Working with elastic materials often causes trepidation among beginning craftswomen, especially if there is no specialized equipment in their arsenal. However, modern technology Janome allows you to create professional products from jersey, footer and coolers using only a basic set of functions. The main secret of success is not the presence of an overlocker, but a correct understanding of the mechanics of thread passage through a stretchable fabric and proper preparation of the workplace.
Many people mistakenly believe that a standard straight stitch will do the job, but this results in the seams tearing during the first wear. Knitwear requires a special approach, since its loops must stretch with the fabric and not burst under tension. In this guide, we'll walk you through all the ins and outs of setting up your machine so you can forget about buying additional equipment.
You'll learn which needles will save your projects from snags, how to modify your presser foot for perfect feed, and why adjusting your presser foot pressure is more important than choosing thread color. Let's turn your regular sewing machine into a versatile tool for working with any knitwear.
Preparation of the workplace and selection of needles
The first step to a quality seam is to replace the needle. Standard needles with a sharp tip, designed for cotton or linen, simply tear the fibers of knitwear, leaving unsightly punctures and causing puffs. You need to purchase special needles with a rounded tip, which are labeled as Jersey or Stretch. They do not pierce the fabric, but push the threads of the fabric apart, passing between them.
The needle size is selected depending on the density of your material. For fine knits such as rayon jersey or lightweight cotton, use size 70 or 75 needles. Heavier fabrics, such as brushed sweatshirt or heavy culotte, require size 80 or 90 needles. If you are working with very stretchy fabrics containing a high percentage of lycra or spandex, it is best to choose a needle with the mark Stretch, which has a deeper notch to prevent skipped stitches.
⚠️ Attention: Never use an old or dull knitting needle. Even a microscopic burr on the tip will lead to the appearance of “arrows” on the finished product that cannot be removed.
After installing a new needle, be sure to check its position. It must be inserted all the way into the needle holder and securely secured with a screw. The rotation of the needle is also important: the flat side of the shank should face backward (or in the direction indicated in the instructions for your model Janome).
Replace the needle after every large project or every 8 to 10 hours of work, as knit fabrics dull the point more quickly than thick cotton.
Setting up a Janome sewing machine for stretch fabrics
Before making the first stitch, it is necessary to make a number of adjustments in the machine mechanism. The key parameter here is upper thread tension. For knits, it usually needs to be loosened by setting the dial to a lower setting, often in the range of 2 to 4. This will allow the bobbin thread to not pull the seam, leaving it flat and elastic.
The stitch length also requires adjustment. A step that is too short (less than 2 mm) can lead to corrugation of the seam, and a step that is too long can lead to its weakness. The optimal value for most knitted fabrics is the range 2.5–3.0 mm. On some models Janome You can also adjust the presser foot pressure on the fabric. For knitted fabrics, the pressure should be reduced so that the fabric does not stretch under the foot while sewing.
Don't forget to check the quality of the threads. It is best to use polyester threads, which have their own elasticity. Cotton threads may break when the product is stretched. If you are using bobbin thread, you can wind it a little looser than usual, which will also add flexibility to the seam.
After all the settings, be sure to make a test seam on a piece of the same fabric, folding it in two layers. Pull the seam in different directions: if it does not burst and does not pull the fabric, you have done everything correctly.
Choosing the right stitch: from zigzag to imitation overlock
The most common mistake is trying to sew knitwear with a regular straight stitch. It doesn't stretch, so when you put the thing on, the thread will simply burst. By car Janome There are several excellent alternatives. The simplest and most accessible is narrow zigzag. Set the zigzag width to 1.5–2.0 mm, and leave the step length at about 2.5 mm. This stitch will stretch along with the fabric.
A more advanced option is the three-stitch zigzag stitch (often called the knit stitch or stretch stitch). The machine sews two forward stitches and one back stitch, creating a very strong and stretchy seam that is ideal for shoulder seams or neckline finishing. On your control panel Janome it may be indicated by a symbol that resembles a lightning bolt or a dotted line.
If your model is equipped with elastic straight stitch (stretch straight stitch), feel free to use it to sew side seams. It looks like a regular straight but has a micro step back for reinforcement, allowing the seam to stretch. For decorative trims or hems, a twin needle is ideal, creating two parallel straight stitches at the top and a zigzag at the bottom.
☑️ Check before sewing
Experiment with stitch widths and lengths on scraps to find the perfect combination for the specific fabric you're using right now.
Sewing technique: working with the foot and feed direction
The process of sewing knitwear on a conventional machine requires a certain skill from the operator. The main rule is not to stretch the fabric with your hands, either in front of or behind the presser foot. The fabric should be fed evenly, solely due to the advancement of the rack. If you pull the material, the seam will turn out wavy, and after washing the product may warp.
To make it easier for the fabric to pass under the foot, many craftswomen use a special foot for knitwear with a plastic sole (often labeled as Non-Stick or just has a plastic coating). It glides over the fabric without pressing or deforming it. If you don’t have such a foot, you can place a strip of thin paper (tracing paper or regular office paper) under the fabric, which can then be easily removed. Gluing a strip of masking tape to the bottom of a regular metal foot also helps.
| Operation type | Recommended stitch | Width (mm) | Length (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stitching parts | Narrow zigzag | 1.5 - 2.0 | 2.5 - 3.0 |
| Finishing the edge (instead of overlocking) | Wide zigzag | 4.0 - 5.0 | 2.0 - 2.5 |
| Sewing elastic bands | Three-stitch zigzag | 2.0 - 3.0 | 2.5 |
| Bottom hem | Double needle | - | 3.0 - 4.0 |
When making a seam, make sure that the fabric lays evenly. If you see the fabric bunching up under your foot, reduce the presser foot pressure or try holding the fabric slightly taut (but not stretched!) on either side of the needle to help it straighten out.
What to do if the fabric still gets stuck?
If the knitwear is pulled into the needle hole, place a layer of thin paper (tracing paper) under the fabric and sew directly over it. After completing the seam, the paper can be easily torn off. This is especially true for very thin and slippery fabrics such as viscose jersey.
Processing cuts without overlock: methods and techniques
The absence of an overlocker does not mean that the edges of the product should remain raw or look artisanal. There are several effective ways to process sections on a conventional machine. Janome. The simplest method is to use a wide zigzag. Set the width so that the needle, when moving to the left, hits exactly the edge of the fabric, covering the cut threads, and when moving to the right, it pierces the fabric a few millimeters from the edge.
A more aesthetic option is to use the overlock stitch (if your model has it). It combines elements of zigzag and straight stitching to create a tight beaded edge that prevents fraying and looks very industrially finished. To enhance the effect, you can use special threads for overlocking, threading them into the upper thread guide, bypassing the eye of the needle (if the design of the machine allows), or simply use dense bobbin threads.
⚠️ Attention: When sewing zigzag cuts, make sure that the needle does not go too far beyond the edge of the fabric, otherwise you will damage the machine blade or break the needle. Move the fabric smoothly, turning it at the edge to get around the corners.
Another professional trick is to use bias tape. You can edge the sections of knitwear with bias tape, cut from the same fabric or a contrasting one. This will not only strengthen the edge, but also give the product a designer look. The stitching of the binding is also done using a narrow zigzag or a special elastic stitch.
High-quality processing of cuts with a zigzag or pseudo-overlock makes the product wear-resistant and prevents the edges from curling after washing.
Solving typical problems when sewing knitwear
Even experienced seamstresses sometimes encounter difficulties when working with elastic materials. One of the most common problems is skipping stitches. If the needle "slips" and does not catch the bobbin thread, try replacing the needle with a thinner one or changing the type to Stretch. It may also be caused by sewing too fast: slow down and turn the handwheel by hand in difficult places.
If the seam turns out to be wavy (“faldit”), this means that the fabric was stretched during the sewing process. Try reducing the presser foot pressure, placing paper under the fabric, or using a Teflon-coated foot. Also, waviness can occur when the upper thread tension is too strong - loosen the adjuster.
It happens that the underside of the seam is gathered into an accordion. This is a sure sign that the upper thread is too tight or the presser foot is pressing too hard. Adjust these settings down. If the thread keeps breaking, check to see if the bobbin is wound too tightly and if there are burrs on the needle or needle hole.
If the knitwear stretches a lot and “slides” under the foot, try lightly powdering the seam area with talcum powder or starch spray - this will temporarily stabilize the fabric.
Remember that every car Janome has its own characteristics, and finding the ideal settings may require several trial samples. Don't be afraid to experiment with scraps before cutting out the main piece.
Is it possible to sew knitwear on a regular machine without special feet?
Yes, you can. Although special feet (Teflon, for knitwear, walking) greatly facilitate the process, their absence is not an obstacle. Use the method of placing paper under the fabric or applying tape to the sole of a regular foot. The main thing is to choose the right needle and stitch.
Which stitch is the best replacement for an overlock stitch?
On Janome machines, a better substitute is the stretch zigzag stitch or the three-stitch zigzag stitch. They provide the necessary strength and stretchability of the seam. If there are none, use a regular narrow zigzag with a step length of 2.5 mm.
Why does the needle break when sewing knitwear?
The needle can break due to moving the fabric too quickly by hand (you pull and the machine pulls faster), using a dull or improperly placed needle, or hitting a thick seam or pin. Always remove pins before pressing foot and do not force the fabric to move.
Do I need to change threads for knitwear?
It is advisable to use polyester threads, as they are more elastic than cotton and are less likely to break when the seam is stretched. However, high-quality cotton threads are also suitable for home use if the tension is adjusted correctly.
How to avoid neck stretching during processing?
To finish the neckline, use a special braid or cut out a facing from the same fabric. When sewing, lightly pull the facing/braid so that when it straightens out, it does not allow the neckline to stretch. Using a stabilizer (non-woven fabric) under the seam also helps.