Owners of LADA cars are often faced with the need to replace the standard signal receiver, whether due to its breakdown or the desire to install a more modern model. The question is how to unscrew the antenna on Grant, occurs regularly, since factory elements are often subject to corrosion or mechanical stress. The dismantling process directly depends on the type of equipment installed: pin or fin (shark).
Carrying out this procedure yourself allows you to save money on car service costs and guarantees the accuracy of the work. It is important to understand that inept actions can damage car roof or break the tightness of the body, which will lead to leaks. In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions for different types of antennas, the necessary tools and nuances that are silent about in the official manuals.
Before you begin, you need to prepare your work area and make sure you have all the components. Do not ignore safety precautions, as working with metal and electrical components requires care. The threaded connection of the standard antenna on the Grant often gets stuck, so without penetrating lubricant (WD-40) the process can take a long time.
Determining the type of antenna device
The first step is a visual inspection and classification of the equipment. On Lada Granta In different years of production, various modifications of signal receivers were installed. Whip antennas, as a rule, have a threaded mount and are unscrewed directly from the outside. The fin structures, reminiscent of a shark's fin, are bolted from inside the cabin or snapped on, requiring partial disassembly of the headliner.
If you have an active antenna installed (with an amplifier), then in addition to mechanical dismantling, you will need to disconnect the electrical connector. Passive models lack this element and are easier to remove. Determining the device type is critical to selecting a disassembly and tooling strategy. A mistake at this stage can lead to an attempt to rip off the bolts where you just need to unscrew the threads.
In some configurations there are combined antennas designed not only for radio, but also for GPS/GLONASS navigation. Such modules often have a more complex mounting system and additional wires. Carefully examine the base of the device before starting active operations.
- π Whip antenna - a classic version with a threaded connection, often found in basic configurations.
- π¦ Fin antenna - modern design, bolted from the interior, often combined with navigation.
- β‘ Active antenna - requires a power connection, has a built-in signal amplifier.
- π‘ Passive antenna - does not require power, the signal is amplified in the head unit (radio).
It is worth noting that on restyled models the fastening design may have undergone changes. If you are the owner of a car manufactured after 2018, it is recommended that you first study the forums or manuals specifically for your body modification (liftback or sedan). This will help avoid surprises during the work process.
Necessary tools and preparation
To perform the task efficiently, you will need a minimum set of tools, which most car enthusiasts can find in their garage. The main requirement is that the tool must be in good working order and match the dimensions of the fasteners so as not to tear off the edges. To work with electrical work, you will also need insulating materials.
It is important to purchase automotive sealant in advance. After dismantling the old antenna and before installing a new one, it is necessary to ensure reliable waterproofing of the hole in the roof. Using low-quality sealant can lead to moisture entering the interior and metal corrosion.
βοΈ Preparation for dismantling
The list of required equipment includes:
- π οΈ Set of open-end and spanner wrenches (main sizes 10, 13 mm).
- π§ Flat and Phillips screwdrivers for working with trim and clamps.
- π§΄ Penetrating lubricant (WD-40 or equivalent) for treating soured threads.
- π§½ Surface degreaser (anti-silicone) to prepare space for sealant.
It is better to carry out work in a dry room or in a garage so that moisture does not enter the interior when the antenna is removed. If this is not possible, choose a day without precipitation. It is also recommended to remove the terminal from the battery if you plan to work with active antenna wiring to avoid short circuits.
Removing the whip antenna
Removing the whip-type antenna is the simplest option and does not require disassembling the interior. In most cases, it is simply screwed into a base attached to the roof. However, if the antenna cannot be removed, do not use excessive force to avoid damaging the body.
The process begins by treating the thread joint with a penetrating lubricant. Let the mixture work for 10-15 minutes to dissolve rust and dirt. After this, you can try unscrewing the antenna counterclockwise.
β οΈ Attention: If the antenna cannot be unscrewed by hand, use an adjustable wrench or special pullers, but be sure to wrap the base of the antenna with a rag so as not to scratch the paintwork of the roof.
After successfully dismantling the external element, it is often necessary to remove the metal sleeve (base) itself if you plan to replace it with a different type. This may require access from the interior, but on many Granta models the base is held on a nut under the headliner, which can be reached by slightly bending the edge.
What to do if the antenna breaks when unscrewing?
If the antenna pin breaks off and the thread remains inside, try to carefully drill out the remaining parts using a drill of a smaller diameter. Then use a tap to re-thread or drill out the entire hole for a new type of fastener.>
Removing the fin antenna (shark)
Removing the shark antenna is a more labor-intensive process that requires partial disassembly of the interior. The main mount is located under the ceiling trim, so access is limited. You will need to remove the ceiling light or part of the trim in the central ceiling area.
First, carefully pry up the plastic interior light with a flat-head screwdriver. It is held on by latches, so be careful not to break the plastic. Disconnect the electrical connector for the lamp and move it to the side. Under it or next to it you will see access holes for the antenna mounting nuts.
Using a socket or wrench (usually 10mm), unscrew the nuts holding the antenna housing in place. There are usually two or three of them. After this, the antenna can be carefully removed from the outside. Be careful with the wires running inside the cabin - they may be short.
- π Remove the decorative overlays of the rack if they prevent you from bending the trim.
- π Disconnect the antenna connector from the radio or amplifier (located behind the glove compartment or in the trunk).
- π§Ή Thoroughly clean the installation site of old sealant and dirt.
When reinstalling the new shark, be sure to apply a fresh coat of sealant. Standard rubber gaskets become tanned over time and no longer hold water. Reliable sealing is the key to eliminating stains on the ceiling in the future.
Comparison of antenna characteristics
When choosing a new antenna, owners often think about which type is best suited for their operating conditions. Below is a comparison table to help you make your choice when replacing standard equipment.
| Characteristics | Whip antenna | Fin (Shark) | Internal (on the windshield) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reception quality | High (especially away from the city) | Medium/High | Depends on the quality of installation |
| Aerodynamics | Makes noise at speed | Silent | Does not affect |
| Difficulty of replacement | Low | Medium (requires access to salon) | Low |
| Appearance | Classic | Modern | Invisible |
| Price | Low | Medium/High | Low |
The choice depends on your priorities: if maximum reception range in remote areas is important to you, the pin version may be more effective. Better suited for urban use and aesthetics fin antenna. Internal antennas are a compromise option for those who are afraid to drill into the roof or spoil the appearance.
Sealing and installation of new equipment
The key stage on which the durability of the installation depends is sealing. Regardless of the type of antenna, the point of contact with the body must be protected. The old sealant must be completely removed and the surface degreased with solvent or anti-silicone.
Apply an even layer of sealant to the base of the new antenna or to the body around the hole. Do not save material, but also do not allow it to be squeezed into the interior when tightening. After installing the antenna and tightening the fasteners, excess sealant can be removed immediately before it hardens.
β οΈ Attention: Complete drying of automotive sealant takes from 12 to 24 hours. During this period, it is not recommended to pressure wash the car or expose it to heavy rain.
If you are installing an active antenna, be sure to route the power wire correctly. It should be guided along the standard wiring, secured with plastic clamps. Avoid laying the wire near moving elements (door hinges, window lift mechanisms).
Common mistakes during dismantling
Many car enthusiasts make typical mistakes when trying to quickly solve a problem. The most common of them is an attempt to unscrew a rusty antenna βdryβ. This almost guarantees that the edges will lick off or the base will break.
Another mistake is using the wrong sealant. Silicone for bathtubs or aquariums does not have the necessary adhesion to metal and resistance to temperature changes typical for car operation. In six months, this βsealingβ will begin to leak.
They also often forget to check the integrity of the antenna cable itself before final assembly. If the wire is broken or oxidized, even the best antenna will not pick up the signal. It is better to check with a multimeter or by connecting to a working radio before the final tightening.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Do I need to remove the battery when replacing the antenna?
If you are replacing a passive antenna, it is not necessary to remove the battery. However, when working with an active antenna (where there is a power wire), it is recommended to remove the negative terminal to avoid an accidental short circuit when connecting the wires.
How can I replace the standard sealant if I donβt have it on hand?
As a last resort, you can use high-quality sanitary silicone marked βfor outdoor use,β but it is better to purchase a special automotive polyurethane sealant or butyl rubber tape, which are designed for such conditions.
Why does the new antenna catch worse than the old one?
The reason may be poor connector contact, lack of grounding (for some types of antennas) or that the new antenna is passive, and the radio is configured to work with an active one. Check the amplifier settings in the radio menu.
Can the new antenna be painted to match the body color?
Yes, the plastic parts of the shark can be painted. However, it is not recommended to paint the metal pin, as a layer of paint may impair signal reception. For painting, use automotive enamel after priming the plastic.