For most drivers looking under the hood of their car, the question of what the power steering looks like becomes relevant only when extraneous sounds or leaks of fluid. Visually, it is a complex system consisting of several key nodes scattered across the underhood space. Understanding where these items are located not only helps to diagnose the problem, but also avoid costly repairs by replacing just one part instead of the entire system in the assembly. The appearance of the components may vary depending on the make of the car, but the overall layout principle has remained similar for decades.
If you open the hood, it will immediately catch your eye. expansion-tank with a characteristic cover, which often depicts the steering wheel. This is the most noticeable element that immediately gives the presence of hydraulics in the car. From it, hoses are drawn to the pump and the steering mechanism itself, creating a closed circuit of oil circulation. It is difficult for a beginner to distinguish a high pressure hose from a hose, but knowing their location, you can easily understand what the whole system looks like in the complex.
The main purpose of this article is to give you a clear visual representation of each element. hydraulic-amplifier. We will discuss how to distinguish a serviceable node from a problem one, what to look for when inspecting and why knowing the appearance of components is critical for driving safety. You will learn to determine the signs of wear on external manifestations, without resorting to complex diagnosis at SRT.
Power pump: appearance and location
The central element of the whole system is pumpThis creates the necessary pressure to facilitate the rotation of the wheels. Visually, it is a compact unit of cylindrical or complex shape, made of aluminum or cast iron. It is almost always attached to the engine block and is driven by a separate belt, which is called the GUR belt. On modern cars, the belt may be shared by the generator and pump, but on classic models it often goes separately.
On the pump body, you will notice two main holes for connecting hoses: one for taking liquid from the tank, the other for supplying oil under pressure to the rack. The place of attachment of the high pressure hose is usually reinforced and has a characteristic metal fitting design. The body itself is often covered with a layer of dust and oil, which makes it difficult to visually inspect, so before diagnosis, it is better to wipe the unit with rags.
⚠️ Note: With the engine running, the pump belt rotates at a high speed. Never try to check the tension of the belt or touch the pulley with your fingers while the engine is running – this can lead to serious injury.
It is important to note that on some cars, for example, on older models. Mercedes or BMWThe pump can be combined with the tank in a single unit. In this case, it looks like a massive “can” with a neck, installed directly on the engine bracket. In other cases, as in many front-wheel drives VAG or RenaultThe pump is made separately and fixed to the side of the cylinder block, making it more affordable to replace.
When inspecting the pump, pay attention to the area around the coil shaft. If there are fresh oil streams that go down the body, then the tightness is broken and the pump will soon begin to buzz.
Powered steering rack: what it looks like
If the pump is at the top of the engine, steering-rail with integrated power booster is located in the lower part of the engine compartment, closer to the partition separating the cabin and the engine. It is visually more difficult to get to it, since the review is often closed by other units, but when lifting the car on the lift or viewing yard, the picture becomes clear. Reika is a long metal cylinder running across the car and connected by thrusts with the rotary fists of the wheels.
On the case of the rail you can see two metal pipes, which are suitable hoses from the pump. It is in this place that leaks most often occur, since sealing rings and glands are installed here, subject to vibrations and temperature expansions. On the ends of the slat there are anthers - corrugated rubber or plastic casings that protect internal mechanisms from dirt. Their integrity is the first indicator of the health of the node.
- 🔍 Wheat: They should be dry and without cracks; the presence of oil inside the anther indicates the leakage of reiki oils.
- 🔩 Fixtures: Reika is fixed on the subframe by powerful bolts that can rust over time.
- 🛢️ Stutzer: The places of connection of the tubes are often oxidized, which is seen by the whitish coating on aluminum.
It is worth mentioning that on cars with a rear engine, such as classic cars. Porsche or ZaporozhyeThe rack can be carried forward and the pump is installed in a non-standard place. But the principle remains the same: somewhere there must be a mechanism that converts hydraulic pressure into wheel rotation. Visually serviceable rack looks clean and dry, without traces of stains on protective covers.
Why do rods of reiki rust?
Steering rods (shafts coming out of anthers) are made of hardened steel, but when the anther is damaged, moisture and abrasive enter them. Rust on the rod destroys the omentum with each stroke of the reiki, causing leakage.
Extension tank and trunk hoses
The simplest visual element of the system is expansion-tank. It is usually made of translucent white or yellow plastic, which allows you to control the level of the liquid without opening the lid. The tank wall is marked with the labels "MIN" and "MAX", and often there is a symbol of the steering wheel. The tank can be installed directly on the pump or taken to the side, to the wing of the car, connecting to the system with flexible hoses.
Hoses connecting all the nodes are divided into two types: high pressure hoses and reversing hoses (low pressure). The former look like rigid, often reinforced tubes with metal tips, as they must withstand pressures of up to 100 bar or more. The second is the usual rubber hoses, softer and thicker, through which the cooled oil flows spontaneously or under a slight dilution returns to the tank.
| Element | Materials | Appearances | Typical problem |
|---|---|---|---|
| High-pressure hose | Rubber + cord | Hard, with metal fittings | Cracks, fogging |
| Return hose | Soft rubber | Flexible, often corrugated | Swelling, cracks |
| Bachelor | Plastic. | Semi-transparent, with a lid | Darkening of plastic |
| Pipes. | Aluminum/Steel | Hard, curved. | Corrosion, dents. |
Pay attention to the color of the hoses. New rubber products have a rich black color and a matte surface. If the rubber becomes gray, sticky to the touch, or covered with a network of small cracks (“web”), this is a sure sign of aging material. Such hoses can burst at any time, especially in the cold, when the rubber loses its elasticity.
☑️ Inspection of GUR hoses
Liquid for hydropower: color and condition
Although the liquid itself is inside the closed system, its condition can be assessed visually through the walls of the tank or by removing the plug. Fluid for GURs (often ATF, the fluid for automatic transmissions) plays the role of the working body transmitting the force. In a serviceable system, it has a transparent red, yellow or green color, depending on the specification of the car manufacturer.
If you unscrew the lid of the tank and see that the liquid has turned black, became cloudy or flakes floating in it, this is a signal of serious wear and tear of the system. Dark color indicates overheating and oxidation of oil, and metal shavings on the bottom of the tank or on the filter (if it is in the form of a mesh) indicates that pump-pump They started to break down from the inside.
There is a common misconception that liquids of different colors can not be mixed. Indeed, red liquids are usually mineral-based, while green liquids are synthetic. Mixing different bases can lead to foaming and loss of properties, which will instantly disable the pump. However, liquids of the same color from different manufacturers are often compatible, but it is better not to risk it and be guided by manual.
⚠️ Warning: Never use brake fluid in a power booster! Brake fluid is aggressive to rubber seals GUR and will lead to rapid swelling of the cuffs and system failure.
Visual signs of system failure
Knowing what a serviceable power booster looks like helps to quickly identify anomalies. The most obvious sign is oil stains on the asphalt after parking. A meadow under the front of the car, usually under the engine or closer to one of the front wheels, indicates depressurization. GUR oil has a specific smell and viscous consistency, different from motor oil or antifreeze.
Another visual marker is the state of the drive belt. If the belt of the GUR whistles when starting the engine on a cold or with a sharp turn of the steering wheel, then it slips. This can be caused by its wear (glossy shine of the working surface), weakening of tension or getting oil on the belt. Oil fog in the area of the pump pulley is a clear sign that the pump oment is “sweating”.
- 📉 Loss of level: If you have to fill up the liquid often, then there is a leak somewhere, even if there is no puddle on the ground (oil can burn out or splash).
- 🔊 GUG: Although it is a sound sign, it is often accompanied by a visual change in the color of the liquid to milk (air intake).
- 🌡️ Heating: Excessive heating of the tank or hoses to the touch may indicate clogging of the system or valve failure.
Often drivers ignore small fogging at the joints of the tubes, considering this the norm. In a high-pressure system, however, even a microscopic crack turns into a fountain over time. Regular visual inspection helps to catch the problem at the stage when it is enough to replace a penny hose, and not change the pump assembly.
Regular visual inspection of hoses and fluid level prevents sudden failure of power booster on the road and expensive repair of steering racks.
Comparison with an electric amplifier (ERM)
To get a definitive idea of what a power booster looks like, it’s helpful to know what its absence or alternative looks like. In modern cars, it is increasingly common. electric power steering (ERR). The main visual difference is the complete absence of hydraulic components: there is no tank with liquid, no pump with a belt, no hoses and tubes going to the rack.
In place of the pump in cars with EUR can stand just a plug or an additional roller for the belt. The steering rack itself also looks different: an electric motor with a control unit is fixed on its body, often closed with a plastic casing. The lack of fluids makes such a system cleaner visually, but when it breaks, it usually requires replacing the entire unit, since electronics repair is difficult.
You can determine the type of amplifier by simply opening the hood and finding a tank with the steering wheel symbol. If it is not, and when turning the steering wheel on a drowned out car, a light electric hum or clicks are heard, an electric amplifier is in front of you. If you see a tank and hear how after stopping the engine for a couple of seconds the pump buzzes (on some cars), then you have a classic power booster.
Can I add water to the GUR tank in an emergency?
Absolutely not. The water does not have the necessary lubricating properties and will cause instant corrosion of the inner parts of the pump and the reiki. In addition, the water will freeze at 0°C, tearing the aluminum casings. Only short-term use of a special substitute liquid or a compatible ATF in the minimum amount for the journey to the service is allowed.
Why does the GUR tank become murky from the inside out?
Darkening and turbidity of the walls of the tank occurs due to the aging of plastic under the influence of high temperatures and aggressive chemical environment of the oil. It can also be a consequence of the wear products of rubber seals and metal shavings entering the liquid that settle on the walls.
Do I need to warm up the GUR in winter?
Yes, cold oil is very thick and the pump is difficult to pump. Sharp jerks with the steering wheel on a cold engine can lead to the tearing of the cuffs or damage to the blades of the pump. It is recommended that the first couple of minutes of movement work smoothly with the steering wheel, without turning to the point.