Chips, scratches or a faded bumper—every car owner faces these problems. Local painting is the most budget-friendly way to return a car to a neat appearance, but here lies the main difficulty. Perfect color match It seems impossible without specialized equipment, especially if the factory shade has lost its saturation over the years of use.
The key to solving the problem is VIN code, which contains comprehensive information about the factory body color. Many people mistakenly believe that simply buying a can of color from a car dealership will solve the problem. In fact, there can be dozens of shades of “white” or “black”, and they are radically different from each other.
In this article we will look at how to find the exact paint code, what nuances there are when ordering aerosols, and whether you should trust computer selection at all. The accuracy of matching by VIN code reaches 98%, while visual matching “by eye” often results in a discrepancy in tone even within one part. Let's look at the process in detail so you can save on painter services.
Where to look for the paint code on a car
The first and most important step is to look for the nameplate or data sticker. The location of this item depends on the make and model of your car. Most often, information is duplicated in several places for ease of identification when doing body repairs or ordering spare parts.
The most common locations for color code plates are:
- 🚗 Body pillar on the driver's door side (lower part).
- 🚗 Engine compartment, on a metal partition or shock absorber cup.
- 🚗 Trunk, in the spare wheel niche or on the inside of the lid.
- 🚗 In the glove compartment or under the mat in the trunk (typical for some BMW and Mercedes models).
The plate itself can be metal with embossed symbols or a paper sticker. You are interested in the field marked as Color, Paint, C/TR or Farb Nr. The code usually consists of an alphanumeric combination, e.g. 3T3 for Toyota or LY7C for Volkswagen.
⚠️ Attention: Never use the entire VIN code to select paint in online catalogs without decoding. Although the VIN contains color information, most matching systems require a short enamel code rather than the 17-digit body identifier.
VIN decoding and enamel code search
Even after finding the code, do not rush to order a can. Paints come in different types of base: acrylic, metallic, mother-of-pearl or “chameleon”. An error in determining the type of enamel will result in the part being different in structure, even if the shade matches perfectly.
For accurate identification, use the designation correspondence table for popular brands:
| Car make | Designation on the plate | Typical location | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Toyota / Lexus | C/TR | Door pillar, under the hood | The color code comes first, followed by the interior code |
| Volkswagen / Audi | LB / LY / LA | In the trunk, in the service book | The code always starts with the letter L |
| BMW | A-Nr | Under the hood, door pillar | Often a 4-digit code, such as 300 |
| Ford | EXT PNT | Driver's door pillar | Two-digit alpha or numeric code |
| Kia / Hyundai | Color Code | Door pillar, under the hood | Usually 3 characters |
If the sign has lost readability or was removed during repainting, you still have the option to search by VIN code through specialized dealer databases or online services. However, this method is less reliable, since the database may not contain information about factory repaints.
Computer selection versus ready-made aerosols
When the code is found, the owner is faced with a choice: buy a ready-made can of a mass-market brand or order the production of an aerosol at a color center. Ready-made solutions from brands like Motip or Color Spray They are cheaper, but they are average.
Factory paint fades over time when exposed to ultraviolet radiation. The finished can will contain a “fresh” factory tint, which may look brighter or darker compared to the rest of the body. Computer selection takes this factor into account.
Advantages of producing spray paint according to VIN in a specialized laboratory:
- 🎨 An exact match to the current faded shade of the body.
- 🎨 Possibility of adding the necessary components (metallic, mother-of-pearl) in the correct proportion.
- 🎨 Selection of volume exactly for your task (from 150 ml to 1 liter).
- 🎨 Using original enamels (Mobihel, Duxone, PPG), and not cheap analogues.
The cost of such a can will be higher, about 2-3 times, but the result is worth it. you get individual recipe, mixed by computer to the nearest gram. This eliminates the risk of buying the “wrong” white color, of which manufacturers may have more than ten.
Spray painting technology: preparation
The quality of painting depends 80% on surface preparation. Simply spraying paint on a rust or chip means getting a stain that will begin to peel off within a month. Before starting work, it is necessary to carefully prepare the repair area.
The preparation process includes degreasing, rust removal and priming. If the damage is deep, putty will be required.
☑️ Checklist for preparation for painting
Pay special attention to the temperature. The paint in the can is very sensitive to environmental conditions. Optimum temperature - approx. +20°C. If the room is cold, the paint will lie “shagreen” or will not have time to spread, forming drips.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use acetone-based solvents to degrease before painting. Acetone can leave greasy streaks or react with some plastics and old paint, causing imperfections in the finish.
Process of applying paint and varnish
The spraying process itself requires skill. The can should be kept at a distance of 20-30 cm from the surface. Movements should be smooth, back and forth. You cannot hold the jet at one point - this is guaranteed to lead to the formation of drips.
The paint should be applied in 2-3 thin layers. The first layer may be translucent (dusty), this is normal. It creates adhesion for subsequent layers. The second and third layers are applied at intervals of 15-20 minutes until the surface is evenly colored.
If you are working with metallic or mother-of-pearl, after the paint has dried (usually after 30-60 minutes), you need to apply car varnish. The varnish protects the pigment from fading and adds depth to the color. For aerosol painting, there are special two-component varnishes in cans with a hardener activation button.
The secret to a perfect transition
When painting locally, try to “shade” the edges of the spot. Do not cut off the paint abruptly on a flat surface, otherwise the border will be visible. Smoothly reduce the pressure on the sprayer towards the edges of the part.
Polishing and finishing
After the varnish has dried (full polymerization takes from 24 hours to several weeks), the surface may have a roughness known as “shagreen”. This is normal for spray painting. Polishing will help remove this effect and give it a glossy shine.
You can start polishing only after the varnish has completely dried. If you start too early, the abrasive paste will pick up the soft varnish and the surface will become dull. You can check readiness by pressing with your fingernail in an inconspicuous place - if there are no marks, you can start.
For finishing you will need:
- 🧽 Abrasive paper P2000-P3000 (for wet sanding).
- 🧽 Polishing machine or drill with nozzle.
- 🧽 Polishing pastes (abrasive and finishing).
- 🧽 Microfiber to remove pasta residues.
The result of proper polishing will be a surface that is visually impossible to distinguish from the factory one. The transition line between the old and new paint will become invisible.
The quality of spray painting directly depends on the number of layers and the drying time between them. 5 thin layers are better than 2 greasy ones with drips.
Common mistakes when painting yourself
Even knowing the theory, beginners often step on the same rake. The most common mistake is ignoring humidity. You cannot paint in a damp garage or outside in fog: moisture condenses on the fresh varnish, causing clouding (“whitish coating”).
Another mistake is not mixing the can properly. Before use, the paint can must be shaken vigorously for at least 2-3 minutes so that the ball inside evenly distributes the pigment and metal particles. If this is not done, the first seconds of spraying will be pure solvent, and at the end - a thick paste of pigment.
Do not try to paint a large area, such as the entire bumper or fender, with one can. Paint consumption is always higher when working as a beginner. Calculate the volume in advance: on average, one body part (fender, door) requires 300-400 ml of enamel and the same amount of varnish.
Is it possible to completely spray paint a car?
Theoretically it is possible, but in practice this is an extremely labor-intensive process with a high risk of getting uneven color (“apple-colored”) and different shades. For complete repainting, it is better to use a spray gun and a compressor, where the pressure and spray pattern are more accurately controlled.
Do I need to remove the part for painting?
It is desirable for a high-quality result. It is easier to prepare the removed part, turn it over and paint it on all sides, avoiding paint on adjacent components. However, with experience and good insulation (masking), you can paint on site.
How long does it take for spray paint to dry?
Touch drying time is 15-30 minutes at +20°C. However, complete polymerization and strength gain occur within 24 hours. It is recommended to use the part (wash, polish) no earlier than every other day.
What to do if the paint bubbles?
Bubbles (boiling) occur due to the application of too thick a layer, high surface temperature or poor degreasing. The defect must be sanded down to metal, degreased again and paint applied in thin layers, observing the drying time.
Buy spray paint cans only in specialized auto enamel stores. Avoid universal paints “for metal”, as they do not have the necessary elasticity and resistance to gasoline and car washes.