Own painting of the car is not just a way to save on the services of a professional service station, but also an opportunity to get full satisfaction from the work done. However, this process requires strict discipline, purity and an understanding of chemical processes. Errors at the stage of surface preparation or violation of the temperature regime of drying can negate all efforts, turning the body into an uneven shaft. Before starting the work, it is necessary to clearly understand that garage-painting It is radically different from the factory or shop, requiring more careful protection from dust and moisture.
The success of the event depends on many factors: from the quality of the selected enamel to the humidity of the air in the room. Even if you do not have experience in painting, following the technology will achieve an acceptable result. The main thing is not to rush with the application of layers and give each stage to dry due time. In this article, we will analyze all the nuances that will help you avoid common mistakes and get a smooth, deep body color.
⚠️ Attention: Painting works involve the use of flammable materials and toxic solvents. Make sure that the garage has ventilation and all sources of open fire are removed to a safe distance.
Organization of workspace and choice of materials
The first thing to start with is the preparation of the room itself. The garage should be as tight as possible to exclude drafts that can cause dust on fresh paint, but at the same time be able to ventilate. The floor must be thoroughly swept and, preferably, moistened with water from the spray gun to nail the settled dust. The walls should be wiped with wet rags, and all unsecured items are better to take out or close with a plastic film.
A critically important aspect is lightning. A regular incandescent light bulb will not be enough, as it distorts color reproduction. You will need bright white light, preferably from LED spotlights located at different angles. This will allow you to see all surface defects and control the uniformity of the application of the LCD (painting coating).
The choice of materials is not a case where it is worth saving. Cheap solvents can leave the divorce, and poor-quality soil - peel off after a month. You will need to work:
- 🎨 Car enamel (basic paint) and varnish (if a two-component system is used).
- 🧪 A solvent for diluting paint and degreasing surfaces.
- 🛡️ Printing (epoxy or acrylic) to create adhesion.
- 📄 Abrasive materials (sandpaper) of different grains.
- 🧤 Personal protective equipment: respirator, gloves, overalls.
Pay special attention to the selection of colors. If you paint the entire car, the color code can be found on a sign in the hood space or in the doorway. Local repairs often require computer-generated selection to get into the tone, as factory paint burns out over time.
Stages of body preparation for painting
Preparation takes up to 80% of the total time of work and determines 90% of the quality of the final result. Poorly prepared surface will show all defects after applying glossy varnish. The first thing to do is wash the car thoroughly using car shampoo, removing bitumen stains and road dirt.
After washing, the degreasing stage follows. Use special antisilicons or white spirits, rubbing the body with a lilac-free napkin. Movements should be progressive, without strong pressure. Never use gasoline or acetone for degreasing.As they can damage factory soil or plastic elements, making them matte and loose.
Then comes the mechanical treatment. If there are corrosion foci on the body, they must be cleaned to metal. Deep dents and chips are aligned with a car putty. Apply the putty should be thin layers, allowing everyone to dry. After drying, the surface is grinded with sandpaper with a gradation of P80-P180 to a perfectly smooth state.
An important step is wobbling old varnish, if you do not remove the coating to metal. The glossy surface must be made matte so that the new soil catches. For this purpose, abrasive P400-P600 or special scotch brights are used. The whole body should become evenly matte, without shiny spots.
Surface priming technology
The grounder serves as a link between the metal (or putty) and the finishing paint. It provides anti-corrosion protection and levels microrelief. Apply the soil only on a carefully defatted and dusted surface. To remove dust, you can use compressed air or a special sticky napkin.
The soil shall be diluted with a solvent according to the manufacturer's instructions. Usually the proportion is 4 parts of soil per 1 part of hardener, but the exact data is always indicated on the bank. The mixture must be thoroughly mixed and allowed to stand for 10-15 minutes for the release of air bubbles. The soil is applied with a spray gun with a duse of 1.6-1.8 mm in 2-3 layers.
The first layer is made thin "dust" to create primary adhesion. The subsequent layers are applied wet, with overlapping the previous one by 50%. It is important not to pour the surface to avoid stains, but also not to overdry, otherwise there will be an effect of "orange peel". After drying (usually 24 hours at room temperature), the ground surface is grinded with abrasive P600-P800 for application of the base.
Secrets of working with the soil
If after grinding the soil, the risks from sandpaper or pores appeared, do not try to fill them with a thick layer of paint. It is better to apply another thin layer of soil-filler (wet soil), let dry and again pass with a small abrasive. This will provide perfect smoothness.
The process of applying the base enamel
Applying the base is the most important moment that determines the color and appearance of the car. Basic enamel (metallic, pearl or monotony) does not have gloss and looks matte. It is applied with a spray gun with a duse of 1.3-1.4 mm. The compressor pressure must be stable, usually 2.5-3 atmospheres at the exit of the pistol.
The first layer of the base is applied very thinly, almost semi-transparent. His job is to set the tone and create the basis for the clutch. Do not try to immediately block the soil with color - this will lead to uneven drying and stains. Between the layers, interlayer drying (usually 10-15 minutes) must be maintained until the surface becomes matte.
The second and third layers are applied more saturatedly, covering 50% of the previous pass. It is important to keep the gun perpendicular to the surface and at the same distance (15-20 cm). The movements should be smooth, at the same speed. Abrupt stops or changes in the angle of inclination will lead to stripes and uneven distribution of the metal pigment.
After applying the final layer of the base, you must allow it to dry for 20-30 minutes. Enamel should stop being sticky, but stay matte. If you hold your finger in an inconspicuous place, there should be no paint on it, only a slight matteness. The surface is now ready to be varnished.
☑️ Control before the polish
Lacquering and gloss-making
Lacquer protects the base enamel from ultraviolet radiation, chemical influences and mechanical damage, and also gives the body a deep shine. For garage conditions, two-component acrylic varnishes (HS - High Solid) are excellent. They are more forgiving (forgiving mistakes) and give excellent bottling.
The lacquer is mixed with the hardener strictly according to the instructions. The viability of the finished mixture is limited (usually 2-3 hours), so you need to mix just as much as you can produce. Lacquer is applied with spray gun with a duse of 1.3-1.5 mm. The first layer is thin, binding. The second and third (if necessary) are wet, greasy, until the appearance of a persistent gloss.
When applying varnish it is very important to monitor education stain. If you see the layer getting too greasy and starting to "swim," it's best to stop. The varnish has the property of spreading on its own within the first minutes after application. Excessive diligence will lead to defects that will have to be eliminated by prolonged grinding.
| Parameter | Basic enamel | Acrylic lacquer | ground-enamel |
|---|---|---|---|
| Diameter of a duo | 1.3. - 1.4 mm | 1.3. - 1.5 mm | 1.6. 1.8 mm |
| Pressure (atm) | 2.5 - 3.0 | 2.5 - 3.0 | 3.0 - 4.0 |
| Drying between layers | 10-15 minutes | 15-20 minutes | 20-30 minutes |
| Number of layers | 2-3 layers | 2 layers | 2-3 layers |
To avoid getting dust on the varnish, before the beginning of varnishing, walk along the floor of the garage with a water "curtain" from the spray gun. This will kill all the suspended dust that could have risen during your movements.
Drying, polishing and elimination of defects
After applying the varnish, the car should dry. In garage conditions without infrared drying, this process takes anywhere from 24 hours to several days, depending on the air temperature and the type of hardener. Do not rush to remove the camouflage tape or try to polish the body ahead of time - the varnish can be soft inside, even if (the surface) seems hard.
After complete polymerization (usually in a week), you can start polishing. Even in a clean garage, dust can settle on the body, creating the effect of "shagrain leather" or small dots. These defects are eliminated by abrasive polishing. First, a hard circle and abrasive paste are used to remove the shaking, then a soft circle and a finishing paste to give a mirror shine.
During the polishing process, it is important not to overheat the polish. Keep the polishing machine in motion and do not press it too hard. Pay special attention to the ends of the doors, hood and trunk - there the layer of the LCD is thinner, and it is easy to wipe to the base or metal.
The final result depends on your accuracy. A properly polished car in garage conditions can look no worse than after factory painting. The key is patience and technology compliance at every stage.
The quality of polishing directly depends on the time of drying the varnish. If you start polishing too early, the abrasive will clog and the varnish will break. Allow the car to stand for at least 7 days before finishing.
How long does the paint dry in the garage in winter?
The drying time in winter increases significantly. At temperatures below +15°C, the use of standard hardeners can lead to clouding of the varnish ("boiling") or endless drying time. In winter, you need to use "fast" hardeners and be sure to heat the room to +20 ° C ... + 25 ° C for drying.
Can I paint a car with a regular spray enamel?
Technically possible, but the result will be different from the professional. Aerosol sprays give less pressure and a different spray texture. For a complete repainting, this is not recommended due to the high flow rate and difficulty of hitting the tone. However, for local repair of small chips, this is an acceptable option.
What to do if there is a stain of varnish?
Do not try to remove the stain immediately with a cloth - you will spoil the entire site. Let the varnish dry completely (a few days). Then carefully cut the flood with a blade or grind locally with abrasive P1500-P2000, after which polish the area again.