When refitting a car during the season, many drivers are faced with a dilemma: where to put the old rims? It’s a shame to throw away good metal, and there’s often nowhere to store bulky spare parts in the garage. An excellent solution to the problem would be to create a functional and stylish element for a summer house or garage recreation area - a barbecue made from car wheels.
This fryer has unique advantages: it is strong, durable and, unlike factory models made of thin steel, does not deform from heat. The thickness of the metal of a car wheel, especially stamped metal, is ideal for maintaining temperature and maintaining heat for a long time. This is not just waste disposal, but the creation of a reliable unit for cooking meat.
In this article we will analyze in detail the entire transformation process. We'll cover the tools needed, welding steps, stripping techniques, and finishing options. You will learn how working with stamped discs from cast, and receive valuable design safety tips.
Selection and preparation of materials
The first step is to select the source material. For barbecues, stamped steel disks (stamping) are best suited, as they have sufficient wall thickness and are easy to weld. Alloy wheels (cast) can also be used, but they require more careful handling of the welding temperature so as not to overheat the alloy and cause cracks.
The optimal choice is considered to be a disk with a diameter of R13 or R14 from classic VAZ models. They have an ideal bowl depth and an affordable price when disassembled. Before starting work, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the metal of old paint, rust and dirt. This can be done using a grinder with a flap wheel or sandblasting.
It is important to make sure that there are no through corrosion holes on the disk that could compromise the tightness of the firebox. If the rust is superficial, it can be easily removed mechanically. It’s also worth checking the geometry of the product: if the disc has moved too much, it’s better to straighten it on a tire machine before starting the creative process.
⚠️ Attention: Never use discs with existing cracks in the central part or on the rim for grilling. When heated, the crack may spread further, and the bottom of the frying pan will simply fall out at the most inopportune moment.
Necessary tools and consumables
To create a high-quality product, desire alone is not enough; you will need a certain set of equipment. The main tool will be angle grinder (grinder) with a set of cutting and cleaning discs. The final appearance of your creation will depend on the quality of seam cleaning.
A welding machine is required to connect metal parts. It is best to use a semi-automatic machine (MIG/MAG), as it produces a more accurate seam and welds metal of any thickness without burning. Electrode welding is also suitable, but requires a more highly qualified specialist.
- 🛠️ Grinder with 125 mm metal discs.
- 🔥 Welding machine (semiautomatic or inverter).
- 🔨 Hammer, chisel and core for marking.
- 📏 Tape measure, square and chalk for drawings.
- 🎨 Heat-resistant paint and primer for metal.
Don't forget about personal protective equipment. Goggles or a mask are required when working with an angle grinder, and a welding mask will protect your eyes from ultraviolet radiation. Working with metal requires care and attention to detail.
Marking and cutting the disc
The process of creating a barbecue begins with markings. A standard disc consists of two parts: a central disc part and an outer flange. For a classic barbecue, we need to leave the central part and a small side 5-7 cm high so that the coals do not fall out and air enters from below through the standard holes.
Using a chalk and tape measure, measure the cutting line around the circumference. If you want to make the grill deep, the line can be lowered, leaving a higher side. For models with a blower, a rectangular hole is often cut out on the side, which is then closed with a damper.
When cutting, try to guide the grinder straight along the line without jerking the tool. The metal of the disc is thick, so the process may take time. After cutting off the excess ring, the edges of the cut must be processed with a grinding wheel, removing all burrs and irregularities.
Leave the cut ring of the side - it can be used to cut out an excellent grill cover or decorative elements such as handles or legs.
Welding the structure and legs
The most critical stage is welding. If you are making a brazier in the form of a bowl with legs, then you need to weld supports to the bottom of the disk (where it was attached to the hub). The legs can be made from profile pipe, fittings or old stabilizer struts.
For stability, the legs are welded at a slight angle or connected at the bottom by jumpers. This will prevent the structure from swaying on an uneven surface. The seams must be continuous and sealed so that ash does not spill through microcracks.
If you want to make a model with carrying handles, they are also welded at this stage. It is most convenient to use forged elements or simply curved reinforcement welded to opposite sides of the side.
☑️ Checking welded joints
Pay special attention to the quality of the brew. Poor quality seam may burst during cyclic heating and cooling. Therefore, it is better to overcook the area twice than to redo the entire grill after the first use.
Creation of a blowing system
For good combustion of wood and coals, a constant flow of oxygen is necessary. The standard holes in the center of the disk (for bolts) are often too small or inconveniently located. It is recommended to additionally drill a series of holes with a diameter of 10-12 mm along the bottom of the side.
You can go further and make a full blower with a damper. To do this, a rectangular window is cut out in the side, to which guides are welded from the inside, and a hinged door is welded to the outside. This will allow you to regulate the draft and save the coals for reuse.
| Parameter | Recommended value | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Hole diameter | 10-15 mm | Air intake |
| Side height | 50-80 mm | Coal retention |
| Hole spacing | 30-50 mm | Uniform traction |
| Metal thickness | 3-5 mm | Durability |
A well-organized blower system significantly increases the efficiency of the barbecue. The meat cooks faster and more evenly, and the wood burns completely, leaving a minimum of ash.
Cleaning and painting the product
After completing the welding work, the grill does not look very presentable: the seams are dark, the metal is covered in soot. It is necessary to carry out a final cleaning of all surfaces. Use a flap wheel to smooth out the transition between the base metal and the weld.
Painting is not only aesthetics, but also protection against corrosion. Regular paint will burn the first time you light it, so be sure to use heat-resistant enamel (coke-resistant), withstanding temperatures up to +600...+800°C. Matte black paint in aerosol cans is often used.
Before painting, degrease the surface with solvent or Galosh gasoline. Apply the paint in 2-3 thin layers, allowing each to dry according to the instructions. This will create a durable coating that will last for years.
⚠️ Attention: The first ignition of a new grill should be done idle, without food. This is necessary so that the remaining factory grease and technical oils burn out and the coating is stabilized.
Can I use powder coating?
Powder coating is a great option, but it requires curing in an oven at about 200 degrees. If you don't have access to such an oven, it's best to stick to heat-resistant spray enamel that air dries.
Modernization and decor options
The basic grill model is just the beginning. The design can be supplemented with removable handles, a grill grate or a spit. From the remaining parts of the disk you can make a lid, which will allow you to use the grill as a smokehouse or simmering oven.
For decoration, forged elements, rivets are often used, or even part of the disc is left unpainted, creating contrasting patterns. Some craftsmen weld skateboard wheels to the legs for mobility of the structure.
The main thing is that all additional elements are securely fastened and do not interfere with operation. A disk grill is a utilitarian thing, but it can also become a decoration for a site if you approach the matter with imagination.
The use of a thick-walled stamped disk ensures that the grill will last for decades without burning out or deforming, unlike thin-sheet steel.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to make a barbecue from alloy wheels?
Yes, you can, but with caution. Alloy wheels are made from an alloy of aluminum and other metals. They are lighter and more beautiful, but they are less resistant to sudden temperature changes and can tear when overheated. Strong fire is undesirable for them; it is better to use ready-made coals.
Do I need to burn off old paint before welding?
It is advisable to remove the paint in the weld areas to bare metal, otherwise the seam will be porous and weak. The rest of the paint can be cleaned off with a grinder, but if you are planning a complete repainting, you can cook it on top, although this will complicate the work.
How high should the sides of the grill be?
The optimal height of the side is 6-8 cm. If you make the sides lower, the coals will spill out when stirring. If it is higher, cravings will worsen, and the meat will be boiled rather than fried.
What is the best way to paint the inside of a barbecue?
It is not necessary to paint the inside of the bowl, since a layer of soot will still form there. If you want to protect against rust during storage, use only food-grade heat-resistant compounds or bluing (bluing - chemical process for creating an oxide film - gives excellent black color and protection).