Working with elastic fabrics often turns into a real challenge even for experienced craftswomen who do an excellent job with thick cotton or silk. Sewing machines Janome are renowned for their reliability and accuracy, but knits, jerseys and other stretch materials require a special approach to setting up the equipment. If you ignore the specifics of a knitted fabric, the seam may become βwaveyβ, the fabric will bunch up at the foot, and in the worst case, the mechanism will begin to skip stitches, damaging the product and your nerves.
The main secret of success lies in understanding the physics of the process: the machine needle should not break through the knitted threads, but carefully move them apart, after which the thread passes freely through the resulting hole. Modern models Janome equipped with many useful functions that allow you to work with complex materials, but only with proper preparation. In this article we will analyze all the nuances, from the choice of consumables to fine adjustment of thread tension.
Before you start cutting, make sure your work area is well lit and the machine is placed on a stable surface. Any vibration when working with thin knitwear can lead to displacement of layers and defects in the seam. It is also critical to clean the rack and shuttle compartment of dust and lint accumulated from previous projects.
Choosing the right needle and foot for stretch fabrics
The foundation of a quality seam is a needle, and in the case of knitwear, standard options with a sharp tip are absolutely not suitable. A regular needle pierces the fabric with force, pushing the threads apart, which often leads to their breaking or the formation of puffs that cannot be corrected. For knitted fabrics, special needles with a rounded tip are used, which are marked as Stretch or Jersey.
The rounded tip of such a needle does not tear the fibers, but gently pushes them apart, allowing the needle to pass between the threads of knitwear. If you are using the model Janome Memory Craft or simpler series like Decor, make sure that the needle is inserted all the way into the needle holder and is oriented correctly (usually the flat cut of the bulb faces backwards). The size of the needle also plays a role: for thin knitwear, No. 75 or No. 80 is suitable, and for thicker footer or jersey, it is better to take No. 90.
β οΈ Attention: Never use old or dull needles for working with knitwear. Even a microscopic burr on the tip will tear the threads of the fabric, causing defects that will appear only after washing the product.
The second important element is the foot. A standard metal foot can press the fabric too tightly against the rail, causing it to stretch as you sew. The ideal solution is to use a Teflon coated foot or a walking foot (top feed). In line Janome paw is common AcuFeed, which ensures uniform advancement of the top and bottom layers of fabric, preventing movement.
Adjusting thread tension and stitch length
Correctly setting the upper thread tension is a balance that often requires experimentation on a sample patch. For knits, the tension is usually released so that the seam retains its elasticity with the fabric. If the tension is too strong, the thread will stretch, and when the product is stretched, the seam will burst or go like an accordion.
The optimal stitch length for stretch materials is 2.5 to 3.5 mm. A stitch that is too short can cause the fabric to βpullβ, while a stitch that is too long will not provide sufficient strength to the joint. On the display of modern models Janome these parameters can be adjusted with high accuracy by changing the step in tenths of a millimeter.
The lower thread (in the shuttle) should also be wound evenly and without knots. If you notice that the bobbin thread is looping, check that the thread guides are threaded correctly. Sometimes it helps to replace the bottom thread with a thinner one or use threads of the same type as the top threads, but of a lower number.
Use 100% polyester thread for sewing knitwear. They have high strength and elasticity, unlike cotton threads, which can burst when the seam is stretched.
To check the quality of the setting, sew a test stitch on two layers of your fabric. Pull the seam in different directions: if it holds and does not tear, and the fabric does not wrinkle around the needle, the settings are correct. If the fabric is rippling, try loosening the presser foot or decreasing the upper thread tension.
Selecting stitch type: straight or zigzag?
The classic straight stitch is not suitable for sewing knitted items, as it does not stretch. When putting the product on, such a seam will instantly burst. To join elastic fabrics, it is necessary to use special elastic stitches, which are available in the arsenal of any machine. Janome.
The most popular option is narrow zigzag. It allows the seam to stretch with the fabric. The zigzag width is usually set in the range of 1.5β2.5 mm, and the stitch length is 2.5β3 mm. This stitching looks neat and securely secures the edges.
- 𧡠Triple straight stitch (or reinforced straight) - passes three times forward and once back, creating a very strong but less elastic seam, ideal for shoulder seams.
- οΈ Overlock stitch β imitates the edge of an overlocker, simultaneously stitching and processing the edge, preventing fraying (if the fabric is loose).
- π Line "Lightning" (Lightning) - a special elastic stitch, available on many Janome models, which stretches well and does not bulge.
If you are working on the edge of a garment (the hem), it is best to use a twin needle. It creates two parallel straight stitches at the top and an elastic zigzag at the bottom, allowing the seam to stretch freely. Make sure your machine supports twin needle installation and has a corresponding hole in the needle plate.
For the main connection of parts, use a narrow zigzag or a special elastic stitch, and for decorative stitching, use a double needle.
Sewing technique: how to avoid stretching and waves
Even a perfectly tuned machine will not save you if the material feeding technique is broken. The main mistake beginners make is trying to stretch the fabric in front of the foot with their hands or, conversely, forcefully pulling it from behind. The fabric must be advanced solely by the operation of the rack.
Keep the fabric slightly taut just at the seam plane, but do not stretch it. If you are sewing long pieces, such as sleeves or the side seams of a dress, support the fabric on either side of the presser foot to prevent its weight from pulling the seam down. This is especially true for heavy knitwear.
Be sure to backtack at the beginning and end of the seam. On knitwear, it is better to do this not just in reverse (which can tangle the threads), but by leaving the long ends of the threads and tying them in a knot by hand or sewing a few stitches in place without advancing the fabric, if the machine allows.
βοΈ Checklist before starting sewing
When sewing two parts, make sure that the cuts match perfectly. Knitwear tends to curl, so before starting work it is better to pin the pieces together with pins perpendicular to the seam or baste them with threads. Remove the pins as the presser foot approaches so as not to break the needle.
Table for selecting parameters for different types of knitwear
Different types of knitted fabric require an individual approach. Thin stockinette and thick fleece with fleece will be sewn differently. Below is a table with recommended settings for different materials on machines Janome.
| Fabric type | Needle number | Stitch type | Stitch length(mm) | Stitch Width (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thin knitwear (T-shirts) | 75 Stretch | Narrow zigzag | 2.5 | 1.5 |
| Medium knitwear (dresses) | 80/90 Jersey | Elastic straight | 3.0 | - |
| Thick footer/Cashkorse | 90 Stretch | Zigzag / Overlock | 3.0 - 3.5 | 2.0 - 2.5 |
| Sports fabric (Lycra) | 75 Stretch | Narrow zigzag | 2.0 | 1.0 |
| Bottom hem (double needle) | 2.0 / 4.0 Twin | Direct | 2.5 - 3.0 | - |
Use this data as a starting point. Always make a test stitch on scraps of your particular fabric, since the composition of the threads (natural cotton, synthetics, mixed fabrics) greatly affects the behavior of the material under the needle.
What to do if the seam still ripples?
If waviness appears, try ironing the seam through a damp iron and pulling back. Sometimes it helps to insert a strip of interlining or special tape into the seam during the sewing process.
Solving common problems: skips and loops
One of the most common problems when sewing knitwear is skipping stitches. This happens when the needle point does not have time to pick up the thread in the shuttle due to the displacement of the fabric. In addition to replacing the needle with a specialized one, try reducing the sewing speed. The slower you turn the flywheel or press the pedal, the more accurately the mechanism works.
Skips can also be caused by improper needle installation or the use of low quality threads that produce a lot of lint. Lint clogs the eye of the needle and the shuttle mechanism, disrupting synchronization. Regular cleaning of the machine during operation is a must.
β οΈ Attention: If the machine begins to knock loudly or make unusual sounds when sewing thick knitwear, stop immediately. The needle may have caught on a pin or the seam is too thick, which may cause the needle bar to break.
If the thread gets tangled at the bottom (βbeardsβ), check the upper threading. Often, when the presser foot is raised, the thread does not fall between the tension discs, and the machine sews without tension, forming loops. When threading, the presser foot must be raised!
Caring for your machine after working with knitwear
Knitted fabrics, especially synthetic ones, are prone to static electricity and attract lint. After completing the project, be sure to remove the needle plate and thoroughly clean the hook area with a soft brush. Lint that has accumulated in the mechanism may cause the machine to malfunction the next time it is turned on.
Lubricating the machine after working with knitwear is usually not required more often than usual, but if you sew a large volume, it is worth dropping a drop of oil into the shuttle compartment according to the instructions for your model Janome. This will ensure smooth operation and extend the life of the device.
Store your machine in a cover to protect it from dust. Dust combined with textile fluff residues forms an abrasive mixture that accelerates the wear of metal parts of the mechanism.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to sew knitwear on a regular household Janome machine without an overlocker?
Yes, absolutely. Modern household Janome machines have all the necessary elastic stitches (zigzag, triple straight, overlock imitation), which allow you to sew knitwear no worse than an overlocker. The main thing is the correct needle and settings.
Why does the needle break when sewing knitwear?
This most often occurs due to the fabric being pulled by hand while sewing, which bends the needle. The cause could also be a dull needle that does not pierce the fabric, but hits it, or hitting a pin/thickening seam at high speed.
What thread is best to use for sewing T-shirts?
100% polyester threads (for example, #40 or #50) are ideal. They are strong, elastic and do not shrink when washed, unlike cotton threads, which can pull the seam.
Do I need to lubricate knitwear with silicone before sewing?
No, you don't need to lubricate the fabric. However, if the fabric becomes very static and sticky, you can lightly spray the work area with a fabric antistatic agent, but not the machine itself.
What to do if the seam cracks when stretched?
This means that the seam is not elastic. Try replacing a straight stitch with a zigzag stitch, loosening the upper thread tension, or using a lower thread count (thinner thread) in the shuttle.