Which threads are suitable for a sewing machine: a detailed selection guide

Choosing thread for a sewing machine is a task that seems simple only at first glance. In practice, incorrect selection can lead to breaks, skipped stitches, deformation of the fabric, or even equipment failure. This is especially critical if you sew from dense materials (for example, denim or leatherette) or working with delicate fabrics like chiffon.

In this article we will look not only types of threads and their purpose, but also nuances that are rarely talked about: how the thread number affects the strength of the seam, why synthetic threads can “melt” the fabric at high speeds, and which brands have earned the trust of professionals. Let us dwell separately on compatibility with household and industrial machines - after all, what is suitable for Janomemay not work for Brother.

If you have ever encountered the problem that the machine “chews” the thread or the seam turns out uneven, most likely the problem lies in the wrong choice. Below you will find checklists, correspondence tables and answers to frequently asked questions that will save you time and nerves.

1. Main types of threads for sewing machines

All threads for sewing machines are divided into natural, synthetic and mixed. Each type has its pros and cons, as well as recommended areas of application. Let's take a closer look at them.

Cotton threads - a classic that is suitable for most household tasks. They are breathable, do not electrify and are ideal for natural fabrics (cotton, linen, cambric). However, cotton does not withstand high sewing speeds and may tear when working with dense materials. In addition, such threads fade over time in the sun and lose strength.

Polyester threads - a universal option for modern machines. They are durable, flexible, abrasion resistant and suitable for most fabrics, including synthetics. The main disadvantage is that at high temperatures (for example, when ironing) they can melt, leaving shiny marks on the fabric. Popular brands: Gütermann, Mettler, Coats.

Nylon threads used for elastic fabrics (knitwear, swimwear, sportswear). They stretch along with the material, do not tear or deform the seam. However, nylon is sensitive to ultraviolet light and may turn yellow over time. Working with nylon threads often requires a special needle (for example, stretch or ballpoint).

Silk threads — a premium option for delicate fabrics (silk, satin, fine knitwear). They give a perfectly smooth seam, but are very capricious in operation: they require precise tension adjustment and are not suitable for all machines. Most often used in hand sewing or on professional equipment.

• 🌿 Cotton — for natural fabrics, low-speed sewing.
• ♻️ Polyester - a universal choice for household machines.
• 🧘 Nylon - for elastic materials, but is afraid of the sun.
• 👗 Silk - luxurious stitching, but difficult to use.

2. How to choose threads by number and thickness

The thread number indicates its thickness: the higher the number, the thinner the thread. For example, thread No. 40 is thinner than thread No. 20. This is critically important for the choice, since a thread that is too thick may not pass through the eye of the needle or get stuck in the machine mechanism, and a thread that is too thin may break when tensioned.

For most household machines, the optimal range is №40–№60. Thicker threads (No. 20–No. 30) are used for decorative seams, embroidery, or working with dense fabrics (tent fabric, denim). Thin threads (No. 70–No. 100) are suitable for delicate materials (batiste, organza) or invisible seams.

It is important to consider matching thread and needle. For example, for thread No. 40, a needle size of 80/12 is recommended, and for thread No. 60, a needle size of 70/10 is recommended. If the needle is too thin, the thread will slip into the eye, and if it is too thick, it may damage the fibers of the thread.

Thread number	Thickness (mm)	Recommended needle	Application
№20–№30	0,5–0,7	90/14–100/16	Jeans, tent fabric, decorative seams
№40	0,3–0,4	80/12	Cotton, linen, medium weight knitwear
№50	0,25–0,3	75/11	Dresses, blouses, light knitwear
№60–№70	0,18–0,22	70/10	Silk, chiffon, organza, invisible seams

⚠️ Attention: If you sew on an industrial machine (for example, Juki or Typical), check the maximum permissible thread thickness in the instructions. Some models do not support threads thinner than #50 due to the nature of the mechanism.

3. Threads for different types of fabrics: compatibility table

The choice of thread directly depends on the material you are working with. For example, for denim you need strong polyester threads with a wax coating, and for knitwear - elastic nylon. Below is a compatibility table that will help you avoid mistakes.

Pay special attention mixed fabrics (for example, cotton + elastane). Here it is better to use universal polyester threads of medium thickness (No. 40–No. 50), as they combine strength and slight elasticity.

Fabric	Recommended threads	Thread number	Needle type
Cotton, linen	Cotton or polyester	№40–№50	Universal 80/12
Jeans, tent fabric	Wax coated polyester	№30–№40	Denim 90/14
Knitwear, jersey	Nylon or stretch polyester	№50–№60	Ballpoint 75/11
Silk, satin	Silk or thin polyester	№60–№80	Microtex 60/8
Leatherette, vinyl	Teflon coated polyester	№40–№50	Leather 90/14

For embroidery work special threads are used (for example, Madeira or Robison-Anton), which have high tensile strength and abrasion resistance. They can be matte, shiny or metallic - the choice depends on the design.

4. Popular brands of thread: what to choose?

The quality of the thread directly affects the sewing result. Cheap threads (for example, nameless Chinese threads) often break, fade or leave lint. Professionals recommend proven brands that guarantee uniform thickness and strength along the entire length.

Market leaders:

• 🇩🇪 Gütermann — German quality, universal threads for household machines. Series Serafil suitable for delicate fabrics and Mara - for dense materials.
• 🇨🇭 Mettler — Swiss precision, threads with uniform tension. Popular series Metrosene for elastic fabrics.
• 🇬🇧 Coats is a British brand with a wide range. Threads Moon ideal for embroidery Dual Duty - for universal use.
• 🇯🇵 Gunold — Japanese premium threads, often used in industrial production. Series Poly Sheen gives a glossy seam.
• 🇷🇺 Linda - a domestic brand, a budget analogue of foreign threads. Suitable for beginners.

When choosing, pay attention to a series of threads. For example, at Gütermann there are separate lines for embroidery (Sulky), denim (Jeans) and knitwear (Stretch). Don’t skimp on threads for important projects—cheap analogues can ruin the fabric or break the machine.

⚠️ Attention: If you sew on an industrial machine (for example, Pfaff or Durkopp Adler), use only thread recommended by the manufacturer. Some models require special Teflon-coated bobbins or threads.

5. Common mistakes when choosing threads

Even experienced seamstresses sometimes make mistakes that lead to defects or equipment breakdown. Here are the most common of them:

1. Mismatch of thread and needle. For example, a thin #80 thread in a 90/14 needle will dangle in the eye, causing skipped stitches. Always check the table for compliance.
2. Using old threads. Over time, threads lose strength, especially if stored in light or in a damp room. Check the thread for breakage before work.
3. Mixing different types of threads. For example, cotton in the top thread and polyester in the bottom thread can produce an uneven seam due to different elasticity.
4. Incorrect tension. Too much tension breaks the thread, too little tension leads to loops on the wrong side. Always test on a patch.
5. Ignoring thread coverage. Leatherette or vinyl requires Teflon-coated threads, otherwise they will “stick” to the material.

Another common problem is incorrect bobbin winding. If the thread is wound unevenly or too tightly, it will cling to the mechanism, which will lead to breaks. Always wind the thread onto the bobbin by hand or using a special device (if your machine has one).

6. How to store threads so they don’t spoil

Even the highest quality threads can deteriorate if stored improperly. Here are a few rules that will extend their service life:

• 🌞 Avoid direct sunlight. Ultraviolet light destroys fibers, especially nylon and silk threads. Store them in closed boxes or drawers.
• 💧 Control humidity. Dampness leads to the appearance of mold on cotton threads. Use silica gel bags to absorb moisture.
• 🧶 Do not store threads in polyethylene. They must “breathe”, otherwise they may become damp. It is better to use fabric or cardboard boxes.
• 🔥 Keep away from heat sources. High temperatures deform synthetic threads (polyester, nylon).

If the threads have been stored for a long time (more than 2-3 years), check them for strength before use: pull the tip - a high-quality thread should not break with light force. Also pay attention to the color: if the thread has faded or become brittle, it is better not to use it for critical projects.

For convenience, you can organize your storage system by color or type. For example, put the threads in containers with labels: “Cotton”, “Polyester”, “For denim”, etc. This will save time when choosing and protect the threads from damage.

What to do if the threads are dry?

If cotton threads become brittle, they can be slightly moistened with steam (hold over boiling water for 10–15 seconds) and then dried at room temperature. Synthetic threads cannot be restored - they will have to be thrown away.

7. Threads for special tasks: embroidery, quilting, stitching

For decorative and specialized work, threads with special properties are required. Let's look at the main types:

Embroidery threads (for example, Madeira Rayon or Robison-Anton) have high strength and shine. They come in different types:

• 🌈 Viscose - shiny, but sensitive to moisture.
• ♻️ Polyester — universal, suitable for machine embroidery.
• ✨ Metallized - for decorative effects, require a special needle.

Quilting threads (quilted products) should be durable and not fluffy. Popular brands: Gütermann Quilting, Coats & Clark. Typically threads of size 40-50 are used with a matte or slightly shiny finish.

Overcasting threads (for example, Gunold Overlock) are intended for overlockers. They are thinner than usual (No. 60–No. 80) and have high elasticity so as not to tear when the fabric is stretched. For overlocking, it is also important to use special bobbins for an overlocker - they are smaller in size than for a regular machine.

When working with heavy fabrics (e.g. tarpaulin, tent) use compacted threads with wax or Teflon coating. They wear out less and do not slip in the needle. Examples: Gütermann Mara 70, Coats Heavy Duty.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about sewing machine threads

Is it possible to use cotton threads for sewing synthetic fabrics?

Technically possible, but not recommended. Cotton is less elastic than polyester, so seams on synthetics (such as polyester or nylon) may warp when stretched. In addition, cotton threads wear out faster when rubbing against synthetic fibers.

Why does the thread break when sewing?

There are several reasons:

• Thread and needle thickness do not match.
• A dull or bent needle.
• The upper or bobbin thread tension is too tight.
• Poor thread quality (uneven thickness, knots).
• Contamination of the machine mechanism (dust, lint).

First check the tension and change the needle. If the problem persists, test another thread.

What threads are best for sewing jeans?

Suitable for denim polyester threads No. 30–No. 40 with wax or Teflon coating. They are durable, abrasion-resistant and do not tear when sewing thick seams. Popular brands: Gütermann Jeans, Coats Denim. You will also need a special needle for jeans (Denim 90/14–100/16).

Can I use hand sewing thread in a machine?

No, this is absolutely not recommended. Threads for hand sewing (for example, "Ideal" or DMC) have a different weave and coating. They cannot withstand the speed of the machine, wear out quickly and can clog the mechanism. In addition, such threads often fluff, which leads to skipped stitches.

How to choose thread color?

There are several rules:

• For invisible seams, choose a thread 1-2 shades darker than the fabric.
• For decorative seams, on the contrary, 1-2 shades lighter.
• For variegated or checkered fabric, choose a thread in the darkest shade.
• For transparent fabrics (organza, tulle), use threads monofilament (transparent).

If in doubt, use a thread in a shade of gray - it is universal and less noticeable on most fabrics.