Car owners often face a situation when the ideal appearance of the body prevents a scratch, chip or burnt out area. The desire to restore the factory look is natural, but without an accurate knowledge of the shade it turns into a lottery. Paint selection This is not just a choice of color by eye, but a complex technical procedure that requires identification of the factory code.
Unfortunately, the names like Red Fire or Blue Lagoon are rarely found in the catalogs of automakers. Instead of poetic names, a dry numeric or alphanumeric code is used, which is tied to a specific batch and year of issue. Nuance. The colors may differ even within the same model if they are released at different times.
That is why the search for accurate marking becomes a priority before contacting the color studio. An error at this stage will lead to the fact that the new element will differ from the main body, and the work will have to be remade. In this article, we will discuss all available methods for finding information about the paint coating of your car.
Search for factory markings on the body
The most reliable and quick way to find out the paint code is to find a factory plate or sticker located directly on the body of the car. Manufacturers place them in standard locations to facilitate the identification of parts and materials during repairs. It is usually an aluminum plate or a dense sticker containing a VIN number and other technical information.
Most often, such tablets can be found in the underhood space. It can be the wall of the engine compartment, the inner part of the wing or even the hood itself on the inside. Some brands, for example, BMW or Mercedes-BenzA color code sticker is often located on the central pillar of the body under the driver's or passenger's door.
It is important to understand that the designation of color can be signed with different abbreviations. Look for the inscriptions. C, Color, Paint, Farbe or LRZ. Next to these letters is usually a code of 2-4 characters. Sometimes the paint code is stamped right on the body next to the VIN number, especially on older models.
⚠️ Warning: Never use aggressive chemicals or abrasives to clean a factory plate. If the marking is rubbed or glued, it is better to look for duplicate information than to damage the metal or erase the numbers permanently.
Visual inspection can be difficult due to dirt or corrosion. In such cases, it is recommended to gently wipe the surface with soft rags. If the plate is missing (which happens after body repairs or replacement of doors), you will have to use alternative search methods.
If you find a sticker but the code is made up of several lines, look for one labeled "Body Color" or "Paint." The remaining codes may refer to the color of the cabin, discs or plastic elements.
Color identification by VIN code
If the physical sign on the car is not found or damaged, help comes to the rescue. VIN code (Vehicle Identification Number). It is a unique identifier that contains encrypted information about all the characteristics of the machine, including the factory color. However, "forehead" to read the color of 17 characters will not work - you need a decoding.
There are several ways to get data from VIN. The easiest way is to contact the official dealer of the brand. The parts manager will be able to break through the equipment and name the exact paint code. There are also specialized online services and databases that provide the full vehicle specification on request.
Keep in mind that databases are not always perfect. There may be errors, especially if the car was assembled from car kits in another country or has a non-standard history. Therefore, the data obtained by VIN should always be rechecked visually or spectral analysis.
When contacting the service or store of auto-enames, be prepared to name not only the VIN, but also the year of release, since in different years the same code could correspond to different shades due to changes in pigment production technology.
Computer selection and spectral analysis
When documentary sources are exhausted, modern technology comes into play. Computer color selection is a process in which the colorist with the help of special equipment determines the composition and shade of the coating. This is the most accurate method for old cars that have been in repainting.
The essence of the method is to use a spectrophotometer. This device "reads" reflected light from the surface of the body and builds a digital color model. The program analyzes not only the main tone, but also the presence of the metallic, mother-of-pearl or xyralic (The effect of color change depending on the angle of view).
The selection process is as follows:
- 🎨 The wizard selects an inconspicuous section of the body (for example, inside the doorway) for measurement to avoid the effects of burnout.
- 💻 The program compares the data with thousands of formulas in the database and offers the closest option.
- 🧪 The colorist makes a test color (a sample on a metal plate), which is dried and compared with the body under different lighting.
The main advantage of the method is the ability to take into account the natural aging of the varnish. Even if you find the factory code, the paint could change the hue in 10 years. Computer selection allows you to create a mixture that will lie perfectly on the current state of the car, and not on what it was when leaving the cabin.
Spectral analysis is indispensable if the car has been partially repainted earlier and the factory code no longer corresponds to reality.
Table of popular codes of manufacturers
To make it easier for you to navigate the markings, we have compiled tables with examples of codes of popular brands. Remember that each manufacturer has its own coding system, and the same visual color can have completely different designations for different brands.
| Make of car | Example of code | Colour description | Where to find |
|---|---|---|---|
| Volkswagen | LC9A, LY7C | Black, Grey. | In the trunk under the carpet or in the service book |
| Toyota | 040, 1G3 | Super white, Silver. | On the central body pillar |
| BMW | A96, 475 | Black Sapphire, Grey Storm | Under the hood on a glass or rack |
| Hyundai | WA, PB | White, blue. | On the sign in the doorway of the driver's door |
| Ford | YZ, M6876A | White onyx, Red. | On the back or in the trunk |
As you can see from the table, codes can be either purely digital or contain letters. Some Asian manufacturers (for example, the Honda or Nissan) the code often consists of two parts: the primary color and the hue code separated by a dash or dot.
Don’t try to buy enamel simply by the color name, such as “White”. One manufacturer can have up to 15 shades of white, from milk to snow. Using the wrong code will cause the painted part to look like a patch.
Features of searching for code for different brands
Each car company has its own traditions of information placement. Knowing these nuances will save you time. For example, cars VAG (Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda) is often found paper sticker, on which the paint code is indicated as a two-to-three-digit number in the lower right corner.
French cars.Renault, Peugeot) the plate is normally on the right pillar of the body (passenger side) or under the bonnet. The code often begins with a letter indicating the type of paint (S – solid, M – metallic), followed by numbers.
American automobiles (Ford, Chevrolet) may have the code in two places at once: on the rack and in the trunk. U General Motors The code is often listed in the service book on the first page along with the VIN code. If you are the owner of a rare or luxury brand, it is best to contact the dealer right away, as coding systems can be confusing.
⚠️ Note: On cars with two-colored colors (body and roof of different colors) on the plate will be indicated two codes. They are usually separated by a line or labeled as "Upper" (top) and "Lower" (bottom).
Motorcycle and special equipment owners should also be careful. They may have markings on the frame under the seat or on the pendulum. The principle of search remains the same: we are looking for a factory tag with an alphanumeric set.
What to do if the code is not readable?
If the plate is damaged by corrosion or covered with paint, do not try to wipe it with solvents. Try to take a photo in different lighting – sometimes at an angle the numbers become visible. If that doesn’t work, then there is only computer selection.
Frequent errors in color determination
The most common mistake is confusion between the paint code and the interior code. There is a lot of information on the factory plates, and an inexperienced person can choose the code of the upholstery of the cabin or plastic. Always check the legend of the sign, if any, or look for the word "Paint."
The second mistake is to ignore burnout. If you paint a scratch on the roof according to factory code, and the rest of the car faded in 5 years, the color transition will be visible to the naked eye. In such cases, it is necessary slurry (color transition) to adjacent elements.
The third mistake is buying paint for spilling without checking. Even if you know the code, you buy the finished mixture. But in different banks of the same manufacturer, the shade can "walk". Always demand coloring and comparison in daylight.
☑️ Pre-purchase check
It is also worth mentioning the risk of buying paint online by code. Without professional equipment and colorist, you risk getting a color that will differ in saturation or pigment type (especially with mother-of-pearl).
Concluding recommendations and conclusions
Determining the paint code is the first and most important step in restoring the paintwork. Accuracy at this stage determines 90% of the success of the entire work. Do not be lazy to double-check data from several sources: plates, VIN code and visual inspection.
If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust this work to professionals. The cost of spectral analysis is incomparable with the cost of reworking a poorly painted part. Remember that modern paints are complex chemistry, where proportions and conditions of application are important.
Keep information about the color of your car in your phone notes or glove compartment. In case of emergency repairs, this will help you quickly find the right enamel in any city. Take care of your car and it will keep you happy for years to come.
The factory code is just the basis. For the ideal result on age cars, computer adjustment of the formula for the current state of the body is required.
Can you pick up paint without a code, just by name?
No, that's impossible. Color names like Midnight Blue are marketing names that can match dozens of different chemical formulas depending on the year and plant. What you need is a digital code.
How much does a computer-generated paint selection cost?
The cost varies from 500 to 2000 rubles depending on the region and the complexity of the color. Conventional solids are cheaper, complex three-layer pearl requires more expensive equipment and work.
Why is the paint chosen by the code different from the body?
Factory paint eventually fades under ultraviolet light, oxidizes and changes shade. The new paint code will have the original "fresh" color, which against the background of the burnt body will look brighter or darker.
Where can I find the paint code if the plate is lost?
If there is no sign, the only reliable way is to select a computer colorist or search the databases by VIN code through an official dealer. Visually, it is impossible to identify the code.
Does the type of paint (acrylic, metallic) affect the code?
Yes, the paint code already includes information about the type of pigment. The same color in the "solid" and "metallic" variant will have completely different codes in the manufacturer's catalog.