What wire is needed to connect the hob: cross-section, brand and diagram

Connecting a hob is a task that requires not only electrical knowledge, but also the right choice power cable. Errors at this stage can lead to overheating of the wiring, short circuit or even fire. The problem is especially pressing for owners induction panels Bosch, Electrolux or Samsung, where the power reaches 7–10 kW - a standard household outlet cannot handle such loads.

Many car owners who have equipped vans or garages with kitchen areas are faced with the need to connect the hob to autonomous electrical network 12/24V or generator. Here the requirements for wires are even stricter: you need to take into account not only the cross-section, but also cable flexibility, resistance to vibrations and temperature changes. In this article we will look at how to choose optimal wire for any hob - from compact Domino to professional Miele — taking into account power, network type and operating conditions.

Before purchasing a cable, check three key parameters of your panel:

• 🔌 Power (indicated in the passport or on the nameplate; example: Hansa BHI68303 - 7.2 kW).
• 🔋 Network type: single phase (220V), three phase (380V) or direct current (for RVs).
• 📏 Route length from the shield to the panel (important for calculating voltage losses).

1. The power of the hob and its influence on the choice of wire

The main criterion when choosing a cable is maximum panel power. Manufacturers indicate it in kW (kilowatts) or W (watts). For example, induction hob Siemens ET875LVC1E consumes up to 7.4 kW, and compact Gorenje IT635ORA - total 3.5 kW. Depends on it cable cross-section:

• ⚡ Until 3.5 kW - enough wire with cross-section 2.5 mm² (copper).
• ⚡ From 3.5 to 5.5 kW - required 4 mm².
• ⚡ From 5.5 to 7.5 kW - minimum 6 mm².
• ⚡ Over 7.5 kW — 10 mm² or three-phase connection.

For RVs with voltage 12/24V the calculation is different: not only power is important here, but also cable length. For example, the panel on 1.5 kW under tension 12V will require wire cross-section 25–35 mm² (due to high currents!). Use flexible frost-resistant cables type KG or PVS with multi-wire conductors.

⚠️ Attention: If the hob is connected to generator (for example, in a garage or in a country house), consider starting currents — they can exceed the nominal ones by 2–3 times. For a 3 kW panel, take a cable with a reserve: no 2.5 mm², and 4 mm².

2. Types of cables for the hob: which one is better?

Not all wires are equally suitable for connecting hobs. Basic requirements for the cable:

• 🔥 Heat resistance: The panel gets hot, so the insulation must withstand up to 90–120°C (labeling ng-LS - non-flammable, low smoke formation).
• 🔄 Flexibility: for connection to the panel terminal block, stranded conductors are more convenient (flexibility class 5 according to GOST).
• 🛡️ Protection against mechanical damage: double insulation (eg VVGng-LS or NYM).

Recommended cable brands:

Cable brand	Application	Pros	Cons
VVGng-LS 3×6	Single-phase connection (220V)	Non-flammable, low smoke generation, affordable price	Rigid conductors (inconvenient to connect to the panel)
PVS 3×6	Flexible connection, caravans	Stranded cores, vibration resistant	Requires termination with ferrules
NYM 5×4	Three-phase connection (380V)	Triple insulation, easy to install	More expensive than analogues, afraid of UV rays
KG 3×10	Mobile solutions (generators, vans)	Highly flexible, frost-resistant (-40°C)	Heavy, dear

For three-phase panels (380V) use 5-core cable (3 phases + neutral + earth). For example, VVGng-LS 5×4 suitable for panels with power up to 10 kW. In RVs with voltage 12/24V often used KG or PVS with a cross section from 16 mm² — they withstand high currents and frequent bending.

3. Wire cross-section: how to calculate it yourself?

If the panel passport does not indicate the recommended cable, the cross-section can be calculated using the formula:

S = (P × K) / (U × cosφ)

Where:

• S - core cross-section, mm²;
• P - panel power, W;
• K — safety factor (1.2 for household networks, 1.5 for vans);
• U - tension, B (220V or 380V);
• cosφ — power factor (0.95 for induction panels, 1 for heating elements).

Panel example Electrolux EHF96547FK (power 7.4 kW = 7400 W, 220V):

S = (7400 × 1.2) / (220 × 0.95) ≈ 38.5 A → cable required 6 mm² (according to the PUE table).

For three-phase network (380V) the current is distributed over three phases, so the cross-section can be reduced. For example, the same panel on 7.4 kW will require a cable 5×2.5 mm² (~11 A will pass through the phase).

⚠️ Attention: In RVs with voltage 12V current for panel 1.5 kW will be 125 A! Here you need a cable with a cross-section of at least 25 mm² (for example, KG 1×25) and fuse protection on 150 A.

Check the power of the panel in the passport|Determine the type of network (220V or 380V)|Measure the length of the route from the panel to the panel|Select a cable with a margin of 20–30% in cross-section|Check the certificate of conformity (marking GOST or TU)

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4. Single-phase vs three-phase connection: which cable is needed?

Most household cooktops are designed to single-phase network 220V, but models with power over 7 kW (for example, Miele KM6377) are often required three-phase connection 380V. Let's figure out which cable is needed in each case.

Single-phase network (220V)

Used 3-wire cable:

• 🔴 Phase (L) — brown/red wire;
• 🔵 Zero (N) - blue wire;
• 🟢 Earth (PE) - yellow-green wire.

Example: for panel 5.8 kW will do VVGng-LS 3×6.

Three-phase network (380V)

Used 5-core cable:

• 🔴🟡🔵 Three phases (L1, L2, L3) — brown, black, gray;
• 🔵 Zero (N) - blue;
• 🟢 Earth (PE) - yellow-green.

Example: for panel 9 kW — VVGng-LS 5×4.

RVs do not use three-phase power, but if the panel is connected to inverter 220V (converts 12/24V to 220V), then you need 3-wire cable taking into account power losses for conversion (inverter efficiency ~85–90%). For example, for the panel 2 kW the inverter must be on 2.5 kW, and the cable has a cross-section 10 mm² (due to high input currents).

5. Connecting the hob: step-by-step instructions

Before starting work turn off the power on the shield and check the absence of voltage with an indicator screwdriver. To connect you will need:

• 🔧 Cable of the selected section;
• 🔌 Plug/socket on 32–40 A (for 220V) or terminal block (for 380V);
• 🛠️ Tips for crimping cores (if the cable is flexible);
• 🔨 Din rail and automatic (for the shield).

Connection steps:

1. Remove the back cover of the panel (usually secured with screws).
2. Connect the cable to the terminal block of the panel according to the diagram (it is in the passport). For a single-phase network, use jumpers between phase terminals (usually included in the kit).
3. Secure the cable with a tie to avoid tension.
4. Connect the other end of the cable to a socket or circuit breaker in the panel.
5. Install differential machine (for example, ABB DS201 C32) or a bunch automatic + RCD.

For RVs the scheme is different:

• Connect the panel to inverter through the fuse.
• Place the negative wire on mass van (check the reliability of the contact!).
• Use WAGO terminals for quick installation.

⚠️ Attention: In caravans it's impossible connect the hob directly to the battery without an inverter! Voltage 12V not enough for the operation of heating elements or induction. Also avoid cheap inverters with modified sinusoid - they can damage the panel.

What happens if you confuse phase and zero?

If the connection is incorrect (phase to zero and vice versa), the panel may work, but:

- Indication and sensors will fail;

- Possible false triggering of RCD;

- With a three-phase connection, an uneven load will lead to overheating of one of the phases.

6. Frequent mistakes when choosing and connecting a cable

Even experienced electricians sometimes make mistakes. Here are the most common:

• ❌ Insufficient cross-section: cable 2.5 mm² for panel 7 kW will lead to overheating and fire.
• ❌ Aluminum cable: according to the PUE for household appliances, only copper wire
• ❌ Lack of RCD: The hob is a device with a high risk of current leakage (especially in humid conditions).
• ❌ Soldering lived: At the connection points, the contact will deteriorate over time. Use crimp sleeves or WAGO terminals.
• ❌ Ignoring cable length: with a route length >15 m, the cross-section needs to be increased by 20–30% (due to voltage losses).

In RVs, specific errors are added:

• ❌ Connecting the panel to cigarette lighter (maximum 10 A - only enough for a teapot).
• ❌Usage household extension cords - they are not designed for high currents.
• ❌ Absence ventilation under the panel - in a confined space overheating is inevitable.

7. Which machine should I install for the hob?

A circuit breaker protects the cable from overload. Its value depends on wire cross-section and panel power:

Panel power	Cable cross-section	Machine rating (A)	Machine type
Up to 3.5 kW	2.5 mm²	16	C
3.5–5.5 kW	4 mm²	25	C
5.5–7.5 kW	6 mm²	32	C
7.5–10 kW (380V)	5×4 mm²	25 (per phase)	C or D

For RVs with inverter:

• The machine is installed from 12/24V side (for example, 100 A for panel 1.5 kW).
• From the outside 220V (after the inverter) - automatic on 16–25 A (depending on the power of the panel).

Recommended brands of machines: ABB, Schneider Electric, Legrand. For RCD, select leakage current 30 mA (safe for humans).

8. Where to buy cable and accessories?

It is better to purchase a cable for the hob in trusted electrical goods stores. Avoid markets and dubious online sites - there is a high risk of running into scams. counterfeit with a reduced cross-section of cores. Recommended suppliers:

• 🏬 Offline: Elektrosila, 220 Volt, Leroy Merlin (check the certificates!).
• 🌍 Online: AllElectro, ETM, Kabel-Energo (pay attention to reviews).
• 🚗 For RVs: AutoElectrika, 4x4 Shop (they specialize in frost-resistant cables).

Average cable prices (2026):

• VVGng-LS 3×6 - from 300 rub/m;
• PVS 3×6 - from 250 rub/m;
• KG 3×10 - from 500 rub/m;
• NYM 5×4 - from 400 rub/m.

When purchasing, check:

• 📜 Availability certificate of conformity (GOST or TU);
• 📏 Actual cross section (measure with a caliper or by weight);
• 🔍 Marking: must be applied to the insulation (example: VVGng-LS 3×6 GOST 31996-2012).

FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions

Can the hob be connected through a regular outlet?

No, if the panel power exceeds 3.5 kW. Standard socket on 16 A designed for maximum 3.5 kW (220V × 16A). More powerful panels are needed special socket for 32–40 A (for example, Legrand 416071) or direct connection to the panel.

What cable is needed for an induction panel? Bosch PIE631FB1E (7.2 kW)?

This model requires:

• Single-phase network (220V): VVGng-LS 3×6 + automatic 32 A;
• Three-phase network (380V): VVGng-LS 5×4 + automatic 25 A per phase.

In both cases it is necessary RCD 30 mA.

Can I use aluminum cable for the hob?

No. By PUE (clause 7.1.34) In residential premises it is only permitted to use copper wires. Aluminum is brittle, oxidizes and cannot withstand high currents.

How to connect the panel to the generator in the garage?

Procedure:

1. Select a generator with power reserve (for example, for a panel 3 kW need a generator for 4 kW).
2. Use cable KG 3×4 (length up to 10 m) or PVS 3×6 (length up to 20 m).
3. Connect the panel via differential machine (for example, IEK AD-32 30mA).
4. Ground the generator (for example with pin 1.5 m, driven into the ground).

Do not use household extension cords - they are not designed for inrush currents!

What to do if the cable is too short?

You can’t just extend the cable by twisting it! Correct ways:

• Use terminal block (for example, Wago 222) in the junction box;
• Solder sleeves and insulate with heat shrink;
• Replace the cable with a longer one (best option).

In RVs for extensions, use screw terminals (for example, Scotchlok) and be sure to secure the cable with ties to avoid breakage due to vibration.