The situation when you get into a car, turn a key or press a button Start/Stop, and in response you hear only a lonely click or silence, familiar to many drivers. If there is a classic mechanic under the hood, an experienced motorist will not be confused and will quickly start the engine “from the pusher”. However, car owners with automatic transmission find themselves in a much more difficult position, since there is no static hydraulic connection between the wheels and the engine.
Trying to start a car with an automatic transmission without a starter is not just a technical challenge, but often a matter of safety and preservation of expensive transmission components. Unlike a manual transmission, where torque is transmitted directly through the clutch, an automatic transmission requires oil pressure to engage gears, which is created by the running engine. Toyota, Hyundai or Volkswagen — the operating principle of a classic torque converter is the same for everyone, and it is almost impossible to bypass it using simple methods without the risk of destroying the box.
However, there are workarounds that allow you to revive your car in an emergency. These range from the use of external power sources to complex manipulations of the electrical circuit of the starter itself. It is important to understand that starting an engine with an automatic transmission by towing is absolutely impossible and can cause fatal damage to the transmission, so don't even try. Next, we will analyze the real methods, their effectiveness and the risks that the driver takes on.
Why can't you start a machine gun with a pusher?
Many drivers who switch from manual to automatic mistakenly believe that the “push” principle works everywhere. This is a dangerous misconception. In a manual transmission, the shafts are rigidly connected, and the rotation of the wheels is transmitted to the engine crankshaft, creating the necessary compression to ignite the mixture. In the case of torque converter The connection between the input and output shaft is carried out exclusively through liquid (oil).
When the engine is stopped, the oil pump, which is usually driven by the engine itself, does not work. Without oil pressure, the clutches do not compress, and the torque from the wheels is simply not transmitted to the engine. You can accelerate a heavy crossover to 60 km/h, turn on the Drive, but the engine will remain standing, and the gearbox will receive critical wear or heat.
⚠️ Attention: An attempt to start a car with an automatic transmission by towing or pushing will most likely lead to failure of the friction discs and overheating of the oil. Repairing such a box will cost much more than replacing a starter or calling a tow truck.
There are rare exceptions in the form of robotic gearboxes with one clutch (for example, Easy-R or old versions Smart), which are structurally closer to mechanics. However, for classic automatic machines and CVTs Nissan or Toyota this method is closed. The only way to use inertia is to crank the engine through an external drive, but not through the wheels.
Starter Closing Method - Direct Start
The most effective way to start a car with a working battery, but a non-working solenoid relay or ignition switch contact group is to directly close the starter contacts. This method requires a minimum set of tools and an understanding of the location of components under the hood. The idea is to supply voltage directly to the control contact, bypassing the ignition switch.
First you need to ensure security. The car must be on the handbrake, the automatic transmission lever is in the Parking. Locate the starter, which is usually attached to the bottom of the crankcase. There are two main wires connected to it: a thick wire from the battery (constant plus) and a thin control wire (usually coming from the ignition switch).
- 🔧 Take a long screwdriver with an insulated handle or a piece of wire with stripped ends.
- ⚡ Press one end of the tool to the thick terminal (direct current from the battery).
- 🔄 Touch the other end of the thin control contact to complete the circuit.
- 🚀 The starter should start turning the engine, and if there is a spark and fuel, the engine will start.
This method is effective if the problem lies precisely in the electrical control circuit or the solenoid relay, and the starter motor OK However, there are risks here: you can accidentally short the wiring to ground, cause a short circuit, or damage the electronic control units if the voltage in the system jumps. You need to act extremely carefully.
Use only tools with dielectric handles. Accidentally touching a metal part of the body or engine with a screwdriver while closing the contacts will cause a powerful spark and can melt the tool.
Starting using a starting device (Booster)
Often the reason for starter failure lies not in its breakdown, but in a critical discharge of the battery, which is not able to crank the crankshaft at the required speed. In modern cars with the system Start-Stop starting current requirements have increased. If the starter clicks but does not turn, or turns sluggishly, an external starting device known as a booster will help.
The booster is a compact lithium-polymer battery with high output currents. Unlike “lighting up” from another car, a booster does not require a donor nearby. It is enough to connect the terminals of the device to the terminals of your battery, observing the polarity, and try to start the engine in the normal way. This is the safest method for car electronics.
| Device type | Starting current (A) | Weight (kg) | Price (RUB) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compact booster | 400-600 | 0.3-0.5 | 3000-5000 |
| Powerful booster | 1000-2000 | 1.0-2.0 | 6000-10000 |
| Starter-charger | 2000+ | 5.0-10.0 | 10000+ |
| Donor battery | 500-800 | 15.0 | Depends on battery |
Using a booster allows you to avoid deep discharge of the main battery and relieves the load on the on-board network. This is especially true for cars with a lot of electronics, such as Mercedes or BMW, where voltage surges when trying to start “at the limit” can cause errors in the control units.
☑️ Check before launching booster
Using wires for lighting
If you don’t have a booster at hand, the classic method of “lighting up” from another car remains working, but requires adherence to a strict algorithm, especially for cars with an automatic transmission. Errors in the connection sequence can lead to blown fuses or damage to the generator.
The donor vehicle must be started and idling. The wires must be of sufficient cross-section (at least 16 mm²) to withstand the starting current of the starter. Thin wires, which are often sold in cheap kits, can simply melt the first time you try to start a powerful engine.
⚠️ Attention: Never connect wires to a car with a completely “dead”, swollen or damaged battery. First you need to try to slightly recharge the dead battery from the donor for 10-15 minutes before starting.
After connecting and successfully starting the engine, do not turn off the car immediately. Give the generator time to charge the battery. If the starter is working but lacking power, this method will solve the problem instantly. It is also important to check the belt tension, as weak tension can lead to slipping and inefficient charging.
Restoration of contacts and grounding
Sometimes the starter is fully operational and the battery is charged, but the car does not start due to simple oxidation of the contacts or a bad ground. In cars with high mileage, such as older models Ford or Chevrolet, this is a common problem. Corrosion at the terminals creates high resistance, which prevents the required amount of current from reaching the starter.
First, inspect the battery terminals. If a white or greenish coating is visible on them, they must be removed and cleaned with a wire brush or sandpaper until shiny. It is also worth checking the attachment of the negative wire to the body and engine. A loose ground bolt can be the cause of all your troubles.
Try tapping the starter housing with the handle of a hammer (gently!). Sometimes this helps to move stuck brushes or a motor armature. This “old-fashioned” method works in cases where the wear of parts has not yet become critical, but temporary sticking has occurred. This may be your only chance to get to the service.
Why does knocking help?
Inside the starter there are graphite brushes that are pressed against the commutator by springs. Over time, they wear out or get stuck in their seats. The vibration from the impact may temporarily restore contact, allowing the engine to start a few more times.
When repair or replacement is needed
If none of the above methods help, then the problem is mechanical in nature. This could be wear of the bendix (overrunning clutch), burnout of the solenoid relay coils, or interturn short circuit of the windings. In such cases, operating the car by constantly starting it “with a screwdriver” is impossible and dangerous.
Symptoms of a serious breakdown include a metallic grinding sound when trying to start, a burning smell, or a complete lack of response even when the contacts are directly connected. In this case, the starter must be dismantled and subjected to troubleshooting. It is often cheaper and more reliable to replace the unit with a refurbished or new one than to repair the old one.
Do not forget that frequent intermittent starts can negatively affect the engine flywheel. The flywheel ring teeth also wear out, and if the starter bendix slips, it will quickly “lick” the teeth, which will require removing the gearbox to replace the ring.
If the starter clicks but does not turn even with a charged battery, the problem is most likely in the solenoid relay or brush assembly. The starter needs to be removed and repaired.
Is it possible to burn electronics by shorting the starter with a screwdriver?
Yes, there is a risk. An inaccurate short circuit can cause an arc or voltage surge that can damage sensitive control units (ECUs). A short circuit is also possible if the body is touched. Do this only as a last resort and with precautions.
Will replacing the battery help if the starter is faulty?
No. If the problem is mechanical (the starter is jammed, the windings are burned out) or electrical inside the unit itself, a new battery will only provide a powerful current, but will not make the mechanism work. In the worst case, the high current can damage the wiring.
How many times can you try to start a car using a pushrod?
Not once. For a classic automatic transmission, this method does not work fundamentally due to the lack of a rigid connection between the wheels and the engine. You'll only drain the battery and risk damaging the transmission.
What to do if the starter turns, but the car does not start?
So the problem is not in the starter. It is necessary to check the ignition system (plugs, coils) and fuel system (pump, filters, injectors). The starter did its job - it turned the engine over.