How to choose the paint for the car yourself

Restoration of paintwork is a process that requires maximum accuracy, because even the slightest difference in shade will make the repair noticeable to the eyes. The owner of a vehicle often faces a dilemma: trust an expensive colorist or try to find the right tone for yourself. Independent paint-making It is possible if you carefully study the marking of the body and understand the logic of the manufacturers.

Modern automotive enamels are complex chemical compounds that change their properties under the influence of time and the environment. Therefore, the search for the perfect match does not begin with a trip to the store, but with a careful examination of documents and signs on the body. In this article, we will discuss an algorithm of actions that will help you avoid buying inappropriate material.

The main difficulty is that the same factory code can imply different shades depending on the year of the model. Metallics And pearls are particularly capricious, as they contain reflective particles, the direction of which affects the perception of color. Understanding these nuances will save you money and nerves.

Where to look for the paint code on the body of the car

The first and most important step is to detect a factory plate or sticker with technical information. The location of this element depends on the make and model of your car, and there is no single standard. Most often, manufacturers are placed colour-code on the body rack, in the hood space or in the luggage compartment.

European brands, such as Volkswagen, Audi or BMWThe information is often duplicated in the service book and on the sticker in the trunk, next to the spare wheel. Japanese manufacturers, including Toyota and MazdaUsually hide the sign under the hood, on the partition of the engine compartment or on the middle rack of the body from the driver's side. It is important to wipe these places from dust to clearly see the symbols.

⚠️ Warning: Never rely on a visual comparison of the color of a gas tank hatch with a flower fan in a store. Over the years of operation, the body burns out, and the real shade can be very different from the factory standard.

If the sticker is erased or missing, the code can be found in the VIN code, although this does not always give a 100% result in hue, but will definitely indicate the base color. To search, use special online decoders, driving a 17-digit body number there. This will help narrow the search and understand which one. pigment It was used in painting.

Below is a table with an approximate location of codes for popular brands, which will simplify your task:

Decoding of factory designations and catalogs

Once you have found the cherished letters and numbers, the stage of their correct interpretation comes. A paint code is not just a set of symbols, but an exact formula that the manufacturer uses. For example, the VAG code may look like LY7Cwhere the first characters indicate the color, and the last - the type of coating or hue.

Often there are two codes on the plate: one for the main color, the other for the lower layer or shade, which is especially important for two-component metallic. When ordering material in the color studio, both values must be provided, if they are specified. A single-digit error can result in a light blue tint instead of a deep blue.

Using RAL or NCS catalogs to select car paint is a gross mistake. Car colors are developed individually by manufacturers and do not always correspond to standard industrial fans. It is best to use specialized catalogs. Mobihel, PPG or DuxoneThe colors are tied to specific models of cars.

For accurate selection, it is recommended to use computer programs that build a mixing recipe according to the entered code. However, even the program does not guarantee a perfect hit if the paint on the machine has already faded. In such cases, manual adjustment of tone by the colorist is required.

Differences in Types of Automotive Enamels

Before you buy a can of paint, you need to clearly understand what type of coating is applied to your car. The wrong choice of enamel type will lead to the fact that the part will differ not only in color, but also in structure, and also require a completely different technology of applying varnish. The main types are acrylic enamel, metallic and mother of pearl.

Acrylic paints (solid) do not contain reflective particles and look the same at any viewing angle. They are easier to apply and often do not require a mandatory varnish coating, although modern standards recommend varnishing them for protection. Metals also contain aluminum powder, which creates a glowing effect, but requires the mandatory application of a lacquer layer.

• 🎨 Basic acrylic - monochrome enamel, dries quickly, is often used in the budget segment and for commercial vehicles.
• ✨ Metallic - contains aluminum particles, requires the application of a base and subsequent varnish for the manifestation of color depth.
• 🌈 pearl - contains mica, changes shade depending on the angle of incidence of light, the most difficult material in the selection and application.

To distinguish metallic from acrylic, you can carefully examine the surface in bright light. If you see small, shiny patches that shimmer when you move, before you metallic or mother of pearl. If the color is smooth and matte (before varnishing), it is most likely acrylic.

The effect of age of the car on the color of the body

One of the main reasons why the paint chosen by the code, may differ from reality, is the natural aging of the coating. Ultraviolet radiation, temperature changes, acid rain and reagents on roads inevitably change the structure of the pigment. Red and black fade the fastest, losing saturation.

If the car is more than 5-7 years old, buying paint strictly according to the factory code without prior layout of the sample can be a mistake. The new layer will look brighter and more contrasting, standing out as a “spot” against the background of the burned-out body. In such cases, professionals recommend doing so. stretcher or color transition.

For old cars, the method of computer selection with a sample is relevant. You cut a piece of paint in an inconspicuous place (for example, under the molding or inside the doorway) and carry it to the lab. The computer analyzes the spectral composition of the faded pigment and selects a formula that compensates for the loss of color.

⚠️ Warning: Do not try to polish the burnt paint to factory condition. Abrasive will only remove the oxidized layer, but will not return the lost pigment, but thin the coating to the ground.

It is also worth considering that different body elements can burn out with different intensity. Horizontal surfaces (roof, hood) are more aggressively exposed to the sun than vertical ones (doors, racks). Therefore, when locally repairing the door, the color may coincide with the bottom, but differ from the roof.

Tools for self-checking shade

For those who decide to take the issue as seriously as possible, there are ways to check the conformity of the paint without visiting the laboratory. Of course, a professional spectrophotometer is expensive, but there are more affordable methods for a home craftsman. One of them is the use of special applications for a smartphone with a calibrated screen.

Another method is to create test colors. Buy a minimum amount of selected paint and apply it to a metal plate or a hidden section of the body. After drying and applying the varnish, compare the result under different lighting: in the shade, under direct sunlight and under artificial light. Metallics They change their appearance depending on the light source.

You can also use the "wet wipe" method. If you wipe the body area with a wet white napkin, there should be no traces of paint on it (if the coating is in good condition). If you plan to paint, make sure that the surface is fat-free, otherwise the test sample will fall incorrectly.

Don’t forget the importance of proper lighting. In the garage with yellow lamps one shade, on the street in cloudy weather - another. It is ideal to compare colors in daylight diffuse light, avoiding direct sunlight glare that distorts perception. mother-of-pearl.

Technology of application and fixing of the result

Even perfectly selected paint can spoil the appearance of the car, if the technology of its application is broken. Surface preparation, solvent selection and temperature compliance are critical steps. Different types of enamel are used for different types of enamel solvent (fast, medium, slow), the choice of which depends on the temperature in the paint chamber.

Apply the paint in several thin layers, giving each time for "sticking" (interlayer drying). The first layer is often made more foggy to provide adhesion, and the subsequent layers are wet to dial color and form the metallic structure. Failure to comply with this rule will lead to discord and defects.

After applying the base, the lacquering stage necessarily follows. Lacquer protects the pigment from fading and gives depth. It is important to give the base to dry enough time, but not to overstay it, otherwise the varnish may not "fall" into the structure, which will lead to detachment. The drying time is indicated in the technical map of the product.

The final stage is the polishing of the transitions. Even with careful work, the boundary between old and new paint can be noticeable. Abrasive polishing allows you to smooth out the difference in heights of the varnish (swings) and make the transition visually imperceptible. This requires skill and special polishing pastes.

Frequent mistakes in choosing and buying

Independent selection of paint is full of pitfalls, and beginners often step on the same rake. One of the most common mistakes is buying paint by eye in a construction store. Car colors have a complex structure, and household enamel simply will not be able to repeat the desired shade and properties.

Another mistake is to ignore the volume. Buying paint for the future, you risk facing the fact that in six months left open jar thicken or covered with film. Store car enamel need to be in a sealed container, in a cool place, but it also has an expiration date.

• ❌ Buying paint without checking the production date – old materials may lose properties.
• ❌ Ignoring the need to buy varnish and hardener for two-component systems.
• ❌ Attempting to mix paint from different manufacturers – the chemical composition may be incompatible.

They often forget about the consumption of material. One detail may take more paint than planned due to loss during transfer with the spray gun. Always take a material with a margin of 10-15%, especially if the color is complex, for example, candy Or three-layer mother of pearl.

⚠️ Warning: Do not mix the remains of different colors in the hope of getting the desired color. The chemical reaction can be unpredictable and you will get unsuitable slurry instead of working enamel.

Remember that saving on the quality of paint or hardener often leads to the need to redo the work after a short time. Cheap components can become cloudy, swell or lose their shine after one season of operation.