A situation where you need to remove the disk from the car can take even an experienced driver by surprise. Most often we are talking about a banal replacement of a broken tire on the road or a planned replacement of brake discs in the garage. In both cases, knowing the right algorithm will save your time, nerves, and possibly the integrity of the fasteners.
The procedure of dismantling the wheel assembly seems trivial only at first glance. In practice, motorists are faced with sour bolts, lack of necessary tools or specific design features. model car. Incorrect actions can lead to damage to the thread of the hub or injuries.
In this article, we will discuss the whole process in detail: from tool preparation to the final removal of the brake disc itself. You will learn how to act if the bolts do not unscrew, and what safety measures are critically important to follow when lifting a car with a jack.
Preparation of the workplace and the necessary tool
Safe conditions must be ensured before starting work. If you are on the side of the road, choose a flat area with a hard surface. The use of a jack on loose ground or slope is strictly prohibited - this can lead to the fall of the machine.
To complete the task, you will need a basic set of tools. Make sure you have a serviceable jack, a balloon key of the appropriate size and, preferably, a collar to increase the effort. When replacing the brake discs, the list will expand.
- 🛠️ Balloon key or clutter with a head for the size of bolts (usually 17, 19 or 21 mm)
- 🚗 jack (regular or hydraulic, depending on conditions)
- 🔨 Hammer and penetrating lubricant (WD-40 or analogues) for acidic compounds
- 🧤 Gloves and rags to protect hands from dirt and brake dust
Pay special attention to the state of the instruments. The broken edges on the key can lead to the fact that you will not be able to unscrew the bolt at a critical moment. If you plan to work with the brake system, you will also need keys for the caliper and fluid for cleaning the brakes.
⚠️ Warning: Never rely on a jack alone when working under a car. If possible, use safety stops or place a removed wheel under the threshold to minimize the consequences of a possible fall.
The correct algorithm for removing the wheel from the car
The first step is always to loosen the wheel bolts or nuts. This should be done while the car is on the ground, as the wheel will turn around in suspension and you will not be able to create enough force.
Use your body weight by pressing the key to rip the fastener off the spot. If the bolts are tightened too much, you can carefully use the extension cord, but avoid sharp jerks that can damage the thread. After weakening all bolts, you can start lifting the machine.
Install the jack strictly in the body points specially designed for this point. They are usually marked by cutouts in the threshold or special areas. Lift the car until the wheel is completely off the surface.
☑️ Check before lifting
Now you can completely unscrew the bolts and remove the wheel. It is recommended to immediately put the removed wheel flat under the threshold of the car next to the jack - this will create an additional level of security.
What to do if the wheel bolts are acidified
One of the most common problems is the inability to unscrew bolts due to corrosion and dirt. Attempts to disrupt them by force often lead to licking of the faces or break the key. In such cases, patience and proper chemistry are required.
Profusely treat the connections with penetrating lubricant and give it time to act - at least 10-15 minutes. You can slightly tap the bolt head with a hammer (not on the edge!) so that the vibration helps the composition penetrate deeper into the thread.
If the lubricant doesn’t help, try heating the bolt with a building hair dryer or gas burner. The metal will expand and break down the rust, but be careful not to damage the paint coating of the disc and not melt the plastic caps.
Sometimes the “swinging” method helps: try to twist the bolt slightly, and then twist it, repeating this movement with a little effort. This helps break down the oxides inside the threaded joint.
⚠️ Warning: Do not use open flames near fuel lines, plastic suspension elements or rubber hoses. Overheating of the hub bearing can also put it out of action.
In extreme cases, when nothing helps, you have to drill a bolt or use a special detacher, but this already requires qualification and special tools.
Dismantling the brake disc: step-by-step instructions
After removal of the wheel, access to the brake mechanism is opened. To take it off myself brakeThe caliphate must be removed first. This is a responsible operation that requires care.
Unscrew the calipers or braces mounting bolts. Do not let the caliper hang on the brake hose - this can damage the internal elements of the hydroline. Hang the unit on a wire or hook to the suspension elements.
Now we need to take the pads off. If they are attached to the guides, they can be gently knocked out with a hammer through a wooden pad. Then unscrew the locking screw of the disk (if any) or just remove the disk from the studs.
Often the disc sticks to the hub due to oxidation of the contact surface. In this case, abundantly apply penetrating lubricant into the gap between the disc and the hub on the reverse side. Tap the hammer on the working surface of the disc (between the ventilation channels) in a circle.
| Type of attachment | Tool. | Nuances withdrawals |
|---|---|---|
| A screw under the sweat | Torx screwdriver or hexagon | Often the slits break, you need a quality tool. |
| Stilettos. | Hammer, filmmaker | It takes effort to break the rust on the hub |
| Cone landing | The renter, the heat. | It is found on some models of Ford and Volvo. |
If the disc is not removed by hands, use the mount, creating a lever, but rest not on the disk itself, but on special technological holes or use a removable.
Cleaning the hub and installing a new disk
Successful installation of a new disk directly depends on the quality of the preparation of the landing site. Any rust or dirt on the surface of the hub will lead to the beating of the disc during braking and uneven wear of the pads.
Carefully clean the landing plane of the hub with a metal brush. If there is severe corrosion, use a grinding nozzle on a drill or file until pure metal appears. The surface should be perfectly smooth.
Should I lubricate the hub?
Lubricate the landing plane of the hub and the back of the new disc with a thin layer of copper or ceramic lubricant is necessary. This will prevent the disc from boiling in the future and facilitate the next replacement. However, the lubricant should not fall on the working surface of the brake disc or pad!
When installing a new disc, make sure it fits tightly to the hub all around the circle. There should be no gaps. Twirl the locking screw (if provided by the design) and install the caliper in place.
Do not forget to press the caliper piston before assembly. For rear discs with manual brake type "screw in piston" may require a special tool or a neat screwing with simultaneous pressure.
⚠️ Warning: Before starting the movement, press the brake pedal several times until it is solid. This is necessary for the pads to press against the disk. First time brake very carefully!
Common mistakes and security measures
Many motorists neglect the moment of tightening wheel bolts, twisting them "by eye". That's a gross mistake. Insufficient moment will lead to spontaneous unwinding, and excessive - to deformation of the disk or damage to the thread.
Use the dynamometer key for the final tightening. The puff moment values for your car can be found in the operating manual. They are usually in the range of 90 to 120 Nm.
- 🚫 Do not lubricate the thread of wheel bolts with oil or solidol - this will change the friction coefficient and lead to improper tightening.
- 🚫 Do not use the impact screw for the final tightening without control of the moment - it is easy to exceed the permissible norms.
- 🚫 Do not leave your car on the jack without supervision and without additional insurance.
After the first 50-100 km run, be sure to check the tightening of the bolts again. New details can be “settled” a little, and control will not be superfluous.
High-quality cleaning of the hub and the right moment of tightening is the guarantee that the brake disc will not "beat" during braking, and the wheel will not unscrew on the go.
Compliance with these simple rules will allow you to independently and safely replace the disk, saving money on the services of the service station.
Can I drive if the brake disc has rust?
A small rust plaque on the working surface is permissible if it is evenly distributed. He will wear off after a few active braking. However, deep corrosion, sinks or a change in the thickness of the disc require a mandatory replacement, as this reduces the effectiveness of braking.
Do I need to change the brake discs in a pair?
Yes, on one axis (front or rear) discs always change pair. Replacing only one side will lead to uneven braking and driving the car away at an emergency stop, which is life-threatening.
How do you know if it’s time to change the brakes?
The main signs: vibration of the steering wheel or brake pedal during braking, whistle or grinding, as well as visual inspection. If the thickness of the disk is less than the minimum permissible (indicated on the disk itself) or there are deep furrows, a replacement is required.
Why can't you lubricate the caliper bolts with a regular lubricant?
Conventional lubricants do not withstand high temperatures of the brake system and can burn out or leak. For the guide calipers and backslides, only special high-temperature lubricants are used, often based on copper or ceramics.