When a driver first thinks about improving the sound in his car, he often encounters confusion in terms. In everyday life, everyone is used to using the word “columns”, but professionals and sellers of autosound stores operate with a completely different vocabulary. Understanding that, What are the speakers in the car called? In fact, it is the first step to a competent upgrade of the audio system without unnecessary costs.
Automotive acoustics is a complex engineering unit where each element has its own strictly defined name and function. Speaker, squeaker, midbass, tweeter, subwoofer - behind these words are devices that reproduce a specific frequency range. Mistaking the choice of components can lead to the fact that the system will not reach its potential or even fail.
In this article, we will discuss the full range of car sound. You will learn how component acoustics differ from coaxial acoustics, why bass is not a professional term, and how to correctly formulate a query in the store to get exactly what your car needs.
Basic terminology: speaker versus column
The most common mistake of beginners is the confusion between the dynamic head and the acoustic system. In everyday life, a “column” is called a box with speakers, but in a car this concept practically does not exist. What you see in a door or shelf is technically called a dynamics or loudspeaker. It is the dynamic head that converts the electrical signal into sound vibrations.
Acoustic system (AS) is a set of speakers, crossovers and body, working as a single unit. In the car, the role of the body is often played by the door itself or a specially prepared podium. So when you ask what speakers are called in a machine, it’s more accurate to talk about the types of speakers and how they’re installed.
It is important to distinguish between active and passive systems. Active acoustics It has a built-in amplifier and requires a separate power connection, while the passive one works directly from the head unit or external amplifier. Most of the systems in cars are passive.
⚠️ Attention: Never connect active speakers directly to the outputs of a regular radio without checking the specifications. This can lead to overloading of the output cascades of the head device and its combustion.
Understanding this difference helps to avoid ridiculous situations when buying. If you ask for “columns in the door,” the seller will understand you, but if you specify that you need “2-band 16cm component speakers,” the dialogue will become much more productive.
Classification by frequency range
The sound spectrum is huge, and a single speaker is physically unable to reproduce the entire range from low bass to high frequencies. Therefore, automotive acoustics are divided into specialized types. The main element that is most often replaced in tuning is midbass (midbass) or mid-frequency speaker. He is responsible for the main array of music: vocalist voice, guitar, drums.
High frequency is responsible for tweeter Tweeters, which are often called “squeakers”. They are small, light and set them higher – in the racks of the windshield or triangles at the mirrors, so that high frequencies are not absorbed by the upholstery of the cabin and immediately fall into the ears of the listener.
Low frequencies reproduce subwoofer. It’s a big speaker designed exclusively for deep bass. Unlike midbass, the subwoofer is often carried out in a separate case in the trunk, although there are also door options. Less often, they meet. midrench Midrange – mid-frequency speakers that are separated from midbass in quality systems for greater detail.
- 🎵 Tweeting They reproduce frequencies from 2000 Hz to 20,000 Hz, are responsible for detail and "air".
- 🎸 midbass - operate in the range of 200 Hz - 2000 Hz, the basis of musical drawing.
- 🔊 Subwoofers - Fall below 80-100 Hz, create a physical sensation of bass.
- 📢 midrenji - highly specialized speakers for vocals (used in advanced systems).
Frequency separation occurs not only physically (different speakers), but also electrically, using crossovers. These are devices that filter the signal, sending only high frequencies to the tweeter, and medium and low frequencies to the midbass.
Coaxial or Component: What is the Difference?
When choosing what to put in the door, you will come across two basic designs. Coaxial acoustics It's an all-in-one solution. On the basket of one speaker, both the midbass and the tweeter are fixed (often through a simple crossover filter). This is the easiest way to replace regular speakers, as they have standard seats.
Component acoustics It involves separation. Midbass is placed on the door, and tweeters are taken out separately (in racks or torpedoes). A full crossover is installed between them. This system allows you to build the right sound-stageWhen the sound comes from the front, not from the bottom of the legs.
Component acoustics require more work during installation: you need to drill holes for tweeters, hide crossovers, lay additional wiring. However, the result is worth it: the sound becomes volumetric, porridge disappears in medium frequencies, clarity appears.
⚠️ Attention: When installing component acoustics, be sure to use crossovers from the kit. Connecting the tweeter directly to the tape recorder without a filter will cause it to burn instantly from overloading at low frequencies.
Coaxials are often called "pancakes" because of their flat shape, although technically it is not exactly a correct term, coming from Soviet acoustics (6x9 inches). Today, "pancakes" are any oval acoustics installed in the back shelf.
Typical dimensions: inches and centimeters
In the automotive world, the speaker size standards came from the US, so the inches remain the basic unit of measurement. However, the characteristics are often indicated by millimeters. The most popular size for front doors is 16 cm (or 160 mm), which corresponds to 6.5 inches.
The rear shelf of hatchbacks and sedans often has regular seats for ovals. The most common size is 6x9 inches (15x23 cm). Such speakers have an elongated shape, which allows you to increase the area of the diffuser and, accordingly, the recoil on the bass in conditions of limited depth.
Small speakers measuring 10 cm (4 inches) are usually placed in front racks or small doors. For subwoofers, the standard is 10, 12 and less often 15 inches. The larger the diameter, the lower and more powerful the bass he can play.
| Name of size | Diameter (inches) | Diameter (cm/mm) | Typical installation site |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small speaker | 4" | 10 cm (100 mm) | Stands, small doors. |
| Medium (Standard) | 6.5" | 16 cm (160 mm) | Front doors |
| Oval (Pretty) | 6x9" | 15x23 cm | Back shelf. |
| Subwoofer (Compact) | 10" | 25 cm (250 mm) | Baggage, case. |
| Subwoofer (Standard) | 12" | 30 cm (300 mm) | Baggage, case. |
When buying, always check the depth of the speaker landing. The regular space in the door can have a limit, for example, 50 mm, and a powerful speaker can have a depth of 70 mm. In this case, you will need to make a podium or rework the door.
What is a podium and why do you need it?
The catwalk is a special platform for installing the speaker. It is needed if the regular seat is smaller than the diameter of the speaker, or if you need to direct the axis of sound (for example, a tweeter) towards the listener. The podium also helps to isolate the speaker from the vibrations of the door.
Technical characteristics: what to look at
When choosing acoustics, beginners often chase the maximum power indicated on the box. It's a mistake. Numbers like 1000 watts (PMPO) are marketing. The real picture gives rated capacity (RMS). It is on this figure that you need to focus when selecting an amplifier.
The second important parameter is sensitivity (Sensitivity). It is measured in dB (dB) and shows how loud the speaker will play when applying 1W of power to it. A speaker with a sensitivity of 92 dB will play significantly louder and lighter than an 86 dB counterpart, at the same power of the tape recorder.
The third parameter is impedance (Resistance) The standard for autosound is 4 ohms. There are also 2 ohms and 8 ohms. When connecting speakers with less resistance (2 ohms) to an amplifier that does not support such a mode, the latter can overheat and go into defense.
- 🔋 MOSFET - the technology of the output cascade of the magnetol, providing a cleaner sound and less power consumption.
- 🌡️ Heat-resistant glue - used in high-quality coils of speakers for heat removal.
- 💧 Waterproofing It is important for speakers in doors that can get wet from condensation or rain.
Do not forget about the material of the diffuser. Paper makes a warm sound, but is afraid of moisture. Polypropylene and composite materials are more durable and resistant to temperature changes, which is critical for the car.
☑️ Pre-purchase check
Features of installation and connection
Installing sound in a car is not just about “pinning and forgetting.” The car is an aggressive environment: vibrations, temperature changes, humidity. Therefore, a quality installation requires the use of acoustic cable It's made with copper veins, not aluminum, which comes with cheap speakers.
It is critical to ensure tightness. The door should function as a closed volume (acoustic screen). To do this, technological holes in the door are sealed with vibration insulation or special expanses are built. Without this, the bass will “evaporate” into the space under the skin, and instead of music you will get a buzz.
When laying wires, it is necessary to avoid places where they can rub against the metal of the body. All connections should be securely insulated, it is best to use shrinkage and soldering, rather than just twists that oxidize over time.
⚠️ Attention: When drilling holes in the racks or doors for tweeters, be sure to check that the back of the panel does not pass the harnesses of wiring or security elements (pillows). Use a flexible probe or wire to check.
Use special acoustic terminals. Directly twisting the speaker wires with the car wiring is bad practice. The terminals allow you to quickly remove speakers to replace or sell the machine without damaging the regular wiring.
Phasing is another point. If you confuse plus and minus on one of the speakers, they will work in antiphase. The bass disappears completely, and the sound becomes flat and unpleasant. You can check the phase with the help of a battery (the diffuser must be pushed forward when connecting the plus to the plus of the battery).
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Can you connect powerful speakers directly to the tape without an amplifier?
It is possible, but only if the power of the speakers (RMS) is close to the power of the tape recorder (usually 15-25 W per channel). If you put speakers on 100W, they will play quietly and without bass. If you set the 30-watt speakers at full volume, the tape can “snort” or burn.
What is the difference between 2 ohms and 4 ohms speakers?
2 ohm speakers when connected to an amplifier that supports such a mode will give almost twice as much power as 4 ohm speakers. However, standard tape recorders and most entry-level amplifiers are designed for 4 ohms. Connecting a 2-ohm load can cause overheating.
Do we need to “heat up” new dynamics?
There is a concept of “break-in.” The mobile system of the new dynamic is rigid. For the first 10-15 hours, it is not recommended to turn on music at full volume and give a deep bass. This will help to soften the suspension and avoid wheezing in the future.
Which is better: 2-band or 3-band acoustics?
For beginners and even mid-level users, a 2-band system (midbass + tweeter) is preferable. It is easier to set up and agree. The 3-band system (midbass + midrange + tweeter) gives more detailed sound, but requires complex crossover customization and more space to install, which in the car is often a problem.
The main takeaway: Don't chase brands and maximum power. Properly selected and well-established acoustics of the average level will sound better than expensive speakers thrown into the door without vibration isolation.