Installing powerful kitchen equipment, such as an electric cooker or oven, always requires careful preparation of the electrical network. Many apartment owners, buying modern induction or glass ceramic plate, faced with the question of the correct selection of protective automation. Wrongly chosen switch-off It can either constantly knock out when cooking, or, which is much more dangerous, it can not work when overloading the wiring.
In this article, we will discuss in detail what kind of machine is needed for an electric stove running from a 220 volt network. You will learn how to calculate power consumption, why it is important to consider the cross-section of the cable and what protection characteristics are critical for the safe operation of kitchen appliances.
Ignoring the rules of equipment selection often leads to melting of insulation or even fire. Therefore, the question electrical safety It is worth approaching with maximum responsibility, based on the norms of PUE and the technical characteristics of your particular device.
Calculation of power and current strength: the basis of choice
The first step in choosing a protective device is to determine the actual power consumption of your equipment. On the back wall of the plate or in the product passport, the total power of all burners and oven is always indicated. For standard apartments, this figure usually ranges from 3.5 to 8.5. kilowatt.
Knowing the power, it is necessary to calculate the current strength that will flow through the circuit. For a single-phase 220V network, a simple formula is used: power is divided by voltage. However, for accuracy, it should be taken into account. capacity (cos Ο), which for heating elements is close to unity, but for induction panels with electronics may be lower.
- π 3.5 kW - corresponds to a current of about 16 Amps (standard socket).
- π₯ 5.0 kW - requires a current of about 23 Amps (needs a separate machine).
- β‘ 7.0 kW - consumes about 32 Amps (requires reinforced wiring).
- π 9.0 kW Current exceeds 40 Amps (rarely for 220V, better 380V).
It is important to understand that the calculated current is not the final figure for choosing an automatic machine. It is necessary to take into account the starting currents and the possible simultaneous operation of all burners at maximum power.
β οΈ Attention: Never choose a βreserveβ machine if you have old wiring. The machine protects the cable, not the stove. If the cable is 16A and you put the machine on 32A, the wiring will burn before the protection works.
Characteristics of automatic switches
When choosing a protective device, it is not enough to know only the nominal current. A critically important characteristic is time-current, which is denoted by the Latin letters B, C or D. For household appliances with heating elements and electronic control, automatic machines of the type are most suitable C.
Automatics with characteristics Β«CΒ» are triggered when the nominal current is exceeded by 5-10 times, which allows you to survive short-term voltage surges when you turn on powerful equipment without false switching off. Using type B devices is possible, but they are more sensitive and can knock out more often.
It is also worth paying attention to disconnection. For apartments, it is recommended to use automatic machines with an index of at least 6 kA (6000 Amps). This ensures that the device does not break down on short circuit and breaks the circuit safely.
Cable cross-section: communication with the nominal value of the machine
The automatic switch is selected strictly under the cross section of the laid cable, and not under the power of the plate. If the wire is thin and the machine is powerful, when overloaded, the insulation will begin to melt, and protection will not follow. Copper cable is the standard for modern wiring.
For reliable connection of the stove, it is recommended to use a cable with a monolithic copper vein. Aluminum wires in new power lines powerful consumers apply forbidden because of their low conductivity and propensity for oxidation.
Below is a table of correspondence of the copper cable cross-section, the permissible current and the nominal value of the machine for the 220V network:
| Cable cross-section (mm2) | Max. current (A) | Score of the machine (A) | Max. power (kW) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1.5 | 19 | 10 | 2.2 |
| 2.5 | 27 | 16 | 3.5 |
| 4.0 | 38 | 25 | 5.5 |
| 6.0 | 50 | 32 | 7.0 |
| 10.0 | 70 | 40 | 9.0 |
If your stove consumes 7 kW, you will need a 6 mm2 cable and a 32 Amp machine. Using a 4 mm2 cable with a 32A automatic is a grave mistake, as the cable will run to the limit of its capabilities.
βοΈ Pre-installing check
Type of connection: socket or terminal
There are two main ways to connect the stove to the network: through a power outlet with a fork or directly through the terminal box. The choice of method depends on the power of the device and the frequency of its movement.
For plates with a capacity of up to 3.5 kW, it is quite permissible to use a standard euro-plate 16A. However, if the power exceeds 4 kW, the use of an outlet connection becomes undesirable due to the risk of heating the contacts and melting the plastic.
A reliable solution for powerful models is direct connection through the terminal-stitch orthose RSh. In this case, the automatic switch is installed in the shield, and from it the cable goes directly to the terminals of the plate.
- π οΈ Rosetta - convenient for frequent replacement of equipment, but limited in current.
- π© Clemmn maximum reliability of contact, eliminates sparking.
- π RSh-WS connector - allows you to quickly turn off the stove, can withstand up to 40A.
With any connection method, it is critical to ensure quality grounding. Modern plates have a metal body, and breaking the insulation on it without grounding is deadly.
β οΈ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to use zero wire or water supply / heating pipes for grounding the electric stove. This can cause tension to appear on the housings of neighbouring appliances or pipes throughout the house.
Do I need an ultrasound or a difaute?
Simply installing an automatic switch is not enough for complete safety. An electroplate is a device that operates in conditions of high humidity and temperature, which increases the risk of current leakage. To protect a person from electrical damage, a protective shutdown device is necessary (CCD).
The RCD responds to the difference between incoming and outgoing current. If a portion of the current is leaked through a person or damaged insulation, the device will instantly (<0.04 sec) turn off the power. For wet rooms and kitchens, leakage current is recommended no more 30 m. (0.03 A).
Often instead of the bundle "Automatic + RCD" used differential (difautomatic), which combines the functions of protection against overload and current leakage in one housing. This saves space in the shield, but costs a little more.
Typical errors in installation
Even with the correct calculation of denominations, fatal errors can be made when assembling the scheme. One of the most common is the use of twist instead of the terminal clamps. The violin over time oxidizes, warms and becomes a hotbed of fire.
Another common problem is poor contact at the place where the cable is connected to the automatic or plate terminal. If the screws are not tightened with the proper effort, a transition resistance occurs at the contact point, leading to local overheating and melting of the body.
It is also a mistake to ignore the color marking of the wires. Phase, zero and ground must be connected strictly to the respective terminals. By confusing phase and zero, you can not disrupt the operation of the device, but create a dangerous situation during maintenance.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Can I connect a 7 kW plate to a regular outlet?
No, you can't. Standard household outlets are designed for current up to 16 Amps (about 3.5 kW). Connecting a powerful stove will cause the socket, plug and wiring to melt, which will lead to a fire. A separate line and power connector are required.
Why does the machine knock out when the oven is turned on?
There may be several reasons: malfunction of the oven TECH (short circuit), breakage of insulation on the body, or the total power of the devices included exceeds the nominal value of the machine. It is also possible that the machine itself has a defect or weakened contact.
Which wire is better to use: flexible or rigid?
For hidden wiring in the wall, it is better to use a rigid single-wire cable (for example, VWGng-LS). To connect the plate itself to the terminal, a flexible multi-core wire is more convenient (PVC or KG), but its ends must necessarily be pressed with tips or smeared.
Do I need to put a separate machine on the oven and the cooking room?
If they are installed separately and have high power, it is desirable to power them from different machines. If they are built-in and connected by one wire (dependent), then one common machine is enough, designed for the total load.