Auto repair pliers: a complete guide to types, applications and selection

Pliers are one of the most versatile tools in a car enthusiast's arsenal, but not everyone knows that their variety goes far beyond the usual pliers. In auto repair, this tool solves problems from removing circlips to crimping electrical terminals, and the wrong choice can lead to damaged parts or injury. For example, an attempt to cut the handbrake cable with ordinary wire cutters often ends in crumpled wires and the need to buy a new set.

In this article we will look at 12 specialized types of pliers for cars, their exact purpose and selection criteria - from the materials of the handles to the shape of the jaws. You will find out which models are required for suspension diagnostics and which ones will help you during electrical repairs, and you will also receive a checklist for caring for the tool so that it lasts for decades. We will pay special attention professional life hacksthat save time: for example, how to use circlip pliers without the risk of scratching the gearbox shaft or how to properly crimp the terminals to avoid oxidation.

1. Basic types of ticks: what every car owner should have

Let's start with the minimum set, which you can't do without even when replacing a light bulb or a wheel. These pliers solve 80% of everyday tasks in the garage and should definitely be in the glove compartment or trunk.

• 🔧 Universal pliers - for gripping, bending and holding small parts (for example, spring washers or nuts in hard-to-reach places). The optimal length is 160–180 mm.
• ⚡ Side cutters (diagonal) - for cutting wires, clamps or plastic ties. Look for models with induction hardening cutting edges.
• 🔗 Round nose pliers — indispensable for forming loops on cables (for example, when repairing a hand brake) or bending petals on cotter pins.

Important: cheap pliers made of “mild” steel often do not hold an edge and bend parts instead of cutting them. When purchasing, check the labeling - a quality tool will indicate strength standards (for example, DIN 5249 for pliers or ISO 5745 for wire cutters).

⚠️ Attention: Never use pliers instead of a wrench to unscrew nuts - this leads to “licking” of the edges and damage to the fasteners. For round nuts (e.g. on brake hoses), use special pliers with adjustable gap.

Type of ticks	Main application in cars	Critical parameter when choosing
Pliers	Grabbing washers, bending tabs, holding nuts	Sponge hardness (minimum 50 HRC)
Side cutters	Cutting cables, clamps, wires	Cutting edge shape (must be pointed)
Round nose pliers	Forming loops on cables, working with cotter pins	Diameter of the working area (select according to the thickness of the cable)

2. Specialized pliers for auto repair: when universal ones are not suitable

For work on the suspension, braking system or electrical system, ordinary pliers are not enough. This requires tools with precise geometry and reinforced mechanisms. Let's look at the key types:

• 🛠️ Circlip pliers - internal and external. For example, for removing rings on axle shafts or ball joints. Models with spring mechanism (for example, Knipex 46 11 A180) reduce the load on the hand.
• 🔩 Spring stop pliers — for dismantling retaining rings on shock absorbers or steering rods. Look for options with swivel jaws (angle 90°).
• ⚡ Crimpers (crimping pliers) — for crimping terminals and wire lugs. Professional models (eg. Weidmüller Z 100) have replaceable matrices for different sections.
• 🚗 Brake hose pliers — for pinching flexible hoses when bleeding the brakes. Must have soft padsso as not to damage the braid.

An example from practice: when replacing the silent blocks of a lever without specialized pliers for locking rings, you risk damaging the threads on the pin or deforming the seat. Incorrect crimping of the battery terminals leads to their heating and oxidation of the contacts.

3. Electrical pliers: working with wires and terminals

The vehicle's electrical system requires special care. Here, ordinary wire cutters are not suitable - you need tools that will not damage the insulation and ensure reliable contact. Let's look at the key types:

• 🔌 Stripping pliers — automatically adjust the cutting depth (for example, Jokari Super 4 Plus). Suitable for wires with a cross section of 0.5–6 mm².
• 🔗 Terminal crimpers - crimps male-female, ring and fork lugs. Important: for automotive electrics, choose models with a crimping force of at least 20 kN.
• ⚡ Battery terminal pliers - with wide jaws for gripping massive tips. For example, Hazet 187N-24 has insulated handles up to 1000 V.

Practical tip: When crimping terminals, use hydraulic crimpers (for example, Knipex PX 70) - they provide uniform force over the entire contact area, which is critical for high-current circuits (starter, generator).

⚠️ Attention: Never use pliers to crimp terminals - this leads to “cold welding” and an increase in transient resistance. Consequences: voltage drop, overheating of the wire and risk of fire.

Check the absence of voltage on the wire (with a multimeter)

Select the terminal according to the wire cross-section (do not allow “play”)

Use heat shrink tubing to insulate the connection

Crimp the terminal at two points (for reliability)

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4. Suspension and brake pliers: heavy-duty work

Suspension and brake parts are subject to enormous mechanical stress, so pliers with a reinforced design are required. An incorrect tool selection can result in injury or damage to critical components.

• 🔧 Suspension spring pliers — for compressing shock absorber springs when replacing struts. Must have safety latches (for example, Sealey VS03).
• 🚘 Brake pad pliers - for recessing the pistons in the calipers. Models with swivel head (for example, Laser 3470) simplify work in cramped conditions.
• 🔗 Clamp pliers — for mounting clamps on CV joint boots or steering rods. Look for options with adjustable force (for example, Bahco 345).

Example: when replacing brake pads with Volkswagen Passat B6 Without specialized pliers to press the piston, you risk damaging the rubber caliper seals, which will lead to brake fluid leakage. And improper compression of the suspension springs can cause them to “shoot” with a force of up to 500 kg - this is deadly!

Problem	Recommended pliers	Consequences of the wrong tool
Shock absorber spring compression	Sealey VS03, Hazet 9022-1	Spring rupture, injury
Recessing the caliper piston	Laser 3470, KUKKO 21-1	Damaged cuffs, brake fluid leak
Installation of clamps on anthers	Bahco 345, Knipex 13 86 200	Clamp slipping, dirt getting into the CV joint

5. How to choose pliers: 7 criteria worth paying attention to

When purchasing pliers for auto repair, it is easy to get lost in the variety of brands and characteristics. We have identified key parameters that directly affect the durability and safety of the tool:

1. Sponge material: optimal - chrome vanadium steel (labeling Cr-V) with a hardness of 58–62 HRC. Cheap carbon steel pliers get dull quickly.
2. Handle type: for work under the hood, choose two-component handles (for example, Knipex TwinGrip) - they do not slip even in oil.
3. Power transmission mechanism: preferred for crimping pliers lever-hinged models (for example, Weidmüller), rather than simple hinges.
4. Tool length: For work in hard-to-reach places (for example, under the dashboard), choose short pliers (120–150 mm).
5. Presence of a spring mechanism: reduces hand fatigue during long-term work (relevant for lock ring pliers).
6. Protective coating: sponges must have anti-corrosion coating (for example, titanium nitride), especially if the instrument is stored in a garage with high humidity.
7. Certification: pay attention to the markings DIN, ISO or ANSI is a guarantee of compliance with strength standards.

Example: pliers Hazet 187N-24 for battery terminals have insulated handles up to 1000 V and jaws with special profilewhich prevents slipping. A model Knipex 46 11 A180 for retaining rings equipped spring mechanism and swivel jaws, which speeds up work by 2 times.

How to check the quality of ticks in a store?

1. Take the tool by the ends of the handles and try to bend it slightly - high-quality pliers should not bend.

2. Check the gap between the jaws when closed - it should not exceed 0.1 mm.

3. Inspect the cutting edges (of the wire cutters) under magnification - they should be smooth, without burrs.

4. Try cutting through a piece of copper wire with a diameter of 2 mm - good nippers will do this the first time without deformation.

6. Care and storage: how to extend the life of the instrument

Even the most expensive pliers will lose their properties if they are not properly cared for. The main enemies of the tool are corrosion, contamination and mechanical damage. Follow these rules:

• 🧹 Cleaning after work: remove dirt and metal shavings soft brush (do not use abrasives!). For stubborn stains, use kerosene or WD-40.
• 🛢️ Lubrication: After cleaning, apply to the hinge thin layer of grease (for example, Liqui Moly LM 50). Avoid getting grease on work surfaces!
• 🏠 Storage: Store pliers in dry place, hanging them on hooks or in special cases. Avoid piling tools together as this will cause the jaws to become dull.
• 🔧 Check before use: Before use, inspect the tool for cracks, especially in the hinge area. Damaged pliers may break under load!

Warning: If the pliers have been subjected to impact loads (for example, used as a hammer), they must be checked for ultrasonic flaw detector - even invisible microcracks can lead to destruction during the next use.

7. Top 5 mistakes when working with ticks (and how to avoid them)

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that lead to tool failure or damage to car parts. We have collected the most common mistakes and ways to prevent them:

1. Use of pliers for other purposes. For example, trying to cut a bolt with wire cutters. Solution: use bolt cutters (for example, Knipex 95 03 250) for fastening.
2. Applying excessive force. This leads to deformation of the jaws or breakage of the hinge. Solution: if the pliers do not “take” the part, use a tool with a high gear ratio (for example, hydraulic pliers).
3. Working with rusty or dirty parts. Sand and rust act as an abrasive, quickly wearing out the sponges. Solution: clean the part wire brush before work.
4. Storage in a humid environment. This leads to corrosion of the hinge and jamming of the tool. Solution: use silica gel bags in the tool box.
5. Ignoring defense mechanisms. For example, working with pliers for springs without clamps. Solution: Always check that the interlocks are intact before use.

Practical example: when replacing silent blocks with Toyota Corolla E12 The technician used universal pliers instead of specialized circlip pliers. As a result, the ring was deformed and the lever pin was scratched. I had to buy a new lever (cost ~3500 rubles), whereas the correct tool would have cost 1200 rubles.

⚠️ Attention: When working with brake hose pliers, never pinch the hose by more than 50% of the diameter - this can damage the inner braid and lead to rupture under pressure!

FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions about ticks for cars

Can household pliers be used for auto repair?

Technically possible, but only for auxiliary operations (for example, holding nuts). For critical tasks (circlips, crimping terminals), household tools are not suitable due to the low strength of the materials and the imprecise geometry of the jaws. For example, household wire cutters will not cut through the handbrake cable - they will simply bend it.

Which brand of pliers is best for the garage?

Optimal for occasional use Knipex (Germany) or Hazet (Germany) - they offer the best price/quality ratio. Suitable for professionals Wera (Germany) or Snap-on (USA). Budget option - Jonnesway (Taiwan), but check the certificates (must be DIN or ANSI).

What is the difference between internal and external circlip pliers?

Pliers for internal have rings expanding lips, which are bred inside the ring. For external sponge rings shrink from the outside. Using the wrong type will result in ring deformation or shaft damage. For example, for rings on axle shafts VAZ 2110 need pliers with jaw angle 45°.

How to crimp a terminal without a crimper?

As a last resort, you can use pliers, but: 1) crimp on both sides; 2) control the force (do not over-press!); 3) after crimping, check the contact with a multimeter (resistance should be < 0.1 Ohm). However, for critical circuits (starter, generator) this is unacceptable - only a crimper!

Is it possible to restore dull pliers?

Yes, but only if they are wire cutters or cutting pliers. Use diamond stone (400–600 grit) for sharpening at an angle of 60–70°. After sharpening, remove burrs needle file and check the cutting ability on copper wire. Pliers with deformed jaws (for example, pliers) cannot be restored.