The leak of oil from the gearbox or the crankcase of the gasoline trimmer engine is a direct signal of a violation of the tightness of the sealing elements. If you notice oily spots under the tool or see that the lubricant is squeezed outwards during operation, this means that plumbing It has lost its elasticity and needs urgent replacement. Ignoring this problem will lead to washing of the grease from the working units, overheating and rapid destruction of the bearings or piston group.
The main reason for failure of seals is often natural wear of rubber from high temperatures or the entry of abrasive particles under the edge. In some cases, the destruction occurs due to improper assembly or the use of poor-quality lubricant, which aggressively affects the cuff material. It is important to understand that plumbing This is not just cosmetic repair, but a necessary procedure to preserve the life of an expensive power unit.
Before starting disassembly, it is necessary to accurately determine the location of the leak, since there may be several sealing rings on the trimmer. Most often, problems arise with the scalp. crankshaft shaft gearboxwhere the load on friction is maximum. To successfully perform the work, you will need not only a set of tools, but also an understanding of the design of a particular node so as not to damage the landing places during dismantling.
Diagnosis of malfunction and preparation for repair
The first step before any manipulation is to thoroughly clean the surface of the tool from dirt and old lubricant. Only on a clean surface can you accurately localize the source of the leak and understand which one. sealer It requires attention. Often users mistakenly change the glands to the gearbox shaft, although the problem lies in the lid laying or the crankshaft cuff.
To carry out high-quality repairs, you will need a basic set of tools that every owner of garden equipment should have. The lack of specialized tenants can be compensated for by accuracy and the use of improvised means, but the risk of damage to the shaft increases.
- 🛠️ A set of screwdrivers (cross and flat) for removing casings and fastening elements.
- 🔧 Wrecks or heads for unscrewing the bolts of the gearbox and engine attachment.
- 🔨 A hammer and a chisel (or old bearing) to press new elements.
- 🧹 Clean rags and degreaser for the preparation of seats.
Particular attention should be paid to the choice of new components, since the size of the glands may differ even within the same trimmer line. Standard sizes are often indicated in manualeBut the most reliable is to take out the old element and measure it with stangencin or find the marking on the metal clip. Using an inappropriate size seal will result in repeated leakage or jamming of the shaft.
Essential tools and supplies
The quality of the repairs performed depends on the materials and tools used. Don't save on the money. silkBuying cheap analogues of unknown origin, as they can quickly sulphur from heating. It is better to purchase original spare parts or proven analogues from well-known manufacturers of sealing equipment, such as: Corteco or NOK.
In addition to the seals themselves, you will need fresh lubricant for the gearbox and possibly for the crank-shaking mechanism if a deep defect is planned. The type of lubricant should comply with the manufacturer's recommendations, usually specialized formulations with a lithium base or molybdenum disulfide.
It is important to prepare the workplace: the table should be clean and well-lit so that small details do not get lost. For fixing the shaft when unscrewing the nut of a flywheel or rod may require a special stopper or a piece of durable rope inserted into the cylinder through a candle hole.
Before buying new oil oils, be sure to lubricate their working edge with engine oil so that they easier to stand in place and do not get damaged during the first second of engine operation.
Replacement of ossels in trimmer gearbox
Replacement of the gearbox shaft seals is the most common operation, since this unit is subjected to maximum loads and pollution. You should start with the dismantling of the barbell and the removal of the cutting element, after which you need to unscrew the bolts of the mounting of the gearbox body. Carefully disconnect the halves of the body, trying not to lose the gears and needle-shaped ones. bearing.
After the shaft is removed, you will see a gland seat, which is usually knocked out from the inside. Use a thin embroidery or screwdriver to gently knock out the old element without scratching the walls of the aluminum case. Scratches on the landing site can cause leaks even after installing a new seal.
- 🧼 Carefully wash the gearbox body and shaft from old lubricant and metal shavings.
- 👀 Examine the shaft for production (wear) at the point of contact with the working edge of the osel.
- 🆕 Install a new omentum, pressing it evenly throughout the circumference to the point.
- 💧 Put fresh lubricant in the gearbox, filling about 2/3 of the volume.
When assembly, make sure that the obular rose smoothly and without distortion, and its working edge was not damaged during installation. If there is a deep production on the shaft, the installation of a new osteoil may not help - in this case, the shaft needs to be drilled or replaced.
☑️ Checklist of gearbox assembly
Dismantling and installation of crankshaft coils
Replacement of the crankshaft oils is a more complex procedure that requires complete or partial disassembly of the engine. To access the front omentum, it is often enough to remove the flywheel, and for the rear, it may be necessary to dismantle the muffler and carburetor. Before removing the flywheel, be sure to disconnect the high-voltage wire and ignition module to avoid damaging the electronics.
To unscrew the flywheel nut, it is necessary to fix the crankshaft. This can be done with the help of a special stopper-remover or, in extreme cases, carefully inserting a piece of capron cord into the candle hole and prepping the piston. After removing the flywheel, access to the front will open cerealwhich is carefully removed by a thin screwdriver.
⚠️ Note: When installing a new crankshaft coil, it is strictly impossible to strike the metal clip directly. Use a wooden or plastic mandrel of the appropriate diameter, so as not to deform the case of the seal.
The rear oedle is usually located on the flywheel side or under the crankcase cover, and its replacement often requires removing the entire engine from the frame. When installing a new element, it is important not to skew it, as this will lead to an instant leakage violation and air sucking into the engine.
After installing all the elements, assemble the engine in reverse sequence, not forgetting about the moment of tightening the fasteners. Excessive puff can deform the body of the obal, and weak - lead to vibrations and loss of tightness.
Common Replacement Mistakes and Their Consequences
One of the most common mistakes is the installation of dry oedema, which leads to overheating and burning of the working edge in the first minutes of work. The rubber must be oiled to provide initial lubrication before the engine goes into operating mode and creates pressure.
Another common mistake is using inappropriate pressing tools, such as a hammer without a mandrel. Hammer strikes on the metal part of the ossicle often lead to its distortion in the landing place, which makes the replacement meaningless.
How to check the quality of the installation?
Swipe your finger along the end of the installed ossuary - it should be level with the edge of the landing hole or slightly drowned, but do not protrude anywhere and do not have visible distortions.
Ignoring purity during assembly is also fatal: one grain of sand, caught under the working edge, will turn into an abrasive and quickly bring out a new one. sealer out of order. All parts should be perfectly clean before assembly.
Incorrect selection of the size of the osbium by the internal diameter can lead to excessive tension and rupture of the edge during heating, or to free planting and leakage. Always check the labeling on the old and new items.
Comparative table of parameters of galls
When choosing spare parts, it is important to pay attention not only to the size, but also to the material of execution and operating conditions. Different types of glands are designed to work in different environments and temperature regimes.
| Parameter | Rubber oment (NBR) | Fluoro rubber (FKM/Viton) | Polyacrylate (ACM) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Temperature regime | up to +100°C | up to +200°C | up to +150°C |
| Resistance to oils | Good. | Great. | Very nice. |
| Resistance to fuel | Medium | Tall. | Tall. |
| Price. | Low. | Tall. | Medium |
For two-stroke trimmer engines, where the mixture of gasoline and oil aggressively affects rubber, fluoro rubber oils are often the best choice. They last longer and hold their shape better when heated, although they cost more than standard rubber counterparts.
The use of high-quality glands made of heat-resistant materials prolongs the life of the trimmer engine by 2-3 times compared to cheap analogues.
Checking the leakage after assembly
After completion of assembly and replacement of all sealing elements, it is necessary to check the tightness of the assembled unit. For the engine, this can be done by air pressing, dipping the assembled crankcase (without a piston) into water and applying pressure, or simply visually monitoring the work after the first start.
Start the trimmer and let it warm up at idle speeds, carefully watching the places of installation of new glands. The appearance of even small drops of oil or air sucking (whistling) indicates a defect in installation or defect of the part.
- 👁️ Visually inspect the compounds for lubrication.
- 👂 Listen to the sound of the engine running - a foreign whistle will indicate the air sucker.
- 🌡️ Check the temperature of the node after work - overheating may indicate friction of the obal against the shaft.
If the tests are successful, you can start normal operation of the tool, however, in the first hours of operation, it is recommended to periodically monitor the oil level and the purity of the surface around the seals.
How often should I change the trimmer?
The osseils do not have strict replacement regulations for time or motor clocks. They are changed by the fact of the appearance of oil leaks or air sucking. With proper operation and high-quality lubrication, they can serve several seasons, but with aggressive work or getting abrasive, failure is possible after 20-30 motor hours.
Can I use a sealant instead of a gum?
No, the sealant is not capable of performing the function of dynamic sealing of the rotating shaft. It can only be used for static joints of body parts. Attempting to replace the omentum with a layer of sealant will lead to rapid destruction of the node.
Why did the new omentum flow immediately?
There may be several reasons: damage to the working edge during installation, distortion during installation, the presence of dirt or shavings under the edge, or the production of the shaft itself. It is also possible that the oedema was overdried or picked up not according to the material (does not hold a specific oil).
Do I need to lubricate the shaft before installing the oil?
Yes, the working edge of the osbium and the surface of the shaft must be lubricated with pure engine oil before assembly. This will prevent rubber damage on the first run and ensure instant tightness until it goes live.