Transporting construction equipment often becomes a serious logistics problem, especially when the dimensions of the equipment exceed the dimensions of a standard car trunk. A concrete mixer, being a massive and bulky unit, requires a special approach to moving between objects or when purchasing a used model. Complete disassembly of the structure allows not only to simplify loading, but also to protect the components from damage during shaking on the way.
The dismantling process does not require complex engineering knowledge, but it does require a basic set of tools and understanding of the device gearbox and frames. Failure to follow sequential disassembly instructions may result in deformation of the ring gear or damage to the engine electrical wiring. In this article, we will look in detail at the steps to transform a monolithic device into compact modules ready for safe transportation.
Before starting work, it is extremely important to ensure that the equipment is completely de-energized and disconnected from the network. Any manipulations with the electrical part before removing the plug from the socket are strictly prohibited by safety regulations. Primary preparation takes a little time, but ensures that no accidental starting of mechanisms occurs during operation.
Necessary tools and security measures
High-quality and quick disassembly is impossible without a properly selected set of tools. A standard household set of wrenches may not be sufficient, since the fastening elements of concrete mixers are often tightened with great force and are susceptible to corrosion. You'll need a variety of sizes of wrenches, including open-end and box-end wrenches, as well as a set of ratchet sockets for accessing hard-to-reach bolts.
Particular attention should be paid to protecting your hands, as the metal edges of the frame and barrel may have sharp burrs or signs of rust. The use of thick work gloves is a must to prevent cuts and splinters. It is also a good idea to wear safety glasses, especially when working with rusted joints from which scale may fall.
Additional equipment will be required to work with the electrical part and lubrication of the gearbox. Do not forget to prepare a container for draining old oil if you plan to service the gearbox, and a rag for wiping parts. All removed bolts, nuts and washers must be immediately placed in a separate container so as not to lose them in the grass or dirt of the construction site.
- 🛠️ A set of wrenches (from 10 to 24 mm) and sockets with a collar.
- 🔌 Screwdrivers (phillips and flat) for dismantling terminals and casings.
- 🧤 Protective gloves and glasses for hand and eye safety.
- 🧴 Penetrating lubricant (WD-40 or analogues) for soured threaded connections.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, make sure that the power cord is unplugged from the outlet. Accidental activation of the device during disassembly may result in serious injury to fingers or limbs.
If you plan to transport the concrete mixer over a long distance, it makes sense to prepare packaging materials in advance. Stretch film or thick cardboard will help protect the painted surfaces of the frame from scratches when rubbing against the sides of the car. Properly assembled tools are a guarantee that the process will not drag on for several hours due to the search for a suitable screwdriver.
Removing the electric motor and wiring
The first step in disassembly is always to disconnect and remove the electric motor. This is the most sensitive node that requires careful handling. You should start with a visual inspection of the location of the terminal box and the cable route. Often the cable is secured with plastic clamps or metal brackets directly to the frame or gearbox housing.
To remove the engine, you need to unscrew the mounting bolts holding it in place. Depending on model concrete mixer, there can be from two to four. Before unscrewing, it is recommended to treat the threaded connections with penetrating lubricant if the device was operated in conditions of high humidity. This will make it much easier to unscrew the bolts and reduce the risk of edges licking off.
After releasing the fastenings, the engine is carefully removed from the gearbox shaft. At the same time, the contact group is disconnected, if it was not previously removed along with the housing.
The condition requires special attention capacitor and a starting device, which are often located in a separate housing. They also need to be dismantled or securely fixed so that vibration during transportation does not break the wires. All exposed wire ends should be immediately insulated with electrical tape or capped.
- 🔌 Carefully disconnect the wires from the terminal block, having previously photographed the connection diagram.
- ⚙️ Treat the engine mounting bolts with lubricant 10-15 minutes before unscrewing.
- 📸 Take a photo of the location of all elements before complete dismantling to simplify assembly.
Removing the barrel (pear) and support circle
The central element of the design is the container for mixing the solution, which is popularly called a “pear” or a barrel. It is installed on the support circle and secured with a bolted connection. To remove the barrel, it is necessary to provide access to the mounting bolts, which are located around the circumference of the support disk. In some models, access to them is made difficult by frame elements.
The removal process requires the participation of two people, since even an empty metal barrel has significant weight and dimensions. One person should hold the container, and the second should unscrew the mounting bolts. After unscrewing the last bolt, the barrel is carefully removed from the shaft and set aside. It is important not to damage reference circle, since its deformation will lead to beating during future operation.
If there are remains of hardened concrete on the inner surface of the barrel, it is advisable to remove them before packaging. The hardened solution has a lot of weight and can break off when shaking, damaging other parts or the car body during transportation. In addition, this will allow for inspection of the internal surface for cracks.
How to clean a concrete barrel?
To clean, use a metal scraper and water. If the concrete has hardened for a long time, you can gently tap on the outer wall with a rubber mallet to break up large pieces, but without fanaticism, so as not to deform the metal. Chemical concrete solvents are also effective, but require caution.
After removing the barrel, access is freed to the ring gear, which is often attached separately. If the design allows, it is also better to dismantle the crown, since it is a fragile element. Plastic or cast iron teeth may not withstand the load when parts are tightly packed in the car body.
Disassembling the gearbox and running wheel
The gear unit is the heart of the rotation mechanism. In most household models, it is a sealed unit that does not require disassembly for transportation. However, if the dimensions of the gearbox prevent compact installation, it can be detached from the frame. To do this, unscrew the bolts securing the gearbox housing to the metal frame frame.
The running wheel (gear), on which the barrel rests, is attached to the container itself or to the support disk. To remove it, you need to turn the barrel over or gain access to the inside of the mount. The bolts holding the crown are often covered with decorative caps or a layer of dirt.
Particular care should be taken when working with the gearbox. Inside there are gears and bearings that are sensitive to shock. Seal tightness must not be damaged, otherwise the oil and seals will have to be changed during the next assembly. If the gearbox is being removed, it is better to plug the shaft hole with a clean rag to prevent dust from getting inside.
| element | Mounting type | Tool | Weight (approximate) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Electric motor | Bolts (4 pcs) | Key for 13-14 | 8-12 kg |
| Barrel (pear) | Bolts in a circle | Key for 10-12 | 15-20 kg |
| Gearbox | Bolts (3-4 pcs) | Key for 17 | 5-8 kg |
| Support circle | Welding/Bolts | Key to 19 | 3-5 kg |
In some designs, the gearbox is integrated into the frame so tightly that its removal is impractical. In this case, only the drive shaft or gear transmitting torque is disconnected. This allows the structure to be separated into two independent parts: a heavy base and a light rotating part.
Removing the frame and turning mechanism
The concrete mixer frame is the supporting structure and is often the heaviest part after the barrel. The purpose of disassembling the frame is to reduce its dimensions in length and width. The main assembly to be dismantled is a rotating mechanism with a sector gear and a fixing screw.
To disassemble, you need to unscrew the barrel tilt axis. This is a long bolt or shaft that runs through the center of the frame. Once removed, the side posts holding the barrel can be removed. The remaining part of the frame with wheels and engine becomes much more compact.
☑️ Frame disassembly checklist
The wheelset can also be dismantled if transport conditions require it. Typically, the wheel axle is secured with cotter pins or circlips. Removing the wheels allows you to lay the frame flat, which saves vertical space in the car body.
When disassembling the rotary mechanism, pay attention to the condition sector wheel. This is a plastic or metal part with teeth that is responsible for fixing the angle of inclination. It is easy to break if handled carelessly, so you need to remove it carefully without using excessive force.
⚠️ Attention: When removing the tilt axis, make sure that the frame is securely fixed and will not fall on you. The structure may be in a tense state, and a sudden release of the fasteners will cause it to shift.
After dismantling all the moving elements, you will be left with the frame frame, which is a welded structure. It can already be easily loaded into a car. It's best to put all small parts, such as washers, stoppers and axles, in a bag and tie them to the main frame so they don't get lost.
Packing parts and preparing for loading
The final step before loading into the vehicle is the correct packaging and grouping of parts. Scattered elements should not hang loosely, otherwise when moving they will rub against each other, creating noise and being damaged. Large parts, such as the barrel and frame, are laid first.
The engine and gearbox, as the most valuable and heaviest components, should be packed in thick cardboard or bubble wrap. They need to be positioned so that when the car brakes or turns, they do not move and pierce the thin metal of the barrel. It is ideal to use the trunk of a car to place heavy metal blocks.
To protect threaded connections from dirt and moisture during travel, you can use masking tape or special caps. This is especially true if transportation is planned in an open car or in bad weather conditions. Clean threads ensure quick and easy assembly in the new location.
- 📦 Place all small fasteners in one or more durable bags.
- 🔒 Securely secure the load in the body using straps or stops.
- 🛡️ Place soft material (cardboard, fabric) between metal parts.
Check that the load is securely secured before driving. A disassembled concrete mixer is still a collection of heavy objects that can become dangerous under sudden braking. Proper installation will ensure the safety of equipment and road safety.
The main purpose of packaging is to prevent parts from moving relative to each other and the car body while driving.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Do I need to drain the oil from the gearbox before transporting it?
In most cases, sealed gearboxes of household concrete mixers do not require draining the oil during short-term transportation, unless they have obvious damage to the seals. However, if you plan to transport it in hot weather or the unit will be upside down, it is best to drain the oil to avoid leaks.
Is it possible to transport an assembled concrete mixer on the roof of a car?
Transportation in assembled form is only possible if you have a reliable roof rack and fastenings that can support the weight of the device (usually 40-60 kg). However, this method is not recommended due to the high windage and the risk of damage to the barrel by branches or low bridges. Disassembly is preferable.
What to do if the bolts on the barrel cannot be unscrewed?
If the fasteners are stuck, generously pour penetrating lubricant (WD-40, kerosene) onto the joints and leave for 15-20 minutes. You can try gently tapping the bolts with a hammer through the adapter to destroy the rust layer. Using excessive force or heating with an open flame is not recommended as it may damage the threads or distort the metal.
How to mark parts so as not to mix up the bolts during assembly?
Use masking tape and a marker. Place a piece of tape on the mounting location and label it, for example, “Engine - front bolt.” You can also put the bolts for each node into separate bags with signatures. Taking photographs of the disassembly process from different angles also makes reassembly much easier.