulex / Duxone | Polyurethane (2K) | Tall. | Requires mixing, professional quality |
| Jeta Paint | Acrylic/Polyurethane | Tall. | Specialized lines for wheeled discs |
When choosing, pay attention to the labeling High Solid This means a high dry residue content, which gives a thicker and stronger coating with fewer layers. Also look for a mark on heat resistance to 100-120 ° C, as the discs heat up much more than the body of the car.
When buying paint in an aerosol cylinder, always take one more cylinder than you think you need. In the process of painting discs, there is a high risk of going into “over-consumption” due to the complex geometry of spokes and the need to cover the old color.
Typical errors and security measures
One of the most common mistakes is painting cold discs or in a too wet room. Condensate, protruding on the metal, will lead to the fact that the paint will lie with a defect of the "craters" or begin to peel off by layers. Also, do not ignore the primer, applying the color immediately to the metal or old paint - the adhesion will be weak.
Safety when working with paints is the number one priority. Solvent vapors and sprayed acrylic dust are toxic. Work should be done in a well-ventilated room or outdoors, necessarily using a respirator with carbon filters. The ingress of paint on the skin can cause a strong allergic reaction, so gloves are required.
⚠️ Note: When working with two-component varnishes (2K), be extremely careful. Once on the skin, such a varnish is almost impossible to wash off with conventional means, and its curing causes a chemical burn. Use nitrile gloves and protective glasses.
Another mistake is not drying enough before installing the wheel on the car. If you put a freshly painted disc and immediately start operating the machine, the brake system will heat the disc, the dry varnish will become cloudy or stick to the caliper. Let the coating gain the final strength - at least 24 hours, and preferably three days before the first wash or active driving.
The main secret of durability is not the brand of paint, but the quality of degreasing and compliance with the temperature regimes of drying between the layers.
Care for painted discs
After you have spent time and effort on painting, you want to keep the result as long as possible. Modern road reagents, especially in winter, are extremely aggressive. Regular car washing should include thorough cleaning of the inner part of the discs from brake dust, which has abrasive properties.
For washing, use special shampoos for discs or neutral car shampoos. Avoid aggressive acid chemistry that can matt the varnish. Every 2-3 months it is recommended to apply protective wax or ceramic composition to discs. This will create a hydrophobic layer that facilitates washing away dirt and adds extra gloss.
When small chips appear, do not expect corrosion to spread. Paint the defect point by using the same paint or a special pencil. If you notice the varnish bloating, it is better to immediately clean this area and restore the coating locally than to redo the entire disk in six months.
What temperature does the paint on the discs withstand?
High-quality automotive enamel and varnishes withstand heating to 120-150 ° C. The brake system during emergency braking can heat the hub and the inner part of the disc to 200 ° C and above, but the outer part where the paint is applied usually does not exceed 80-100 ° C in normal driving. Powder paints can withstand up to 200 ° C.
Can I paint the discs without removing the rubber?
Technically possible if you carefully seal the sidewall of the tire with paint tape and film. However, this increases the risk of paint hitting the rubber and takes longer to prepare. Removed tire allows you to paint the end of the disc and the inner shelf, which significantly improves the appearance.
How much dried paint for discs?
The drying time "on the stick" is 30-60 minutes. Complete polymerization (strength set) occurs within 24 hours at a temperature of +20 ° C. It is recommended to operate the car without restrictions after 3-7 days, when the coating reaches maximum hardness.
Do I need to remove the old paint completely?
If the old coating is held firmly, does not have bloating and deep scratches, it can simply be wrapped (make matte) with large sandpaper and primed. Complete removal is only required if there is corrosion under the paint layer or if the old coating is flaked.