Wrench for replacing steering rod: which one to choose, sizes and how to use

Why do you need a special key for the steering rod and is it possible to do without it?

The steering linkage is a critical element of the suspension, on which not only the handling of the vehicle depends, but also your safety. If it is worn out or damaged (for example, after hitting a curb), urgent replacement is required. However, many car owners are faced with a problem: standard open-end wrenches are not suitable for unscrewing locknuts or ball pin due to limited access or non-standard mounting profile. This is where it comes to the rescue special wrench for tie rod - a tool that simplifies dismantling and prevents damage to the thread.

Is it possible to do without it? Theoretically yes, but in practice it is fraught breakage of the edges on the nut, damage to the boot, or even breakage of the rod. For example, when trying to unscrew a stuck locknut with a regular wrench, there is a high risk of “licking” its edges, which will require further cutting with a grinder or drilling. The special key ensures a reliable grip and uniform distribution of force, which is especially important for cars with high mileage (150,000+ km), where the fasteners often stick.

In this article we will look at:

• 🔧 Types of keys for steering rods (snap-on, open-end, special tools) and their differences.
• 📏 Size chart for popular brands (VAZ, Toyota, VW, Renault).
• 🔨 Step by step instructions on replacing the rod with photos and tips on dismantling “stuck” nuts.
• ⚠️ Common mistakes, which lead to breakage of the rod or steering rack.

Types of keys for tie rods: which one is suitable for your car?

There is no universal key for all models - the choice depends on the design of the rod mount. Let's look at the main types of tools, their pros and cons.

1. Spanner with extended head

The most common option for most foreign cars (Toyota Corolla, Honda Civic, Hyundai Solaris). Its advantage is private profile, which prevents edges from breaking off. Usually has dimensions 17×19 mm, 22×24 mm or 27×30 mm (for heavy SUVs). Suitable for unscrewing locknut on traction, but cannot always cope with the ball pin.

2. Open-end wrench with curved handle

Used for working in cramped conditions where a spanner does not fit (for example, on VAZ 2110 or Renault Logan). Minus - open profile, because of which, with strong force, you can “lick” the edges of the nut. Most common sizes 13×14 mm and 15×17 mm.

3. Special wrench for ball pins

This profile tool with a hexagonal or twelve-sided hole that fits onto the craving itself (not on the nut). Used on cars with non-standard fastenings, for example:

• 🚗 BMW E39/E46 (size 32 mm hexagon).
• 🚗 Mercedes W203/W211 (key with internal toothed profile).
• 🚗 Ford Focus 2/3 (requires external key) 27 mm).

Such a tool is more expensive (from 800 to 2500 rubles), but without it it is almost impossible to replace traction on premium cars.

Key size chart for popular cars

To avoid guessing which key to buy, use our table. Dimensions shown are for rod locknuts and ball pin (if applicable). The data is relevant for most modifications, but please check VIN or your car's manual!

Make/Model	Year of manufacture	Locknut wrench size	Ball pin size	Key type
VAZ 2108-2115	1984–2013	22 mm	13 mm (horn)	Cap/horn
Toyota Corolla (E12/E15)	2002–2013	17×19 mm	14 mm (special key)	Snap-on + special tool
Renault Logan/Sandero	2004–2020	16 mm	15 mm (curved horn)	Rozhkovy
VW Golf 4/5, Passat B5	1997–2009	22×24 mm	Hexagon 27 mm	Socket wrench + special wrench
Hyundai Solaris/Kia Rio	2010–2023	19 mm	14 mm (single-on)	Cap

⚠️ Attention: On some cars (for example, BMW 5-series E60 or Audi A4 B7) tie rod fastening may require two keys at the same time - one holds the rod from turning, the second unscrews the nut. In such cases it will be necessary set with lock (for example, Hazet 4752-1).

Step-by-step instructions: how to replace a tie rod using a wrench

Before starting work, make sure you have:

• 🔧 Key for lock nut (see table above).
• 🔧 Ball joint remover (if the rod is attached through a finger).
• 🔧 Torque wrench (for tightening with the correct torque).
• 🔧 Penetrating lubricant (WD-40, Liqui Moly MoS2).

Loosen the lock nut (before lifting the car) | Jack up the car and remove the wheel | Clean the threads from dirt with a wire brush | Treat the fasteners with penetrating lubricant (10–15 minutes before work)-->

Step 1: Loosen the locknut

Do not remove the wheel right away! Loosen the locknut on traction while the car is on the ground - this will prevent the steering rack from turning. Use spanner wrench (or carob, if there is no other) and apply force counterclockwise. If the nut does not budge:

• 🔨 Heat it with a construction hairdryer (up to 100–150°C).
• 🔨 Tap the key with a hammer (not the nut!).
• 🔨 Use lever extension (pipe to key).

Step 2. Dismantling the rod

After removing the wheel:

1. Unscrew the nut securing the ball stud to the steering knuckle (usually 13–19 mm).
2. Use pullerto press the finger out of the cone. Don't hit the rod with a hammer! - this deforms the thread.
3. Unscrew the locknut completely and remove the rod from the rack.

Step 3. Installing a new rod

When installing a new part:

• 🔧Tighten the locknut torque wrench (the moment for most cars is 40–60 Nm).
• 🔧 Check it out backlash in the thrust joint - it should be absent.
• 🔧 After replacing, be sure to do wheel alignment!

Typical mistakes when replacing a tie rod and how to avoid them

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that shorten the life of a new linkage or damage the steering rack. Here are the most common of them:

1. Ignoring the ball joint boot

If the boot is torn or cracked, dirt will get into the joint and the rod will fail through 5–10 thousand km. Always check its integrity and replace if necessary. The cost of a new boot is from 100 rubles, and repair of the rack will cost 15–30 thousand rubles..

2. Overtightening or undertightening the locknut

Poor tightening leads to steering play, and excessive - to thread deformation or even traction failure. Always use a torque wrench! Torque standards:

• 🚗 Passenger cars: 40–50 Nm.
• 🚙 Crossovers/SUV: 60–80 Nm.
• 🚛 Commercial vehicles: 90–120 Nm.

3. Damage to the thread when unscrewing

If the nut is stuck, do not try to unscrew it by force - this will lead to stripping the thread on the rod or rack. Better use:

• 🔧 Penetrating lubricant (for example, PB Blaster).
• 🔧 Heating with a gas burner (be careful not to overheat the boot!).
• 🔧 Impact wrench (if you have access).

⚠️ Attention: Never use grinder to cut the nut on the rod, metal shavings will get into the rail and damage it! As a last resort, carefully cut off 1-2 edges and use adjustable wrench.

Which key to buy: review of the best brands and prices

A high-quality key will last for decades, while a cheap fake will break at the first serious effort. We tested tools from different brands and compiled a rating based on price/quality ratio.

Budget segment (up to 500 rub.)

Suitable for one-time jobs:

• 🔧 Jonnesway (Taiwan) - chrome plated spanners, dimensions 17–24 mm. Price: 300–450 rub.
• 🔧 Stayer (Russia) - open-end wrenches with a curved handle. Price: 250–350 rub.

Disadvantage: the metal is soft and can “slip” when working with stuck nuts.

Middle segment (RUB 500–1,500)

The best choice for the garage:

• 🔧 Hazet (Germany) - special keys for BMW/Mercedes with internal profile. Price: 1200–1500 rub.
• 🔧 King Tony (Taiwan) - a set of spanners with an extended head. Price: 800–1000 rub.

Plus: hardened steel, precise dimensions, suitable for professional use.

Premium (from RUB 1,500)

For car services or owners of premium cars:

• 🔧 Snap-on (USA) - coated keys Nickel-Chrome, corrosion resistant. Price: 1800–2500 rub.
• 🔧 Wera (Germany) - ergonomic keys with Kraftform-handle. Price: 1500–2000 rub.

⚠️ Attention: When buying a key on the market or in an uncertified store, check it size marking and metal thickness (must be at least 3–4 mm). Counterfeits often have burrs on the edges that damage the nuts.

Frequently asked questions about replacing tie rods

🔧 Is it possible to drive with a faulty steering linkage?

No! Worn traction leads to steering play, uneven tire wear and loss of vehicle control at high speed. If play or knocking noise is detected when turning the steering wheel replace the rod immediately.

🔧 How to understand that the traction requires replacement?

Signs of malfunction:

• 🔊 Knock when driving over bumps (especially when turning the steering wheel).
• 🔄 Steering wheel play (more than 10°).
• 🚗 Uneven tire wear (on one side).
• 💨 Damaged ball joint boot.

🔧 Is it necessary to do a wheel alignment after replacing the traction?

Yes, necessarily! Even if you installed the linkage in the same position as the old one, the wheel alignment angles will change. Adjustment cost: 1000–2000 rub. (depends on the region).

🔧 Is it possible to restore a broken nut on a rod?

If the edges are slightly “licked”, you can:

1. Use a file to make new edges for a smaller key size.
2. Use adjustable wrench or pipe wrench.
3. As a last resort, cut a new thread and install a repair nut.

If the nut is completely destroyed, you will have to cut off the rod with a grinder and install a new one.

🔧 What lubricant should I use to treat the thread when installing a new rod?

Use copper or graphite lubricant (for example, Molykote Copper Paste or LIQUI MOLY Kupfer-Paste). It will prevent sticking and corrosion. Do not use Litol or grease - they cannot withstand high loads.