Working with electrical wiring, whether in a car or a home network, requires not only precision, but also the right tools. One of the most important tools for an electrician is wire clipper, which allows you to quickly and efficiently strip the insulation. Improper use of this tool can lead to damage to the conductor, which will subsequently cause oxidation of the contact or its complete breakage under load.
Unlike a simple knife, a professional stripper or clipper is configured to work with specific cable diameters, minimizing the risk of error. Automatic clipper takes on the main mechanical work, leaving the master only control over the process. Understanding the principle of operation and the nuances of adjustment guarantees the durability of the connections.
In this article we will analyze all aspects of working with this tool: from choosing a model to the intricacies of stripping multi-core and single-core cables. You will learn how to avoid common mistakes and extend the life of the tool itself. It is critically important to understand that the compression force of the handles must strictly correspond to the diameter of the core, otherwise microcracks in the copper are inevitable.
Design features and types of clippers
The modern market offers many modifications of the tool, and the choice depends on the frequency of use and type of tasks. Basic models are hand-held cutters with several calibrated holes for different sections. More complex automatic strippers equipped with a mechanism that independently regulates the depth of cut and resets the removed insulation.
Professional electricians often choose combined models, where the clipper is combined with pliers and wire cutters. Such devices have adjustable stop, which allows you to set the length of the area to be cleared. This is especially convenient for mass installation, when it is necessary to process hundreds of identical wires per shift.
β οΈ Warning: Do not use copper wire clippers on steel wire ropes or armored cables. The cutting edges of the tool are made of hardened steel, but they are brittle under lateral loads and can crumble.
Models with a ratchet mechanism deserve special attention. They provide uniform force when squeezing the handles, which prevents accidental damage to the core due to trembling hands or inexperience of the master. Blades in such devices, they are reduced to the stop only after a complete compression cycle.
- π§ Mechanical clippers β require manual selection of the hole for the diameter of the wire, ideal for rare use.
- β‘ Automatic strippers β they fix the wire themselves and remove the insulation during compression, increasing the speed of work significantly.
- π‘οΈ Combination instruments β combines the functions of cutters, pliers and insulation strippers in one housing.
Preparing the tool and selecting the operating mode
Before starting work, it is necessary to visually inspect the tool for play and the condition of the cutting edges. Dull blades will not cut the insulation, but will crush it, which will make removal difficult and may damage the core. To configure automatic clipper It is often necessary to unlock the lock located near the handles.
An important step is calibration for a specific type of wire. If you are working with stranded soft wire, the pressure should be less than when working with a monolithic conductor of the same cross-section. Many models have color-coded holes to match standard sizes (AWG or mmΒ²).
Check the movement of moving parts. The mechanism should move smoothly, without jamming. If the tool is new, it may be necessary to work it on several pieces of cable to ensure the lubricant is evenly distributed. Adjustment screw (if there is one) allows you to fine-tune the compression force of the jaws.
Before starting large-scale work, always make a test cut on a scrap piece of cable of the same brand to ensure that the jaw pressure is set correctly.
Don't forget about safety. Although a clipper is a hand tool, working with electricity always carries risks. Make sure the handles have a solid, non-conductive coating with no cracks. Damaged handle insulation can cause electric shock when working with live parts of the network.
Technology for stripping single-core and stranded wires
The stripping process varies depending on the conductor structure. For single-wire (monolithic) cables, it is important not to make the cut too deep. Place the wire in the appropriate hole, close the handles until they stop, make a full turn around the axis of the wire (if the design allows) or simply squeeze and pull.
C stranded wires the situation is different. Their structure is looser, and with strong compression you can bite through some of the thin veins. Automatic clippers win here because they clamp the wire to the outer diameter of the insulation without excessively squeezing the inside.
βοΈ Algorithm for proper stripping
When using hand tools with multiple holes, selecting the correct slot is key. If the hole is too large, the blades will not cut through the insulation. If it is not enough, you will damage the core. Ideal clearance allows the blades to penetrate the insulation, touch the core, but not deform it.
β οΈ Attention: When stripping stranded wire, avoid twisting the tool around the axis, unless this is provided for by the design. Twisting can lead to breakage of individual thin strands at the cut edge of the insulation.
Working with flat and complex cables
Flat cables such as popular two-wire wires in automotive wiring or for LED strips, require a special approach. Standard round clipper holes may not provide an even grip. In such cases, it is better to use V-neck models or universal blades.
The technology is to make a cut in the insulation from two opposite sides without touching the partition between the cores. Some craftsmen use the βrollingβ method: they clamp the wire in a clipper and gently twist it, after which they remove the insulation like a stocking.
Cables with complex shapes or double insulation may require two-step stripping. First, the outer layer is removed, then, indented, the inner layer. Automatic strippers Often this task is poorly done without modification with a file, so manual control is better here.
| Cable type | Recommended Tool | The nuance of stripping | Risk of error |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single-core (monolith) | Manual clipper with fix. hole | Accurate selection of diameter | Deep core cut |
| Stranded (flexible) | Automatic stripper | Compression force control | Cutting part of the veins |
| Flat (two-core) | Universal clipper knife | Cut on both sides | Damage to the second core |
| Armored | Cable cutter (not clipper) | Circular cut of outer shell | Damage to the screen/cores |
The main secret of working with complex cables is not to try to remove all the insulation in one movement; it is better to make several light cuts with a gradual increase in depth.
Typical errors and ways to resolve them
One of the most common mistakes is using a dull tool. The blades begin to βchewβ the insulation, leaving burrs on the surface. This is not only unsightly, but also dangerous, as it reduces the dielectric properties of the material at the point of contact. Blade sharpening clipping is a delicate process and often not economically feasible; it is easier to buy a new tool.
Another mistake is trying to strip a live wire with a regular clipper. Most manual models are not dielectric fully (with the exception of specialized 1000V series). A short circuit between the tool jaws may result in an arc flash and personal injury.
Often, beginners ignore the direction of removing insulation. You need to pull the tool along the wire, not at an angle. A sudden movement to the side is guaranteed to lead to a break in the core at the very edge of the insulation, which in vibration conditions (for example, in a car) will become a point of future breakage.
- β Too much compression - leads to a decrease in the cross-section of the core and its heating under load.
- β Wrong groove selection β leaves a βstepβ in the insulation or damages the metal.
- β Work "on weight" β the lack of a wire stop reduces accuracy and increases the risk of slipping.
β οΈ Attention: If you notice that after stripping the wire began to break easily at the place where the insulation was removed, it means that the metal structure has been damaged. This area must be removed and cleaned again, moving the cutting point.
Tool care and service life extension
To wire clipper served for a long time, it needs to be looked after. After each work shift, it is recommended to wipe the working surfaces with a dry cloth, removing PVC residues and oxides. Periodically, the swivel joint requires lubrication with light machine oil or silicone spray.
The instrument should be stored in a dry place, preferably in a cover or case. A drop on a hard floor may cause the calibration holes to become out of alignment or cause chipping of the cutting edge. Hardened steel hard but brittle.
Can clipper blades be sharpened?
Self-sharpening is only possible with diamond stones if you have the skills. However, the factory blade geometry (especially the convergence angle) is designed for micron accuracy. After sharpening, the tool often begins to βchewβ the wire or leave burrs, so it is cheaper and more reliable to replace the cutting unit or the entire tool.
Timely replacement of consumables (if the model allows) saves money. In some professional models, you can replace only the cutting jaws, leaving a convenient body. Keep track of your status