The search for an exact match of body color begins with examining the factory markings on the body pillars or in the engine compartment, where a specific alphanumeric code is indicated auto enamels. Without this information, attempts to guess the shade by eye or from a catalog will most likely lead to visual dissonance between the part being repaired and the rest of the body, since even the same factory color changes saturation over the years. The vehicle owner must understand that modern three-layer pearlescents and complex metallics require professional computer matching if the factory code does not provide a perfect match due to pigment fading.
Primary diagnosis of the condition of the paintwork coating (LPC) allows you to determine whether local painting is sufficient or whether a complete repainting of the element with a transition is required. Mistakes in determining the type of paint, for example when nitro enamel is applied to an acrylic base, can lead to a chemical reaction manifested in the form of wrinkling of the coating or loss of adhesion. Therefore, before purchasing materials, it is necessary to accurately identify not only the color, but also the chemical basis of the existing layer, as well as the presence of effects such as “chameleon” or “xeralic”.
For owners of rare or older models, the process is complicated by the fact that factory recipes may have been discontinued, requiring manual tinting in a specialized laboratory. In such cases, it is critical to take into account the degree of fading of adjacent panels so that the new part does not look like an alien bright spot against the overall background of the car. A competent approach involves using a spectrophotometer to analyze the current state of the pigment, and not just relying on factory data from ten years ago.
Finding the factory paint code and decoding it
The first and most reliable step is to locate the nameplate or sticker that contains information about the configuration and color. The location of these identifiers varies depending on the manufacturer: for German brands BMW and Mercedes The code is often located on the body pillar or in the spare wheel well, and on Asian brands it can be found under the hood on the “TV” or on the driver’s side B-pillar. The searched value is usually a combination of 3-5 characters, next to which there may be a designation C/TR or PAINT.
It is important to differentiate between the exterior color code and the interior color code as they are often located in close proximity to each other and have a similar format. An error in choosing a line will lead to the purchase of a material of a completely different shade, which will be radically different from the required one. For accurate identification, it is recommended to use the vehicle's VIN code, which allows you to request an original color card from an authorized dealer or find information in specialized online databases.
⚠️ Attention: The paint code may differ for different years of production of the same model, even if visually the color appears identical. Always check the code against the year of manufacture of the vehicle.
After receiving the code, you should not immediately buy a can of spray in the nearest store, since the serial numbers often correspond to the base toner, and not the finished mixture. Professionals use this code as a starting point to create a recipe, which is then adjusted to suit the individual characteristics of a particular specimen. Decoding information requires care, especially if the body contains traces of previous repairs using non-original materials.
Computer selection methods and spectrum analysis
Modern technology makes it possible to achieve almost perfect color matching through the use of spectrophotometers that read the reflectivity of the surface. This device analyzes paintwork at several points, taking into account the degree of fading, the presence of an oxide film and the depth of the pigment, which cannot be done visually. Based on the data obtained, the computer program selects the closest formula from the thousands available in the database, offering options with a minimum color delta.
The tinting process involves mixing base pigments in certain proportions, after which a test paint (cast) is created, which is compared with a sample car. The comparison is carried out under different lighting: daylight, artificial and at an angle, since many modern paints have the property of metamerism, changing shade depending on the light source. Only after the color has been approved by the master colorist, the final volume of paint is prepared for the work.
How does a spectrophotometer work?
A spectrophotometer measures the intensity of reflected light at different wavelengths. This allows you to create a digital color profile that takes into account not only the underlying tone, but also the size of the aluminum particles in metallic paints, which is critical for proper highlight.
It is worth noting that even computer selection does not give a 100% guarantee the first time if the car has a complex color history or non-original enamel systems were used. In such cases, manual color finishing is required by an experienced painter, who adds microdoses of corrective pigments. Spectral analysis is the gold standard for expensive and rare flowers, where the cost of error is too high.
Visual assessment and comparison of samples
In situations where the use of high-tech equipment is impossible, the method of visual comparison with fan catalogs and ready-made paints is used. This method requires good lighting and experience, as the human eye is prone to error, especially when assessing complex pearlescent shades. To improve accuracy, it is recommended to apply the fan not to a clean part, but to an area that is subject to the least fading, for example, to the inside of a door or threshold.
Comparisons should be made from several angles, since the angle of incidence of light significantly affects the perception of color, especially for metallic paints. If, when viewed directly, the shades match, but when viewed at an angle (flop effect) they diverge, it means that the wrong size of aluminum powder or concentration of nacre has been selected. The visual method is often used for a quick preliminary assessment before more precise instrumental analysis.
Experienced craftsmen use the “spray” method, applying a test layer of selected paint to an inconspicuous area or test plate to evaluate the behavior of the material after drying. Wet paint always looks darker and richer than dry paint, so it’s impossible to draw definitive conclusions based on fresh application. It is necessary to wait until the solvent has completely evaporated and the varnish has polymerized to see the true color.
Types of automotive enamels and their features
The choice of paint depends not only on the color, but also on the chemical composition, which determines the application technology and the durability of the coating. The main types of modern automotive enamels are acrylic, alkyd (ML) and two-component systems based on polyurethane. Each type has its own advantages: acrylics have good flow and shine, alkyds have high hardness and weather resistance, and polyurethane compounds have exceptional wear resistance.
The effects included in the paint require special attention: solid, metallic, mother-of-pearl and chameleon. Solid is a solid color without glitter and is the easiest to match and repair. Metallic contains aluminum powder, pearl contains mica that creates a deep glow, and chameleon changes color depending on the viewing angle. Each effect requires a specific varnish and application technology, the violation of which will lead to the appearance of stains and different colors.
| Paint type | Features | The need for varnish | Difficulty of selection |
|---|---|---|---|
| Acrylic (1K) | One-component, evaporation dries | Not required | Low |
| Metallic (2K) | Requires thinner and hardener | Required | Average |
| Mother of pearl (3 layers) | Base + mother of pearl + varnish | Required | High |
| Polyurethane | High chemical resistance | Built into the system | Average |
When choosing a material for repair, it is important to consider the compatibility of the new paint with the remnants of the old coating. Applying an aggressive solvent to an incompatible substrate may cause paint lifting, blistering or matte marks. Before starting work, always carry out a compatibility test in a small, hidden area using solvent proposed system.
Accounting for fading and aging of paintwork
One of the main problems when choosing paint is the natural aging of the body under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and precipitation. Even the most accurate factory code will not give an ideal result if the car has been used for more than 5-7 years without garage storage, since the pigments inevitably lose their saturation. The paint on the roof and hood fades more than on the lower parts of the doors or inside the openings, creating a color gradient across the body.
To compensate for fading, craftsmen use a color “stretching” technique or a transition (blend-in), when new paint is applied, capturing part of the adjacent part and shaded. This allows you to hide the boundary between the old faded layer and the new bright coating. Ignoring this fact will result in the freshly painted part looking like a bright spot against the rest of the car.
Tip: If the car is white, keep in mind that white pigments may turn yellow or turn gray over time. The selection should be made according to the most burnt area, and not according to the factory standard.
In some cases, especially when using red and blue pigments, the degree of fading is so great that local repairs become impossible without repainting the entire side of the car or the entire body. Degradation The varnish binder also affects the color perception, making it more matte and less deep, which must be taken into account during polishing and finishing.
Practical advice and checklist
The process of selecting paint requires a systematic approach and adherence to a sequence of actions in order to avoid financial losses and rework. You should start by thoroughly cleaning the code search area and checking all possible locations for its location, since the sticker may have been removed by the previous owner or damaged. You should not rely only on memory or advice from friends; it is better to double-check the data through a VIN request.
☑️ Checklist before buying paint
When ordering paint from a tinting studio, be sure to request a test paint and the ability to compare it with the car under different lighting conditions. If the supplier refuses this service, this may indicate poor quality of the pigments used or lack of professional equipment. High quality colorist I am always ready to be responsible for the accuracy of the selected shade.
⚠️ Attention: Do not skimp on quality pigments and varnishes. Cheap analogues can quickly lose color, fade or peel after one season of use.
The final stage is proper preparation of the surface and compliance with temperature conditions during application, since even perfectly selected paint can give off a tint if not dried correctly. The temperature in the chamber, the pressure in the spray gun and the viscosity of the material - all these parameters affect the final result. Compliance with technology is the guarantee that the selected paint will lie smoothly and be indistinguishable from the factory coating.
The main conclusion: The ideal selection of paint is a combination of the exact factory code, professional tinting taking into account fading and proper application by a master.
Is it possible to select paint based only on the VIN code without a color code?
Yes, it's possible. The VIN code contains complete information about the vehicle's configuration, including the factory paint code. By contacting an official dealer or using specialized online services for VIN decoding, you can get the exact name and color code that was used for the paint. However, this does not guarantee a perfect match on an older car due to burnout.
Why is the paint selected according to the code different on a car?
The difference may occur due to natural fading of pigments under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, differences in factory paint batches, as well as due to previous repairs using non-original materials. In addition, drying conditions and layer thickness during factory painting and during repair may differ, which affects the visual perception of color.
How long does computer paint selection take?
The computer selection process using a spectrophotometer usually takes from 30 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the complexity of the color and the queue in the tinting studio. If manual color finishing by a master is required, the time can increase to several hours or even days if you need to order rare pigments.
What to do if the paint code on the body is not readable?
If the sticker is damaged or missing, you can try to find the code in the car's service book, on the original paint can (if it is still there), or request information from the dealer using the VIN code. As a last resort, you will have to resort to a full computer color selection based on a sample from the car body.