The need to remove the grid from the column most often occurs in two cases: when you want to replace a torn speaker or repair a torn wire, or when the protective grill is hopelessly spoiled and requires replacement with a new one. Owners of acoustic systems often face a dilemma: start picking fasteners or leave everything as it is, for fear of breaking fragile latches. Wrong actions can result in chipping on the body or damage to the speaker itself, which will turn minor repairs into an expensive replacement for the entire column.
Modern acoustics are designed with an eye for aesthetics, so manufacturers often hide the mounts, making them invisible to the eye. This creates the illusion of monolithic design, but with a competent approach to any cleat You can dismantle it. The key here is to understand the type of mounting that was used in the assembly of a particular device. In this article, we will discuss the basic fixation methods and safe removal algorithms.
Before any work begins, a workplace must be prepared. You will need a smooth, soft surface covered with a towel or foam so that the accidentally fallen column does not get damaged. It is also important to determine the model of your acoustics in advance, since the choice of instruments and disassembly methods will depend on this. Ignoring the preparatory stage often leads to the loss of small screws or scratches on the front panel.
Determination of the type of protective grill fastening
The first step should always be a thorough visual diagnosis. Manufacturers use three main methods of fixing the mesh: mechanical (screws or screws), plastic (latches) and adhesive (for embedded or budget acoustics). If you see holes under the slits, you are lucky – this is the most predictable option. However, often the holes are hidden under decorative plugs or located on the back of the case.
In the absence of visible screws, most likely, the system is used. push-fit (latches) Such grills are kept due to the elasticity of the plastic around the perimeter of the column. Removing such elements requires accuracy and a special tool so as not to leave a dent on the body. Sometimes latches are combined with adhesive layer, especially in waterproof models of portable speakers.
⚠️ Warning: If you feel strong resistance when trying to tamper with the net, do not put too much effort into it. You probably missed a hidden screw or the glue hasn’t warmed up yet, and a sharp jerk will break the plastic ears of the mount.
For an accurate determination of the type of fastening, it is useful to find service documentation or disassembly (teardown) your model on the Internet. Often, enthusiasts have already disassembled your model and posted photos of hidden bolts. If there is no such information, act by exclusion: look for screws, check the perimeter for gaps and assess the density of the mesh to the case.
Necessary tools for safe dismantling
The quality of the work performed depends on the toolkit used. The use of knives or screwdrivers with a wide sting often leads to damage to the paintwork and deformation of the edges of the mesh. For a professional result, you will need a set of specialized tools that minimize risks.
The main tool for working with latches are plastic mounting blades. They don’t conduct current and, more importantly, don’t scratch plastic. Metal tools should be used only for twisting screws, but not for tweaking the elements of the body. You will also need a set of screwdrivers of various sizes, including cross and flat.
- 🛠️ A set of plastic mediators or blades for opening the case of electronics.
- 🔧 Precise screwdrivers (PH0, PH00, SL1.5) for working with small fastening fittings.
- 🌡️ A hair dryer or heat gun (required for adhesive joints).
- 🧲 Magnetic holder or tweezers for extracting small screws from deep wells.
Special attention should be paid to heating devices. If the mesh is glued, cold dismantling is impossible without the destruction of the mesh or housing. A regular household hair dryer is suitable for softening most adhesive bases. The use of open fire is strictly prohibited, as it can be melted. polymeric or damage the diffuser speaker, located just behind the grill.
☑️ Tool preparation
Dismantling of nets on screw connection
The most straightforward method of removal, which is found in old and professional acoustics. The screws can be located at the corners of the grille, in the center or hidden under the brand logo. Before you spin, make sure you pick up the screwdriver exactly the size of the splint, otherwise you risk ripping the screw cap, which will turn a simple process into a long drill.
After unscrewing all visible fasteners, the net may not be removed immediately. Sometimes it is additionally fixed with guide pins. In this case, you need to carefully pull the grill on yourself, slightly swaying it from side to side. The main thing is not to skew the plane of removal, so as not to break the plastic guides.
| Type of screw | Location. | Tool. | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Self-inflicted | Perimeter. | Cross screwdriver | Often hidden under a sticker |
| Hidden-head screw | In the deeps | Screwdriver PH0/PH1 | Requires the exact size of the sting |
| Spetspin (Torx) | Rarely, inside. | Star T6-T10 | Used in protected equipment |
If the screws are oxidized and do not unscrew, you can drop a little penetrating lubricant (for example, WD-40) on the thread, but you need to do this extremely carefully so that the liquid does not fall on the paper suspension speaker. Paper diffuser It instantly absorbs oil and loses its acoustic properties, starting to wheez. It is better to use isopropyl alcohol to clean the thread.
Removing the grill on plastic latches
This type of mounting is most common in modern consumer electronics. The grid is held by a lot of plastic tongues around the perimeter. The main mistake of beginners is trying to squeeze one or two latches and pull the net. This is guaranteed to break down the plastic. You need to act consistently, snapping the fasteners in a circle.
Start by inserting a plastic blade into the gap between the case and the mesh. It is usually best to start from the bottom corner. Carefully press to bend the retainer, and without removing the shoulder blade, insert the second side, moving along the side. When one party is released, you can move on to the next.
⚠️ Warning: Plastic on older columns becomes brittle with time and temperature changes. Before active exposure, it is recommended to slightly warm the perimeter of the mesh with a hairdryer to a temperature of 40-50 degrees to increase the elasticity of the fasteners ears.
In some models, for example, in popular JBL Flip or Sony XBThe mesh can be pulled over a metal frame, which in turn is snapped onto the body. It is important not to damage the fabric of the mesh with the tool. Movements should be directed strictly from the center to the edges or vice versa, depending on the design of the latches.
What to do if the latch breaks?
If the plastic ear breaks off, do not rush to throw the column. You can use superglue with an activator to fix the debris in place, or drill a micro hole and fix the mesh with a thin line or nylon screed from the inside. In a pinch, 3M VHB double-sided tape will help fix the grill if it does not carry a power load.
Working with glue joints and tension mesh
The most complex case, often found in portable moisture-proof acoustics. Here, the grid can be glued around the entire perimeter or even completely cover the front panel, being part of the housing. Heat is required to dismantle. Heat the perimeter evenly, without holding the hair dryer at one point for longer than 5-10 seconds, so as not to deform the plastic.
After warming up, carefully enter a thin plastic card or spatula under the edge of the mesh. Move slowly, cutting the adhesive layer with translational movements. If the mesh is stretched on a frame (like a membrane), its removal often involves a single procedure, since it is almost impossible to re-tighten the fabric with the same acoustic density at home.
A critical point is to protect the speaker from getting glue and debris during removal. If you use solvents to remove glue residues, be sure to close the speaker diffuser with cardboard or film. Pairs of solvent or adhesive drops can permanently spoil the sound.
- 🔥 Keep the perimeter warm evenly, avoiding local overheating.
- 🧩 Use thin blades to cut the glue layer.
- 🧹 Clean the glue residues with alcohol or a special remover.
If the grid is made in the form of a "stocking", which is stretched on the column, it should be removed, starting from the edges, gradually tightening the material. Often under such a grid hidden additional screws. Be careful with the sharp edges of metal parts under the mesh so as not to tear the fabric if you plan to use it again.
To remove sticky traces of glue, use isopropyl alcohol or citrus oil. Apply the product to a cotton swab, and not directly on the body, so that the liquid does not leak into the acoustic system.
Assembly and installation of the grid back
After the necessary repairs, the stage of reverse installation begins. If you have used screws, make sure they are screwed in evenly and do not tear the thread. Plastic latches when re-installed may sit less tightly. In this case, you can apply a micro dose of glue to the base of the latch or use a thin strip of double-sided tape.
When installing a glue mesh, it is important to observe the centering. Try on the net first without removing the protective film from the scotch (if it is new) or simply putting it in place. Make sure that the logos and the holes for the indicators are the same. Then, starting on one side, gently press the net, expelling air from under it.
The final check includes a visual inspection for the absence of gaps and test inclusion. Make sure that when working at medium volume, the mesh does not rattle or vibrate. If there was a foreign sound, perhaps you did not twist the screw well or the latch did not fully fall into place.
⚠️ Warning: Do not turn the column on at full power immediately after assembly. Allow the glue (if used) to be polymerized within 12-24 hours. Early loading can lead to detachment of the mesh or change in the geometry of the housing.
High-quality grid installation is not only aesthetics, but also protection of internal components from dust, which directly affects the life of the speaker.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use a column without a grid?
Technically, yes, the speaker will work. However, the lack of a grid leaves the diffuser speaker without protection from dust, fingers and foreign objects. Even a slight touch of the working speaker with your finger can lead to damage or characteristic wheezing. In addition, the grid often acts as an acoustic lens that forms a diagram of the direction of sound.
How to replace a broken grid if there is no original?
As a substitute, you can use acoustic fabric (acoustic foam), metal mesh from mosquito windows (if the cells are small enough and do not affect the HF) or order a universal grill of the desired diameter on marketplaces. It is important that the material transmits at least 70-80% of the sound wave.
Why did the column sound quieter after the grid was removed?
This may be due to the fact that during disassembly you could damage the wires going to the speaker, or break the tightness of the phase inverter. Also check if your contacts are stuck. If the sound became deaf, it is possible that the garbage that you shook off when removing the grid got inside the speaker.
How to remove the net if there are no special tools?
In extreme cases, you can use a thin credit card (for latches) or a paper knife with very caution (wrapping the blade with tape, leaving only 2 mm of cutting edge). However, the risk of damage to the body when using improvised means increases significantly. It is better to wait for the purchase of a set of shoulder blades.