Plywood sheets remain one of the most popular materials for interior decoration of premises due to their strength and environmental friendliness. Natural veneer.compressed under high pressure, creates a reliable surface that can withstand mechanical loads better than drywall.
Many owners of country houses and apartments choose this option when they seek to create a cozy interior with a warm texture of wood.
The installation process requires careful preparation of the base and compliance with technological gaps to avoid deformation of the sheets in the future.
In this article, we will discuss in detail all the stages of work: from choosing the right grade of plywood to the final painting or varnishing of the surface.
You will learn how to properly assemble the crate, what tools you will need and how to avoid the typical mistakes made by beginners when repairing yourself.
Selection of suitable materials and tools
The first step in any construction is a competent selection of consumables, since the durability of the entire structure depends on it.
For internal work is most often used FC (moisture-resistant) or FCM (increased moisture resistance), as they do not emit toxic phenols, unlike the brand FSFintended for external use.
The optimal thickness of the sheet for the walls is 10-12 mm, which provides sufficient rigidity and does not take up much useful space.
In addition to the sheets themselves, you will need to collect a certain set of tools, without which high-quality installation is impossible.
For working with wood is ideal. jigsaw or circular saw, allowing you to make smooth cuts without chipping.
Also, be sure to prepare a punch for drilling holes in concrete or brick, a screwdriver with a set of bits and a building level for checking verticals.
- 🛠️ Roulette and pencil for accurate marking of cutting lines and fasteners.
- 🔨 Hammer and nails (or screws on wood) for fixing elements.
- 📏 A rule or long rack to check the plane of the wall.
- 🧤 Personal protective equipment: glasses, respirator and gloves.
⚠️ Note: When buying plywood, be sure to check the certificate of conformity to make sure that there are no formaldehyde resins of emission class above E1.
Surface quality also plays a role: if you plan to have a transparent lacquer coating, choose grade I or II, where the number of knots is minimal.
For hidden rooms or under painting, cheaper varieties with defects that are easily masked with putty will suit.
Surface preparation and material calculation
Before starting the installation, it is necessary to carefully prepare the walls, removing old wallpaper, peeling plaster and dust.
Perfectly flat base is required only if you plan to glue plywood directly, but more often the frame method is used, hiding irregularities.
Be sure to treat the surface antisepticTo prevent mold and fungi from appearing in the space between the wall and the cladding.
The amount of material is calculated based on the area of the walls, but you should add 10-15% for trimming and possible errors.
The standard size of a plywood sheet is 1525×1525 mm or 1220×2440 mm, and it is important to plan the cutting ahead to minimize waste.
If the room has windows and doors, their area is usually not subtracted from the total volume of material purchased, as pruning can be useful for complex areas.
For the frame method, the calculation of the number of bars or metal profile will be required.
The crate step is usually 400-600 mm, which corresponds to the standard width of the sheets and provides a rigid fixation.
Do not forget to put in the estimate of insulation or sound insulation, if you plan to improve the thermal physical properties of the room.
Installation of crate (frame)
Assembly of the supporting frame is the foundation of the entire finishing design, so negligence and haste are unacceptable here.
Wooden bars with a cross section of 40×40 mm or 50×50 mm are attached to the wall vertically with a step multiple of the width of the plywood sheet.
Before installation, the wood must be treated with a flame-retardant composition to improve fire safety and the service life of the structure.
☑️ Frame assembly
Mounting of bars is carried out with the help of dowels-nails, the pitch of which depends on the density of the main wall material.
It's important to use lining or wedges in the places of recesses to bring the entire plane of the crate to one level.
Verticality check is carried out by plumbing or a long building level after installation of each element.
| Type of wall material | Recommended fastener | Step of attachment (mm) | Diameter of the dowel |
|---|---|---|---|
| concrete | Dowel-nail metal | 500-600 | 6-8 mm |
| bricks | Plastic nail dome | 400-500 | 6 mm |
| gas block | Special dowel for voids | 300-400 | 8-10 mm |
| Tree. | Wood-throwing screws | 400-500 | - |
If you plan to lay the insulation, the distance between the bars should exactly correspond to the width of the mats of mineral wool.
This will avoid gaps through which heat can escape, and will ensure a tight fit of insulation.
Technology of fastening of plywood sheets
Installation of sheets usually begins from the corner of the room, moving horizontal or vertical rows.
Plywood sheets are screwed to the bars of the crate with screws, the hats of which should be slightly recessed in the material.
For this, it is convenient to use a bit with a zenkovka or pre-drill holes with a drill of a smaller diameter.
Corner nuances
In the corners of the room, plywood sheets should not rest tightly on adjacent walls. Leave a gap of 5-10 mm to compensate for the temperature expansion and shrinkage of the building to avoid bloating the surface.
It's very important to leave. deformation between the sheets (2-3 mm) and around the perimeter of the room (10 mm).
Wood is a living material that reacts to changes in humidity and temperature by expanding and contracting.
The absence of compensatory seams will lead to the fact that the sheets will rest against each other and will bow, spoiling the appearance of the finish.
- 📐 Mark the fastener points in advance so that they fall exactly into the center of the crate bars.
- 🔩 Use screws at least 25-30 mm long for reliable fixation.
- 🪵 Fascists at the joints of sheets can be removed with rubank for subsequent putty stitches.
⚠️ Warning: Do not twist screws too close to the edge of the sheet (less than 10 mm), otherwise the plywood may split.
If the sheets are too heavy to lift on your own, use wooden supports or ask for an assistant.
Proper positioning of the first sheet sets the geometry of the entire subsequent cladding, so do not be lazy to double-check the level.
Sewing and finishing
After the installation is completed, the stage of preparing the surface for decorative coating begins, which requires accuracy.
All screw hats and joints between sheets must be splashed with a special composition for wood or universal acrylic putty.
To prevent cracks in the seams, it is recommended to use serpent-stickwhich is placed in the layer of the putty.
After drying the putty, the surface is grinded with sandpaper with a grain of 120-180 to obtain perfect smoothness.
If the plywood has a pronounced pattern and a transparent coating is planned, grinding is carried out very carefully so as not to damage the upper layer of the veneer.
In the case of painting, more abrasive materials can be used to level out small defects.
For the perfect color of the plywood ends, paint them with a morilla or a special edge tape before installation, as a regular dye may not cover the layered structure of the cut.
Finishing is chosen depending on the purpose of the room: for dry rooms, varnish or wax is suitable, for wet ones - moisture-resistant enamel.
Apply paints better in several thin layers, waiting for the complete drying of each previous.
This will allow you to get a uniform color and protect the material from moisture and mechanical damage.
Frequent mistakes and professional advice
Even with the instructions, beginners often make mistakes that can negate all efforts and expended funds.
One of the most common problems is ignoring the acclimatization of the material: plywood must be kept indoors for at least 48 hours before work begins.
This is necessary in order to ensure that the humidity and temperature of the sheets are equal to the conditions in the room, which will prevent deformation after installation.
The main secret of success is not to save on fasteners and strictly observe technological gaps, otherwise the rework will cost more than the initial repair.
It is also common to use poor-quality glue in the combined method of fastening, which leads to peeling of the sheets.
The glue should be applied evenly over the entire surface of the bars or the back of the leaf, avoiding the formation of voids.
Do not forget about ventilation: if you sew the walls tightly, make sure that the room provides normal air circulation.
Can you put plywood directly on concrete without a crate?
Theoretically, it is possible if the walls are perfectly smooth and dry. However, this method does not allow you to lay communications or insulation, and also requires the use of special glue and dowel nails. The frame method is preferable for most tasks.
Which is the best for the inside of the house?
For residential premises, water-based acrylic varnishes are best suited. They do not have a sharp smell, dry quickly and are safe for health, unlike alkyd compounds.
Do I need to lay the plywood before painting?
Yes, a primer is mandatory. It reduces the absorption of wood, prevents the lifting of the pile and provides adhesion of the finishing coating, which saves paint and improves the result.