Painting a car is not just a repair, it is an art where even a minimal deviation in shade can spoil the entire appearance of the car. When there is a need for local repair or restoration of the body element, the owner faces a difficult task: how to find the perfect match? The market offers thousands of shades, and factory catalogs have even more options that vary depending on the year of production and operating conditions.
Independent paint-coloring It requires care, proper equipment and an understanding of the physical properties of materials. An error in choice can cause the painted part to look foreign, especially under different lighting. In this article, we’ll break down all the nuances, from finding the factory code to checking the mix in the lab, so you can confidently approach the restoration issue.
Many motorists underestimate the impact of time on paintwork. Sun rays, reagents and temperature changes change the structure of the pigment, making the task of finding the “original” even more difficult. However, knowing the correct algorithms of actions, you can achieve a result that will be indistinguishable from the factory even for an experienced eye.
Finding the factory code of paint: the first and main step
The most reliable way to determine the shade is to find the factory code assigned to the car during production. Manufacturers apply this information to special plates or stickers, the location of which depends on the make and model of the machine. Most often, such tags are in the hood space, on the door racks or in the luggage compartment.
For example, cars VAG Group (Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda) code is often stamped on a sticker in the spare wheel niche or at the end of the service book. Japanese brands, such as Toyota or MazdaThe plate is usually located on the central pillar of the body from the driver's side. It is important not to confuse the paint code with the VIN number or cabin configuration code.
⚠️ Note: The paint code may consist of letters and numbers, sometimes separated by a line or space. Don’t confuse it with an interior code that is often found nearby and labeled as “Trim” or “Int.”
If the sticker is erased or missing, the code can be found in the car’s service book or in the documents when you purchase it. There are also specialized online databases where the VIN code can be used to determine the factory number of the paint, although this method does not always give an absolute guarantee due to possible factory replacements in the production process.
- 🔍 Look for a sign that says "Paint", "Color" or "Farbnummer".
- 📸 Take a picture of the sticker in good light to make out the small symbols.
- 📚 Check the service book if the physical plate is damaged.
- 🌐 Use online VIN decoders, but double-check the result visually.
Knowing the exact code, you significantly narrow the search circle. This is especially true for complex metallized and pearl shades, where the difference in the recipe can be critical. Without a code, the process becomes a lottery, where the chances of success are minimal.
If you find the code, but are not sure of its correctness, call the official dealer of the brand and dictate the VIN-code - they can confirm the factory color of your car.
Work with fan catalogs and color tables
Once the code is found, work begins with the physical samples. Fan catalogs (fans) from enamels manufacturers, such as Mobihel, Vika or PPGThey are the main colorist’s tool. They contain reference paints corresponding to the factory codes of various automakers.
However, it should be understood that even the reference fan can differ from the real color of the body. This is because the fan paint was applied in perfect laboratory conditions and your car was exposed to the outside environment for years. In addition, different manufacturers of repair enamel can give slight variations of hue even for the same factory code.
When working with catalogs, it is important to consider the type of coverage. Acrylic paints look different than the base under varnish (metallic / pearl). Metallics require a special approach, as the size and orientation of aluminum powder affect the perception of color from different angles.
| Type of coating | Features of selection | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| Solid. | Uniform color, does not change the shade at an angle | Low. |
| Metallic (Metallic) | Contains aluminum powder, changes brightness | Medium |
| Pearl (Pearl) | It contains mica, gives a colorful flush. | Tall. |
| Xeralic (Xirallic) | Complex pigments with crystal effect | Very high. |
The use of fans is only effective for fresh cars or with full repainting when the old layer is completely removed. In other cases, you can not rely solely on the fan - a more accurate diagnosis is necessary.
Why can a fan lie?
Fan samples eventually fade out in the light, especially if the catalog is often used. In addition, the paper or metal on which the paint is applied may have a different texture compared to the body of the car, which distorts the perception of color in the eye.
Computer Painting: Technology and Reality
The most accurate and modern method is computer-selection. It is carried out in specialized laboratories using a spectrophotometer. This device reads the color from the surface of the car and compares it to the database, giving the exact formulation of the mixture.
The process is as follows: the specialist finds the code of your paint in the program, after which the system offers the basic formula. However, the machine does not take into account burnout, so the colorist makes adjustments manually, creating a “painting” – a test sample that is compared with the body in different lighting.
The advantage of computer selection is the ability to take into account the individual characteristics of your car. Even if the factory formula is known, the computer system will help adapt it to the current state of the paint coating. This is especially important for older cars.
- 💻 The accuracy of selection reaches 95-98% when working with an experienced colorist.
- 🎨 The ability to create a mixture for a particular element, taking into account burnout.
- ⏳ The process takes anywhere from 30 minutes to several hours depending on the complexity of the color.
- 💰 The cost is higher than buying finished can paint, but the result is worth it.
⚠️ Note: Computer selection does not give 100% guarantee on complex three-layer pearls. Always require a test spray before buying the full volume.
The key role is played by the human factor: the experience of the colorist, his color perception and the ability to work with a spectrophotometer. Cheap pickup points often save on pigments, which leads to rapid fading of repairs.
Visual evaluation and comparison of samples in different light
The human eye is also a tool, but it is also capable of making mistakes. The phenomenon of metameria is that two patterns can appear the same in one lighting and completely different in the other. That is why professionals conduct inspection in special paint chambers or in daylight.
For self-checking, you will need a “painting” – a metal plate or an old part, on which the selected color is sprayed. Apply this sample close to the body of the car. Step back to a distance of 2-3 meters and look at the junction from different angles.
Pay attention to the following aspects: whether the brightness coincides, whether the shade goes into another spectrum (for example, red to orange or blue to purple). For metalworkers, it is critical to check the “grain” – the size and brightness of the sequins.
The check must be carried out in three conditions:
- In bright sunlight (the structure and overflows are visible).
- In the shade or overcast weather (the main tone is visible).
- Under artificial lighting (lamps in the garage or street lighting).
If in sunlight the color coincides perfectly, and in the shade the body seems darker or lighter - this is a sign of a mismatch of tone. In this case, a recasting is required. Do not rush into buying unless you are sure of the outcome, as the return of tinted paint is usually impossible.
The perfect color match is possible only when comparing the color with the body in daylight. Artificial garage lighting always distorts the perception of shades.
Factors affecting the change in the color of the old body
Why doesn’t even a good code guarantee a perfect hit? The answer lies in the ageing of materials. Over the years, the car is exposed to aggressive ultraviolet light, which destroys chemical bonds in pigments. Red and yellow are the fastest to burn out.
In addition to the sun, the color is influenced by chemical reagents in winter, acid rain and mechanical washing. This means that the color of the factory is “going away.” If you paint the door according to the factory formula on a car from 10 years ago, the new part will look brighter and richer, standing out against the background of burnt wings.
The previous repairs are also important. If the car has already been repainted, then the current color may not correspond to the factory code at all. In such cases localization It becomes the only way out when the colorist mixes the paint, focusing on the current state of the body, ignoring factory standards.
- ☀️ Ultraviolet destroys organic pigments, making the color paler.
- 🌧️ The acidic environment changes the pH balance of the varnish, affecting transparency.
- 🧼 Abrasive polishes remove the layer of varnish, changing the depth of color.
- 🌡️ Temperature changes cause microcracks that scatter light.
Understanding these processes helps to correctly set the task for the colorist. Sometimes you need not just to choose a color, but specifically “age” a new paint or, conversely, paint with a transition of neighboring elements to smooth out the difference.
Practical tips for ordering and checking paint
When you have decided on the method and found a potential supplier, do not rush to pay for a full canister. Order the minimum required volume for a test painting. If it is an aerosol - take one can, if the paint under the sprayer - 100-200 grams.
The test must be performed on the test surface. Apply the material, observing the technology (soil, base, varnish), as the color of the wet base and dry differs. Lacquer also affects saturation, making the color deeper. Only after complete polymerization (drying) can the final conclusions be drawn.
⚠️ Warning: Never compare the color of wet paint to dry body. The wet layer is always darker and saturated. Wait for the solvents to evaporate completely.
If you paint the whole car, then small deviations in tone will be invisible, since the entire body will be in one shade. But for local repairs (bumper, wing, door) accuracy should be jewelry. In difficult cases, it is better to contact a professional color studio with licensed software and certified pigments.
☑️ Checklist before buying paint
In conclusion, self-selection of color is a complex process that requires patience. But if you approach it systematically, using codes, directories and the correct verification technique, you can achieve an excellent result, saving significant funds on the services of the service.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can you pick up paint only by VIN code without inspecting the car?
Theoretically, you can find out the factory code of the paint by VIN, but buying a suitable can without taking into account the burnout of the body is risky. On old cars, the factory shade will differ from the real color of the car. It is better to use VIN as a starting point for further selection.
Why is the paint in the can different from the color on the body?
Aerosol cans often have a simplified formulation. In addition, the method of application (spray torch, pressure) affects the laying of the pigment, especially in metallic materials. A professional sprayer gives a more controlled result than a finished balloon.
How long does it take to dry the color to check the color?
For the initial evaluation, 15-20 minutes are enough (drying "on the stick"). However, the final color and hue are apparent after the solvents have completely evaporated, which can take 2 to 24 hours depending on the type of enamel and ambient temperature.
What if the paint code is not read or the plate is lost?
In this case, only visual selection remains. You need to take a sample (for example, the gas tank hatch or the inside of the door, where the paint is better preserved) and contact the computer selection laboratory to take the spectrum.