Choosing the right supplies often becomes the deciding factor between a perfectly flat line and endless struggle with the tangled tangle under the shuttle. Many beginners mistakenly believe that for home appliances suitable absolutely any coil bought in the nearest supermarket, but this misconception can cost you the breakdown of expensive machinery. Sewing thread Not only must they match the type of fabric, but they must also withstand the high-speed tension created by modern equipment.
In this article we will analyze all the nuances of marking, chemical composition and physical and mechanical properties that determine the quality of the seam. You will learn to understand the difference between Laval, Armadur And you'll learn why the thickness of the thread directly affects the choice of needle. The correct selection of consumables prolongs the life of your car and provides a professional look for the finished product.
The main types of fibers and their characteristics
Modern industry offers a huge range of threads created from natural and synthetic raw materials. The most common option for household needs are polyester They are very strong and they are very strong and they are very strong. They are virtually unaffected by moisture and sunlight, making them ideal for clothes that will be washed and worn frequently.
Natural. cotton remains indispensable for working with natural fabrics, especially if the product involves subsequent hot ironing or staining. Cotton threads have a matte surface and melt well at high temperatures, so they are often used in combination with linen or rayon fabrics. However, it is worth remembering that pure cotton is less elastic than synthetics, and can tear when knitted with strong stretching.
- 🧵 Polyester (100% PES): The versatile choice for most fabrics is durable and cheap.
- 🌿 Cotton (100% CO): Ideal for natural materials, well tolerates high temperatures of the iron.
- 🌀 Polyester cotton (Core-spun): A polyester core and a cotton braid combine the strength of synthetics and the softness of natural fiber.
- ✨ Viscose: It is used mainly for decorative lines due to its bright shine, but it is less durable.
⚠️ Warning: Never use hand torsional threads (stacks) in high-speed cars. They have too loose structure and a large amount of pile, which will lead to rapid clogging of the shuttle node and breakage of the needle.
A special feature are reinforced threads, where another layer of more durable fiber is braided around a cotton or polyester core. Such reinforced thread (e.g., Laval 40/2) are considered the gold standard for tailoring denim clothing, leather and other dense materials. Their price is higher, but the cost is usually less due to the absence of breaks in the process of work.
Understanding the numbering and thickness system
One of the most confusing topics for beginners is thickness labeling. Unlike needles, where the larger the number, the thicker the tool, the inverse logic of the metric system operates in the numbering of threads. The higher the number in the denominator of the fraction (for example, 50 in the designation 40/2), the thinner the thread itself. This is because the number indicates the length of the thread in kilometers, which is contained in one kilogram of weight.
For household sewing machines, threads No. 40 and No. 50 are most often used. Strands No. 40 are considered universal and suitable for grinding most medium-density fabrics, from costume to tight knitwear. More subtle. threads 50-60 are used for light silk fabrics, chiffon or for finishing work, where the seam should not be noticeable.
There is also a Tex system that indicates the weight of 1000 meters of the thread in grams. In this system, on the contrary, the larger the number, the thicker the thread. For example, Tex 40 it's thicker than Tex 20. Understanding this difference is critical when ordering consumables from overseas catalogues where the metric system may not apply.
What does the second digit in the 40/2 sign mean?
The second number indicates the number of additions (twisting). For example, 40/2 means that two strands #40 are taken and twisted together. This makes the thread stronger and thicker than a single 40/1. For ordinary household tasks, single or double-cool threads of standard thickness are most often enough.
Table of correspondence of threads, needles and tissues
The harmony between the thickness of the thread, the size of the needle and the density of the fabric is the foundation of a quality seam. If the needle is too thin for the thick thread, the needle’s eye will not be able to push the fiber through the fabric, which will cause the stitches to break or pass. Conversely, a needle too thick on a thin fabric will leave unsightly holes.
Below is a reference table that will help you quickly navigate the selection of a kit for work. Save it so that you don’t guess what equipment is needed for a particular project every time.
| tissue | Recommended thread number | Needle size (EU) | Needle type |
|---|---|---|---|
| Silk, chiffon, batiste | 60-80 | 60-70 | Sharp (Sharp) |
| Cotton, linen, costume. | 40-50 | 75-80 | Universal. |
| Jeans, tight cotton. | 30-40 | 90-100 | Jeans (Jeans) |
| Knitting, stretching. | 40-50 (elastic) | 75-90 | With a rounded edge (Ball Point) |
| Skin, suede | 30-40 (reinforced) | 90-110 | With a cutter (Leather) |
When working with specific materials, such as leather or vinyl, it is important to use not only the correct thickness, but also a special needle profile. A regular needle will simply puncture the material while a needle with a dissecter (a)Leather) make a cut, allowing the thick thread to pass freely without deforming the edges of the hole.
☑️ Checking before starting the project
The impact of quality on the work of the sewing mechanism
Using cheap low quality threads is the quickest way to disable a sewing machine. Cheap polyester often has an uneven thickness along the entire length, which causes tension jumps and, as a result, looping the string from below. In addition, such threads may have a weak twist, because of which they begin to "fluff" already in the process of passing through the ear of the needle.
Pile and dust formed from poor-quality threads settle inside the shuttle compartment and on a geared rack. Over time, this mixture turns into a dense substance that blocks the movement of mechanisms. Cleaning the car In this case, it is required after each product, which significantly reduces the resource of the equipment.
⚠️ Warning: If you hear a characteristic crackle when sewing or see that the thread is constantly breaking with the formation of a “shaggy” end, stop working immediately. This is a sign that the thread is being burned against the needle due to friction or has critical structural defects.
Good threads have a special lubrication (paraffinization or siliconization), which reduces friction at high speeds. They are smooth to the touch, without knots and thickenings. When stretched, the quality thread will slightly spring, rather than stretching like a rubber band and not tearing instantly like a dried fiber.
Quality Check: Rewind a little thread and rub it between your fingers. If the fingers are left with a white plaque or pile, and the thread itself has become shaggy - it is better not to use it for important projects, it will quickly clog the mechanism.
Special threads for decorative works
To create spectacular seams, embroidery or finishing edges, special types of threads are used that differ from standard grinding ones. muline Machine embroidery usually has a looser structure and bright shine, but it is not designed to connect parts, as it does not have the necessary strength.
Also popular are threads Monofilament (Monon) which is a transparent line. They are indispensable for secretly filling the bottom of trousers or skirts, when you need the thread was absolutely not visible on the front side. However, you need to work with them carefully: monofill is hard and may require a weakening of the upper tension.
- 🌟 Metalized: contain metallized film, require the use of special needles with a large ear.
- 🧶 Texture: have a pile surface to simulate a manual stitch, used only in the upper shuttle.
- 🌈 Gradient: change color along the length, creating the effect of overflow, popular in patchwork sewing.
When working with decorative threads, it is often necessary to change the tension settings. If the ordinary thread lies in the fabric evenly, then the decorative one can tighten the fabric or, conversely, lie too loose. In such cases, masters often use the technique when a decorative thread is inserted into the upper shuttle, and in the lower (in the spool) - the usual thin thread in the fabric tone, with a previously weakened tension of the upper thread.
Storage rules and shelf life
Many people are surprised, but threads also tend to deteriorate with time. Old stocks inherited from grandmothers can become brittle and break at the slightest tension. This is due to the destruction of polymer chains under the influence of ultraviolet light and temperature changes. Especially sensitive to aging threads with the addition of natural fibers.
The ideal storage environment is a dark, dry place with room temperature. Direct sunlight is the main enemy of all textile materials. If you store threads on open shelves, over time, their color can burn out and the structure can become brittle.
Freshness of threads can be checked by a simple test: tie the knot and sharply pull the ends. If the thread burst immediately - it is dry and unsuitable for the machine. If you can stand the jerk, you can sew.
Also avoid storing threads in the bathroom or near heating appliances. Increased humidity can lead to the appearance of mold on natural fibers, which will not only spoil the thread, but also pollute the mechanism of the machine with fungus spores. Plastic containers with a dense cover are an excellent option for organizing a home warehouse of sewing accessories.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can you use old Soviet threads in a modern machine?
You can use them, but with caution. First, check them for strength (test with a nodule). If the thread doesn’t crumble or tear, make sure it’s not too thick for your needle. Often, old threads have a lot of pile, so you will have to clean the car more often than usual.
What to do if the thread is constantly breaking?
There may be several reasons: a dull or damaged needle, an improperly installed needle (not to the end), too strong upper tension or low quality of the thread itself. Start by replacing the needle and checking the filament refill.
What is the difference between overlock threads and a sewing machine?
Overlock threads (usually in reels) are often thinner (No. 50-60) and have a looser twist to fill the edge of the cut rather than pulling it together. In a sewing machine, they can give a weak seam, but for temporary work or the bottom thread are sometimes suitable. Specialized overlay threads are cheaper per meter, as they are sold in large volumes.
How to choose the color of the threads, if there is no exact match?
The tailor’s rule is that if you can’t find an exact match, choose a thread darker than the fabric, not lighter. The dark thread will merge with the shadow in the folds of the fabric and will be less noticeable than the light thread, which will contrast against the background of the primary color.
Why can't you sew thick threads with a thin needle?
The eye of a thin needle is physically small, and a thick thread will not be able to pass through it freely. This will cause the thread to get stuck, break off or tear the tissue. In addition, the needle may not have time to form a loop for grabbing the shuttle, which will cause the stitches to pass.