The desire to update the appearance of the car often comes up against the fear of complex technical procedures. Many car owners avoid painting the body elements, fearing that they will have to disassemble half the car or dismantle complex components. However, modern technology and proper training allow you to localization Change the color of the elements directly on the car. This also applies to door handles, which with a competent approach can be transformed, leaving them in place.
This process requires not so much physical strength as patience and accuracy. The main difficulty is that the paint got only on the intended areas, without affecting the body around. In this article, we will discuss in detail how to paint the handles of the car doors without removing them, using available tools and materials. You will learn about the nuances of surface preparation, methods of protection of paint coating and techniques of enamel application.
The result of this work depends on the quality paintwork in the preparatory phase. If you carefully seal all the excess and properly degrease the surface, the finishing coating will lie flat and will last for years. Do not underestimate the importance of each step, as it is the details that determine the final quality.
Required materials and tools for the work
Before starting work, you need to assemble a full arsenal of tools. The absence of even one important element can stop the process or ruin the result. For high-quality painting without removing the handles, you will need not only paint, but also protection, abrasives and paint tape.
Particular attention should be paid to the choice degreaser. Using poor-quality solvents can damage the factory lacquer coating around the handle, leaving matte spots that cannot be removed. Also critically important paint tape - it should be of high quality, do not leave glue and fit tightly to the curves of the body.
Use paint tape with a width of no more than 19 mm (narrow) for pasting the contours - this will allow you to more accurately repeat the shape of the handle and not climb the paint on the body.
The main materials include:
- 🎨 Aerosol paint selected in color or soil-enamel for plastic.
- 🧴 Degreasing (antisilicone) and microfibre.
- 📏 Paint tape of different widths and cover film.
- 🧽 Abrasive materials (P800-P1200 sandpaper or Scotch Bright)
- 🧤 Polishing paste for finishing the transitions.
If the pen is plastic and not painted from the factory, it is necessary archetypal For plastic, otherwise the paint will just peel off after a month of operation.
Surface preparation and protection of related parts
The most important stage is preparation. It is on how well you clean and camouflage the surface that the final look of the car depends. Dust, fat or residues of polyrole will negate all efforts, so you can not save time here.
Start by thoroughly washing the area around the handle. After drying, deep cleaning should be carried out. Use autobody clay or a special bitumen stain cleaner to remove any ingrained contaminants. The surface should then be treated. abrasive. If there are chipped on the handle or the old paint is not kept well, it must be cleaned to a metal or a strong base.
☑️ Preparation for painting
The process of camouflage (sticking) requires jewelry accuracy. You need to close everything that should not be painted: the body around the handle, glass, keyholes. Scotch should be glued so that its edge goes exactly along the border of the painted part or with minimal approach to it, if you plan to shining.
⚠️ Attention: Never put Scotch on a hot body or in direct sunlight. The glue can melt and stick firmly to the varnish, and when removed damage the coating. Work in the shade at temperatures from +15 to +25 degrees.
To protect large areas, use cover film or newspapers. Fix them with tape, forming a kind of "tap" above the handle, so that the mist of paint (dust) does not settle on the hood or doors below the processing level. Especially carefully seal the larva of the lock if it is in the handle - the paint that gets there can block the opening mechanism.
Technology of painting without removing elements
When the preparation is complete, the moment of truth comes – the application of paint. The technique of painting on a car differs from painting a removed part in that you are limited in viewing angles and approach. The balloon or spray gun should be kept perpendicular to the surface at a distance of 20-25 cm.
The material must be applied in thin layers. The first layer is a light “dust” that serves to improve adhesion. Don’t try to paint everything the first time, it will lead to streamIt is very difficult to fix on the vertical surface of the door. Allow each layer to dry according to the instructions on the jar (usually 10-15 minutes).
The secret of a flat layer
Keep the canister in motion before you press the button, and continue moving after you release it. Abrupt stop of spraying at one point is guaranteed to create an influx.
The optimal number of layers is 2-3 colored layers and 1-2 layers of varnish (if the paint requires varnishing). When working with aerosol, it is important to constantly shake the balloon so that the pigment does not settle to the bottom. Movements should be smooth, left to right and back, with 50% overlap of the previous passage.
If you paint in contrasting color (such as black handles on a white car), the boundary of the transition will be visible. In this case, the method is used. slurry The edges or subsequent polishing of the transition. For factory color, the task is simplified – you just need to get into the tone and texture.
Features of working with plastic and chrome handles
The material of the pen dictates its conditions. Plastic and chromium have completely different properties of adhesion and expansion when heated. The mistake in choosing the soil here is fatal. Chrome surfaces often have a smooth structure, and the paint on them is the worst without special preparation.
For plastic, it is mandatory to use a soil-activator or a primer for plastic. It creates a sticky intermediate layer that binds the polymer molecules and the paint. Without this stage, painting plastic pens without removal will turn into a useless occupation - the coating will begin to peel at the first wash or temperature drop.
Chromium elements require a more aggressive uterus. Glossy chromium must be thoroughly treated with scotch bright or fine sandpaper (P1000-P1200) to remove the shine and create micro-risks for ground engagement. After that, the surface is also degreased.
| Type of surface type | Necessary soil | Features of training |
|---|---|---|
| Factory paint (metal) | Not mandatory (with integrity) | P800 wool, degreasing |
| Smooth plastic | Primer for plastic | Careful matting, cleaning |
| chrome | Adhesive soil / Acid | Deep uterus before the sheen disappears |
| Plastics (Black Plastic) | Sound filler | Cleaning with a brush, filling the pores with soil |
When working with texture-plastic (woolly to the touch, often found on SUVs) paint can lie unevenly, falling into the pores. Here, it is recommended to apply the first layer of soil more abundantly to fill the texture, and then grind it until smooth before finishing the painting.
Drying and finishing of the coating
After applying the last layer of varnish or paint, the polymerization process begins. Don't rush to take off the scotch immediately. If you do this too early, you can break the boundary of the layer, and there will be a noticeable ledge (step). The optimal time to remove the camouflage is when the coating dried up "from dust", but has not yet risen completely (after about 30-40 minutes).
Complete drying takes from 24 hours to several days depending on temperature and humidity. During this period, it is better not to operate the car, especially in dusty conditions or in the rain. Water caught on fresh varnish can leave matte spots.
Full polymerization of automotive enamels takes up to 7-14 days. During this period, car washing with chemicals and abrasives is prohibited.
If you were painting with a step on the body (crossover), after complete drying (after 2-3 days), you may need to polish the transition zone. This is done with an abrasive paste using a polishing machine or manually to remove the step and make the transition invisible to the eye.
Finishing also involves removing possible defects: motches or small stains. They are carefully sanded with P2000-P2500 sandpaper with water, and then polished. The main thing is not to wipe the fresh layer of paint to the ground.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Even experienced masters sometimes make mistakes, but beginners in painting without removing details face them constantly. Knowing these mistakes will help you avoid disappointment and reworking the job. Most often, problems arise due to rush or neglect of preparation.
One of the most common mistakes is poor degreasing. A finger in a glove, accidentally touching the surface, leaves a fat trail on which the paint billows with a bubble. Also often forget about the temperature: painting in the cold (below +15 ° C) leads to the fact that the paint does not spread, forming a "shagrain skin" (orange peel).
- 🚫 Too thick a layer: This leads to long drying leaks that are difficult to correct.
- 🚫 Poor defense: paint gets on seals or glass, from where it is difficult to wash without scratches.
- 🚫 Ignoring the soil: Especially on plastic, which guarantees peeling.
- 🚫 Dust: Working outside without wind protection raises dust that settles on sticky paint.
⚠️ Attention: Do not attempt to accelerate drying with a building hair dryer or heat gun. Local overheating can lead to boiling of the solvent in the lower layers, which will cause the effect of "boiling" the paint or its detachment from the metal.
Another problem is the color mismatch. Even if the paint code matches, the old burnt-out body and the new paint may be different. In such cases, it helps to color "under the burnout" or paint all the handles and switch to neighboring panels to smooth the difference.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I paint the pens black (in matte) if the car is white?
Yeah, it's a popular tuning. However, matte black paint (Plasti Dip or special matte enamel) requires careful care. It should not be rubbed with abrasives or hard brushes. For durability, it is better to use high-quality automotive enamel with matte varnish.
How long does the paint dry on the handles?
The drying time of the dust is 20-40 minutes. Full polymerization, which allows washing the machine, occurs in 24-48 hours at a temperature of +20 ° C. The final strength of the coating is gained in 7-14 days.
Do I need to remove the larva of the castle before painting?
Ideally, yes, that’s the best option. But if you know how to gently paste tape and close the hole of the lock with a piece of tape from the inside (pushing it carefully), then you can paint and so on. The main thing is to prevent the paint from getting inside the mechanism.
What to do if the paint hit the glass or body?
Fresh paint can be removed with solvent (646, 469), but you need to act quickly and carefully, without touching the native varnish. Dried paint from the glass can be removed with a blade at an angle. It is removed from the body by polishing if it has not had time to eat the varnish.
What is the paint consumption for 4 pens?
Usually one spray of aerosol paint (520 ml) is enough for 4 door handles in 2-3 layers with varnish. However, it is better to have a stock, especially if you are doing it for the first time or the handles have a complex relief shape.