Handling the edge of fabric is a fundamental step in sewing any thing, be it bedding, clothing or interior items. Often beginner seamstresses face a dilemma: whether to buy expensive overlayIf you need it only for occasional filing, or you can do with the available equipment. Fortunately, modern sewing equipment allows you to perform high-quality finishing operations using only a straight line or shuttle machine.
Understanding that, How to overwrite a fabric on a typewriter without an overlockIt offers great opportunities for saving budget and work space. You do not have to allocate a separate table for bulky equipment, and the skills to work with ordinary equipment. seam It's going to get much deeper. The main thing is to properly adjust the tension of the thread and choose the right foot.
In this article, we will discuss all available methods, from simple zigzags to flat seam imitation. You will learn to prevent the shedding of slices even on the most bulky materials, such as: silk or flax. Let’s take a look at the tools and settings that will be required to get started.
Sewing machine preparation and needle selection
The first step before starting work is to properly prepare your equipment. The quality of the marking directly depends on the condition of the needle and the selected thread. For imitation of overwork seams are best suited needle-stick number from 75 to 90, depending on the density of the tissue.
It is important to install a special foot, which often comes complete with the machine. It could be called a foot for tailoring or N. It is the presence of a special limiter (plate) on the sole of the foot that allows the fabric to form the correct roller on the edge.
☑️ Checking the readiness of the machine
The tension of the upper thread often requires adjustment. If you are using a standard zigzagThe tension can be left average, but for more complex decorative lines it sometimes has to be loosened. Check the tension balance on the patch before proceeding to the main product.
⚠️ Warning: Never pull the cloth with your hands while the machine is running with the needle down. This can lead to needle breakage and injury to the fingers, as the mechanism moves at high speed.
The edge treatment with Zigzag seam
The easiest and most accessible way, How to overwrite a fabric on a typewriter without an overlockThis is the use of the usual seam zigzag. This method has been known for more than a hundred years and does not lose its relevance due to its simplicity and reliability. It is suitable for most medium density knitted and woven fabrics.
To perform the operation, set the zigzag mode on the machine. The width of the stitch should vary within 4-6 mm, and the length - 1-2 mm. The key point: the right puncture of the needle should fall exactly on the edge of the tissue, and the left - go deep into the canvas for several millimeters.
To avoid twisting the edge and looking neater, lay along the cut a preliminary straight line at a distance of 3-4 mm from the edge, and then run a zigzag on top of it.
When working with bulk materials, such as Wool or loose cotton, you can use two-step processing. First, a rare zigzag is laid, then the edge is cut as close as possible to the threads, and a denser seam is launched on top. This ensures that the threads will not break out after washing.
- 🧵 Use polyester threads, as they are stronger than cotton threads and are better stretched along with the fabric.
- ✂️ Always keep the scissors ready to trim the strands of the ligaments between the stitches if they appear.
- 📏 Lead the fabric evenly, without stretching it, so that the edge does not go “wave”.
Imitation of overwork seam with special lines
Many modern household cars, even budget segment, are equipped with a set of decorative lines. Among them are often found those designed to simulate work. overhead. On the control panel, they can be indicated by an icon resembling a loop seam, or a letter code, for example, Overlock.
Such lines are a combination of zigzag and straight stitches. The machine mechanism makes several punctures at one point, forming a dense roller, and then moves to the next section. This creates an effect very close to the industrial processing of the edge.
What is the difference between a swipe line and a zigzag?
The overlay stitch on a conventional machine is usually wider and has a more complex puncture structure, which better prevents slacking, but requires slower tissue progression.
To work with such modes, it is critical to use the right foot. If in the instructions for your model sewing-machine a special foot for overlay lines is indicated, be sure to use it. It has a guide pin that prevents the edge of the fabric from going to the side, providing the perfect smoothness of the seam.
The speed of rotation of the flywheel during the performance of these operations should be reduced. Give the machine time to form each complex stitch. If you sew too quickly, the needle may not hit the desired point, and the seam will turn torn or miss the edge of the fabric.
Processing of knitwear and elastic fabrics
Working with knitwear requires a special approach, since the usual straight seam will break when stretched. Here comes the elastic help. zigzag Or special stretching lines. The main task is to maintain the extensibility of the seam, equal to the extensibility of the canvas itself.
When setting up the machine, pay attention to the length of the stitch. For knitwear, it should be slightly larger than for dense tissues, usually about 2.5-3 mm. The width of the zigzag is selected experimentally, but most often is 3-4 mm. It is important to use a needle with a rounded tip (type) Jersey or Stretch), which extends the fibres rather than piercing them.
| tissue | Needle type | Zigzag width (mm) | Stitch length (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Thin knitwear | 75 Stretch | 2.5 - 3.0 | 2.0 - 2.5 |
| Tight footer | 90 Universal | 4.0 - 5.0 | 2.5 - 3.0 |
| Biflex/Lycra | 75 Stretch | 1.5 - 2.0 | 2.0 - 2.5 |
| Knitted canvas | 90 Ballpoint | 3.0 - 4.0 | 3.0 |
If your car is maintaining the mode Stretch Or has a separate lever for working with elastic materials, activate it. This will change the movement of the reiki and allow the tissue to move more evenly, without deforming the edge.
Use of oblique baking for edging
When you need not only to prevent the swelling, but also to decorate the edge, help comes. squirt. This method is often used in natural fabric products, where the overlay seam may look rough or be too stiff for the product's face.
There are two main methods of processing: open and closed. In the first case, the baking is sewn to the inside, the edge is cut, then the baking is bent over to the front side and is spent. In the second case, a tissue slice is hidden inside a folded in half braid. Both methods are easily performed on a conventional machine.
To facilitate the process, you can purchase a leg for sewing baking or use a foot for lightning, if the edge of the product is straight. When working with curved lines, for example, the neck, the baking should be slightly planted or, conversely, stretched depending on the bulge of the shape.
⚠️ Note: When buying a ready-made beak, pay attention to its composition. Synthetic baking on cotton fabric can behave unpredictable when washing and drying, causing deformation of the edge.
This method takes longer than a simple zigzag marking, but the result looks much more professional. In addition, the woven edge is more durable and less prone to abrasion when wearing.
French seam and other internal processing
For thin and transparent fabrics, such as chiffon, organza or thin silkOrdinary marking methods may look unaesthetic. In such cases, the masters turn to the technique of the French seam. This is a way in which a tissue slice is completely hidden inside the seam, and no additional marking is required.
The technology is simple, but requires precision. First, the parts are folded with the side to each other and are grinded with a narrow seam (3-4 mm). Then the allowances are cut as close as possible to the line, the product is turned by the front sides inside and is rubbed again, already with a wider seam, capturing the previous cut.
French seam is ideal for transparent fabrics, as it completely hides threads and cuts, making the product neat on both sides.
The alternative could be suture or treating a cut with a braided "zigzag" (if it is available on sale), which is glued or sewn to the edge. However, the French seam remains the king of cleanness machining for lightweight materials without the use of overlock.
Remember that for such delicate operations, the sharpness of the needle and the purity of the reiki teeth are critical. Any lead can ruin expensive fabric. Regularly clean the shuttle compartment from dust and pile.
Can I use adhesives instead of threads?
The use of special textile adhesives is possible for temporary fixation or processing of sections that will not be subjected to load. However, for clothing this is not recommended, as the glue can make the edge stiff (oak) and lose properties after washing.
Do I need to lubricate the fabric before marking?
No, you don't have to lubricate the fabric. However, for very loose fabrics, professionals sometimes use special spray seals for cuts that are applied before opening or tailoring so that the threads do not get out in the process of work.
Why does the bottom thread loop when marking?
Looping of the lower thread most often indicates improper tension of the upper thread (too weak) or that the thread in the spoole is inserted incorrectly. Check if the thread is properly tucked into the shuttle mechanism.
Which paw is better for an overlay line?
It is best to use a specialized foot with a guide limiter (often labeled as G or has a side rest). It helps to lead the edge of the fabric strictly at one distance from the needle, which is critical for the quality of the overlock imitation.