Changing the interior color scheme is a radical but effective way to completely transform the perception of the car. Old, faded plastic or shabby skin cease to please the eye, creating a feeling of wear and tear of the entire vehicle. Painting the salon allows you to return the details to the original appearance or change the style beyond recognition without expensive stretching.
Many owners mistakenly believe that it is enough to simply buy a spray paint can and apply it to the surface. In practice, this approach leads to rapid peeling of the coating, stickiness of the panels in the heat and uneven color. Professional results are possible only with strict adherence to technology. mating, degreasing and layering.
In this article, we will analyze all the nuances of the process, from the choice of chemistry to the finish polishing. You will learn what tools are really needed and how to avoid common mistakes that can ruin you forever.
Selection of materials and tools for work
The quality of the final result depends on the right chemistry. Conventional enamels for metal or wood are not suitable for automotive interiors, as they do not have the necessary elasticity. Plastic and skin in the cabin are constantly subjected to deformation, heating and friction, so the coating should be stretched along with the base.
You will need a specialized service to work. acrylic water-based. Such paints are environmentally friendly, do not have a sharp smell and have excellent adhesion. It is important to choose the right type of finish: matte, semi-matted or glossy. For dashboards and door cards, matte textures that simulate a factory coating (soft-touch) are most often used.
Use paint with the addition of a matting additive (Flat Additive), if the base composition is too glossy. This will allow to achieve the effect of "factory" plastic without glare in the sun.
Besides the paint, the correct one is critical. primer (adhesive soil) It creates a connection between the smooth surface of the part and the colored layer. Without high-quality soil, the paint can peel off in layers after a month of operation.
- 🎨 Specialized paint for skin and plastic (brand) Krylon, ColorDive or professional lines).
- 🧴 Alcohol-based degreasing agent (isopropyl alcohol or special products).
- 🌫️ Adhesive soil (primer) for complex surfaces.
- 🛡️ Protective varnish (optional, to increase wear resistance).
Don't skimp on tools. Cheap brushes will leave stripes, and a bad spray paint - "shoot". The best choice will be a mini-beau (airograph) or a high-quality airbrush with a compressor. For local works, sponges can be used to create texture.
Dismantling elements and surface preparation
Painting the cabin without dismantling the elements is the way to low quality and stained upholstery. You have to shoot a lot: the center console, door cards, steering wheel, decorative inserts and even seats, if you plan to paint them. This is a time-consuming process that requires care.
Before starting work, you need to photograph the location of all bolts and connectors. Modern cars are stuffed with electronics, and it is easy to forget where a particular screw is screwed or how the airbag chip is connected. Use the organizers to sort the fasteners.
⚠️ Before disconnecting the battery, be sure to wait for the engine to cool completely and turn off all energy consumers. When working with SRS (airbag) elements, be extremely careful - an accidental circuit can lead to a pyropatron shot.
After dismantling, the parts must be thoroughly cleaned. They accumulate dirt, hand fat, remnants of polyroles and silicones. You can't do with regular water here. Use an aggressive cleaner or a special cleaner degriteTo remove all contaminants from the plastic pores.
The next step is mechanical processing. Smooth factory plastic must be made matte. For this purpose, abrasive sponges (scotch brights) of gray or red color are used. The grain of sandpaper should not be too large to leave no deep scratches that will be visible through the paint.
☑️ Preparation of details for painting
The final touch of preparation is degreasing. Wipe the detail with a lilaless napkin dipped in a degreaser. Movements should be progressive, without strong pressure. After that, touching the surface with your hands is strictly prohibited, since skin fat will worsen adhesion.
Technology of applying soil and paint
The process of coloring requires compliance with the temperature regime. The ideal temperature in the room is from +18 to +22 ° C. In a too cold shop, the paint will dry for a long time and can flow, and in a hot one, it will grab a “crust”, not allowing the solvent to evaporate inside the layer.
First, the adhesive soil is applied. His task is to create a rough structure for clutch. Apply the soil with a thin, almost transparent layer ("fog"). Don’t try to paint the base the first time. Allow the soil to dry according to the instructions (usually 15-30 minutes).
The main color is applied in several layers. Cross-pollination technology This avoids stripes and unevenness. The first layer is light, the second is more saturated, the third is the finishing layer. Between the layers, be sure to do interlayer drying (flash-off time).
The Secret to the Perfect Soft-Touch Coverage
To obtain a pleasant to the touch matte surface, add a special matting agent to the paint. Apply the final layer from a longer distance (25-30 cm) and under high air pressure so that the paint falls with a dry misty veil.
Pay special attention to hard-to-reach places and corners. This is where the floods most often occur. Keep the spray gun or spray gun strictly perpendicular to the surface. The change in the angle of inclination leads to different layer thickness and, as a result, to different shade.
| Parameter | Grunt (Primer) | Basic paint. | Protective varnish |
|---|---|---|---|
| Number of layers | 1-2 thin | 2-3 average | 1 (optional) |
| Drying time between layers | 15-20 minutes | 10-15 minutes | 20-30 minutes |
| Spray distance | 20-25 cm | 15-20 cm | 20-25 cm |
| Time of complete polymerization | 24 hours. | 24 hours. | 48 hours. |
If you use an aerosol cylinder, shake it constantly. The pigment tends to settle to the bottom, which will lead to a change in color at the end of the work. Movements with the hand should be smooth, start spraying to the detail and finish after its edge.
Features of working with skin and vinyl
Painting leather seats and steering wheels is radically different from working with hard plastic. Skin is a living material that breathes and stretches. The usual hard paints will not work here, they will simply crack at the first landing of the driver.
Special elastic formulations are used for the skin, often called “liquid skin”. Before application, the old protective layer and contamination must be removed. Sometimes even light grinding with fine abrasive is required if the skin has a strong gloss or damage.
Color restoration The skin often requires not only painting, but also filling cracks. For this purpose, there are special fillers (fillers), which are applied before the main color. They penetrate into the pores and microcracks, leveling the surface.
After drying the paint, the skin must be treated with a finish fixator. It protects the pigment from fading and abrasion. Without this layer, the new interior paint will quickly lose sight, especially on the steering wheel and sidewalls of the seats, where contact with clothing is maximum.
⚠️ Note: Do not use acetone-based solvents or aggressive chemicals to clean your skin before painting. This will dry the material and it will start to crack during operation. Use only soft cleansers for the skin.
You can not sit on the seats immediately after painting. The minimum drying time before operation is 24 hours, but it is better to withstand 48 hours for complete polymerization of elastic components.
Drying, assembly and care for new coating
After the application of the final layer, the longest stage begins - drying. Although parts can be dry in an hour, the chemical reaction of polymerization lasts much longer. Full strength of the coating is gaining in a few days.
Assembly of the cabin should be carried out as carefully as possible. Use new clips and pistons, as old ones often break when dismantled. When installing parts, make sure that the painted surfaces do not rub against each other.
Infrared lamps can be used to speed up the process, but with caution. Local overheating can lead to paint bloating or deformation of plastic elements. Natural drying at room temperature is the safest option.
Full polymerization of paint in the cabin takes up to 7 days. In the first week, avoid wet cleaning and using aggressive chemicals on painted surfaces.
Caring for an updated cabin requires delicacy. For the first two weeks, wash the plastic with only water or a soft soap solution. Avoid polyroles with silicone or oil content in the first months, as they may react with a not fully strengthened coating.
Regularly check the condition of the coating in the places of greatest friction. If you notice the beginning of wear, it is better to immediately carry out a local restoration than to repaint the entire part in six months. Proper care will prolong the life of a new color for years.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Even experienced masters sometimes make mistakes, let alone beginners. The most common problem is the appearance of shagrani (“orange peel”). This is due to improper pressure in the spray gun, too thick paint or violation of temperature.
Another common mistake is not enough degreasing. If at least a little silicone from previous polyroles remains on the surface, the paint in this place simply will not lie down or will gather in drops ("craters"). Craters can only be repaired by a complete repainting after careful grinding.
Uneven color or stripes often occur due to material savings. Trying to stretch the can of paint on the entire salon, beginners apply too thin, “bare” layers. As a result, it shines through, and the color looks faded and dirty.
- ❌ Bad adhesion: Skipping the mattage stage or using an inappropriate primer.
- ❌ Dust in the polish: Painting in a dirty, dusty room without prior wet cleaning.
- ❌ Sticky: Insufficient drying time between layers or applying too thick "fat" layer.
- ❌ Razznotone: Uneven application of paint or poor mixing of the composition during the work.
⚠️ Warning: Never try to speed up drying with a hair dryer or a building hair dryer at full capacity. Sharp heating of the surface will lead to boiling of the solvent inside the paint layer, which will cause the appearance of bubbles.
To avoid these problems, always do a test stain on an inconspicuous area or on a sample of plastic. This will allow you to choose the optimal spraying distance and understand the behavior of the material.
Can I paint the salon with ordinary spray paint?
Technically possible, but the result will be short-lived. Ordinary enamel is not elastic and will begin to crack and peel after a month. In addition, they can have an unpleasant smell and release harmful substances in the confined space of the cabin.
How long does the paint dry in the car?
The surface drying time is 30-60 minutes. However, full polymerization and strength gain require 24 to 48 hours. Operating a full-load vehicle is recommended no earlier than 3-5 days.
Do I need to remove the seats completely or can I paint them on the spot?
For high-quality results, it is better to remove the seat. This will allow you to process the sidewalls and hidden areas, as well as avoid getting paint on the floor carpet and electronics under the seat.
How to remove the smell of paint after finishing work?
Use specialized odor absorbers for cars, ozonator or just leave the car on the air for a few days. Water-based high-quality paints have almost no odor after drying.