The question of how to remove the brake on rollers often arises among riders who have already mastered the basic technique of skating and moved on to more complex elements. Standard. Friday brakeA sled installed in a factory can interfere with parallel turns, plow braking or aggressive skateboarding in a skate park. Many beginners are afraid to start dismantling, fearing damage to the frame or disrupt the balancing of the roller, but this process is quite within everyoneβs power.
Removing the stopper is not just a mechanical action, but an important stage in the transition to a new level of skating, requiring an understanding of the design of your equipment. Most modern models use the system. Quick Remove Or a standard bolt mount, which greatly simplifies the task. Before starting work, you need to prepare a minimum set of tools and clean the working surface of dust and dirt so that small details are not lost.
It is important to understand that after removing the standard brake, you will have to learn to stop again using other techniques such as T-stop or slide. The lack of the usual heel accent changes the center of gravity and requires more concentration in the first weeks of riding. Letβs break down all the design nuances and step-by-step process of removing an element so you can do it safely and efficiently.
The Anatomy of the Roller Brake: What It Is Made Of
Before you pick up the tools, you need to understand in detail the mechanism that you plan to dismantle. Standard brake assembly consists of several key components: plastic housing-holder, the most brake-pad (usually made of rubber or polyurethane) and a fastening bolt or screw. Understanding the function of each part will help avoid errors when building or replacing components.
The brake body is attached to the roller frame, most often to the last or penultimate wheel, and has a movable or fixed design. Inside the housing may be a metal insert, which strengthens the structure and prevents rapid wear of plastic when friction. Some models are equipped with a height adjustment system that allows you to change the angle of inclination of the shoe as it is erased.
Types of braking systems
There are two main types: a fixed brake that is rigidly fixed to the frame, and a floating one that has a small backlash for softer contact with the road. Floating systems are less common and are common for certain brands, such as some Rollerblade models.
The fastener is a long bolt passing through the frame and the body of the brake, or a system of studs. It is this element that experiences the maximum vibrational during skating, so it often sours or, conversely, requires regular lifting. In expensive models, an additional washer-grover can be used to prevent spontaneous unwinding.
Tools and workplace preparation required
To successfully complete the task, you will need a minimum set of tools, which is usually included in the roller delivery or available in any household. The main instrument is hexagonal (allen), the size of which is most often 4 mm or 5 mm, depending on the manufacturer of the rollers. A cross screwdriver may also be required if the mounting is made with screws under the slits.
It is recommended to prepare a small container for folding bolts and washers, as these small details have an unpleasant property of rolling at the most inopportune moment. If you plan not just to remove the brake, but also to preserve the hole in the frame, you may need a stub or a piece of insulating tape. Clean rags will be useful for cleaning the frame from dirt accumulated around the fastening assembly.
βοΈ Preparations for dismantling
Particular attention should be paid to the state of the thread of the fastening bolt. If you notice signs of corrosion or rust, treat the connection with penetrating lubricant in advance, for example, WD-40, and leave it for 10-15 minutes. This will greatly facilitate the unscrewing process and reduce the risk of licking the bolt faces or damage to the thread in the aluminum frame.
Step-by-step instructions: how to remove the brake on rollers
The dismantling process depends on the type of mount installed on your roller model, but the overall algorithm of actions remains similar. First, you need to securely fix the roller so that it does not scroll in your hands. To do this, you can put it vertically, resting between the legs, or put it on a stable surface, holding it with your hand.
If you have a classic mounting system, find the bolt head, which is usually located on the inside of the frame or on top. Insert the key and start twisting the bolt counterclockwise. Do not make excessive efforts in a jerk, it is better to act smoothly and with constant pressure. After the bolt is removed, carefully remove the plastic body of the brake together with the shoe.
β οΈ Warning: When removing the brake, make sure that remote washers or bushings that can be installed between the frame and the body of the brake for centering do not fly out with it. The loss of these elements can lead to distortion of the wheel axis during further operation.
In the case of the system Quick RemoveThe process is even simpler: usually enough to turn a special lever or press the lock and pull the brake module up. However, such systems are less common and are characteristic of certain roller lines. After removal, be sure to check the hole in the frame for the presence of sharp edges that could have formed during operation.
The main task during dismantling is not to lose the remote washers and to preserve the integrity of the thread in the frame, so that, if necessary, it is possible to return the brake back.
What to do with the freed hole in the frame
After you managed to remove the brake on the rollers, you will be faced with the question: what to do with the hole formed? It is not recommended to leave it open, as sand, water and small debris will be stuffed there, which can lead to corrosion of the inside of the frame or jamming of the wheel axis. In addition, a protruding bolt or an empty hole can cling to clothing.
The easiest and most effective way is to install a special plug, which often comes complete with new rollers. If there is no plug, you can use a short bolt of the same thread, pre-lubricating its thread with a consistent lubricant. This will prevent moisture from getting in and keep the thread in working condition for many years.
Some riders prefer to seal the hole with reinforced tape or tape, however, this is a temporary solution that requires regular inspection. In a professional environment, it is considered correct to use a metal or plastic plug that is screwed or inserted into the hole, ensuring tightness and aesthetic appearance.
If you do not have a factory plug, select a bolt slightly less than the thickness of the frame so that it does not rest on the inner wall and does not deform the profile when twisting.
Setup and maintenance of bearings after removal
Often the desire to remove the brake is associated with the desire to improve roller coasting, but it is worth remembering that the main contribution to speed is made by the very same. bearing. After dismantling the brake assembly, it is recommended to check the condition of the wheels and bearings, since the lack of braking can reveal problems that were previously masked. Dirt and dust that fell under the brakes could adversely affect the lubrication.
If you notice that the wheels are getting worse or there is a noise, it may be time to clean and lubricate the bearings. To do this, you will need to remove the wheels, remove the bearings and wash them with a special cleaner or gasoline "Kalosha". After drying, you need to apply a new lubricant designed for high speeds.
| Type of service | Frequency | Materials required | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| External cleaning | After each trip | Dry cloth, brush. | Low. |
| Lubricant without removal | Once a month | Liquid lubricant, syringe | Low. |
| Complete cleaning. | Once a season | Cleaner, thick lubricant. | Medium |
| Bearing replacement | By wear (1-2 years) | New bearing kit | Tall. |
High-quality class bearings ABEC-5 or ABEC-7 provide smooth and fast acceleration, which is especially important when riding without brakes. Donβt forget to check the tightening of the wheel axles regularly, as vibration when driving actively can weaken the mounts.
Stopping techniques without standard brake
Once you have removed the brakes on the rollers, it is critical to learn alternative stopping methods to ensure your safety on the road. The most popular and reliable technique is T-stop. (T-stop), in which one leg is placed across the other, and the inner edge of the rear leg wheel brakes against the surface. This technique requires good balancing and is trained at low speeds.
Another effective method is braking with a plow, when the socks of the legs are reduced inwards, and the heels are diluted to the sides, creating friction with the internal wheels. This method works well at low speeds and allows you to smoothly drop speed. For more advanced riders, the slide method is available, which requires special training and even coverage.
β οΈ Attention: The first few exits after removing the brakes are carried out on safe, flat areas without gradient and traffic. The absence of the usual stopper can be disorienting in an emergency.
Do not neglect protective equipment, especially knee pads and elbow pads, as the risk of falling when learning new stopping techniques increases. Regular practice will allow you to bring braking skills to automaticity, and you will stop missing the standard brake.
Frequent errors in dismantling and operation
One of the most common mistakes is to lose the fastener bolt immediately after removal. Ryders often put it on a bench or in a pocket where it is safely lost. To avoid this, immediately after unscrewing, screw the bolt back into the brake body or into the frame (if a plug is planned), so that it does not go anywhere.
Another mistake is ignoring the state of the hole in the frame. Left unattended, it becomes a magnet for dirt, which eventually turns into an abrasive paste that corrodes metal. Even if you do not plan to return the brake, take care of sealing the hole.
Some users try to cut the brakes with a Bulgarian or hacksaw, which is strictly forbidden to do with aluminum frames. This violates the integrity of the structure, creates stress points and can lead to breakage of the frame when jumping or heavy load. Use only the standard methods of dismantling provided by the manufacturer.
The myth of speed
There is a myth that removing the brake significantly increases the maximum speed. In fact, air resistance and wheel friction play a much bigger role than the weight and aerodynamics of a small plastic brake.
Remember that equipment modification is a responsible step that requires understanding the consequences. Properly executed dismantling and subsequent training in new skills will make skating more comfortable and safe.
Do I need to remove the brakes from both rollers?
Yes, if you decide to abandon the standard brake, it must be removed from both rollers for symmetry and proper weight distribution. The presence of a brake on only one leg can upset the balance when performing technical elements.
Can I put the brake back in after a while?
Of course, if you have kept all the parts and fasteners. The installation process takes a couple of minutes and only requires the bolt to twist in reverse order. The main thing is not to lose the original washers and bushings.
Does removing the brake affect the guarantee?
By itself, dismantling a removable element should not void the warranty unless you damage the frame in the process. However, if you tear the thread or break the mount when removing, the warranty case may not be recognized.
What weight is lost when the brake is removed?
The weight of one brake module is on average from 40 to 60 grams. In total, with two rollers you will save about 100 grams, which is almost imperceptible when skating, but important for professional athletes.
What to do if the brake bolt does not unwind?
Do not use excessive force. Treat the connection with penetrating lubricant, wait 15 minutes and try again. If it doesnβt work, use a longer key to increase the lever, but act carefully so as not to break the edges.