How to choose the right paint for cars in cans: a professional approach

Local body repair is a procedure that sooner or later every car owner faces. A small scratch from a branch, a chip from gravel on the track or a rub on the bumper from the parking can seriously spoil the appearance of the car. The easiest and most affordable solution in such cases is the use of spray-canister with finished paint, which allow you to quickly eliminate the defect without contacting a specialized service. However, this process requires not only accuracy, but also accurate hitting the color, which often becomes the main problem.

Many beginners make the mistake of buying universal paints or choosing a shade “by eye” in the store. As a result, instead of discreet repairs, a bright spot is obtained, which attracts even more attention than the original defect. Modern technology allows you to create perfect It is a factory coating, but it is necessary to know the exact color code of your car and understand the features of the different types of enamels. Only a systematic approach ensures that the transition between old and new paint is minimal.

In this article, we will discuss in detail all the stages of selection: from the search for markings on the body to the choice of a specific manufacturer and type of paint. You will learn why it is important to distinguish between acrylic and metallics, how to read catalogs correctly and what nuances can emerge during the painting process. Proper preparation and the right choice of materials is 90% of the success of the whole event.

Search for color code and shade identification

The first and most critical step is to find the factory color code. The manufacturer of the car always leaves this information in the form of a special label or sticker. The location of this plate depends on the make and model of the machine: most often it is in the underhood space on the body rack, on the end of the door or in the trunk. The sticker will indicate a code consisting of letters and numbers that corresponds to a specific hue.

It is important to understand that it is impossible to visually identify the code, even if you are well versed in shades. For example, white color can have dozens of variations: "snow white", "milk", "pearl" and so on. Trying to guess the color by fan in the store of auto-enamels without binding to the code often leads to the purchase of the wrong tone. So always look. VIN code A technical information sheet before purchase.

⚠️ Note: If the color code plate has lost readability or was removed during a previous repair, do not try to guess the shade. In this case, the only true way is a computer-based selection of paint on a sample taken from a less noticeable body part, for example, from the inside of the doorway.

For some cars, especially Japanese and American brands, codes can be duplicated in a service book or even in documents when you buy. If you have owned a car for years, the code may already be in your archives. Otherwise, knowing the VIN code, you can contact the official dealer or use online directories that allow you to decrypt the complete set and color by VIN number.

Types of automotive enamels: acrylic, base and metallic

After the code is found, it is necessary to decide on the type of paint, since the application technologies are radically different. The main division goes on single-component acrylic enamel and two-component systems "base paint + varnish". Acrylic paints (often labeled as 1K) are dried by evaporating the solvent and form a glossy surface without the need for additional varnish coating. They are easier to use, but less resistant to mechanical stress.

Systems such as "metallic" or "pearl" always require two stages: first, a colored layer (base enamel) is applied, which does not have gloss and looks matte, and then a transparent layer is necessarily applied from above. varnish. Lacquer protects the pigment from burnout and gives depth to the color. If you paint the metallic with acrylic paint without varnish, the effect of overflow will be lost, and the coating will quickly become unusable.

• 🎨 Acrylic enamel - ready-to-use paint forming a glossy film, ideal for plastic elements and small local repairs.
• 💎 Basic enamel (Base Coat) - requires mandatory application of varnish, used for flowers with effects of metallic, xeralic and mother of mother of mother of mother of mother.
• 🛡️ aerosol lacquer - transparent finishing covering, providing protection and gloss, should be selected in tone (gloss, matte, half-mat).

The choice between these types depends on the factory coverage of your car. If the car is painted in a solid color (not metallic), most likely, acrylic is used there. If the sun is visible glitter or overflows - it is definitely a system with varnish. An error in choosing the type of paint will lead to the fact that the repaired part will differ in texture from the rest of the body, even if the color is selected perfectly.

Table of conformity of coating types and repair methods

To finally determine the necessary materials, it is worth turning to structured data. Different types of factory coatings require different approaches to restoration. Below is a table that will help you match the type of coverage you have with the required set of materials to buy in cans.

Please note that for matte coatings, the use of standard glossy varnishes is unacceptable, as this will change the texture of the part. It is also worth mentioning that two-component (2K) varnishes, which are often sold in bottom activator cans, provide much better chemical resistance than single-component counterparts. Activation occurs by pressing a special button at the bottom of the balloon before use.

Computer selection against ready-made solutions

There are two main ways to obtain paint in an aerosol spray: buying a ready-made solution for the color code or ordering a computer selection in a specialized laboratory. Prepared products from large manufacturers (such as: Motip, Dupli-Color, Kudo) convenient because they are always at hand in shops. However, their color range is limited to popular colors, and the accuracy of hitting the hue can vary depending on the batch.

Computer selection is a more accurate, but also more expensive option. In the lab, specialists mix components manually or automatically, taking into account not only the color code, but also the degree of burnout of your particular car. Over time, the paint burns out, and the new, even selected by code, can look brighter than the old body. Experienced colorists can slightly change the formula to get into the current state of the machine.

⚠️ Note: When ordering a computer selection, be sure to inform the master that the paint will be applied with a brush or from a spray. Pigments for spray gun and aerosol can have different degrees of grinding, which affects the final result.

If you choose a finished can, be sure to check the code on the label with the code of your car. Even within a single manufacturer, the same code (e.g., white) may be called differently in different product lines. Always compare the color on the can lid to the color of the car in daylight, as the artificial light in the store can distort the perception.

Volume calculation and preparation for purchase

One of the common mistakes is to miscalculate the amount of paint. A standard aerosol can contain from 300 to 500 ml of product. A small element, such as a mirror or a threshold, may be enough to paint. However, for a full-fledged painting of the wing, door or bumper, you will need at least 2-3 cylinders of paint and the same amount of varnish if we are talking about a system with varnishing.

The savings here are misplaced: if the paint ends in the middle of the process, the joint between the layers will be visible to the naked eye, and all the work will have to be remade. In addition, part of the material will go on trial spraying and tuning the spray torch. Always buy materials with a margin of 20-30%.

• 📏 Area of coverage - one cylinder of 400 ml is enough for about 1.5-2 square meters in one layer.
• 🧱 Soil and degreasing Do not forget to purchase aerosol soil (primer) for adhesion and degreasing for surface preparation.
• 🔧 Expendables - Painting tape, cover film and napkins are required for high-quality repair.

Also, you should pay attention to the date of production of paint. Aerosol cans have a limited shelf life. If the paint inside the balloon is too old, the pigment could have layered or thickened, making it impossible to spray properly. Shake the balloon: If only one ball is heard and there is no sound of rolling liquid, the product may no longer be usable.

Use nuances and safety practices

Working with car enamels in aerosols requires compliance with certain safety rules. The solvent vapors are toxic, and the paint itself is easily ignited when sprayed. Therefore, all work should be carried out in a well-ventilated room, ideally in a paint chamber or outside in windless weather, but away from fire sources.

The temperature of the environment also plays an important role. The optimal range for painting is from +18 to +25 degrees Celsius. At low temperatures, the paint can lie down in a shaft or not spread, and at high temperatures it can dry too quickly, forming craters. The humidity of the air should not exceed 75%, otherwise a whitish coating (mattenness) may appear on the glossy surface.

⚠️ Warning: Never try to speed up paint drying with fan heaters or open flames. Dramatic heating can cause the solvent to boil inside the layer, causing swelling and irreversible defects in the coating.

Before starting work, the balloon must be carefully heated to room temperature (if it is stored in the garage in winter) and shaken intensively for 2-3 minutes. Inside the balloon is a metal ball that mixes the components. Insufficient mixing will cause the color to differ from the stated, and the properties of the coating will deteriorate.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)