When operating a car, the lower part of the body is constantly exposed to aggressive environmental influences. Rocks, gravel, road reagents and dirt fly directly into the sides of the car, leaving chips and scratches on them. A particularly vulnerable area is the lower edge of the door and the threshold itself, which are the first to take a hit. That is why many drivers think about additional protection, but often do not know what the name of this element is and how it differs from other parts of the body.

In everyday life, this detail is called differently: protective thresholds, linings, deflectors or moldings. But technically, it is a good idea to call it door-lace or protective sill cover. This detail performs not only a decorative function, hiding possible defects of the factory paint, but also serves as a serious barrier against corrosion. In this article, we will analyze all the nuances of the selection, materials and installation of this element.

Understanding what the door lining on the outside of the car is called will help you find the right part in the catalogs faster and correctly formulate the request to auto parts sellers. There are many variations of execution, from simple plastic to chrome steel, and each option has its own features of installation and operation.

Main types and classification of linings

All the protective elements for the bottom of the door can be divided into several categories depending on their purpose and design. The primary classification divides them into functional (protective) and decorative. Functional models are created from durable materials that can withstand the impact of gravel. Decoratives often serve as styling, giving the car a more sporty or luxury look.

The second important criterion is the method of fastening. Some models are designed to be installed on top of the factory part, while others completely replace the standard metal threshold. Overhead elements It is popular among owners of new cars who want to keep the original look of the body, but add protection. Replacement is relevant for existing damage or severe corrosion.

It is also worth mentioning specific species, such as retractable rapids, which are installed on SUVs and crossovers with high clearance. They automatically exit when the door is opened, making it easier to land, and buckle when moving, improving aerodynamics. This is already a complex mechanism that often comes bundled with the electronics of the car.

  • πŸš— Plastic linings The most budgetary and common option, easy to install.
  • ✨ Chrome elements They give a luxurious look, but require careful care of the coating.
  • πŸ›‘οΈ Aluminum profiles - are characterized by high strength and resistance to mechanical damage.
  • 🏎️ Carbon-fibre inserts Premium material for sports styling with minimal weight.

The choice of the specific type depends on your goals: whether you want to just decorate the car or look for reliable rust protection for years to come. It is important to consider the climatic conditions of your region, as some materials may behave differently in extreme temperatures.

⚠️ Note: When buying decorative linings, make sure they do not overlap the technological openings for draining water from doors. Blocking the drain will lead to rapid accumulation of moisture and corrosion inside the door card.

Materials of manufacture: pros and cons

The durability of protection depends on the material from which it is made. In the modern market of auto parts there are several main types of raw materials. Each of them has its own unique characteristics that affect the price, appearance and service life of the product.

The most popular material remains ABS plastic. This is an impact-resistant thermoplastic resin, which perfectly holds the shape and is not afraid of temperature changes. Plastic is often coated with a texture film under carbon or metal, which allows you to simulate more expensive materials. It is light, not subject to corrosion, but with a strong impact with a stone can crack, not deform.

Metal linings made of stainless steel or aluminum are considered more reliable in terms of protection from physical impacts. Stainless steel Often polished to a mirror shine or chrome. Such elements are almost impossible to damage during normal operation, but they have more weight and are prone to the appearance of micro scratches, which over time can make the surface matte.

πŸ“Š What material for overlays do you think is the best?
Plastic (cheap and easy)
Metal (strong and beautiful)
Carbon (stylish and expensive)
Rubber (maximum protection)

It is necessary to separate composite materials and carbon. It is a choice for those who are willing to pay for exclusivity and minimal weight. Carbon has fantastic tensile strength, but its price can be many times higher than the cost of plastic analogues. In addition, cheap carbon imitations (just a film with a pattern) quickly fade in the sun and lose sight.

⚠️ Caution: Low-quality plastic becomes fragile in the cold. When installing such overlays in winter, the risk of their breakdown is high even with careful installation due to tension.

Functions and tasks of protective elements

The main task that the lining on the doorstep of the car outside solves is to protect the paint coating (LAC) from abrasive wear. Sand and small crumbs flying from under the wheels act like sandpaper, gradually erasing the paint to metal. So, chipping, the oxidation process begins, and the body starts to rust. The patch takes that hit.

The second important function is corrosion-proofing. Even if the lining does not cover the entire area of the threshold, it often covers the most vulnerable areas where moisture and dirt accumulate. This is especially true for cars with already existing corrosion foci: the installation of the lining allows the law to preserve the problem and stop its spread without complex welding.

Do not forget about the visual component. A well-chosen overlay can change the perception of the silhouette of the car. For example, black matte elements add sportiness and aggressiveness, while chrome inserts make the car visually more expensive and statusier. For some models, tuning thresholds are the only way to highlight your car in the flow.

Materials Resistance to impact Weight. Difficulty of installation
ABS plastic Medium Low. Low.
Nerzh. steel Tall. High-pitched Medium
aluminum Tall. Medium. Medium
carbon Very high. Low. Tall.

Thus, choosing protection, you solve a set of tasks at once: from preserving the value of the car during resale to improving its appearance. Ignoring this issue could lead to expensive body repairs in the future.

Comparison: factory and tuning thresholds

Many motorists face a choice: leave the standard thresholds and stick protection on them or completely replace them with tuning analogues. Factory rapids are usually made of thin metal and painted in body color. They are aesthetic, but extremely vulnerable. Any scratches on them are immediately striking, especially on dark cars.

Tuning options, often called alternative thresholdsThey can be wider, have a different form of section and integrated leg areas. This is especially useful for owners of SUVs. However, the installation of such elements often requires more serious intervention in the design of the body, including drilling additional holes or modification of suspension points.

From an aerodynamic point of view, factory solutions are usually better thought out. Engineers of the automaker test the car in the aerotube, and any protruding elements can increase fuel consumption and noise level in the cabin at high speeds. Tuning pads, especially massive ones, can disrupt airflows, creating a whistle.

Impact on clearance

Installation of overhead thresholds practically does not affect geometric permeability, since they are attached on top of existing elements. However, replacing the thresholds with wider models can reduce ground clearance by 1-2 cm, which is worth considering when traveling on off-road.

If your priority is maximum protection and you are ready to sacrifice factory aerodynamics, then tuning will be a great choice. If you appreciate the factory balance of characteristics, it is better to limit yourself to thin protective profiles.

Instructions for installation with your own hands

Installation of linings on the thresholds is a procedure that can be performed independently in garage conditions. It does not require specialized equipment, but it needs accuracy and cleanliness. Errors at the stage of surface preparation can lead to the fact that after a month the part will simply fall off on the go.

The first step is always the degreasing. The thresholds must be thoroughly washed with auto shampoo, dried, and then wiped with antisilicone or alcohol. On the surface should not remain asphalt spots, wax from washing or dust. Only after that can you start fitting.

β˜‘οΈ Preparation for installation

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Most modern pads are attached to double-sided tape (often 3M) in combination with plastic fixtures or sealant. If the fixers are used, they must be carefully inserted into the regular holes. Then a primer is applied to the inner surface of the lining (if it comes in the kit) and a tape is glued.

Procedure:

1. Remove the scotch tape.

2. Combine the overlay at the installation site.

3. Press hard all the way down.

4. Warm up with a hair dryer (optional) to activate the glue.

5. Set it with paint tape for 24 hours.

It is important not to wet the car and not to expose it to loads during the day after installation, so that the adhesive layer gains maximum strength. It is also recommended to warm up the lining itself and the surface of the body with a building hair dryer before gluing, if the air temperature is below +15 Β° C.

⚠️ Note: Do not use "Moment" or other aggressive adhesives instead of double-sided tape. They can damage the factory paint during future dismantling, as well as destroy the structure of the plastic lining.

Care and maintenance of protective linings

Even the best protection needs attention. Plastic burns out and grays over time, chromium dims, and aluminum can oxidize. Regular care will prolong the life of these elements and keep their presentable appearance. Car washing should include cleaning the thresholds from accumulated dirt.

For plastic elements are excellent. polishing. They not only return a rich black color, but also create a protective layer that repels dust and water. Chromium parts should be polished with special pastes for chromium, removing oxides and a "web" of small scratches.

If you notice that moisture began to collect under the lining or bubbling appeared, you must immediately remove the element. This is a signal that the tightness is broken, and corrosion develops under the lining. In this case, you will need to clean the metal, treat the rust converter and re-install with a new layer of sealant.

πŸ’‘

Use a keratin sponge or soft brush to clean hard-to-reach areas under the linings so as not to scratch the LCP with abrasive dirt.

Regular check of the condition of the fasteners will also not be superfluous. Vibration when moving can weaken the fixtures, and the lining will begin to luft, making unpleasant sounds and rubbing the paint.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I put the slacks on the rusty threshold?

It's not recommended. The patch will create a sealed "pocket", where moisture will remain forever. Rust will continue to develop underneath at double the rate, and after a year you may find a through hole. First, you need to clean the rust, prime and paint the metal, and only then mount the protection.

Does the car affect the vehicle’s performance?

Thin overhead profiles have little to no effect on clearance. However, wide thresholds-steps for SUVs can reduce ground clearance by 2-4 cm. This should be taken into account when planning trips on serious off-road, where every centimeter is important.

How to remove an old pad without damaging the paint?

Use a fishing line or a special thread to cut old scotch, warming the joint with a building hairdryer. Remains of glue remove special solvents (antisilicone) or carefully blade at an angle, trying not to touch the varnish. Be careful with plastic clips – they can break when dismantled.

Is it true that the slacks make noise on the track?

Highly installed overlays that repeat the geometry of the body do not create additional noise. Problems can arise with cheap universal models that have gaps or protruding angles creating air vortexes. Proper installation and use of sealant minimize this risk.

Do I need to remove the thresholds for pressure washing?

You do not need to remove them, but caution should be exercised when washing with a kerkerker. Do not direct a jet of water under high pressure close to the edge of the lining, especially if it is held only on scotch. This can cause the glue to explode and water to get inside.