Reliable waterproofing of a roof or foundation is not just a recommendation, but a necessity that extends the life of a building for decades. Modern developers often choose built-up materials, including roofing felt and its more advanced analogues occupy leading positions. However, choosing the material is only half the battle; Proper installation becomes a critical step.
If you are wondering how to properly place Rubemast to avoid leaks and blisters in the future, this article will be a comprehensive guide for you. We will look at the nuances of surface preparation, features of working with a gas burner, and typical mistakes that even experienced craftsmen make. Rubemast differs from the classic roofing material in a thicker layer of bitumen overlay mixture, which makes it more elastic and durable.
The installation process requires attention to detail and adherence to temperature conditions. Ignoring technology at the stage of gluing the first layer can negate all efforts and financial costs. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to carefully study the sequence of actions and prepare the appropriate tool.
Characteristics of rubemast and difference from roofing material
Understanding the structure of the material helps to avoid mistakes during its installation. Rubemast often confused with ordinary roofing felt, but these are different products with different performance properties. The base of rubemast is fiberglass or cardboard impregnated with petroleum bitumen, but the key difference lies in the mass of the lower deposited layer.
Unlike roofing felt, where the bitumen layer is thin and often requires additional mastic for high-quality adhesion, rubemast has a thickened layer of bitumen binder at the bottom. This allows it to fit tightly to uneven surfaces without creating voids. The top layer of the material is protected by a coarse-grained coating, which protects the bitumen from the destructive effects of ultraviolet radiation.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use rubemast with a cardboard base for waterproofing foundations in winter, as cardboard is less elastic at low temperatures and can crack at the bend.
For a professional assessment of the differences, it is convenient to use the comparison table:
| Parameter | Ruberoid | Rubemast | Euroroofing material |
|---|---|---|---|
| Base | Cardboard | Fiberglass/cardboard | Fiberglass/Polyester |
| Bitumen mass (g/sq.m) | 500-800 | 1500-2500 | 2500-5000 |
| Service life | 5-10 years | 10-15 years | 20-30 years |
| Elasticity | Low | Average | High |
When choosing between these materials, it is important to consider the load on the structure and climatic conditions. For temporary buildings or utility facilities, ordinary roofing felt is often sufficient, but for capital construction of residential buildings the thickness of the bitumen layer of rubemast ensures better tightness of joints. This is especially true for flat roofs where water stagnates.
Preparing the base and necessary tools
The quality of adhesion of the waterproofing carpet to the base directly depends on the thoroughness of the preparatory work. The surface must be absolutely dry, clean and level. When heated, the presence of moisture under the bitumen layer will turn into steam, which will rupture the material or create bubbles that break the seal.
First you need to remove all debris, dust and oil stains. If there are cracks or potholes on the concrete screed, they should be repaired with cement mortar or special repair compounds. Sharp protrusions and sagging concrete need to be knocked down, as they can damage the integrity of the canvas during rolling.
To ensure perfect adhesion, the surface is treated primer (bitumen primer). This is a liquid solution of bitumen in a solvent that penetrates the pores of concrete and binds dust residues. The primer can be applied with a brush, roller or spray, allowing it to dry completely before starting the main work.
☑️ Preparation for styling
In addition to preparing the surface, you need to assemble a set of tools. You will need a gas burner with a cylinder, a roofing knife, a spatula, a rolling roller and overalls. Pay special attention to gloves - bitumen reaches high temperatures when heated, and hand burns are the most common injury on site.
Laying technology: step-by-step process
The fusing process itself requires adherence to a clear algorithm of actions. The roll is rolled out over the surface to level it and allow it to rest if the material was stored in the cold. Then one end of the roll is fixed and heating of the lower layer of bitumen with a burner flame begins.
The movement of the burner should be uniform, zigzag, in order to heat the entire width of the canvas, but not to overheat it. Overheating leads to bitumen draining and thinning of the protective layer, and underheating leads to a lack of adhesion. You need to focus on the indicator film: when it burns completely, the bitumen is ready for gluing.
The master slowly rolls the roll forward while simultaneously pressing it to the base. It is important to ensure that there is no air left under the canvas. Immediately after laying, the material must be rolled with a heavy roller or a special roller, moving from the center to the edges to squeeze out air bubbles.
Use a hook with a pointed end to roll out the roll - this will allow you to keep your distance from the burner flame and avoid getting burned.
When laying the second and subsequent layers (if a multi-layer cake is required), it is important to observe overlap. The side overlap is usually 8-10 cm, and the end overlap is 15 cm. The joints require special attention: they need to be additionally heated and pressed tightly with a spatula to prevent water from flowing in.
⚠️ Attention: When working with a gas burner in windy weather, the flame may be blown away, which leads to uneven heating. In such cases it is necessary to use windbreaks.
Design of junctions and complex nodes
The most vulnerable places of any roof are the junctions with vertical surfaces, parapets, pipes and ventilation shafts. Here the laying technology changes: you cannot simply fuse the material at a right angle, since a crack will form at the bend point due to temperature deformations.
To design such nodes, the fillet method is used. A triangular block is placed in the junction corner or a leveling screed is made from cement mortar at an angle of 45 degrees. This allows you to smooth out the transition and lay the rubemast without sharp creases.
The upper part of the junction must be covered with a metal apron (crimp strip), which is fixed with dowels. The seam between the metal and the waterproofing is carefully coated with bitumen sealant. This design provides mechanical protection and tightness of the unit.
How to make a fillet with your own hands?
To create a fillet, you can use wooden blocks impregnated with an antiseptic, or a special heat-insulating wedge. If cement mortar is used, it must be completely dry before fusing the material, otherwise moisture will ruin the waterproofing.
The material around the communication pipes is cut out in a special way. An additional layer of waterproofing is often used, which is fused to the vertical part of the pipe. The edges of such a “glass” are fixed with metal clamps.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even knowing the theory, beginners often make practical mistakes, which appear only after the first rain or after a season of operation. One of the most common problems is poor overlap adhesion. This happens when the master forgets to clear the joint area of the coating before heating.
Another mistake is over-tensioning the canvas. Rubemast - material that should lie freely, with minimal folds, but without tension. If you pull cold material too hard, it will shrink when heated by the sun and may tear away from the edges or tear at the fixation points.
- ❌ Lack of primer: leads to detachment of the material from the concrete base.
- ❌ Laying on a wet base: causes bubbles to swell due to moisture evaporation.
- ❌ Small overlap: increases the risk of leakage at the joints of the canvas.
- ❌ Ignoring weather conditions: installation at temperatures below -5°C without heating the material makes it brittle.
It is also worth mentioning the mistake of saving on the number of layers. For flat roofs with high operational load, one layer of rubemast may not be enough. In such cases waterproofing carpet should consist of two or more layers, where the bottom serves as a lining and the top as protection.
The quality of waterproofing depends 80% on the preparation of the base and compliance with the temperature conditions during fusing, and not just on the brand of material.
Safety measures during work
Working with open fire and bituminous materials is classified as a fire hazard. Having a fire extinguisher on the roof or in the work area is a mandatory safety requirement. It is also necessary to monitor the integrity of gas hoses and connections to prevent propane leakage.
The master's personal safety is also at risk. Bitumen fumes are toxic, so you should wear a respirator when working. Clothing should be made of thick fabric that covers all parts of the body, and shoes should have non-slip soles, since heated bitumen on the roof turns into a skating rink.
⚠️ Attention: It is prohibited to work alone at height without a safety belt. Having a second person is necessary for backup and quick assistance in case of fire or injury.
When storing rolls, they should be in an upright position away from heating devices. An attempt to defrost frozen rubemast with an open fire is strictly prohibited - this can lead to ignition of the packaging and the material itself.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to put rubemast on old roofing felt?
Technically, this is possible if the old coating holds firmly and does not have swelling or tears. However, experts recommend completely dismantling the old layer. The new material fits better on the prepared concrete base, and you will be sure that there are no hidden defects under the new carpet.
At what temperature can rubemast be laid?
The optimal air temperature for installation is from +5°C to +25°C. At lower temperatures, the material becomes stiff and more difficult to roll out without creasing. If work is unavoidable in winter, the rolls should be stored in a warm room and supplied to the roof as needed, heated with a burner more intensely.
How many layers of rubemast are needed for a reliable roof?
For flat roofs of residential buildings, a two-layer coating is usually used. The first layer (lining) can be without topping, the second (top) - with coarse protection. For outbuildings or temporary solutions, sometimes one layer of high-quality material is enough.
What is the difference between rubemast and bicrost?
Both materials belong to the economy class, but rubemast has a thicker layer of built-up bitumen, which makes it more elastic and easier to install for a beginner. Bikrost often has a fiberglass base, but a lower mass of bitumen binder, which makes it more rigid.