The arches of the car are a zone of constant aggressive influence of the external environment, which requires special attention of the owner. It is here that moisture, salt and reagents accumulate, and the stones flying from under the wheels create ideal conditions for the rapid development of corrosion. Ignoring the state of the arches leads to through rust, expensive body repairs and loss of the commodity value of the machine.
Professional processing allows not only to prevent the destruction of metal, but also significantly reduce the noise level in the cabin. Modern materials such as floppy-plate and polymer-based mastics provide long-lasting protection comparable to the installation of plastic lockers. However, the key to success is not so much the choice of chemistry as the careful preparation of the surface before application.
In this article, we will discuss the full cycle of work: from dismantling wheels and cleaning to final drying. You will learn how bitumen compositions differ from rubber, why you can not apply protection on wet metal and what mistakes beginners most often make when working independently.
Selection of material for protection of arches: bitumen, rubber or liquid underplates
The automotive chemicals market offers a wide range of solutions, and choosing the right product determines the durability of protection. Traditional bitumen They remain popular due to their low price, but they are prone to drying and cracking in the cold. More modern compositions based on rubber Polyurethanes or polyurethanes retain elasticity at low temperatures, which is critical for areas exposed to vibration and gravel impacts.
A special place is occupied by the so-called liquid underwings - compositions that, after drying, form a durable rubber-like film. They often contain reinforcing fibers that increase the mechanical strength of the coating. Anti-corrosion properties Such materials are enhanced by rust inhibitors that penetrate into the microcracks of the metal and stop oxidative processes.
When choosing a material, it is important to take into account the climatic conditions of operation. For regions with severe winters and a large number of reagents, two-component formulations that require mixing the base and hardener are better suited. They create a monolithic layer that is almost impossible to damage without the use of a special tool.
- 🛡️ Bituminous rubber mastics: A classic solution with good adhesion, but requiring regular updates.
- 🧪 Polymeric liquid lifts: high elasticity, resistance to shocks and excellent noise insulation.
- 🔬 Zinc-containing soils: provide active electrochemical protection of the metal before applying the main layer.
- 🌡️ Heat-resistant compounds: Specially designed for areas near the exhaust system, where overheating is possible.
⚠️ Warning: Never use pure bitumen or tar without additives to process arches. This material hardens over time, bursts and begins to pass moisture, creating the effect of a “compress” under which the metal rots even faster.
The cost of professional formulations may seem high, but it is not comparable to the cost of digesting sills and spars. High-quality material applied by technology, serves at least 5-7 years, fully recouping investments in the preservation of the body.
Tools and workplace preparation required
Quality processing is impossible without proper surface preparation and the availability of a specialized tool. The main device is compressor with an operating pressure of at least 4-6 atmospheres, which will ensure the necessary spraying of viscous compositions. A special anticorical pistol, often called an “antigravium”, is used to protect the spray torch.
Before starting work, it is necessary to organize access to wheel niches. This will require a jack, reliable stands for the body and a balloon key. If you plan to clean the hidden cavities, you may need to pneumatic drill with wire brushes or sandblaster to remove old corrosion to pure metal.
Don’t forget about personal protective equipment. Solvent vapors and fine dust from rust are dangerous to health, so work should be carried out in a respirator, protective glasses and gloves. The room should be well ventilated, but without drafts that can bring dust to the fresh coating.
☑️ Processing tools
The organization of the workspace affects the speed and quality of the process. The car should stand on a level ground to eliminate the risk of falling from the stands. Prepare all materials in advance, as some two-component formulations have a limited lifespan after mixing.
Technology of surface preparation for protection
Surface preparation is the stage where 80% of the success of the entire operation is laid. Even the most expensive material will not be kept on a greasy, wet or loose surface. The first step is always the sink High pressure arches, preferably using active foam that will lift all dirt from the hidden cavities.
After washing, the surface must be thoroughly dried. Moisture is the main enemy of anticorrosion treatment. To speed up the process, you can use a building hair dryer or compressed air. Pay special attention to hidden pockets and places of attachment of the underwings, where water stagnates most often.
Then comes the mechanical cleaning. All rust foci should be removed to pure metal. If the corrosion is superficial, it is enough to treat the area. A rust converter that will turn iron oxides into stable compounds. However, in the presence of through holes, welding repairs will be required before the start of anticorrosion work.
Use paint tape and newspapers to close brake calipers and discs. The hit of the bitumen composition on the brakes can cause jamming of the pads and an emergency situation on the road.
The final stage of preparation is degreasing. Use special car degreases or white spirits, rubbing the surface with clean rags. After that, touch the metal with your hands in gloves is no longer possible, since skin fat will worsen adhesion.
| Preparation phase | Tool/Material | Purpose | Quality criterion |
|---|---|---|---|
| Washing | AED, active foam | Removal of dirt and salt | Absence of visible dirt |
| Suit | Fen, compressor | Moisture removal | Dry surface to the touch |
| Cleanup. | Brush, sandpaper. | Rust removal | Pure metal |
| Degreasing | Solvent, rags | Oil removal | Water doesn't come in drops. |
The process of applying anticorrosion coating
The application of protective composition requires accuracy and compliance with technology. If you use a two-component material, mix the base and hardener strictly in the proportions specified by the manufacturer and mix thoroughly. The finished mixture must be applied for a certain time before the polymerization reaction begins.
Spraying is carried out by smooth movements from a distance of 20-30 cm from the surface. It is important not to try to apply a thick layer at once: it is better to make two or three thin layers with intermediate drying. This will prevent material from draining and ensure uniform polymerization throughout the coating depth.
Pay special attention to the places of welded seams and joints of body elements. This is where corrosion most often begins. Liquid slats They must completely envelop these areas, creating a sealed film. For hard-to-reach places, you can use special extension nozzles for the gun.
After applying the first layer, let it dry according to the instructions (usually 15-30 minutes). The stickiness should disappear, but the layer should not yet completely harden. The second layer is applied perpendicularly to the first one to better overlap the pores and create a homogeneous structure.
⚠️ Warning: Do not apply anticores to the hot elements of the exhaust system. When heated, the composition can boil, smoke or even ignite, which will lead to damage to the coating and a fire hazard situation.
Drying, polymerization and finishing inspection
Full polymerization of modern materials takes from 24 to 48 hours at an air temperature not lower than +15 ° C. In the cold season, this process can be delayed, so it is recommended to dry the car in a warm garage or box. Accelerate drying with heat guns can be, but with caution, so as not to overheat the coating.
During the drying period, it is better not to operate the car. Getting dust, water or dirt on a sticky surface will spoil the appearance and can disrupt the integrity of the protective layer. If possible, leave the car alone for a day to ensure a guaranteed result.
After drying, conduct a visual inspection. The coating should be matte or semi-matted, homogeneous, without bloating and detachment. If defects (bubbles, inflows) are detected, they should be carefully cleaned and locally painted to exclude foci of corrosion.
Can I paint over anticores?
Yes, some types of liquid under-slings allow staining with acrylic or alkyd enamels after complete polymerization. However, be sure to do a compatibility test on an inconspicuous area, as aggressive solvents in the paint can dissolve the lower layer of protection.
Regular monitoring of the condition of the arches will prolong the life of the defense. Once a year, before the winter season, wash the arches and inspect the coating for chips. Small damage is easy to repair by applying a small amount of material with a brush or aerosol spray.
Common errors in self-processing
Self-processing of arches is often accompanied by errors that negate all efforts. One of the most common is the application of protection on a poorly cleaned surface. Dust, dirt residues or wet areas will cause the material to simply peel off along with the rust after a short time.
Another mistake is saving on materials. Cheap formulations often do not contain the necessary elastic additives and corrosion inhibitors. They quickly crack from vibration and temperature changes, opening the access of water and salt to the metal. High-quality anticor It costs money, but it serves as an investment in the durability of the body.
The wrong application technology also plays a role. Too thin a layer will not provide noise insulation and protection from shocks, and excessively thick can dry inside for a long time, remaining sticky, or flow under its own weight. Observance of the manufacturer’s instructions is the key to success.
The main secret of durable protection is not the brand of the material, but 90% of the time spent on high-quality surface preparation before application.
Ignoring hidden cavities is another critical point. By treating only the visible part of the arch, you leave the inner pockets unprotected, where corrosion will develop unnoticed until external signs of destruction appear.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
How often do I need to update the arch protection?
High-quality liquid underwings last 5-7 years. Bitumen mastics require inspection every 2 years and possible updates. Regular washing of arches in winter extends the service life of the coating.
Do I need to remove plastic lockers before processing?
Yes, I will. Processing on top of lockers is meaningless, since moisture accumulates under them. Lockers need to be removed, washed the niche, treated with anticor, let dry and install lockers back.
Can I apply anticores to rust?
You can apply, but only after processing the rust converter. Pure metal provides better adhesion, but if the rust is superficial, the transducer will stop the process and create a primer layer.
Is anticores harmful to rubber elements?
Modern compositions are neutral to rubber and plastic. However, aggressive solvents in cheap mastics can erode the rubber bands. Always check the composition for compatibility with the materials of your car.