With the onset of autumn rains or spring thaw, many garage owners face an unpleasant problem: water begins to drip from the ceiling, forming puddles on the floor and spoiling the car or tools stored there. Roof leakage This is not just a temporary inconvenience, but a signal that the waterproofing layer is destroyed and requires immediate intervention. If you ignore even small drops, moisture can lead to corrosion of the metal frame, rotting of wooden structures and the appearance of dangerous mold.
Repairing the roof of the garage is a task that can be done independently, if you correctly determine the cause of the leak and choose the appropriate materials. Modern technologies allow you to carry out localization without completely removing the old cover, which significantly saves the budget. However, the success of the event directly depends on the quality of surface preparation and compliance with the technology of waterproofing.
In this article, we will discuss in detail how to find the source of the leak, what materials are best suited for different types of roofs and how to do the work so that you forget about the problem for many years. It doesn’t matter if your roof is flat or flat, it’s covered. ruberoid or slate - the principles of eliminating defects are similar in many ways, but have their own nuances.
Diagnosis of damage and search for leakage sources
Before buying materials and taking active actions, it is necessary to conduct a thorough diagnosis. Often the place where water drips inside the garage doesn't match the actual hole on the roof. Water can flow in one place and then flow down the inner layers of the pie or structural elements, finding an exit a few meters from the source. Therefore, the search should begin with an external inspection of the roofing.
Carefully inspect the surface for visible damage: bloating, cracks, tears or detachments of the material. Pay special attention to the places of adjoining the roof to the walls, ventilation pipes and drains. It is in these areas that most often are violated. tightness Because of the temperature expansion and shrinkage of the building. If the roof is flat, look for places where “pockets” with standing water have formed – this is where waterproofing breaks down the fastest.
⚠️ Attention: Inspection of the roof is carried out only in dry weather and in the presence of reliable safety equipment. Working on wet or icy surfaces is deadly!
To more accurately identify problem areas, the method of “dry verification” can be used. Clean the suspicious areas of debris and foliage, then slightly tap on the surface. A deaf sound may indicate the presence of voids under the coating, where moisture has accumulated. It is also worth checking the condition. drainageIf they are clogged, water can overflow over the edge and flow under the roof carpet.
Selection of materials for repair of flat roof
The choice of material for repairs depends on the type of roof and budget. For flat roofs, which make up most garage structures in cooperatives, bitumen-polymer materials are traditionally used. They have high elasticity and resistance to temperature changes. Among the market leaders, euroruberoidIt is significantly superior to the classic cardboard ruberoid in terms of service life.
If you plan to repair without using an open fire (which is important for wooden garages or in the absence of a gas burner), a great choice will be adhesive materials with a self-adhesive layer or liquid rubber. Liquid rubber It forms a seamless monolithic coating, ideally fitting any irregularities and complex nodes. It is especially effective in repairing old roofs with many small cracks.
For local repair of small areas, you can use special bitumen mastics and sealants. They are sold in finished form and do not require complex preparation. However, for large areas, their use is economically inexpedient. It is important that the material chosen is compatible with the existing coating, otherwise a chemical reaction may occur that destroys the coating. waterproofing.
Comparison of material lifespan
Classic ruberoids last 3-5 years, Euroruberoid on glass-based - up to 15 years, and polymer-bitumen membranes can last more than 25 years with proper installation.
Technology of repair of rolled roof (ruberoid)
Repair of a rolled roof is a process that requires accuracy and compliance with the temperature regime. If the damage is local (swelling or a small crack), there is no point in remoulding the entire roof. Enough to do plate-work. To do this, the damaged area is cleaned of dirt, a cross-shaped incision is made, the edges are bent and the interior is dried with a building hairdryer. Then a piece of bitumen mastic or molten bitumen is laid inside, after which the edges are pressed and closed with a patch of new material, protruding beyond the edges of the damage by 15-20 cm.
If there are multiple defects or the coating has expired, full or partial recasting is required. The old coating, if it is held firmly, can not be removed, but used as an aligning layer. The surface is thoroughly cleaned, ground with a primer (a bitumen solution in gasoline or a specialized composition) and allowed to dry. Only then will they begin to build a new layer. euroruberoid.
The melting is produced by a gas burner, uniformly heating the lower layer of the material and the base until the glossy shine of bitumen appears. It is important not to overheat the material, otherwise it will lose its properties. Rolling is done slowly, rolling roller to squeeze out air. The overlap of the canvases should be at least 10 cm for the lower layer and 15 cm for the upper one. Particular attention is paid to the places adjacent to the parapets and pipes, where additional elements of roofing steel or patterns from the ruberoid itself are used.
☑️ Checklist for preparation for melting
⚠️ Warning: When working with open fire and bitumen materials, always have a fire extinguisher and a box with a sandbox on hand. Bitumen is easily ignited when overheated!
Repair of slate and metal roofing
Garages with pitched roof, covered with slate or profnatile, require a different approach. Slate (asbestos cement sheet) over time becomes porous and overgrown with moss, which contributes to the retention of moisture. Cracks on the slate can be fixed with a special solution consisting of cement, asbestos and PVA glue, or use bitumen mastics with a reinforcement mesh. Before applying the composition, the crack is widened, cleaned and degreased.
Metal roofs (profencing, galvanizing) suffer from corrosion and weakening of fasteners. If the rust is through, the sheet is better to replace. Small foci of corrosion are cleaned with a metal brush to metal, processed rust converter And they're coated with anti-corrosion primer. For sealing joints and holes around screws, polyurethane sealants for roofing work are excellent, which remain elastic after drying.
An important step is to check the status fixing-piece. Rubber washers on screws eventually dry up and begin to pass water. They should be replaced with new ones, having chosen a similar size. If the holes under screws have increased in diameter due to corrosion, you can hammer a wooden blade coated with sealant into them and re-rotate the fastener with displacement.
Use roof screws with EPDM-laying - they serve much longer than conventional rubber counterparts and better tolerate ultraviolet.
Comparison of characteristics of roofing materials
To facilitate the choice of material for repair, it is worth comparing the main characteristics of popular options. Different types of coatings have their advantages and disadvantages, which directly affect the durability of repairs and laborious work.
| Materials | Duration of service (years) | Difficulty of installation | Resistance to UV |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ruberoid (cardboard) | 3-5 | Low. | Low. |
| Euroruberoid (glass-based) | 10-15 | Medium | Medium |
| Polymer membrane | 20-30 | Tall. | Tall. |
| Liquid rubber | 15-20 | Low. | Tall. |
| Bitumen mastic | 5-7 | Low. | Medium |
As can be seen from the table, modern materials based on fiberglass and polymers are much superior to traditional solutions. However, for temporary or budget repairs can be sufficient and high-quality bitumenIf you put it in several layers with reinforcement.
Removal of leaks in areas of adjoining and nodes
The most vulnerable places of any roof are the nodes adjacent to vertical surfaces: walls, parapets, ventilation shafts. It is here that cracks are most often formed due to the different speed of thermal expansion of materials. For high-quality sealing of these zones, it is not enough just to smear with mastic.
There is a proven technology for arranging adjoining. In the wall at a height of 20-30 cm from the roof level, a groove (groove) is broken. It is injected edge waterproofing carpet or a metal apron, which is then fixed and sealed. The vertical part of the adjoinment is necessarily closed with an additional layer of material or galvanizedThis prevents water from flowing under the main carpet.
All corners and joints should be reinforced. To do this, use galtels (triangular slats) made of wood or polystyrene foam, which are laid in the corner of the adjoining before the flooring of the main layer. This avoids breaking the material at right angles, which would inevitably lead to its rupture in the future. After laying the galleys, the surface is smeared with mastic and reinforced with a grid.
High-quality sealing of adjoining areas is more important than the condition of the main roof field, since 80% of leaks occur in the nodes.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I put a new ruberoid on the old one?
Yes, this is possible if the old coating does not have multiple swelling with water and is firmly held on the base. The old layer will serve as additional waterproofing and leveling basis. However, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned, dried and primered to ensure adhesion.
At what temperature can the roof be repaired?
The optimal temperature for working with bitumen materials is from +5 ° C to +25 ° C. At lower temperatures, bitumen becomes brittle and sticks poorly, and at too high it can float. Work in winter is possible only with the use of greenhouses or special frost-resistant compounds.
What is better to close the crack in the slate: cement or sealant?
For long-term repairs, it is better to use a specialized roof sealant or asphalt mastic with a reinforcement mesh. The cement solution may crack over time due to vibrations and temperature expansions of the slate, while the sealant remains elastic.
Do I need to remove the old layer of snow before repairing in winter?
Repairing the roof over the snow is absolutely impossible. Snow and ice must be completely removed and the surface dry. The presence of moisture under the new layers of waterproofing will lead to boiling water when the material is heated and detached.
How many layers of ruberoid do I need to lay?
For reliable protection, two layers are usually laid: the lower (lining) and the upper (with protective sprinkling). In places of increased risk (endows, adjoining), it is recommended to add a third layer. A single layer is allowed only as a temporary measure.