For many motorists, a garage becomes not just a place to sleep a car, but a full-fledged workshop or warehouse where tools and spare parts are stored. That is why the question how to cover walls in a garage, confronts the owner almost immediately after purchasing or constructing a building. Properly selected material not only improves the appearance of the room, but also protects the building structure from destruction, retains heat and creates comfortable working conditions.
The choice of finishing technology directly depends on what the walls are built from: it can be brick, concrete blocks, metal or sandwich panels. Internal lining It must not only be aesthetically pleasing, but also have high mechanical strength and resistance to temperature and humidity changes. In this article, we will analyze all the popular options, compare their cost and durability, and also provide step-by-step instructions for self-installation.
Requirements for materials for garage finishing
Before you go to a hardware store to purchase materials, you need to clearly understand the specific operating conditions of the garage space. The walls here are exposed to aggressive influences: exhaust gases, temperature changes, possible humidity and the risk of mechanical damage from tools or the car itself. Sheathing material must withstand these loads without losing its properties.
The most important parameter is fire safety. Flammable liquids such as gasoline, oils and solvents are often stored in the garage. Therefore, the use of flammable materials requires special care and additional treatment with fire retardants. Fireproof options, such as metal or mineral plaster, in this regard, outperform plastic or untreated wood.
It is also worth considering the hygroscopicity of the selected solutions. If the garage is not heated or the ventilation is poor, condensation may form on the walls. Materials that absorb moisture will quickly become unusable and become covered with mold or rust. For unheated garages, it is critical to choose materials with zero water absorption or use vapor barrier membranes.
- 🛡️ Durability and impact resistance - the ability to withstand accidental impacts from a bumper or tool.
- 🔥 Fire resistance - minimal flammability and no release of toxic substances when heated.
- 💧 Moisture resistance - resistance to condensation, washing and humidity changes.
- 🌡️ Thermal resistance - maintaining the structure at temperatures from -30 to +40 degrees Celsius.
Review of popular wall materials
The building materials market offers a wide range of solutions, and the choice depends on the budget and purpose of using the premises. One of the most common options remains lining. This is a classic that looks aesthetically pleasing and environmentally friendly. However wooden lining requires mandatory impregnation with antiseptics and fire retardants, otherwise it will quickly rot or cause a fire.
A more modern and practical solution for many is corrugated sheet or wall profiled sheet. This is a metal sheet with stiffening ribs, covered with a protective polymer layer. It does not burn, is not afraid of water, is easy to clean and is relatively inexpensive. The downside is its “coldness” - without additional insulation, the garage will be cool, and condensation will form abundantly on the metal.
Plastic panels (PVC) are often chosen due to their low cost and ease of installation. They are really easy to install and are not afraid of moisture, but their mechanical strength leaves much to be desired. It is very easy to break through such a panel with the angle of a bicycle or a careless movement. OSB boards (oriented strand) are also popular: they are durable, but require finishing (painting or varnishing) to protect them from moisture.
Hidden disadvantages of popular lining
Wooden lining, despite its beauty, is an ideal habitat for rodents and insects. If there is no mesh or special treatment between the wall and the sheathing, you risk getting uninvited guests who will chew through the wiring and insulation.
Comparative table of material characteristics
To make the decision easier, let's summarize the main parameters of popular materials into a single table. This will help you quickly evaluate the pros and cons of each option in the context of your goals and capabilities.
| Material | Fire safety | Moisture resistance | Difficulty of installation | Approximate price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lining (wood) | Low (requires impregnation) | Medium (rots) | Average | High |
| Corrugated sheet | High (off) | High | Low | Average |
| PVC Panels | Low (melts) | High | Very low | Low |
| OSB Plates | Medium (requires protection) | Low (swells) | Average | Average |
| Plaster | High | High | High (labor-intensive) | Low/Medium |
As can be seen from the table, there is no ideal material. Corrugated sheet wins in terms of a combination of factors for the technical room, but loses in aesthetics and thermal insulation. Plaster is a timeless option, but it requires high skill and a lot of drying time.
For an unheated garage, the best choice in terms of price/quality/durability ratio is a combination of insulation (mineral wool or penoplex) and metal profiled sheet or moisture-resistant drywall.
Preparing walls and installing sheathing
Regardless of the type of sheathing chosen, the process almost always begins with preparing the base and installing the frame (sheathing). Direct installation on curved walls is only possible for plaster, but even there, priming and leveling are required. For ventilated facades (lining, panels, corrugated sheets) frame required.
First, the walls must be cleaned of dust, dirt and loose elements. If there are cracks, they should be repaired with repair mortar. Then a layer is applied deep penetration, which will strengthen the surface and prevent dusting. If insulation is planned, at this stage you can attach a vapor barrier film.
The sheathing can be made from wooden blocks or metal profiles. For a garage, metal is preferable: it does not rot, rodents do not like it, and it does not change its geometry due to changes in humidity. The pitch of the racks is usually 50-60 cm, which corresponds to the standard width of insulation and sheet materials. Fastening to the wall is carried out with dowel nails or anchors.
☑️ Preparation for installation of the sheathing
⚠️ Attention: When using wooden beams for sheathing, be sure to treat it with a fire-retardant compound. In a garage environment where sparking or storage of fuel and lubricants is possible, this is a critical safety measure.
Sheathing technology with various materials
Let's consider the nuances of installation for different types of coatings. If you have chosen clapboard, then it is best to attach it to clamps - special hidden fasteners that do not spoil the appearance of the product and allow the wood to “breathe” (expand and contract). The first plank is set strictly according to the level, since the evenness of the entire wall depends on it. Subsequent boards are inserted into the groove of the previous one and fixed.
Installation corrugated sheets or sheet metal is made with self-tapping screws with a press washer or roofing self-tapping screws with a rubber washer. It is important not to overtighten the fasteners so as not to deform the metal around the hole. The sheets are laid overlapping on one wave, which ensures the tightness of the joints. It is better to cut metal with metal scissors or a jigsaw, but not with a grinder, so as not to burn out the zinc layer and polymer coating.
PVC panels are installed similarly to lining, but require greater care. Plastic is fragile in the cold, so in winter it is not recommended to install it inside a cold garage - the material may crack during fastening. For fixation, use either clamps or a construction stapler (for the internal flange of the profile).
When installing corrugated sheets, use special rubber washers under the screw head. This will prevent moisture from entering the fastener hole and protect the wall from future corrosion.
Insulation and finishing
Often wall cladding in a garage is combined with insulation. Thermal insulation material is placed in the space between the sheathing profiles. Best suited for these purposes mineral wool (it does not burn) or extruded polystyrene foam (is not afraid of moisture). Polystyrene foam can be used, but with caution due to its flammability and love of rodents.
If plasterboard is chosen as the finish, then after installing the sheets it is necessary to putty the joints and screw heads. For a garage, it is better to use moisture-resistant drywall (GKLV) of green color. After puttying, the walls can be painted with washable paint, preferably in light colors to make the room brighter.
The final stage is always the installation of skirting boards and corner elements that hide joints and irregularities. This gives the garage a neat, finished look. Don't forget to check the operation of sockets and switches if they were dismantled or moved during the work.
⚠️ Attention: Never leave insulation (especially mineral wool) exposed without a vapor barrier or finishing sheathing. Microfibers can become airborne and irritate the respiratory tract, and the material itself will absorb moisture from the air.
Common mistakes when decorating a garage
Many owners, trying to save time and money, make common mistakes that then have to be corrected. One of the most common is ignoring ventilation. When sewing walls “tightly”, people forget that the car and materials need air exchange. Absence products or ventilation grilles leads to dampness and corrosion of the car body.
Another mistake is using the wrong materials. For example, installing regular drywall in an unheated garage. In winter, it will become saturated with moisture, become deformed and become moldy. They also often save on fasteners by using rusting nails or screws instead of galvanized ones, which leads to the appearance of rusty streaks on the walls after a couple of years.
Don't forget about the fire safety of electrical wiring. If you hide wiring behind sheathing, it should be installed in non-flammable corrugated pipes. Twists of wires must be avoided; use only terminal strips. Security In the garage, aesthetics are more important.
The main mistake is sealing the room without organizing forced or natural ventilation. The garage must “breathe”, otherwise condensation will destroy both the finish and the car.
Do I need to remove old plaster before covering?
If the old plaster holds tightly, does not have deep cracks and does not peel off in layers, it is not necessary to completely remove it. It is enough to clean the weak spots, prime the surface and install the sheathing on top. However, if brickwork with efflorescence or mold is hidden under the plaster, it is better to clean the wall to the base and treat it with an antiseptic.
What is better to fasten the corrugated sheet: with self-tapping screws or rivets?
For inside garages, it is better to use self-tapping screws with a press washer. They provide a tighter clamp and are easier to dismantle if repairs are necessary. Rivets require a special tool (rivet gun) and create a permanent connection, which is not always convenient. In addition, moisture penetrates through the rivet hole more easily if no sealant is used.
Is it possible to line a garage with plywood?
You can use plywood, but only moisture-resistant ones (FK or FSF brands). Regular plywood will quickly delaminate in garage humidity. FSF is more durable and moisture-resistant, but contains phenol-formaldehyde resins, and therefore requires mandatory painting or varnishing for safety. In terms of fire hazard, it is inferior to metal and plaster.
What thickness of insulation should I choose for garage walls?
For the central regions of Russia, the optimal insulation thickness for garage walls is considered to be 50-100 mm. If the garage is attached to the house or you plan to work there often in winter, it is better to take 100 mm (or two layers of 50 mm in a cross direction). For simply “storing” the car in unheated mode, 50 mm is enough to smooth out temperature changes.
Do you need a vapor barrier when using polystyrene foam?
Polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) itself practically does not allow vapor to pass through, so a separate layer of vapor barrier is not as critical for it as for mineral wool. However, it is advisable to foam the joints between sheets of foam plastic with polyurethane foam to eliminate cold bridges and air circulation behind the skin. For mineral wool, vapor barrier is required.