Painting a car is a process where the quality of the result depends on the correct base paint by 80%. It is not just a β€œcolor for the machine”, but a complex chemical composition that determines the durability of the coating, the resistance to burnout and even how the finishing varnish will look. Beginners often confuse base paint with acrylic enamels or "metallics", not realizing that the paint is not a "metallic" paint. base is a separate layer in a multi-layer body protection system.

In this article, we will understand how the base paint differs from other types of auto enamel, how to choose it correctly for a specific project (from budget repairs to show-car level), and why even professionals sometimes make mistakes with the ratio of "base / lacquer". And also – we will reveal the secrets of coloring, which save thousands of rubles on repainting.

What is a Basic Paint and Why You Need It

Basic paint (or just plain.) base) is a pigmented composition which is applied to the ground surface before finishing the varnish. Its main task is to give color and special effects (metallic, mother of pearl, chameleon), but defend bodywork. For protection is the varnish, which is applied over the top.

Unlike acrylic enamels (where color and protection are combined in a single layer), the base system offers three key advantages:

  • 🎨 Depth of color: due to the multilayered (base + varnish), the shade looks more saturated, especially in dark and metallized colors.
  • πŸ›‘οΈ Durability: the varnish above the base retains gloss longer and protects the pigment from burnout.
  • πŸ”§ Repairability: with scratches, it is often enough to polish the varnish without touching the base.

Basic paints are divided into three types by effect:

Type of database Features Examples of application
Solid. Uniform color without effects, completely covert Classical colors: black, white, red (for example, Ford Race Red)
Metallic (metallic) Contains aluminum powder, creates the effect of "sparks" Popular shades: Toyota Super White II, BMW Mineral Silver
Pearl/chameleon (pearl/flip) Changes the shade depending on the angle of view Premium colors: Honda Milano Red, Mazda Soul Red Crystal
⚠️ Attention.: Basic paints contain UV filters! Without varnish, they will burn out in 2-3 months even in garage conditions.

How to choose a basic paint: 5 criteria

The choice of base does not start with color, but with an analysis of operating conditions and budget. Here's what to consider:

1. Compatibility with soil and lacquer. Not all bases are "friendly" with any soil. For example, water-soluble bases (e.g., PPG Aquabase Plus) require special water-based soils. If you apply them to ordinary acrylic soil, it is possible Separation after 6-12 months due to chemical incompatibility.

2. cover-up. Cheap bases (for example, some Chinese counterparts) may require 4-5 layers to completely overlap the color, which increases the consumption of varnish and working time. Professional lines (e.g., Sikkens Autowave) covered in 2 layers.

3. Type of diluent. Bases are:

  • πŸ’§ Water-soluble (Environmental, but require special equipment for drying)
  • πŸ§ͺ Solvent-based (classical, for example) Dupont ChromaBase).
  • πŸ”₯ HS (High Solid) - with a high dry residue content (saves consumption, but are difficult to apply).

4. Color code. Even if you know the name of the color (for example, the name of the color). Audi Nugget Gold), always check with color-coded manufacturer (e.g., manufacturer) LY1W for that shade. The codes are indicated on the nameplate of the car (usually in the glove compartment or on the door counter).

5. Conditions of application. The temperature in boxing should be 20-23Β°Chumidity, no higher 60%. With deviations, the base can lie spots or lose the effect of metallic.

πŸ“Š What type of database do you use more often?
Solid.
Metallic
Pearl/chameleon
I don't paint myself.

Top 5 brands of basic paints: comparison in price and quality

The market for auto enamels is flooded with brands, but only 5 of them are truly worth seeing – both professionals and amateurs. We analyzed the reviews of the masters (based on data from the forums). Drive2 and Autolada) and tests of independent laboratories.

1. PPG (ChromaBase, Aquabase)

  • βœ… Best cover among metallic.
  • βœ… Wide catalogue of shades (more than 65,000 codes).
  • ❌ High price: Bank 1l worth 4 500 β‚½.

2. Sikkens (Autowave, Autocryl)

  • βœ… It is ideally placed on water-soluble soils.
  • βœ… Stable color even when hand-colored.
  • ❌ It requires strict adherence to drying technologies.

3. Dupont (Chromabase, VariPrime)

  • βœ… The optimal price/quality ratio for STO.
  • βœ… Good adhesion to old coatings.
  • ❌ There are few β€œexotic” colors (chameleons) in the line.

4. Mobihel (EcoBase, ProBase)

  • βœ… Budgetary option (from 2 200 β‚½ per litre.
  • βœ… It is suitable for beginners – it forgives small application errors.
  • ❌ Weak resistance to aggressive detergents.

5. Vika (Vica)

  • βœ… Russian manufacturer - fast delivery and coloring.
  • βœ… Good reviews for hard colors (e.g., Vika 1K White).
  • ❌ Metallics may differ from the original shades.
πŸ’‘

Before buying a base, check it out. test-plate! Apply 2 layers on the ground metal and compare with the original body color in daylight. This will save time on repainting.

Technology of application of the base: step-by-step instructions

Mistakes at this stage lead to stains, stripes or lacquer detachment. Follow the checklist:

β˜‘οΈ Preparation for base application

Done: 0 / 4

Step 1. Dilution of the base

The ratio of base and diluent is indicated on the bank. For metallics, usually 2:1 (2 parts of the base, 1 part of the diluent). Don't dilute the "by eye" This will lead to uneven spraying. Use measuring tanks.

Step 2. First layer application

Keep the spray gun at a distance. 20-25 cm from the surface. Movements should be smooth, with overlapping 50%. The first layer is applied "dry" (quickly, without heavy spraying) - its task is to fix the pigment.

Step 3. Interlayer drying

The drying time between the layers. 5-10 minutes upon 20Β°C. Don't dry with a hair dryer! This can "baking" the solvent inside the layer, which will lead to bubbles when varnished.

Step 4. Finish layer

The last layer is applied more "wet" (slower, with a large overlap). For metallics, it is important to keep the same distance of the sprayer, otherwise the effect of the "spark" will be uneven.

Step 5. Pre-varnishing control

Before applying the varnish, check the base on:

  • πŸ” Color levelness (no spots or stripes).
  • πŸ–οΈ Lack of dust (Wash the surface with a sticky napkin).
  • πŸ’§ Degree of drying (The base should not stick to the finger).
What happens if you apply varnish to an undrained base?

The lacquer will pull the solvent from the base, which will lead to clouding of the coating and the appearance of craters. You can only fix grinding to the ground and repainting.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced painters sometimes make mistakes. Here are the most common:

1. Wrong choice of diluent

Use of "fast" diluent in cold boxing (below 18Β°C) causes the base to fail to spread over the surface. The result is a shashashare (small bumps). DecisionUse a "slow" diluent at low temperatures.

2. Wet-covered layers

If you apply the second layer of the base before drying the first, the solvent will not have time to evaporate, and the coating will be soft. When you varnish it will lead to "boiling" (small bubbles) Decision: observe interlayer drying.

3. Incorrect pressure in the spray gun

Pressure too high (Pressure too high)over 2.5 atms) crushes the metal particles and the "spark" effect is lost. Too low (short)less than 1.2 atm) leads to undercurrents. DecisionAdjust the pressure on the pressure gauge and test on the test surface.

4. Ignoring the compatibility test

If you paint partly (e.g., one wing), always check the compatibility of the new base with the old varnish. Apply a little base on paint tape, glue to the car and leave for 24 hours. If the scotch hasn't ripped off the paint, you can paint it.

⚠️ Attention.: When painting metallic never shake. A can of base! This leads to an uneven distribution of aluminum powder. Stir only with a wooden stick in slow circular movements.

Coloring base: how to save on expensive paint

Original bases from PPG or Sikkens worth 5 000-8 000 β‚½ per liter. There are some ways to reduce costs without losing quality:

1. Use a base-to-analog.

Many Russian manufacturers (for example, the Vika or Kudo) offer analogues of the original flowers. For example, Vika 1K Black (code 9005) 95% coincides with Audi BrillantschwarzBut it costs 2 times cheaper.

2. Coloring formula

If you have color-code (e.g., B7/B7 for BMW Alpine White), many shops offer coloring base on site. It is cheaper than buying a ready-made can. The main thing is to require a test color on the plate.

3. Buy the base in the mixes.

Some suppliers (e.g., Autocolor) sell the base in small containers (0.5 l l or 0.25 l). This is beneficial for minor repairs (such as painting a mirror or bumper).

4. Use "universal" databases

For dark colors (black, dark blue) suitable universal bases with high cover. For example, PPG D8155 Black Base It covers most shades of black in 2 layers.

πŸ’‘

Savings on coloring are justified only if you paint piece (wing, hood) For local repair (scratches), it is better to use the original base - analogues may differ in shade.

Base vs. Acrylic enamel: what is best for your project

Many car owners are wondering: is it worth overpaying for the basic system or can you do with acrylic enamel? The answer depends on the task:

When to select a base:

  • πŸš— You paint. bodywork or most of the hood (fings + hood).
  • 🎨 You need it. metallic.
  • πŸ›‘οΈ It's important. long-cover (The service life of the base + lacquer is 7-10 years).

When to choose acrylic enamel:

  • πŸ’° Budget is limited (acrylic is cheaper by 30-40%).
  • πŸ”§ I need to paint. plot (e.g. threshold or arch).
  • 🎨 Colour hard (without effects), for example, white or red.

The main disadvantage of acrylic is that it repairable. When scratches to metal will have to paint the element completely, while the base with varnish can be polished.

Comparison of characteristics:

Parameter Basic paint + varnish Acrylic enamel
Cost (per 1 m2) from 1 200 β‚½ from 800 β‚½
Term of service 7-10 years 3-5 years
Difficulty applying High (requires experience) Low (suitable for beginners)
Possibility of polishing Yes. Limitedly.

FAQ: Answers to Frequent Questions

Can you build a base without soil?

Nope. The base paint does not have adhesion to bare metal or putty. Without soil, it will peel off in 1-2 months. The exception is local repair on the old lacquer (if the base is applied to the factory coating).

How many layers of base do you need to apply?

For solid flowers - 2-3 layers. For metallics and pearls - 3 layers (the first "dry", the second and third - "wet"). The fourth layer can lead to slacks.

How to keep an open bank with a database?

Close tightly with a lid, wrap with tape and store in a vertical position at temperature 15-25Β°C. Water-soluble bases can be stored for up to 6 months, on solvents - up to 1 year.

Why did the base get cloudy after the varnishing?

It's because of this. chemical incompatibility base and varnish or if the varnish is applied to an undried base. The solution is grinding to the ground and repainting.

Can I mix different brands?

Theoretically, they can, but only if they single-handed (e.g. both water-soluble). Practically - the risk of uneven color or detachment. It is better to use the products of one manufacturer.