Many people mistakenly believe that digging a pit is a primitive process that does not require special knowledge or training. However, geometry The deepening, safety and choice of the right tool directly affect the result, whether it is the installation of a fence pole, laying the foundation for a garage or planting a large tree. Wrongly calculated ground-deficiency This can cause damage to the structure in the first season.
Before taking a shovel in your hands, you need to conduct a thorough field-finding. This includes searching for underground utilities, determining soil type and groundwater level. Ignoring these factors often leads to emergencies or a significant increase in labor costs. In this article, we will discuss all the nuances of earthworks.
The quality of the work done depends on how accurately you planned the process. The width of the walls is a critical parameter: they should be 10-15 cm wider than the structure itself on each side for ease of installation of formwork or rings. Do not rely on physical strength alone, the right approach saves time and health.
Tool selection and soil assessment
The first step is to find the right inventory. Different types of soils require different approaches. If you have to work with dense clay or rocky soil, an ordinary bayonet shovel will not be enough. In such cases, it is necessary pickaxe or jackhammer for pre-loose. For sandy soils, the main problem is the shedding of the walls, so here the speed of work and strengthening of the edges are more important.
When choosing a shovel, pay attention to the material of the cutting and the size of the bayonet. Wood cuttings better absorb the load on the spine, but the metal is stronger. Optimal. bayonet-width is 20-25 cm: a wider shovel is uncomfortable in a deep hole, and a narrow one reduces performance. Also, do not forget about buckets and a strong rope for lifting the ground if the depth exceeds 1.5 meters.
⚠️ Before starting work, be sure to check the location of gas pipes and electrical cables in the local administration or at the utilities. Damage to the pipeline during digging can lead to catastrophic consequences.
Estimating the density of the soil helps to predict the time of operation. Heavy loams require mandatory loosening with a pickaxe. Supes and sands dig easily, but may require constant wall strengthening with boards to prevent collapse. In rocks without the use of special equipment or explosive work (which requires a license), a manual digging is almost impossible.
Landmarking and planning
Accurate marking is the pledge of flat walls and the correct location of the object. For rectangular pits, use pegs and a construction cord. It's important to geometricalChecking the diagonals: they must be equal. If you dig under the foundation, step back from the boundaries of the future structure at least 50 cm for ease of operation and installation of formwork.
The soil taken out of the pit should be folded at a distance of at least 1 meter from the edge. It prevents it. wall-collapse under the weight of the earth and provides a safe working area. If there is little space, the soil can be taken out immediately or stored further, but it is strictly impossible to leave it on the edge.
☑️ Preparation for earthworks
When planning depth, consider the level of groundwater. If the water is protruding to the bottom during the digging process, it may be necessary to organize a drainage or change the project. In some cases, it is more appropriate to move the object to a drier place than to fight with water.
Technology of the smoke: step-by-step instructions
The process of digging is divided into several stages. First, the fertile layer of soil (about 20-30 cm) is removed, which can be used for landscaping or lawn. Then the main soil sampling begins. Work should be in layers, gradually deepening throughout the area of the pit, and not digging one point to the bottom.
For deep pits (more than 1.3 meters) installation is required strutting or escarpment. The angle of the natural slope for different soils is different: for sand it is about 30-45 degrees, for clay - up to 60 degrees. If the walls are vertical, they should be reinforced with boards or shields as they deepen.
| Type of soil | The necessary tool | Difficulty of the cork | Do you need strengthening? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sand/Supes | A squirt shovel, a scoop | Low. | Definitely (crumbling) |
| Sooglynock/Clay | Kirk, shovel, scrap. | Tall. | Depends on the depth. |
| black-soil | A squirt shovel. | Medium | Rarely. |
| Rocky soil | Scrap, sledgehammer, jack-off | Very high. | No (holds shape) |
Raising the soil from deep pits is carried out with the help of a bucket on a rope. This reduces physical activity and speeds up the process. When working in a pair, one person digs, the second raises the ground and moves it. This cycle allows you to work without stopping for rest.
Moisten too hard dry soil with water a few hours before the start of work - this will significantly soften the ground and facilitate the digging.
Process mechanization: renting equipment
If the work volume is large or the soil is too hard, it makes sense to use the technique. Mini-excavator Or the backhoe loader will cope with the task in a matter of hours. The lease is justified with the volume of earthworks over 10-15 cubic meters. For narrow tranches under communication is used trench-excavator Or a hand-held jamobur.
Yamobur (gasoline or electric) is ideal for installing poles. It creates a hole with flat walls and the desired depth in minutes. However, for wide pits under the foundation or septic tank drill is not suitable - here you need a full-fledged backhoe. It is important to ensure the access of equipment to the place of work.
⚠️ Note: When working in the immediate vicinity of existing buildings or communications, use only a hand-mock or mini-mechanics with a rubber tracked course, so as not to damage the foundation of the neighboring house.
The cost of a machine hour varies, but it is often cheaper than paying several workers for a few days. In addition, the technique allows you to choose the soil immediately in the dump truck, which solves the problem of its storage on the site.
Norms of depth of freezing (SNiP)
In the middle strip of Russia, the depth of soil freezing is 1.2-1.5 meters. The foundations of light buildings (garages, gazebos) are often laid above this mark, but for residential buildings, swelling below the freezing point is required in order to avoid frosty bloating.
Safety techniques in earthworks
The earthworks are fraught with hidden dangers. The main one is groundfall. A person covered with earth can die from suffocation even at a depth of 1 meter, since the pressure of the soil on the chest does not allow you to breathe. Never be at the bottom of a deep pit without fortified walls, if there is a nearby equipment or vibration from the transport.
Use personal protective equipment. WorkshopStrong shoes with a metal sock and gloves are required. When working with rocky soil, protective glasses are required so that the baby does not get into the eyes. Working alone at depths of more than 1.5 meters is prohibited.
Pay special attention to electricity. If work is carried out near the power line or using a power tool in a pit, the risk of electric shock increases due to humidity. All power tools must be connected through CCD (Secure shutdown device).
The biggest mistake is the neglect of strengthening the walls in loose soils. The collapse of 1 cubic meter of land weighs more than 1.5 tons, and it is almost impossible to get out of it on your own.
Wall strengthening and finishing
After reaching the design depth, the bottom of the pit must be leveled and tamped. For foundations, it's done. pillow from sand and rubble layer 10-20 cm. This distributes the load and diverts water. The walls of the pit under a septic tank or cellar are often reinforced with brickwork, concrete rings or wooden shields.
If the hole was digging under the planting of a tree, a drainage layer is laid at the bottom, and the fertile soil is mixed with fertilizers before being backfilled. The backfill of the sinuses of the foundation is made layer by layer with mandatory tarmac Every 20 cm to avoid soil subsidence in the future.
The final step is the cleaning of the territory. All excess soil should be removed or evenly distributed throughout the site. Left heaps of land can become a source of dust or dirt, and prevent the flow of rainwater.
Can I dig a hole in winter?
You can dig a hole in winter, but it is much more difficult. The upper layer (up to 0.5-0.8 m) freezes and requires application pneumohammer Or special equipment with baking teeth. The soil in the frozen state does not crumble, which allows you to make vertical walls without strengthening, but working with frozen earth is very time-consuming.
What to do if the hole is filled with water?
It is necessary to organize a continuous drainage with the help of a pump. If water arrives faster than the pump, a device will be required. château around the pit or using the caisson. In some cases, it is easier to move the construction site.
What is the safe angle of the walls without reinforcement?
Without strengthening, vertical walls can be left only in very dense clay soils and to a shallow depth (up to 1 meter). For loose soils, the slope angle should be at least 45 degrees, and for sand - up to 60 degrees from the horizontal to prevent showering.