Modern construction is impossible to imagine without reliable waterproofing, and bitumen-polymer materials occupy a leading position here. rubemast It is an improved analogue of the classic ruberoid, which has increased elasticity and durability. Its main difference lies in the modified bitumen binder, which does not crack in the cold and does not flow at high temperatures.
Many home craftsmen wonder how to properly lay a rubemast so that the roof or foundation will last for decades without leaks. The installation technology has its own nuances, ignoring which can negate all efforts. In this article, we will discuss in detail each stage of work, from surface preparation to finish inspection of seams.
The main advantage of the material is the ability to fuse it on the base or fix it mechanically, as well as glue it to the mastic. rubemast Excellent for flat roofs, foundations and inter-storey floors. The correct choice of the method of laying depends on the type of base and operating conditions of the structure.
Material characteristics and scope of application
Before you start working, you need to understand what kind of material you are dealing with. rubemast - is a roll material consisting of a durable fiberglass or cardboard base impregnated with a bitumen-polymer composition. The lower side of the canvas is often covered with a light-melting polymer film, which protects bitumen during storage and serves as an indicator when heated.
The scope of this waterproofing device is wide: from the arrangement of roofs of industrial buildings to the protection of the foundations of private houses. The material withstands significant temperature changes, retaining its properties in the range from -15 to +80 degrees Celsius. This makes it a versatile solution for climate zones with unstable weather.
⚠️ Note: Do not use cardboard-based rubemast for waterproofing foundations exposed to high hydrostatic pressure. For such purposes, only fiberglass-based materials are suitable.
It is important to distinguish between the labeling of the material, as it indicates the scope of application. For example, the letter “K” in the designation indicates that the material is intended for the roof, and “P” – for the lining layers. Polymer additives in the composition of bitumen significantly increase the service life of the coating, preventing aging and cracking.
When choosing rolls, pay attention to the thickness of the protective sprinkle. For the upper layer of the roof, a material with coarse-grained sprinkle is used, which protects bitumen from ultraviolet light. The lower layers can be made with a film coating or a fine sprinkle, which provides better adhesion between the layers.
Preparation of the basis and calculation of materials
The quality of laying ruberoid materials for 90% depends on the preparation of the base. The surface should be absolutely clean, dry and flat. The presence of dust, dirt or oil stains dramatically reduces adhesion, which in the future will lead to detachment of waterproofing and the formation of bubbles.
If there are cracks or potholes on the base, they must be sealed with cement mortar or special repair compounds. Large differences in altitude are unacceptable, since when heated, the material can repeat the relief and a gap occurs in places of tension. ground-breaker The primer surface is a mandatory step that provides the base with dust and improves adhesion.
- 🧹 Carefully clean the surface of debris, leaves and old peeling waterproofing.
- 💧 Make sure that the base humidity does not exceed 4-5%, otherwise the water will turn into steam and ooze the coating.
- 🖌️ Apply the bitumen primer with a uniform layer and let it dry completely (usually 2-4 hours).
The amount of material is calculated taking into account the covers. Standard overhang length is 10-15 cm, and width - 8-10 cm. It is also necessary to lay a margin of 5-10% for trimming and possible errors during installation. Accurate calculation This will help to avoid a situation where there is not enough material in the midst of work.
Essential tools and remedies
For high-quality laying of rubemast requires a specific set of tools. The main working tool is a gas burner with a propane cylinder. It allows you to evenly warm the bitumen layer to a state of melting. Using open fire requires extreme caution and compliance with fire safety regulations.
In addition to the burner, you will need a rolling hook that allows you to work without leaning low to the ground, and a spatula for pressing the seams. For cutting the material suitable durable knife or axe. Don’t forget to prepare workwear: tight gloves, shoes with non-slip soles and clothes made of natural fabrics.
| Tool. | Appointment | Importance |
|---|---|---|
| Gas burner | Heating of the bitumen layer | Critical. |
| Hook-roller | Rolling roll | Tall. |
| Spaler | Seam rolling | Medium |
| Knife/Axe | Unlock the material | Tall. |
Pay special attention to the protection of the hands and respiratory organs. When heated, bitumen emits a specific smell, so work in a respirator is desirable, especially in closed or poorly ventilated spaces. Heatproof gloves protect the skin from accidental splashes of hot bitumen, which can cause serious burns.
Floating technology
Floating is the most common and reliable way of installing rubemast on concrete and metal bases. The essence of the method is to heat the lower layer of the material before melting the bitumen, after which the roll is rolled to the base. It is important to observe the temperature regime: unheated bitumen will not stick, and overheated bitumen will lose its properties.
The process begins with rolling the first roll for fitting and subsequent cutting off the excess. The roll is then rolled back to the middle. Heating is produced simultaneously on the surface of the base and on the material itself, leading the burner fan-like movements. When the bitumen becomes glossy and starts to smoke slightly, you can start rolling.
☑️ Floating algorithm
The movement of the master should be progressive, he moves backwards, rolling the material. It is important to monitor the formation of a roller of bitumen before the edge of the rolling canvas - this is main indicator of the correct temperature. If there is no roller, then the heating is not enough, and adhesion will not occur.
⚠️ Warning: It is strictly forbidden to heat the material at one point for too long. This can cause bitumen to ignite or the base to break down, making the material useless.
The adjacent lanes are laid with mandatory overlap. The joint is heated especially carefully, and the protruding bitumen from under the seam should be immediately smoothed by a spatula, creating a sealed "lock". Quality of stitches It determines the water resistance of the entire system.
Mechanical method and laying on mastic
It is not always possible or necessary to use an open flame. In such cases, a mechanical fastener or cold method on the mastic is used. The mechanical method is often used for wooden bases or in repairing old roofs where the use of a burner is dangerous.
When mechanically fastening, the fabrics are nailed or screwed to the base with a step that provides a tight fit. Usually used special nails with wide hats or screws with press washers. Places of fastenings are necessarily overlapped with the next layer or sealed with bitumen mastic.
Laying on mastic (cold method) requires applying the adhesive composition on the base with a toothed spatula. Bitumen mastic dry for a certain time, so it is important to maintain a pause before sticking the canvas, specified by the manufacturer. This method is less productive, but safer and allows you to work in hard-to-reach places.
When working with mastic on vertical surfaces, use fast-drying compounds so that the material does not slide down until the moment of grasping.
Often these methods are combined: the main planes are fused, and adjoining and complex nodes are smeared with mastic or fixed mechanically. This approach allows you to achieve maximum reliability of the structure, taking into account the features of each section of the roof or foundation.
Design of adjoining and complex nodes
The most vulnerable places of any waterproofing are places adjacent to vertical surfaces, pipes and ventilation shafts. This requires special approach and care. Just wrap the material at an angle is not enough, since in a right corner when cooling, the bitumen can crack.
The "galtel" method is used to design adjoining. In the corner of the junction of the floor and the wall, a triangular bar or a special profile is laid, which smooths the right angle. On this profile is fused the main layer of waterproofing with a vertical surface.
- 📐 Make a pattern of material to bypass the pipe, taking into account the flyovers on all sides.
- 🔥 Carefully warm the end of the material and the vertical surface before sticking.
- 🛡️ Install a metal apron or clamping bar on top to fix the edge.
The upper edge of the material on the vertical is necessarily fixed with a metal clamping bar and sealed with mastic. This prevents water from flowing under waterproofing during heavy oblique rain or snow melting. Hermetization It must be made with a margin of safety.
How to work in the winter?
Working with rubemast in winter is possible, but difficult. Pre-heating of the base, the use of greenhouses and work in the daytime is required. Bitumen in the cold cold colds faster, so the speed of operation should be higher than usual.
Typical errors and quality control
Even experienced craftsmen can make mistakes that manifest themselves over time. The most common problem is the formation of bubbles between the layers. This is due to poor warming, wet base or the presence of air that was not driven out during rolling.
Another common mistake is insufficient overhang or poor boiling of seams. Water, caught under such a layer, will walk throughout the roof area, and find the place of leakage will be extremely difficult. Visual control Each stitch is required immediately after laying.
Ignoring the base priming leads to the fact that the material exfoliates the layers. The primer penetrates the pores of concrete, binding dust and creating a sticky layer. Without this stage, adhesion is provided only by mechanical adhesion, which is not enough for long-term waterproofing.
The quality of waterproofing directly depends on the purity of the base and the uniformity of heating of the bitumen layer.
After completion of the work, an inspection must be carried out. Visually inspect the entire surface for swelling, detachment and unheated areas. If defects are found, they should be eliminated immediately until the material has cooled completely.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I put a rubemast on an old ruberoid?
Yes, this is possible if the old coating is firmly held on the base, does not have bloating and rot. The old layer must be cleaned, dried and thoroughly heated before melting the new. If the old ruberoid is destroyed, it is better to completely dismantle it.
How many layers of rubemast do I need to lay?
The number of layers depends on the slope of the roof and reliability requirements. For flat roofs, 2-3 layers are usually laid. On pitched roofs with an angle of more than 15 degrees, one quality layer is often enough, but it is better to follow the project recommendations.
What temperature can I work at?
The recommended air temperature is from +5 to +25 degrees Celsius. At lower temperatures, bitumen cools too quickly, making installation difficult. In hot weather, the material can become too fluid, so it is better to work in the morning or evening.
What is the difference between rubemast and ruberoid?
Rubemast contains polymer additives (modifiers) in bitumen, which make it more elastic, frost-resistant and durable. The usual ruberoid ages faster and cracks in the cold.