Creating a knitted product is only half the way to success, because the final look of the thing directly depends on how well the individual parts are assembled. Many knitters put off assembly for years, fearing to spoil the work, but it is neat seams that distinguish professional work from amateur work. Properly selected connection technique allows you to maintain the elasticity of the canvas and make the joints invisible.
There are many ways to connect parts, and the choice of a particular method depends on the type of yarn, knitting density, and the desired decorative effect. Some seams are designed for complete invisibility, while others, on the contrary, create a relief scar that becomes part of the design. Understanding the mechanics of each will allow you to choose the best tool for any task.
Before picking up a needle, it is important to prepare the workplace and make sure all the parts are steamed and lie flat. The tension of the thread during crosslinking should be identical to the tension of the hinges in the main canvas, otherwise wrinkles or, conversely, holes are formed at the junction. This balance comes with practice, but knowing the basic rules will greatly speed up the learning process.
Selection of tools and preparation of materials
The quality of the assembly depends on what you work for. For connecting parts, it is best to use a special knitting-needle It has a blunt tip, which does not split the threads or puncture the fibers, but gently passes through the loops. The use of a sharp sewing needle can lead to rupture of the yarn and the appearance of unaesthetic puffs on the front side of the product.
The thread for crosslinking should be identical to the main yarn in composition and color, so that the seam does not stand out. However, if you use fluffy or fuzzy yarn, it is sometimes advisable to take a thread of the same thickness but smoother and stronger, such as mercerized cotton, so that the seam is strong and not flickered. The length of the working thread should not be too large so that it does not wear out during the work.
Use a thread wound from the same rod as for knitting, but from the opposite end of the tangle - this ensures a complete match of hue, even if the yarn is painted in different batches.
Particular attention should be paid to the preparation of the edges of the details. Before starting work, you need to make sure that the edge loops are not tightened and stretched. If you have knitted samples, compare the density of the seam with the density of the main cloth. For thin yarn, needle No. 2 or No. 3 is suitable, and for volumetric wool, a larger tool will be required to make the seam elastic.
- 🧶 Dumb needle with wide eye for thick yarn
- 🧶 Smooth thread in tone of the main product
- 🧶 Pitching pins
- 🧶 Markers for marking cross-linking sites
Fallow seam for connecting side sections
One of the most popular and invisible ways to connect vertical sections is the uterine suture. It is ideal for sewing the side parts of sweaters, pockets and sleeves, as it completely imitates the structure of the knitted fabric. The essence of the method is to capture the draws between the edge and the first loops on each side.
To perform this seam, the details are folded with the front sides upwards, aligning the edges. The needle is introduced under the first horizontal thread (bar) of the edge loop of one part, then under the corresponding jumper on the second part. It is important not to capture the edge loop itself, but to work strictly with the drawers inside the canvas so that the seam remains flat.
☑️ The algorithm of the mother-smud
The key is the strength of the thread. If you pull too hard, the seam will pull the product and form an ugly comb. If the swelling is weak, there will be a noticeable gap. Experienced craftsmen recommend after every 3-4 stitches to slightly tighten the working thread, checking the result for the lumen.
⚠️ Attention: When stitching parts from mohair or angora, try not to capture the fluff in the seam, otherwise the connection will be rough and rigid. Carefully move the villi with your fingers before each puncture.
Knitted seam for closing hinges and connecting horizontals
When it is necessary to connect open loops, for example, when stitching shoulder seams or closing the neck loops, a knitted seam is used. This method allows you to recreate a number of knitting, making the seam absolutely indistinguishable from machine mating. The details are placed on the front sides of each other or on top of each other.
The technique requires concentration: the needle passes into the hinges of the front and back spoke (or edge) in a certain sequence. First, the needle is inserted into the first loop of the lower row from right to left, then into the first loop of the upper row from left to right. Next, the algorithm is repeated with displacement, simulating the movement of the knitting needle.
To perform quality ketch-stitch (a type of knitted) it is important that the number of hinges on the connected areas was the same. If knitting density varies, it may be necessary to reduce or add loops before stitching to avoid the wavy edge.
The secret to seam elasticity
To avoid breaking the seam when wearing, do not tighten the thread too tightly. Periodically stretch the cross-linked area to the sides, helping the loops to spread and take the desired shape.
This type of connection is often used to sew cuffs and collars to the main product. Properly executed, it creates the effect of knitting continuity, which is especially appreciated in the classic models of sweaters and jumpers.
Connecting details with different pattern and texture
Difficulties arise when it is necessary to connect areas with different patterns, for example, iron and rubber band, or parts from different thickness of yarn. In such cases, standard methods may fail, creating steps or thickenings. Here comes to the rescue seam "across the edge" with pre-treatment of slices.
If the textures are very different, decorative seams can be used that turn the need for a joint into a design element. For example, a contrast thread and a back needle seam will create a visible scar that levelles the transition between textures. The main thing is to observe the symmetry and uniformity of the step.
| Type of connection | Where applicable | Visibility of the seam | Elasticity |
|---|---|---|---|
| The uterine suture | Side seams, sleeves. | Invisible. | Tall. |
| Knitted | Shoulders, neck | Invisible. | Medium |
| Back the Needle seam | Shoulder stitches (strengthening) | Widen (scar) | Low. |
| ketel | Sewing of slats | Invisible. | Tall. |
When working with relief patterns, such as braids or aranas, try to hold the needle along the backside without affecting the convex elements of the pattern. This will preserve the volume and beauty of the pattern, leaving the seam functional but hidden.
Working with delicate and fluffy yarns
Knitting from mohair, alpaca or silk requires special delicacy. The pile of such threads easily gets tangled in the seam, making it rigid and noticeable. For such materials, the method of stitching the "loop into a loop" on weight is often used, without chipping with pins, which can damage the delicate fibers.
If you're working with sectionalWhere the color changes every few centimeters, it is important to monitor the docking of the color transitions at the seams. Sometimes it makes sense to stitch the parts together with a primary color thread, even if it is slightly different, so as not to create chaotic spots at the joints.
For very thin silk or Kid Mohair, the method of "Italian set" can be used when stitching, when the edges of the parts are first hooked and then connected. This adds the necessary density to the edge and facilitates the crosslinking process.
⚠️ Warning: Never use knots to fasten the thread on the front of thin yarn products. Hide the ends of the threads, weaving them into the structure of the seam for 5-7 centimeters so that they do not slip out when wearing.
Common Errors and How to Resolve Them
Even experienced knitters sometimes make mistakes when assembling products. The most common of them is a too tight seam that tightens the canvas and violates the draping of the fabric. If you notice that the seam is a wave or is going to harmonica, it is better to tie this area, relaxing the tension.
Another common problem is the displacement of parts when stitching. To avoid this, it is necessary to first chip the parts with pins or use a contrasting color thread for temporary sweeping. Pay special attention to the docking of the pattern: the stripes or pattern should continue through the seam without tearing.
The ideal seam should be elastic, like the knitted canvas itself, and withstand stretching without breaking the thread.
If the seam is still noticeable, you can try to steam it through a wet fabric to fluff the fibers and hide the thread. However, this method does not work with all types of yarn, so it is better to immediately pay maximum attention to the technique of execution.
Finishing and wet-heat treatment
After all the parts are sewn, the product must be brought into the presentation. Wet-heat treatment (WTO) helps to align the weld loops and make them indistinguishable from the main cloth. Wool products are steamed off with an iron, without touching the sole fabric, and acrylic simply moisturize and allow to dry in the straightened form.
Synthetic threads can shrink less than natural wool, so when combining materials, always do a preliminary test on the sample. This will save the finished thing from deformation.
The final step is the removal of all temporary threads and pruning of the tails. Make sure the ends of the threads are safely hidden inside the seam. For additional fixation, you can drop a drop of textile glue on the nodule if the product is planned to be washed often.
Can I sew knitted products with ordinary sewing thread?
It is not recommended to use ordinary sewing thread, since it does not have the necessary elasticity and can burst when stretching the knitted fabric. In addition, it can rub delicate wool or cotton yarn. It is better to use the thread from which the product is connected, or a special wool.
How to sew a sleeve if it does not converge a little along the length of the doorway?
If the difference is small, you can evenly distribute the excess or lack of length along the entire length of the sleeve pellet, slightly planting or stretching the fabric. If the difference is significant, you will have to tie the sleeve or recalculate the sleeves, since the forcibly sewn sleeve will pull the product and deform the shoulder seam.
Which seam is better for a sock heel?
For the heel of the sock, where maximum strength is required, a "back needle" seam or a special flat seam that does not rub the leg is often used. Knitted seam is less preferred here because of the less wear resistance in the high friction zone.