Car auction sheet: how to read and decipher all the data

Auction sheet (or auction sheet) is the main document that tells the history of a car from Japanese, American or Korean auctions. Without the ability to read it, you risk buying a car with hidden problems: from broken body geometry to crooked mileage. But 80% of buyers ignore half the data on the sheet, focusing only on the score and mileage - and this is a big mistake.

In this article we will look at all sections of the auction sheet — from basic data to hidden damage codes, we will learn to distinguish a “clean” car from one that has been repainted or after an accident, and we will show you what to pay attention to first. You will learn how auctioneers evaluate the condition of a car, what the mysterious letters and numbers in the columns mean, and why even a car with a "5" rating may be a worse choicethan "3.5" with a detailed description.

For clarity, we will use real examples of sheets from auctions USS, JAA and AAA, and also show how the same car can have different ratings on different sites. If you are planning to buy a car at auction, bookmark this article: it will save you thousands of rubles on hidden repairs.

1. Auction list structure: what to look for where

An auction sheet is more than just a piece of paper with an estimate. This multi-page document (most often in Japanese or English), which consists of several key blocks. Let's look at them in order:

🔹 Leaf head - are indicated here make, model, year of manufacture, VIN, body/chassis number and basic engine information. Pay attention to VIN: if it does not match what is on the body, it is 100% fake or a “rebuilt” car.

🔹 Specifications — engine size, gearbox type, drive, body color (original and current), fuel type. It can also be indicated here Japanese domestic model code (for example, Toyota Corolla E170), which will help you find original spare parts.

🔹 Grade - the “hottest” part of the leaf. But assessment without context is useless: A “4” might mean “excellent” at one auction, but “needs repair” at another. More on this in the next section.

🔹 Mileage history — a graph or table with mileage data at the time of each auction. If your mileage suddenly decreases - this is a sure sign of twisting. Some sheets also indicate average annual mileage (for example, 15,000 km/year), which helps to assess the realism of the figures.

🔹 Damage and repair codes - the most important and most confusing section. Here are used alphanumeric designations, which talk about accidents, corrosion, replacement of parts and even the condition of the interior. For example, code A0 may mean "no damage" and R — “repair after an accident.”

🔹 Photos - usually included separately, but sometimes there are thumbnails on the sheet. Always ask for a full photo report: At auctions, corners where rust or signs of repair are visible are often hidden.

🔹 Auctioneer's Notes - may be indicated here hidden defects, for example: “the radiator has been replaced”, “traces of water in the cabin” or “the air conditioner is faulty”. This section often ignored, but it may contain critical information.

2. Decoding the grade (Grade): why “5” is not always better than “3”

Assessing the condition of a car is subjective indicator, which depends on the auction, model and even time of year. For example, on USS the rating system is stricter than on JAA, so the same car can get "4.5" and "5.0" respectively.

Here basic rating scale (valid for most Japanese auctions):

Evaluation	State Description	What does this mean in practice?
6 (S)	New or almost new	Mileage up to 10,000 km, without damage, often with a guarantee. It is extremely rare - usually these are demo cars or cars with mileage <1 year.
5	Excellent condition	Mileage up to 30,000–50,000 km, micro scratches are possible. But carefully: sometimes “5” is given after cosmetic repairs (repainting, bumper replacement).
4.5	Good condition	Mileage up to 80,000 km, minor defects (chips, abrasions of the interior) are possible. Often the best option in terms of price/quality ratio.
4	Satisfactory	Mileage 80,000–120,000 km, there may be traces of an accident (but not serious). Requires careful inspection.
3.5 and below	Needs renovation	Mileage over 150,000 km, obvious signs of accidents, corrosion. But! Sometimes a “3” with a detailed description is better than a “4” without comments.

Why can "5" be worse than "3.5"?

⚠️ Attention: At some auctions, cars automatically receive a “5” rating after cosmetic repairs (for example, repainting a fender or replacing a headlight). At the same time, the sheet does not always indicate that the car was hit. At the same time, “3.5” marked “minor accident in front” more honestly reflects the real condition.

How to check the honesty of the assessment?

• 🔍 Compare the rating with photo report. If the photo shows rust, but the sheet says “4.5” - this is a reason to doubt.
• 📊 Look mileage history. Sharp jumps (for example, from 100,000 to 80,000 km) indicate twisting.
• 📋 Explore damage codes (about them in the next section). Sometimes "5" is given to a car with a code R (repair after an accident).

3. Damage codes: what letters and numbers hide

This is the most difficult part of the auction sheet, where every letter and number matters. Codes can tell you about an accident, corrosion, replacement parts, and even the condition of the engine. Let's look at the main groups:

🔧 Body damage codes (most critical):

• A0 - no damage (ideal).
• A1-A3 — minor scratches/chips (not critical).
• B — dents without damaging the paintwork.
• C — scratches to metal (risk of corrosion).
• D — dents with damage to the paintwork.
• R — repair after an accident (may mean replacing parts or straightening).
• S — serious accident (often with violation of body geometry).
• W - traces water (flood, flood).

🔥 Engine and chassis related codes:

• E — problems with the engine (knock, vibration).
• G — gearbox malfunctions.
• H - problems with the brake system.
• K — electrical problems (often found in hybrids).
• M — modifications (chip tuning, modified suspension).

🎨 Codes related to paintwork and interior:

• P — partial repainting (for example, one wing).
• P* — Complete repainting of the body.
• U - traces of rust.
• I — damage to the interior (torn seats, stains).
• O — smell in the cabin (may indicate smoking or flooding).

An example of real code decoding:

Let's say the sheet says: B, P, U1, R. This means:

• 🔘 B — dents without damaging the paintwork.
• 🔘 P — partial repainting (most likely after removing dents).
• 🔘 U1 — minor corrosion (level 1).
• 🔘 R - repair after an accident.

Conclusion: the car was damaged, it was straightened and painted. Despite the possible rating of "4", this is not the best option to buy.

Where to look for codes in the sheet?

They are usually listed in the section Exterior/Interior Condition or Remarks. If there is no code, this is doesn't mean it didn't exist. Perhaps the auctioneer simply did not indicate (this happens with minor defects).

What to do if there are too many codes?

If there are more than 5 damage codes on the sheet, this is a reason to be wary. The car has probably been in a serious accident or has systemic problems (for example, rust all over the body). In this case, it is better to refuse the purchase or order a full diagnosis before purchasing.

4. Mileage: how to recognize twisting and what “unverified mileage” means

Mileage is one of the key parameters, but at auctions it is often undervalued. Here's how to calculate it:

📉 Signs of mileage twist:

• 🚗 A sharp decrease in mileage between auctions (for example, it was 120,000 km, now it is 90,000 km).
• ⏳ Mileage does not correspond to the age of the car (for example, 2015 Toyota Camry with a mileage of 20,000 km - unlikely).
• 🔧 Discrepancy in mileage on sheet and on dashboard (sometimes auctioneers will list "estimated" mileage if odometer is broken).
• 📝 There is a mark in the mileage column Not Verified or Estimated - this means that the numbers are approximate.

📊 How to check the realism of the mileage?

Use average data for model:

• 🚘 Passenger cars pass through in Japan 10,000–15,000 km/year.
• 🚐 Minibuses and commercial vehicles - 20,000–30,000 km/year.
• 🏁 Sports cars (eg. Nissan GT-R) - often 5,000–10,000 km/year (low mileage may be a sign of track use).

Example:

Let's say you're looking 2018 Honda CR-V with a mileage of 40,000 km (2026). We count:

2026 – 2018 = 6 years.

40,000 km / 6 years ≈ 6,666 km/year.

This suspiciously little for a crossover (the norm is 12,000–15,000 km/year). Possible reasons:

• Mileage twist.
• The car was idle (for example, it was leased with a kilometer limit).
• The mileage is incorrect (auctioneer error).

What to do if the mileage is in doubt?

⚠️ Attention: If the mileage is indicated on the sheet Not Verified, and the seller claims that “everything is fair” - demand odometer photo and service history. Without these documents, purchasing is risky.

Photo of odometer with date|Comparison of mileage in the sheet and in the photo|Checking the average annual mileage|Request for service history (if any)-->

5. Photos: what to look at first

Photo report is your main tool to check the condition of the car. But 90% of buyers only look at general photos, omitting critical details. Here's what to check:

📸 General rules for viewing photos:

• 🔍 Always ask for high resolution photos (minimum 1024x768). The small pictures do not show any scratches or dents.
• 📏 Check angles: There should be photos from the front, back, side, top (to check the geometry of the body) and bottom (to inspect the bottom).
• 💡 Pay attention to lighting: In bright sun, scratches are not visible, and in the shade, rust is not visible.

🚗 Checklist of critical areas (what should be in the photo):

Zone	What to look for	Signs of Problems
Front bumper	Chips, cracks, signs of repair	Uneven gaps, different colors of bumper and body
Hood	Dents, traces of straightening	Waves on the surface, mismatched gaps
Roof	Hail dents, paint marks	Matte surface (sign of repainting)
Bottom	Rust, traces of welding work	Corrosion on side members, oil stains
Salon	Condition of seats, steering wheel, dashboard	Scuffs on the steering wheel, discrepancy between mileage and wear

🔎 Signs of hidden repairs in the photo:

• 🎨 Different shade of paint on details (for example, the bumper is lighter than the fender).
• 🔧 Uneven gaps between body panels (a sign of straightening).
• 💧 Traces of sealant at the joints (may mean replacing the part).
• 🔥 Burns or melting on the wires (a sign of a short circuit).

Example:

In the photo Mazda CX-5 You can see that the right headlight is slightly higher than the left one, and the gap between the headlight and the fender is uneven. This 100% sign of replacing a headlight after an accident. Even if the rating on the sheet is “5”, such a car requires additional verification.

6. Additional documents: what should be attached to the sheet

The auction sheet is only piece of information. To get the full picture, ask the seller or auctioneer for the following documents:

📄 Service History:

• 🔧 Shows how often maintenance was carried out and what work was performed.
• 📅 Especially important for cars with mileage >100,000 km.
• ⚠️ If there is no story, this is a reason to doubt the honesty of the run.

📋 Inspection Report:

• 🔍 May contain data on the condition of the engine, gearbox, suspension.
• 📉 Sometimes it indicates hidden problems, which are not visible in the photo.

📑 Export Declaration (Export Certificate):

• 🚢 Confirms that the car was legally exported from the country.
• 🔍 The declaration may indicate real mileage (sometimes different from the auction sheet).

📊 VIN inspection report (CarVertical, Carfax):

• 🔍 Shows accident history, number of owners, leasing data.
• 💰 Costs ~500–1000 rubles, but can save tens of thousands on repairs.

What to do if there are no documents?

⚠️ Attention: If the seller refuses to provide a service history or VIN report, this red flag. He is probably hiding something (mismileage, accident or criminal history of the car).

7. Common mistakes when reading an auction sheet

Even experienced shoppers sometimes miss important details. Here TOP-5 errorsthat lead to the purchase of a problematic car:

❌ Mistake 1: Focusing on Grade Only

Many people believe that “5” is always good, and “3” is always bad. Actually an assessment without context means nothing. For example:

• 🚗 Car with a rating of “5” and a code R (repair after an accident) worse than “3.5” with code A0 (no damage).
• 💰 At some auctions, “4.5” with a full history is better than “5” without documents.

❌ Mistake 2: Ignoring damage codes

If there are codes in the sheet S (serious accident) or W (flood), but the seller says that “everything is fine” - don't believe it. These codes mean that the car guaranteed to require deep verification.

❌ Mistake 3: Relying on mileage without checking

Mileage Not Verified or sharp jumps (for example, from 150,000 to 120,000 km) - this is a clear sign of twisting. Always check the mileage with the condition of the interior and technical documents.

❌ Mistake 4: Viewing only shared photos

If there are no photos in the photo report bottom, roof, body panel joints - ask for additional photos. Otherwise, you risk buying a car with rust or poorly repaired.

❌ Mistake 5: Buying without checking the VIN

Even if the sheet looks perfect, always check the VIN through CarVertical or Carfax. There are cases when a car is reported stolen or has unpaid fines in Japan.

FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions

❓ How to distinguish original paint from repainting from a photo?

The original paint has a uniform gloss and color. Signs of repainting:

• 🎨 Different shade on neighboring parts (for example, the hood is lighter than the wing).
• 🔍 Matte spots or “orange peel” (irregularities on the paintwork).
• 📏 Uneven gaps between panels (a sign of straightening).

For an accurate check, use paint thickness gauge (but this is only possible with personal inspection).

❓ What to do if there are no damage codes on the sheet?

The absence of codes does not guarantee that they did not exist. Possible reasons:

• 📝 The auctioneer did not indicate minor defects (such as scratches).
• 🔧 The car underwent “cosmetic” repairs before the auction.
• 🚗 The car is new or with minimal mileage (no codes required).

Anyway request a photo report and, if possible, order diagnostics.

❓ Can you trust the auctioneer’s assessment?

The auctioneer's assessment is subjective opinion, not a guarantee of condition. For example:

• On USS grades are stricter than JAA.
• Some auctioneers inflate estimates to attract buyers.
• The rating does not take into account hidden problems (such as corrosion under seals).

Always double-check the data based on photos, VIN and technical documents.

❓ How to check if the car was leased or taxied?

Signs of commercial use:

• 🚖 Mileage >200,000 km in 3–4 years.
• 🪑 Heavy wear on seats, steering wheel, gearshift lever.
• 📄 The service history contains records of frequent maintenance with minimal mileage (a sign of leasing).
• 🔍 There may be taxi depot stickers on the body (sometimes they are removed, but traces remain).

For an accurate check, use the VIN report.

❓ Is it worth buying a car with a rating of “3” or lower?

Depends on the purpose of the purchase:

• 🚗 If you need reliable car for many years — it is better to avoid ratings below “4”.
• 🔧 If you're willing to invest in renovations, "3" could be a bargain (for resale after restoration, for example).
• ⚠️ A score of “2” or lower usually means serious problems (corrosion, engine in poor condition, violation of body geometry).

Before buying such a car necessarily carry out a complete diagnosis.