With the onset of autumn rainfall and an increase in the level of groundwater, owners of private houses often face the problem of high humidity in basements. Raw cellar This is not just puddles on the floor, it is a real threat to the safety of the crop and the structures of the building. Moisture destroys brickwork, causes corrosion of metal elements and creates an ideal environment for the reproduction of mold and putrefactive bacteria.
If you ignore hygroscopicity materials from which the storage is built, by winter you will get an unusable space with musty air. The process of getting rid of excess moisture requires an integrated approach and an understanding of the physical processes of evaporation. The air temperature during drying should not exceed 30-40 degrees Celsius, so as not to damage the waterproofing of the bitumen type.
In this article, we will discuss in detail time-tested and modern drainage methods. You will learn how to use a brazier, heat gun or folk remedies like quicklime to achieve dry walls and floors.
Preparation of the premises for drainage
Before proceeding to active actions to remove moisture, it is necessary to conduct a thorough audit and preparation of the space. You can not just turn on the heater in the basement filled with boxes - this will not give results. First, you need to completely free the cellar from the stocks of vegetables, pickles and wooden structures, such as shelves and racks.
Wooden elements are better to take out to fresh air for drying under the sun, since in a confined space they will only give the accumulated moisture back to the air. Metal parts should be inspected for corrosion and cleaned if necessary, as rust under the influence of high temperature during drying can progress faster.
- 🧹 Carefully sweep the floor and walls, removing dust, last year's debris and visible foci of mold.
- 🔍 Check ventilation ducts for blockages, animal nests, or fallen foliage that block air current.
- 🔨 Examine the corners and joints of the walls for cracks through which water from the ground can flow.
- 🪜 Provide free access to all corners of the room for even distribution of heat.
⚠️ Before starting work, be sure to check the level of carbon dioxide and the presence of other dangerous gases. Lower a lit candle into the cellar: if it goes out, the room must be pre-ventilated forcibly, lowering the fan there for several hours.
Drying method using brazier
One of the most ancient and effective ways is to dry the roast. This method is based on the principle of convection: hot air rises upwards, displacing the moist, and through ventilation comes outwards, creating a powerful thrust. To implement it, you will need a metal bucket, brazier or grille, which can be lowered into the cellar.
Fuel is laid in the container, most often charcoal or dry firewood are used. It is important to ensure the supply of oxygen for combustion, so the door or hatch is left slightly ajar, and a valve is inserted into the exhaust pipe to adjust the thrust. The process takes from a few hours to several days depending on the volume of the room.
The key here is temperature control. Excessive heating can lead to cracking of concrete or detachment of plaster. Air circulation It should be constant, so you need to periodically check the intensity of combustion and apply fuel.
Use of a heat gun or heater
The modern alternative to open fire is electric heat guns, convectors or oil radiators. This method is considered safer from the point of view of fire danger, but requires a stable power supply in the cellar. Electrical. heater It allows you to control the temperature accurately and does not consume oxygen as intensely as an open fire.
When using a heat gun, it is important to direct the flow of warm air along the walls to warm them evenly. If you just warm the center of the room, moisture in the corners and behind the shelves will remain, which will lead to the formation of condensation when cooling. It is recommended to combine heating with the work of the fan to mix air masses.
The effectiveness of the method directly depends on the power of the device and the quality of wall insulation. If the cellar has a direct connection with the ground and the walls freeze, instant heating can cause the effect of "thermos", when moisture will condense in cold areas. Therefore heat-treatment It should be long and smooth.
Calculation of equipment capacity
For effective drying of 1 cubic meter of room volume, approximately 30-40 W of thermal power is required. For example, for a standard cellar with a volume of 20 cubic meters. You will need a heat gun with a capacity of about 1-1.5 kW.
Chemical and folk methods of adsorption
When mechanical moisture removal is completed or dryness maintenance is required for preventive purposes, adsorbents come to the rescue. These substances are able to absorb water molecules from the air, turning into other compounds or simply accumulating moisture in their structure. The most famous folk method is the use of quicklime.
Boxes with lime are placed at the corners and center of the room. When reacting with moisture, the lime turns into fluff (quenched lime) and heats up, which further contributes to evaporation. Also effective is the use of calcium chloride, which after saturation with moisture can be restored by calcination.
Salt of large grinding, decomposed in containers, also works as an excellent drainage. It not only takes away excess moisture, but also creates an environment unfavorable for the development of microorganisms. After use, the salt can be calcined in a pan and used again.
- 🧂 Pour a layer of salt 5-7 cm thick into wide basins and place them around the perimeter.
- 🪵 Use wood ash, which absorbs odors and dampness perfectly, but requires frequent replacement.
- 📦 Silica gel fillers (in large bags) are suitable for small cellars-caessons.
- 🔥 Combine lime with airing for maximum effect in wet weather.
Ventilation arrangements for moisture removal
No drying method will work effectively without a well-organized air exchange system. Moisture should not only evaporate, but also be removed from the room. Natural ventilation works by the difference in temperatures, but in the autumn period, when the temperatures inside and outside are leveled, the thrust may disappear.
For forced drying, a scheme is often used when a fan is installed in the exhaust pipe. It creates a thinning by pulling moist air outwards, and fresh air enters through the supply pipe. The diameter of the pipes should correspond to the volume of the room: usually 1 cm of pipe diameter per 1 meter of floor area.
It is important to place the pipe holes correctly. The supply pipe should be 20-30 cm from the floor so that cold air runs down, displacing the warm. The exhaust pipe takes air from under the ceiling, where the wettest and warmest flow accumulates. Adjustment plug-in It allows you to control the flow rate.
| Parameter | Natural ventilation | Forced ventilation | Combined |
|---|---|---|---|
| Efficiency | Low (depending on the weather) | Tall. | Medium/High |
| Energy costs | 0 rub. | Electricity consumption | Periodic expenditure |
| Difficulty of installation | Minimum | Requires electricians. | Medium |
| Drying speed | Long (weeks) | Fast (days) | Optimal. |
☑️ Verification of the ventilation system
Fighting mold and fungus after drying
Once the walls are dry, relax early. Mold spores could remain in microcracks and at the first opportunity resume growth. The final step should always be disinfection. Special antiseptic primers or folk remedies are used, such as a solution of copper sulfur.
The solution is prepared at the rate of 100 grams of sulfur per 10 liters of warm water. The resulting liquid is abundantly sprayed or smeared all surfaces, paying special attention to the corners and joints. Antiseptic treatment It creates a protective layer that prevents biological damage.
You can also use a sulfur checker, but this method requires extreme caution. When burning, the checker emits sulfur dioxide, which kills any microflora, but is deadly to humans. The room should be hermetically closed for a day, and then thoroughly ventilated.
⚠️ Warning: When working with copper sulfur or sulfur checkers, be sure to use a respirator and protective gloves. Chemical vapors can cause burns to the mucous membranes and serious poisoning.
After treatment with copper sulfur, allow the walls to dry completely and whiten them with quenched lime with the addition of the same sulfur - this will create a double protective barrier.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How long does it take to dry the cellar completely?
Time depends on the method and the initial state. When using a brazier or heat gun, the process takes from 2 to 5 days. Natural drying can take several weeks. It is critically important not to rush the moisture out of the depths of the walls, not just from the surface.
Can I dry the cellar with a gas burner?
The use of open gas burners is not recommended. First, it burns all the oxygen, making the room dangerous to descend. Second, the gas combustion products contain water vapor, which can have the opposite effect of moistening the walls instead of draining them.
How do you know if the cellar is completely dry?
Use a hygrometer to measure humidity – the norm for storing vegetables is 80-90%, but the walls should be dry to the touch. You can also glue a piece of polyethylene to the wall with tape: if there is no condensation under it after a day, the wall is dry.
Do I need to whitewash the cellar after drying?
Yes, whitewashing with slapped lime is a great finishing stage. Lime has bactericidal properties and additionally dries the air, absorbing residual moisture. This is the standard procedure for preparing the storage for winter.
The main secret of a dry cellar is not only a single drying, but also constant humidity control and regular ventilation throughout the year.