Moving metal garage is a complex engineering task that requires careful preparation and understanding of physical stress. Many car owners are faced with the need to move a structure several meters or completely transport it to a new site without resorting to the services of expensive lifting equipment. Itβs quite possible to do this yourself if you have reliable assistants and the right set of tools.
The main difficulty lies in the enormous weight of the structure, which can reach several tons, and the risk of deformation of the frame due to uneven distribution of forces. Incorrect actions can lead to wall panels will fly out of the grooves, and the welds will burst under tension. In this article, we'll look at proven methods to safely move an object using nothing more than levers, jacks, and traction.
Before proceeding with physical actions, it is necessary to conduct an audit of the current state of the structure. Pay special attention to integrity load-bearing columns and the lower perimeter, since these are the elements that will bear the main weight during lifting. Ignoring this stage can be fatal to the whole venture.
β οΈ Attention: If the metal in the lower part of the frame is heavily corroded (affected by rust) and has through holes, it is strictly forbidden to lift the garage with jacks - the structure can fold like a house of cards.
Design preparation and risk assessment
The first step is complete perimeter cleaning garage from soil, asphalt or concrete blind area. It is necessary to dig a trench along the entire contour with a depth of at least 30-40 cm in order to gain access to the lower profile. This will allow you to visually assess the condition of the metal and prepare points for installing jacks.
Next, you should dismantle all additional elements that increase windage or weight. Remove gates if they are hinged, remove gutters, vents, and any interior shelves attached to the walls. Lightweight design easier to move and less likely to get distorted.
- π¨ Check the welds for cracks, especially in the corners of the frame.
- π§Ή Clean the interior space of oils, tools and construction debris.
- π Measure the dimensions to plan the rollback path and new installation location.
- π οΈ Strengthen weak points with metal overlays or wooden bars from the inside.
It is also important to prepare temporary supports. Wooden beams with a cross section of 150x150 mm or special metal stands are suitable for this. They must be of different heights in order to be able to gradually increase the level of lift. Without reliable insurance, working with jacks under a multi-ton load is deadly.
Required tools and materials
To successfully complete a project, you will need specialized tools that can withstand extreme loads. The main engine of the process will be hydraulic jacks. It is advisable to have at least two, and preferably four devices with a lifting capacity of 10 tons each. The use of automotive diamond jacks is prohibited.
To create a sliding surface and distribute pressure, you will need steel pipes with a diameter of 50-70 mm or round bars. Also an indispensable element is winch (manual or electric) with a traction force of at least 2 tons, which will ensure horizontal movement after lifting.
| Tool | Purpose | Min. characteristic |
|---|---|---|
| Bottle jack | Vertical lift | 10-16 tons |
| Winch | Horizontal thrust | 2000 kg |
| Steel pipes | Rollers for moving | Diameter 50+ mm |
| Assembly crowbars | Position adjustment | Length 1+ meter |
Don't forget about personal protective equipment. Working with heavy metals requires construction helmets, thick gloves and shoes with metal toes. Any loose tool or broken cable can cause serious injury.
Use a level or hydraulic level during the lifting process to control the horizontal level of the structure. A misalignment of more than 5 degrees can lead to jamming of the doors and deformation of the frame.
Technology for lifting a garage with jacks
The lifting process begins with the installation of jacks in the prepared recesses. The fulcrum should be the most powerful element of the lower contour - usually this channel or corner. Be sure to place a steel plate or thick board between the jack head and the metal so as not to push through the wall and distribute point pressure.
You need to raise the garage in stages. First, raise one side by 3-5 cm, after which safety bars are immediately placed. Then the operation is repeated on the opposite side. It is critical not to lift the entire structure at the same time from one side, as this creates a huge bending moment that can twist the frame.
β οΈ Warning: Never stand under a raised garage or put your hands or feet under it to adjust supports while the jack is under pressure.
After the garage is torn off the ground along the entire perimeter, they start under it rollers - steel pipes. They are laid across the direction of movement. At this stage, the structure actually hangs on the pipes, resting on them through the lower profile. No further jacking is required unless the terrain requires overcoming obstacles.
Horizontal movement methods
When the garage is standing on roller pipes, the stage of horizontal movement begins. To do this, use a winch attached to a reliable anchor (for example, a buried pole or another garage) in the direction of movement. The winch cable clings to the lower part of the front wall or to special eyelets, welded for this case.
The principle of movement resembles the operation of a caterpillar mechanism: while the garage moves through the pipes, the last pipe is released at the back. It needs to be moved forward, placed under the front part. Thus, the garage constantly travels through two or three pipes, and the vacated ones are elemental.
- π When using a tractor or vehicle for traction, maintain a minimum speed.
- π₯ Coordinate the actions of the team: one person controls the winch, others monitor the skating rinks.
- π Have a stop light or loud whistle to stop the process in an emergency.
If the garage needs to be rotated, on one side they create more friction (they place bars), and on the other they pull more actively. For precise adjustment in a new location, mounting tools are used. withdrawal symptoms, which can be used to move the structure a few centimeters in any direction.
βοΈ Ready to move
Installation on a new foundation
The final stage is lowering the structure onto the prepared foundation. New foundation must be perfectly aligned with the horizon. Lowering is carried out in the reverse order: the garage is raised with jacks, the rollers are removed from under it, and it is smoothly lowered onto the support plates or base.
After installation, you need to check the geometry of the openings. Doors should close easily, without jamming. If a misalignment occurs, it can be corrected by raising the corresponding angle and placing adjusting plates under the base.
The finishing touch is to seal the joints. When moving, the seal may have been broken. Go over all the seams bitumen mastic or a special roofing sealant to prevent moisture from getting inside.
What to do if your garage is stuck?
If during movement the pipes go into the ground or the garage jams, do not try to break the cable. It is necessary to jack up the stuck part, compact the soil under the pipe with crushed stone, or place wide metal sheets to increase the support area.
The main secret of success is uniformity of effort. Jerks and distortions during lifting or traction are the main reason for the destruction of welded joints in old garages.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to move the garage in winter?
This is technically possible, but highly undesirable. Frozen soil creates enormous resistance, and metal in the cold becomes brittle and can burst when deformed. In addition, working with jacks and winches on slippery snow is dangerous.
How many people do you need to move?
The minimum team is 3 people: one winch operator and two assistants who monitor the rollers and lay pipes. However, for safety and speed it is better to have 4-5 people.
Do I need to remove the roof before moving?
If the garage is prefabricated (bolted), then dismantling the roof and walls will greatly facilitate the process. If it is a welded one-piece structure, you cannot remove the roof, as this will disrupt the rigidity of the frame, and the garage may collapse.
Which jack is better to use?
The ideal choice is a hydraulic bottle jack with a lifting capacity of 10 tons or more. Screw jacks are less reliable when holding weight for a long time and can break under load.