Processing of tissue slices is the stage of sewing, which turns a homemade thing into a professional-grade product. A regular straight line is not able to prevent the shedding of threads as effectively as it does imitation of the overlay seam on a household car. For this purpose, a special overlockIt allows you to create elastic and durable edges without buying expensive individual equipment. Many beginners are afraid to take up this function, considering it difficult, but understanding the mechanics of the process greatly simplifies the task.
The use of a specialized press requires not only the correct installation, but also the exact setting of the parameters of the tissue supply mechanism. Unlike a standard foot, the overlay has a design with guides and often a limiter that controls the movement of the cloth relative to the needle. Modern models sewing machines, whether they Brother, Janome or AstraLuxThey are equipped with different versions of such devices, but the principle of their operation remains the same. To get the perfect result, it is necessary to thoroughly analyze every aspect of working with this tool.
In this article, we will discuss in detail how to properly prepare the machine, choose threads and adjust the tension so that the edge of the product looks neat. You will learn about the common mistakes that even experienced craftsmen make and how to avoid them. Proper use paw-stitch It will save you time on finishing and extend the life of your clothes.
Design features and types of legs
The foot for the overlay seam is significantly different from the universal model in its structure. Its main feature is the presence of a special limiter or guide ridge located in the center or side. This element prevents the fabric from going too far to the right, providing a uniform exit of the needle exactly at the edge of the canvas. Without this limiter, it is almost impossible to perform a high-quality marking, since the line will “walk”, capturing excess fabric or, conversely, retreating too far from the edge.
There are several varieties of these legs, and the choice depends on your sewing machine. Some models are versatile and fit many brands, while others are designed specifically for a specific fastening mechanism. It is important to distinguish the foot for pseudooverlock (which is used with a regular straight or zigzag stitch) and a leg for a real overlay stitch, if it is provided by the design of your machine. In the latter case, the foot often has a more complex sole shape to better promote the fabric.
⚠️ Warning: Never forcefully insert an inappropriate type of foot into the holder. This can lead to breakage of the needle driver or deformation of the foot itself, which will make it impossible to get a straight line.
It is also worth noting the material of manufacture. Metal legs are considered more durable and better glide through dense fabrics, while plastic ones often come as standard and are great for light and medium-sized materials. Some advanced models are equipped with adjustable guides, the position of which can be changed depending on the thickness of the cut.
Preparing the sewing machine for work
Before you start work, you need to properly install the foot and prepare the machine. First, raise the needle to the upper position, then lower the lever of the clamping leg. Unscrew the screw of the current paw mount and remove it. Install the overlock paw, making sure that the paw pin correctly hit the needle driver holder, and tightly twist the fixing screw. Proper installation critical: if the foot is skewed, the stitch will lie unevenly, and the fabric may get stuck.
Next, you need to find the appropriate needles. For overlay seams, especially on knitwear, needles with a rounded tip (type) are best suited Jersey or Stretch), which extend the fibres of the fabric rather than piercing them, preventing puffing. The size of the needle should correspond to the density of the fabric: for light materials, use No. 70-75, for medium materials - No. 80-90, and for dense materials - No. 100-110. A dull or bent needle is a common cause of seam quality problems.
The scaling of the thread also has its nuances. An overlay seam is often required to loosen the upper tension of the thread so that the lower thread (or the thread of the shuttle device) can better wrap around the edge of the fabric. If your machine has a separate tension regulator for different types of lines, use it. Otherwise, you will have to experiment with the main regulator.
☑️ Machine ready for overlay seam
Set-up of string and tension parameters
The key point in the question of how to use the overlock paw is the correct setting of the string parameters. On most household machines, a zigzag line with a certain width and pitch is used to simulate an overlock, or a special combined line, if it is provided by the model. The width of the zigzag is usually set to a maximum (5-7 mm) so that the thread extends beyond the edge of the tissue, covering the cut. The step of the line is selected depending on the thickness of the thread and fabric: the thinner the material, the smaller the step.
Strand tension is a parameter that requires individual adjustment for each type of fabric. If the tension is too strong, the edge of the tissue can tighten, forming a wave. If too weak, the loops will lie loose and not hold the cut. Ideal is the condition when the nodule of the connection of the upper and lower thread is hidden inside the thickness of the fabric or under the stitches of the overlock.
For precise adjustment, use a flap of the same fabric from which the product will be sewn. Fold it in half as if you were going to process the cut, and lay the test line. Evaluate the result: if you see the loops from below, increase the tension of the upper thread. If the fabric is wrinkled, reduce it. Also, the quality is affected by the speed of sewing: the overfold stitch is better to perform at an average speed, so that the mechanism of supplying fabric has time to evenly promote the material under the foot.
The secret of the perfect seam on knitwear
For elastic fabrics, try using a rubber strand (spandex) in a spooly cap. This will allow the seam to stretch along with the fabric, without bursting when wearing. Leave the top thread with the usual polyester.
Overlay technique
The process of laying the seam requires a certain skill. Place the fabric under the foot so that the cut rests on a special limiter (rib) on the foot. Put your paw down. Start sewing slowly, making sure that the needle when moving to the right goes slightly beyond the edge of the fabric, and when moving to the left – entered the fabric a few millimeters from the edge. It is this capture of the edge that creates the marking effect.
It is important not to pull the fabric with your hands forward, but only slightly direct it so that the cut constantly slides along the limiter. If you pull the fabric, the step of the line will increase, and the seam will turn loose. If, on the contrary, to slow down - the needle can break on the foot or the fabric will gather in folds. Equal progress is the key to success.
When processing corners or rounds, the speed should be slowed down. At the corners, you can make several stitches in place (by lowering the needle into the fabric and lifting the paw, turning the fabric) to secure the thread and make the angle more neat. However, the classic overlay seam at corners often requires cutting the excess fabric after execution so that the angle does not clumsy.
⚠️ Attention: Watch your fingers! Since the needle goes beyond the edge of the tissue, the risk of pricking is higher than with a regular stitch. Keep your hands at a safe distance from the needle, using tools to move the tissue around when needed.
To the seam on the knitwear is not tightened, put a thin strip of cigarette paper under the paw. After sewing, the paper is easily torn off, and the fabric remains flat.
Table of selection of settings for different tissues
Different materials require an individual approach. Below is a table with recommended parameters that will be a great starting point for experiments. Remember that even the same fabrics from different manufacturers can behave differently, so always make a sample.
| tissue | Needle type | Zigzag width (mm) | Step length (mm) | Strand tension |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thin knitwear (jersey) | Jersey №75 | 5.0 - 6.0 | 2.0 - 2.5 | Weak (2-3) |
| Tight knitwear (footer) | Jersey №90 | 6.0 - 7.0 | 2.5 - 3.0 | Mean (3-4) |
| Cotton (popleen, sludge) | Universal №80 | 5.0 - 6.0 | 2.0 - 2.5 | Mean (4) |
| Dense fabric (jean) | Jeans №100 | 6.0 - 7.0 | 3.0 | Strong (5-6) |
| Silk, chiffon. | Universal №60-70 | 4.0 - 5.0 | 1.5 - 2.0 | Weak (2-3) |
Using this data as a base, you can quickly find the perfect balance. For example, for supple Often less tension is required so that the seam does not deform when stretched. For loose fabrics such as linen or costume wool, you can increase the width of the zigzag to better close the cut.
Removing defects and troubleshooting
Even experienced users face problems when working with the overlay paw. One of the most common is the skipping of stitches or the formation of a “beard” from threads. If the thread does not wrap around the edge, check whether the thread is properly tucked and whether the tension is too high. Also, the cause may be a dull needle or an incorrectly selected type of thread (too thick threads can get stuck in the ear or guides).
If the fabric is going to “wave” along the seam, it is a sure sign of too much tension of the upper thread or too wide strand pitch for a given material density. Try to relax the tension and reduce the length of the stitch. Sometimes it helps to replace the clamping paw with a model with Teflon coating, which provides better slip.
Breaking thread during sewing can occur due to burrs on the needle, improper filling or poor quality threads. Make sure the thread is freely reeled off the coil and does not cling to the machine elements. Also check if the thread is twisted in the path to the needle.
90% of the problems with the quality of the overlay seam are solved by replacing the needle with a new and correct adjustment of the tension of the upper thread. Don’t rush to disassemble the car, start with a simple one.
If none of the tips help, perhaps the problem lies in the synchronization of the machine mechanism or wear of the parts of the shuttle device. In this case, it is worth contacting a specialist for prevention.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use a regular paw for zigzag instead of a special overclock?
Technically, you can zigzag along the edge with a normal foot, but it will be extremely uncomfortable. A normal foot doesn’t have a limiter, so you’ll have to manually control the distance from the edge to the needle, which is almost impossible to do evenly over a long stretch. A special foot takes this function on itself, guaranteeing a smooth seam.
Which threads are best for overlay seam on a typewriter?
For better results, it is recommended to use special overlay threads (they are softer and more elastic) or high-quality polyester threads No. 40-50. Do not use cheap cotton threads, as they can often break and shrink when washed, which will cause the seam to tighten.
Why does the overlock's leg knock when working?
Knocking can occur if the foot is poorly secured or if the needle touches the metal limiter of the foot. Make sure the screw of the mount is tightened and the needle is mounted to the point and not curved. Also, knocking can be caused by too large a zigzag width, in which the needle hits the leg - reduce the width of the stitch.
Can I sew an overlay paw without trimming the edge?
Yes, you can. The overlock paw is designed specifically for processing the already cropped or natural edge of the fabric, preventing its shedding. Pruning of excess fabric (if required) is usually done before sewing or a special knife is used in industrial overlocks, but in household machines with a simulator foot, pruning is not provided structurally.