Choosing ovals (or, as they are also called, “eggs”) for a car with power steering is a much more important task than it seems at first glance. Incorrectly selected parts can not only worsen handling, but also disable the hydraulic or electric booster in a matter of months. In this article, we’ll look at why the standard “get it cheaper” recommendations don’t work here, what parameters are critical for preserving the life of the amplifier, and how not to run into a fake that will result in expensive repairs.

Let's clarify the terminology right away: ovals (they are also steering rod silent blocks or swing arm bushings) are rubber-metal joints that dampen vibrations and ensure the mobility of steering elements. In cars with an amplifier (power steering/electric power steering), it falls on them double load: in addition to mechanical shocks, they must compensate for the hydraulic or electrical resistance of the system. That is why “universal” ovals from nameless manufacturers are absolutely not suitable here.

Next - specific selection criteria, comparison of materials and brands, as well as list of car models where an error in the selection of ovals most often leads to damage to the amplifier.

Why "regular" ovals are not suitable for cars with power steering

The main difference between ovals for cars with power steering/power steering is increased resistance to torsional loads. In a conventional steering system, silent blocks work mostly in compression-tension, but in power-assisted cars they constantly experience torque, which is created by the power steering pump or electric motor. If the bushing material is not designed for such conditions, it begins to “float”, which leads to:

  • 🔧 Steering play - first barely noticeable, then critical (up to 5–7°).
  • 💦 Power steering fluid leaks - due to misalignment of the pump shaft.
  • ⚡ EUR overheating — the electronics detects abnormal resistance and goes into protection.
  • 🚗 Uneven tire wear — the wheels begin to “float” when moving in a straight line.

Classic example: on Toyota Corolla E150 (2010–2013) installation of non-original ovals from Febi instead of Toyota OEM in 80% of cases it leads to leakage of the steering rack oil seal after 20–30 thousand km. The reason is too soft rubber, which deforms under power steering pressure.

⚠️ Attention: If, after replacing the ovals, the steering wheel becomes “heavy” at low speeds, but rotates easily at high speeds, this is a sign that the silent blocks are too rigid. In this case the load on the power steering pump increases 2–3 times, which leads to its premature wear.
📊 What kind of power steering is installed in your car?
Hydraulic booster (power steering)
Electric power steering (EUR)
Hybrid (EGUR)
I don't know
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Top 5 criteria for choosing ovals for a car with an amplifier

When selecting silent blocks for cars with power steering/electric steering, pay attention to the following parameters (in order of importance):

  1. Inner sleeve material - must be metal-ceramic or polyurethane (for EUR). Ordinary rubber decomposes upon contact with power steering fluid.
  2. Shore A hardness - optimal 60–70 units for power steering and 75–85 units for EUR. Soft ovals (<55 units) “lubricate” the feedback.
  3. Availability of protective anthers — without them, dirt gets into the joint and it wears out 5 times faster.
  4. Amplifier type compatibility — some ovals are designed only for power steering or only for electric steering (see table below).
  5. Brand and country of production - Chinese no-name parts are often counterfeited for European brands (for example, Lemforder or TRW).
Amplifier type Recommended oval material Minimum hardness (Shore A) Examples of compatible brands
Hydraulic booster (power steering) Metal ceramics + butadiene rubber 60–70 Toyota OEM, Honda Original, Febi Bilstein (series 36200)
Electric power steering (EUR) Polyurethane + aluminum bushing 75–85 TRW, Lemforder, SASIC (for VW Group)
Hybrid (EGUR) Composite polymer + Teflon coating 70–80 ZF, Mando, Koyo

Pay special attention bore size. For example, on Hyundai Solaris (2017–2020) ovals for power steering have a diameter 14 mm, and for the EUR - 12 mm. It's easy to confuse, but the consequences will be fatal: the wrong silent block will simply turn in the seat.

Check the catalog number of the original (for example, 45503-28010 for Mazda 3)

Compare Shore A hardness to manufacturer's recommendations

Check for protective boots included

Make sure the brand specializes in parts for your type of amp

Inspect the packaging for holograms (counterfeits are often sold in “gray” boxes)

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The best oval brands for power-assisted cars: reliability comparison

The spare parts market is full of fakes, so we selected only those manufacturers whose ovals guaranteed compatible with power steering and have a minimal percentage of defects (according to ADAC and AutoExpress for 2023).

  • 🥇 Toyota OEM / Honda Original — the standard for Japanese cars. Rubber with added Kevlar fibers, resource up to 150 thousand km. The downside is the price (from 1,800 rubles per set).
  • 🥈 TRW (series JTE500) - the optimal choice for European cars (VW, Skoda, Renault). Polyurethane bushings can withstand up to 120 thousand km even with an aggressive driving style.
  • 🥉 Lemforder (ruler 31306) is the best option for BMW and Mercedes with EUR. The cermet bushing reduces the load on the electric motor by 15–20%.
  • ⚠️ Febi Bilstein - a budget option (from 800 rubles), but suitable only for power steering. Too soft for EUR - risk of engine overheating.
  • 🚫 Sasic / NK - high percentage of defects (up to 12% according to Autodoc). Counterfeits often come across TRW.

For owners Korean cars (Kia, Hyundai) is worth taking a closer look at Mando is a Korean OEM supplier that produces ovals specifically for power steering. Their parts come from the factory to Kia Ceed and Hyundai Elantra after 2018.

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Before purchasing, check to see if your model is on the list of “problem” ovals. For example, on Ford Focus 3 (2011–2014) even original ovals Ford they often “whistle” when turning the steering wheel - this is a factory defect that can only be eliminated by modifying the seat.

Which oval material is better: rubber, polyurethane or cermet?

The choice of material directly depends on the type of amplifier and driving style. Let's look at the pros and cons of each option:

1. Rubber (styrene-butadiene)

Pros: low cost, good vibration absorption, soft feedback.

Cons: quickly “tans” upon contact with power steering fluid, maximum service life - 50 thousand km. Only suitable for lightly loaded power steering (for example, Lada Vesta with amplifier from ZF).

2. Polyurethane

Pros: 3 times more durable than rubber, not afraid of oil and high temperatures, hardness does not change over time.

Cons: transmits more vibrations to the steering wheel and can squeak at low temperatures. Optimal for EUR (for example, Volkswagen Polo with amplifier TRW).

3. Metal ceramics

Pros: resource up 200 thousand km, withstands extreme loads, does not deform under power steering pressure.

Cons: high price (from 2,500 rubles per set), harsh feedback (may not appeal to those who like a “light” steering wheel).

For most modern cars with ESD, the best choice would be polyurethane with aluminum sleeve. But for old cars with power steering (for example, Toyota Camry XV40) it's better to take metal ceramics — it maintains the tightness of the system longer.

What happens if you put rubber ovals in a car with an electric steering system?

Polyurethane or metal-ceramic ovals are designed for high rigidity, so when installing rubber analogues, the following will happen:

1. The electric motor of the power steering will begin to work with overload (current consumption will increase by 20–30%).

2. After 10–15 thousand km, the tires will “float” and play will appear in the steering.

3. The system will start giving an error C1044 (exceeding the permissible resistance), and the EUR will go into emergency mode.

4. In the worst case, the power transistor of the EUR control unit will burn out (repair will cost 15–20 thousand rubles).

Step-by-step instructions: how to replace ovals without damaging the amplifier

Replacing steering rod silent blocks is an operation that can be performed independently, but with the obligatory observance of several rules. Mistakes here are fraught damage to the amplifier shaft or depressurization of the power steering system.

Required tools:

  • 🔧 Silent block remover (for example, KUKKO 21-1 or Laser 6440).
  • 🔨 Socket wrenches on 17, 19 and 22.
  • 🛠 Torque wrench (tightening torque - 80–100 Nm).
  • 🧴 Power steering fluid (for topping up after work, if required).
  • 🔥 Gas burner (for heating the seats if the ovals are “stuck”).

Work order:

  1. Raise the car on a lift or jack, remove the front wheels.
  2. Disconnect the steering rods from the rack (after marking their position with a marker!).
  3. Press out the old ovals with a puller. Don't use a hammer - this deforms the seat.
  4. Clean the seat from rust and old grease (use a metal brush and WD-40).
  5. Install new ovals, having previously lubricated them lithol (for rubber) or molybdenum grease (for polyurethane).
  6. Tighten the nuts with a torque wrench 90 Nm (for most models).
  7. Bleed the power steering system (if required) and check for leaks.
⚠️ Attention: If, after replacing the ovals, the steering wheel became “heavy” in place, but returned to normal when moving, this is a sign that the silent blocks are too rigid. In this case it is necessary to adjust the pressure in the power steering system (for this you need a diagnostic scanner, for example, Launch X431).
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Never use a standard ball joint puller to press in ovals - it does not provide uniform force, and the silent block may install crookedly. This will lead to uneven wear and play after 5-10 thousand km.

Top 3 mistakes when choosing and installing ovals (and how to avoid them)

Even experienced technicians sometimes make mistakes that cost owners amplifier repairs. Here are the most common of them:

  1. Ignoring amplifier type. For example, installing ovals for power steering in a car with electric steering (or vice versa). This causes the system to start working in emergency mode, and the service life of parts is reduced by 2–3 times.
  2. Saving on lubrication. Dry ovals wear out 5 times faster. For rubber parts use lithol, for polyurethane - molybdenum grease, for metal ceramics - graphite paste.
  3. Incorrect tightening. If you tighten the nuts, the silent block will deform; if you don’t tighten them enough, a backlash will appear. Always use a torque wrench!

Another typical mistake is buying ovals “by appearance.” For example, on Nissan Qashqai J10 The ovals for power steering and power steering are visually identical, but have different rigidity. Installing the wrong part results in steering wheel vibrations at speeds of 80–100 km/h.

To avoid problems, always check with Vehicle VIN code when selecting spare parts. For example, in the directory Autodoc or Exist you can enter the VIN and get the exact part number of ovals suitable for your modification.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about ovals and power steering

Is it possible to install polyurethane ovals in a car with power steering?

Yes, but only if they are certified for power steering. For example, polyurethane ovals TRW JTE500 suitable for power steering, but cheap analogues from Energy Suspension - no (they are designed for electric power steering). The main thing is to check the rigidity Shore A (for power steering it should be no higher 70 units).

How to understand that the ovals are worn out and it’s time to change them?

Signs of oval wear:

  • Knocking or squeaking noise when turning the steering wheel (especially on rough roads).
  • Steering play more 3–5° (checked at a service station using a backlash meter).
  • Uneven tire wear along the inner edge.
  • Power steering fluid leakage (if the ovals are deformed and the pump shaft is skewed).

On EUR, wear of ovals is often accompanied by an error C1011 (torque sensor malfunction).

How long do ovals last in a power-assisted car?

Service life depends on the material and operating conditions:

  • Rubber: 30–50 thousand km (in power steering - less due to contact with liquid).
  • Polyurethane: 80–120 thousand km (optimal for electric power steering).
  • Metal ceramics: 150–200 thousand km (the best option for power steering).

In aggressive conditions (off-road driving, frequent loads on the steering wheel), the service life is reduced by 30–40%.

Is it possible to drive with worn ovals?

Technically it is possible, but this leads to avalanche wear other elements:

  • In the power steering - destruction of the rack and pump seals (repair from 20 thousand rubles.).
  • In the EUR - overheating of the motor and failure of the power unit (replacement from 35 thousand rubles.).
  • In both cases, there is uneven tire wear and the risk of loss of control at speed.
Critical wear (play more 10°) can lead to steering jamming.
Which brand of ovals is the most reliable for Russian roads?

For Russian conditions (bad roads, temperature changes), the best options are:

  • TRW — optimal price/quality ratio for European cars.
  • Lemforder is the best choice for BMW and Mercedes with EUR.
  • Mando — Korean OEM, ideal for Kia/Hyundai.
  • SAAZ (Russia) - budget option for Frets and Renault (resource 60–80 thousand km).

Avoid Febi and NK — they have a high percentage of fakes on the Russian market.