Increasing the steering reach: when is it necessary and how to do it correctly

Increasing the steering reach (or ET - from German EinpressTiefe) is a procedure that may be required when tuning the suspension, installing wide wheels, or after an accident. However, this is not an operation that should be performed “by eye”: an incorrect offset affects handling, tire wear and safety. In this article, we’ll look at when you really need to adjust the offset, what methods exist (from spacers to completely replacing the hubs), and how to avoid critical mistakes.

It is important to understand: the factory steering wheel reach is calculated by engineers taking into account loads, suspension geometry and vehicle dynamics. Any intervention changes the distribution of forces on the wheel bearings, levers and shock absorbers. For example, increasing the departure by +10 mm moves the wheel outward, which can lead to premature tire inner edge wear or ball joint failure. Therefore, before starting work, be sure to consult with a specialist or conduct a computer calculation of the loads.

We will not consider extreme cases (for example, preparing a car for drifting or street racing), but will focus on practical solutions for everyday cars. If your goal is simply to "widen the track" for aesthetics, it may be worth considering alternatives: wheels with a different offset, wider arches or adjustable arms.

What is steering wheel offset and why is it changed?

Steering offset (ET) is the distance between the plane where the disc attaches to the hub and the center axis of the disc. It is measured in millimeters and can be:

• 🔹 Positive (ET30, ET40) - the mounting plane is shifted to the front side of the disk.
• 🔹 Zero (ET0) - the plane coincides with the central axis.
• 🔹 Negative (ET-10, ET-20) - the plane is shifted to the inside.

Factory offset is calculated taking into account:

• 📏 Wheelbase width and wheel alignment.
• 🔧 Loads per wheel bearings and suspension arms.
• 🚗 Car dynamics (cornering stability, braking distance).

The main reasons for changing the departure:

1. Installation of wide wheels - if the disc does not fit under the arch, increase the offset to move the wheel outward.
2. Suspension tuning - for example, after replacing springs or shock absorbers with sports ones.
3. Repair after an accident — if the body geometry is broken, adjustments may be required.
4. Aesthetics - some drivers want to “widen” the track for an aggressive look.

However an increase in the offset by more than 15–20 mm from the factory value requires mandatory checking at the wheel alignment stand and calculation of the loads on the suspension. Otherwise, the risk of breaking the wheel bearing or lever increases by 2-3 times.

Consequences of an incorrect departure: what to expect

Changing the offset without taking into account technical nuances leads to serious problems. Here are the most common consequences:

Problem	Reason	How it manifests itself
Accelerated tire wear	Wheel alignment violation	Uneven tread wear (for example, “eats” the inner edge)
Vibration on the steering wheel	Wheel imbalance or wheel bearing overload	Jittering at speeds above 80–100 km/h
Deterioration in handling	Wheel center of gravity offset	The car “floats” in turns and holds its trajectory worse
Suspension failure	Increased load on arms and ball joints	Knocks, backlashes, rupture of anthers

It is especially dangerous to increase the overhang on the front axle. For example, on cars with McPherson (for example, VW Golf, Toyota Corolla) wheel displacement outward by 20+ mm can lead to the fact that when the steering wheel is turned completely, the wheel will touch the wheel arch liner or shock absorber. On the rear axle the consequences are less critical, but also require attention.

⚠️ Attention: On vehicles with electric power steering (EPS) Incorrect offset can cause errors in the system due to altered torque. For example, on Ford Focus 3 or Hyundai Solaris this manifests itself as a “heavy” steering wheel or a flashing malfunction lamp.

Ways to increase steering reach: pros and cons

There are several methods for adjusting offset. The choice depends on the budget, car model and purpose of the change. Let's consider each option in detail.

1. Spacers for the hub

The most popular and budget method. Spacers are metal rings that are installed between the hub and the disc. They are:

• 🔧 Universal — suitable for most models, but require selection according to thickness.
• 🔧 Individual - are manufactured for a specific car (for example, for BMW E36 or Subaru Impreza).

Benefits:

• ✅ Low price (from 500 to 3000 rubles per set).
• ✅ Quick installation (you can do it yourself in 1-2 hours).
• ✅ Possibility to select thickness in increments 1–2 mm.

Disadvantages:

• ❌ Increase the load on wheel bearings (reduce their resource by 20–30%).
• ❌ May cause vibration if unbalanced.
• ❌ Not all spacers are certified for road use.

Check compatibility with your car model|

Make sure the spacers are made of aluminum or steel (not plastic!)|

Buy extra long bolts or studs (standard ones may not be enough)|

Check for a quality certificate (especially for spacers thicker than 15 mm)

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2. Replacing hubs with adjustable ones

A more reliable, but expensive method. Adjustable hubs (e.g. from H&R or KW) allow you to change the reach in the range ±15 mm without spacers. Suitable for sports cars or cars with modified suspension geometry.

Pros:

• ✅ Fine adjustment of offset without risk of imbalance.
• ✅ Minimum load on bearings (unlike spacers).
• ✅ Possibility of wheel alignment adjustment.

Cons:

• ❌ High price (from 15,000 rubles per set).
• ❌ Difficult installation (requires suspension disassembly).
• ❌ Not for all car models.

3. Using wheels with a different offset

If the goal is simply to “widen” the track, sometimes it is enough to choose wheels with a lower ET. For example, instead of factory ET45 put ET35. This method does not require suspension modifications, but has limitations:

• 🔄 It is necessary to check compatibility with PCD (bolt pattern) and DIA (diameter of the central hole).
• 🔄 The width of the rim must correspond to the width of the tire (otherwise the contact patch will be broken).
• 🔄 There may be problems with brake calipers hitting (especially on cars with large brakes, for example, Audi RS or BMW M).

4. Modification of suspension arms

An extreme method used in motorsport. It involves lengthening or shortening the suspension arms to move the wheel. Requires professional calculations and welding. Only suitable for prepared vehicles (e.g. drag racing or rally).

⚠️ Attention: Any modification to the suspension arms requires mandatory certification for legal use on public roads. In Russia, such changes must be agreed upon with the State Traffic Safety Inspectorate and included in the PTS.

Step-by-step instructions: how to increase the offset using spacers

If you choose spacers, follow these instructions. The work requires accuracy and basic repair skills.

Required tools:

• 🔧 Jack and stops (or lift).
• 🔧 Balloon key.
• 🔧 Torque wrench (for proper tightening of bolts).
• 🔧 Spacers and extended bolts/studs.
• 🔧 Metal brush and WD-40 (for cleaning threads).

Step 1: Preparing the car

Park the car on a level surface, tighten the handbrake and place chocks under the wheels. Raise the car with a jack and remove the wheel. Clean the hub from dirt and rust with a wire brush.

Step 2: Installing the Spacer

Place the spacer on the hub, lining up the holes. Make sure it fits snugly without distortion. If the spacer has a direction (for example, with alignment slots), orient it according to the instructions.

How to check if the spacer is installed correctly

If, after tightening the bolts, the spacer “walks” or does not fit tightly, it means:

1) The surface of the hub is uneven (needs to be turned on a lathe).

2) The spacer does not fit the diameter of the central hole (DIA).

3) The bolts are too short (longer ones are needed).

Step 3: Tighten the Bolts

Install the wheel on the spacer and tighten the bolts criss-cross in 2–3 approaches. Use a torque wrench with the torque specified in your vehicle's repair manual (usually 90–120 Nm).

After installation:

1. Check wheel balancing (if vibration occurs).
2. Go to wheel alignment (required!).
3. Via 500–1000 km check the tightness of the bolts.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Many drivers face problems after changing the departure due to mistakes. Here are the most common of them:

1. Using cheap spacers

Spacers made of low-quality metal (for example, silumin) can crack under load. Buy only certified products from aluminum 6061-T6 or steel. Good brands: H&R, Eibach, SpacerLab.

2. Insufficient bolt length

If the bolts are too short, they will not be fully threaded into the hub threads. This leads to:

• 🔴 Loosening the wheel fastening.
• 🔴 Vibrations at high speeds.
• 🔴 Risk of the wheel coming off.

Rule: the bolt must fit into the hub threads minimum 5–6 turns after the spacer.

3. Ignoring wheel alignment

Even a small change in offset (by 5–10 mm) affects the wheel alignment angles. If you don't do a wheel alignment, the consequences:

• 🚗 The car will “steer” to the side.
• 🚗 The tires will begin to “eat up” on one side.
• 🚗 Fuel consumption will increase (due to increased rolling resistance).

4. Installing spacers on only one axle

If you increase the reach only at the front or only at the rear, it upsets the balance of the car. For example, on front-wheel drive machines (for example, Lada Vesta or Kia Rio) this can lead to excessive steering and the risk of skidding.

⚠️ Attention: On four-wheel drive vehicles (eg Subaru Forester or Mitsubishi Outlander) different offsets on the axles can damage transfer case or differential due to uneven load.

When is it not a good idea to increase the offset?

There are situations when changing the offset is not only impractical, but also dangerous. Avoid this idea if:

• 🚫 Your car is on guarantees — any modifications to the suspension will lead to its loss.
• 🚫 You have electric car or hybrid (for example, Tesla Model 3, Toyota Prius) - changing the load on the hubs can affect the operation of regenerative braking.
• 🚫You are not ready for regular suspension maintenance — spacers and changed offset require more frequent checking of bearings and balls.
• 🚫 Your goal is to simply “play” with the appearance, but you are not prepared for the consequences (deterioration in handling, tire wear).

Alternatives to increasing the reach:

• 🔄 Install disks with greater width (for example, instead of 7J take 8J), but with the same ET.
• 🔄 Use wheel arch extensions (if the problem is touching the body).
• 🔄 Choose tires from low profile sidewall (for example, 225/40 R18 instead of 205/55 R16).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about increasing steering reach

Is it possible to increase the offset by 30 mm without consequences?

No, this is critically high for most passenger cars. Maximum safe increase - 15–20 mm (and then only subject to the installation of adjustable levers or hubs). When +30 mm:

• 🔴 The load on the wheel bearings will increase by 2-3 times.
• 🔴 The tires will rub against the fender liners when the steering wheel is turned completely.
• 🔴 Controllability at high speeds will worsen.

Such changes require a complete redesign of the suspension (for example, like on racing cars).

Do I need to register a change in departure with the traffic police?

In Russia, any changes in suspension designs (including wheel offset) must be agreed with the traffic police. To do this you need:

1. Pass examination in an accredited laboratory.
2. Get safety report.
3. Make changes to PTS.

Without this, the car will not pass inspection, and in the event of an accident, the insurance company may refuse to pay.

How to check if the wheel is touching the suspension after changing the offset?

Do the following:

1. Turn the steering wheel all the way left and right.
2. Spin the wheel manually, listening for extraneous sounds.
3. Drive along rough road (eg speed bump) and listen for knocking noises.
4. Inspect the inside of the arch for abrasions.

If you can hear squeaks or knocks, which means the wheel is touching. In this case, you need to reduce the offset or install thinner spacers.

Can spacers be used on winter tires?

Technically yes, but this not recommended. Winter tires already experience increased stress due to low temperatures and aggressive driving styles. Additional outward displacement of the wheel will increase:

• ❄️ Risk aquaplaning (due to a change in the contact patch).
• ❄️ Wear tire inner edge.
• ❄️ Load on wheel bearings (which is critical in winter).

If you cannot do without spacers, choose the minimum thickness (5–10 mm) and check the condition of the suspension more often.

What offset is considered safe for tuning?

Safe limits depend on the type of suspension:

Suspension type	Maximum offset change	Notes
McPherson (front axle)	+10...+15 mm	More - risk of hitting the caliper
Multi-link (rear axle)	+15...+20 mm	Less load on bearings
Pneumatic/adjustable	+20 mm (adjustable)	Requires computer calculation

For an accurate calculation, use departure calculators (for example, on the website WillTheyFit) or contact a tuning studio.