The process of restoration of the paint coating of the car requires not only high-quality equipment, but also a deep understanding of the chemistry of materials. When it comes to metallicA mistake in the proportions of the components mixing can cost you the perfect visual effect or even lead to defects that have to be remade. Unlike acrylic enamels, the base does not polymerize by itself, but forms a decorative layer that depends on the location of aluminum particles.
Many beginners in body repair underestimate the importance of accuracy in solvent dosage, relying on the eye. This is a grave mistake, because viscosity The material directly affects how the metal floc lies. Too thick paint will not have time to spread, creating a shaking, and excessively liquid will provoke leaks or a change in shade, which is especially critical for complex three-layer pearls.
In this article, we will discuss in detail the algorithm of actions necessary to obtain the perfect mixture. You will learn how to choose the right one. solvent Depending on the temperature in the chamber, which tools are required for mixing and why the measuring glass is your main ally in this work. Compliance with technology is a guarantee that the transitions will be invisible, and the color will coincide with the factory standard.
Required materials and tools for mixing
Before starting to open the cans, it is necessary to prepare the workplace and tools. Chaos on a painter’s table is the direct path to marriage. You will need a clean, dry mixing container, preferably transparent to see the process of joining the components. Also, an indispensable element is measuring-glass with a scale of proportions, which allows you to observe mathematical accuracy.
Random sticks or wire clips cannot be used to mix the components. Professionals use special wooden or plastic stirringers that do not react with the chemistry and do not leave a pile. Besides, you're gonna need funnel-filter (curtains) with a small cell, usually 125 or 190 microns, to cut off possible lumps and dust before pouring into the spray gun.
- 🧪 Measuring tanks with calibration for exact compliance with the proportions.
- 🥄 Wooden or plastic stirrings that leave no trace.
- 🌡️ Viscometer for monitoring the fluidity of the finished mixture.
- 🧤 Nitrile gloves and a respirator to protect your health.
It is important to note that all tools should be completely clean. Residues of an old solvent or other paint may react with the new material, causing the residue to be reactive. folding or a change of color. If you use reusable containers, they must be thoroughly washed with an active solvent and blown with compressed air before each new mix.
⚠️ Warning: Never use metal objects (knives, screwdrivers) to stir metal base. The metal can oxidize or scratch the bottom of the container, and also cause an unwanted chemical reaction with the pigments, which will lead to color loss.
Solvent choice and temperature effect
The key point in the question of how to dilute the base metallic, is the correct selection of solvent. The chemical industry offers three main types: fast, medium and slow. The choice depends solely on the ambient temperature and the temperature of the painted surface. Using the wrong type will cause the paint to either dry on the fly, creating an “orange peel” or to dry for a long time, collecting dust.
At a temperature in the paint chamber below +15 ° C should be used solvent. It provides instant evaporation, allowing the base to grab faster. However, in heat (above +25 ° C), such a solvent will evaporate too quickly, not allowing aluminum particles to navigate correctly, which will make the spot lighter or darker than the main tone. In this case, it is necessary slow-motion.
Text of useful advice
If you work in an unheated garage in winter, heat not only the body of the car, but also the can itself with the solvent to room temperature before mixing. The cold solvent changes viscosity dramatically and can cause moisture condensation inside a colorful torch.
The universal option for most conditions is considered middle-solvent. It is suitable for the temperature range from +15 to +25 degrees Celsius. It is recommended to start training with him, as he forgives small mistakes in the application technique, giving more time to adjust the spray torch.
| Type of solvent | Air temperature | Evaporation rate | Risk of defects |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fast. | up to +15°C | Tall. | Shagrin, matteness |
| Medium. | +15...+25°C | Medium | Minimum |
| Slowly. | above +25°C | Low. | Dripping, boiling |
| Very slow. | above +30°C / large planes | Very low. | Dust, insects. |
Mixing Proportions: The Gold Standard
The most common question for beginner painters is: in what ratio to mix components? For most modern base coatings (Base Coat), the standard is a ratio of 2:1 or 1:1, where the first digit is the volume of paint and the second is the volume of solvent. However, this rule cannot be blindly followed. Each repair system (Mobihel, Duxone, PPG, Brulex) has its own recommendations, as indicated on the bank or on the technical passport of the product.
The instructions are usually: “Dilluminate 10-15% of the solvent.” This means that for 1 liter of base you will need to add 100-150 ml of solvent. Exceeding the concentration of solvent above 20% can lead to the fact that the binder does not have time to form a film, and the metal simply crumbles or loses adhesion. The lack of solvent will make the paint too thick, and it will lie “sand”.
For exact compliance with the proportions, use a measuring glass with divisions. Pour the right amount of base to a certain risk, and then add the solvent to the appropriate mark. For example, if the proportion is 10% and you poured the base to the risks of 1000 ml, the solvent should be added to the risks of 1100 ml. Visual evaluation "by eye" in the case of metallic is unacceptable due to the high cost of the material and the complexity of color selection.
- 📏 Strictly follow the instructions on the bank of the particular manufacturer.
- ⚖️ Use measuring glasses, not kitchen containers.
- 💧 Start with a minimum amount of solvent (10%).
- 👁️ Control viscosity visually and by the time of the drainage.
⚠️ Warning: Never add hardener to base metallic enamel! The base dries solely due to the evaporation of the solvent. Adding a hardener will make the paint unsuitable for application, turning it into a lump within 20-30 minutes.
Mixing technology and viscosity testing
After adding the solvent, a critical stage begins - mixing. Aluminum pigment, giving the effect of metallic, is much heavier than the binder and solvent. When stored, it settles to the bottom of the bank in a dense layer. If you just shake the jar and pour the contents, you will get a clean solvent at the exit, and at the end - a thick paste of pigment.
It is necessary to thoroughly mix the base for 2-3 minutes, lifting sediment from the bottom and walls. Movements must be intense but careful to avoid creating air bubbles, although this is less critical for the base than for the varnish. After stirring, be sure to filter the paint through a sieve funnel into a spray gun tank. This will remove possible clots, dust or “grinds” of pigment.
How to check the viscosity without a viscometer?
Lower the wooden stirrer in the paint and lift it. The liquid should drain in a continuous stream, which is then interrupted, and the last drop hangs at the end of 1-2 seconds. If the paint is pouring like water, it is too liquid. If it drips in individual heavy drops at once - too thick.
Viscosity testing is a skill that comes with experience. Optimal viscosity allows the paint to be sprayed well, but not to leak. If you see that the spray gun torch is dry and rough, add another 5% solvent. If the paint lies wet and micro-sweezes appear, the mixture is too liquid, and you need to let it stand or add a little undiluted base.
Application process and layer formation
The technique of applying base metallic is radically different from painting with acrylic or varnish. We do not seek to fill the surface with gloss. The first layer is to create color and cover the ground. It is applied with a “dust”, that is, a dry torch, from a distance of 25-30 cm. The layer should be translucent, through it should be visible soil or old color.
After the first drilling, it is necessary to give an “interlayer drying”. For the base, this is the time of evaporation of the solvent, usually 5-10 minutes at a temperature of +20 ° C. The surface should be matte. If you apply the second layer to a wet base, the solvent will “boil” under a new crust, which will cause defects. The second layer is applied more saturated, but also without gloss.
The peculiarity of the metal is the orientation of flakes (scales). When properly applied, they lie parallel to the surface, creating a uniform shine. If blowing too hard or too close, turbulent airflows will stack the scales chaoticly and the color will become spotty. This phenomenon is called “appleness” or “multiple”.
The main point or conclusion of this section
Base-metallic is applied in 2-3 thin layers with mandatory interlayer drying to matteness. The glossy base should not be, its task is color and effect, and the finishing varnish will give protection and shine.
Common Errors and How to Resolve Them
Even experienced painters face problems when working with metallized paints. One of the most common mistakes is to apply the base on a poorly prepared or greasy surface. This leads to peeling ("fish eye") or the appearance of craters ("fish eye"). Degreasing should be carried out with a high-quality antisilicone using two wipes: one is applied, the other is immediately wiped dry.
Another common problem is the change in shade after drying. Metallic has the property of "lightening" or "darkening" depending on the angle of view and the number of layers. If you have applied too many layers or diluted the paint too fluidly, the aluminum particles will sink deeper into the layer and the color will become darker. Conversely, dry application makes the color lighter.
- 🌫️ The appearance of matte spots (raznotone) is a violation of interlayer drying.
- 💧 Craters and fish eyes are the ingress of silicone or oil to the surface.
- 🏗️ Shagrene (orange peel) - too thick paint or high pressure.
- 🎨 Color change – wrong viscosity or number of layers.
If you notice a defect immediately after application, you can sometimes fix the situation while the base is still alive. However, if the base is dry, you can not grind it - you will violate the orientation of the metal. In this case, the defective layer is carefully washed off with a solvent, and the painting is done again. Therefore, it is so important to make test colors on the test plate in front of the main body.
What if the base dried up too quickly and fell into dust?
If the base dried instantly (the dry paint effect), do not immediately try to cover it with varnish. It is necessary to carefully polish the defective layer with abrasive P800-P1000 to knock down the shaft, degrease the surface and apply the base again, adding more delayed solvent (retardant) to the mixture to increase the spreading time.
Can I keep a diluted metal base?
Theoretically, the diluted base can be stored in a sealed container for several weeks, but before each use it will have to be thoroughly mixed and filtered. However, the pigment may begin to stratify or oxidize. Professionals recommend diluting just as much paint as you need for one cycle of painting (usually 1-2 parts) to avoid loss of properties and drying in the tank.
How to achieve the effect of “chameleon” or Candy in a breeding process?
Effects such as Candy (confetti) or complex pearls require application to a special silver or golden substrate (base). The color base itself (candy) is diluted similarly, but applied in very thin layers (up to 5-7 layers) until the desired color depth is obtained. The transparency of each layer plays a crucial role here.
In conclusion, it is worth emphasizing: the ideal metallic painting is a symbiosis of correct chemistry (proportions) and physics (application techniques). Don’t be afraid to experiment on test plates, recording the results: how much solvent was added, how much pressure was exposed, how many layers were applied. This experience will be your personal instruction that will guarantee the result better than any theoretical knowledge.