Towing hook: what is the correct name and which one to choose for your car

When it comes to transporting a faulty vehicle or trailer, the first thing that comes to mind is towing hook. But what is it called correctly? In colloquial speech, car owners use dozens of options: “towing hook,” “towbar,” “eye,” “towing eye,” or even “cable ring.” Such confusion in terms often leads to mistakes when purchasing equipment or contacting service.

In fact, each of these terms means different types of towing devices, which differ in design, purpose and method of fastening. For example, tow bar (from German Fahrzeugkopplung - "vehicle hitch") is a full-fledged towing device for trailers, and towing eye - temporary element for evacuation. In this article we will look at all the official names, standards (including GOST R 41.55-2005 and DIN 74054), and also give practical advice on selection and installation.

We will pay special attention critical errors when towingwhich can lead to cable breakage, body damage or even an accident. For example, using homemade hooks made of “garage” metal or attaching a cable to suspension elements instead of standard points is a direct threat to road safety.

Official names of towing hooks according to GOST and standards

Russian and international regulatory documents define precise terms for designating towing devices. Here are the key ones:

• 🔹 Towing hitch (TCU) - a general name for all types of hitches, including towbars. Adjustable GOST R 41.55-2005 (analogous to European ECE R55).
• 🔹 Towbar (from German. Fahrzeugkopplung) — removable or stationary device for towing trailers weighing up to 3.5 tons. Has a standard ball with a diameter of 50 mm (DIN 74057).
• 🔹 Towing eye - a metal loop or ring welded to the spar or frame. Designed for short-term towing (for example, tow trucks).
• 🔹 Tow hook - a general name for all types of hooks, including removable ones (for example, hook for the cable).
• 🔹 Towing eye - a removable element screwed into a standard threaded hole on the bumper (often found on Volkswagen, Skoda, Audi).

It is important to understand that A tow bar and a towing eye are not the same thing.. The tow bar is designed for long-term operation (for example, with a trailer), and the eye is for one-time evacuation. Using the eyelet to tow a trailer can lead to its deformation or breakage!

In European countries the standard applies DIN 74054, which classifies tow hooks by lifting capacity:

Class according to DIN 74054	Max. vertical load (kg)	Max. traction load (kg)	Typical Application
A50-1	50	1 500	Car trailers, bicycle carriers
A50-2	75	2 000	Trailers for boats, ATVs
A50-3	100	2 500	Heavy trailers, campers
H50	150	3 500	Commercial vehicles (eg. Ford Transit)

⚠️ Attention: Towing eyes on many modern vehicles (e.g. Toyota RAV4 or Hyundai Tucson) are designed for a load of no more than 2–3 tons. Exceeding this limit may result in damage to the body!

Types of tow hooks: which one is right for your car?

The choice of towing hook depends on type of vehicle, mass of the towed object and frequency of use. Let's look at the main types:

1. Towbar (tow hitch)

This main device for towing trailers. There are three types:

• 🔧 Flanged - bolted to the spar. Suitable for SUVs (for example, Nissan Patrol).
• 🔧 Removable - the ball can be removed when not needed (relevant for sedans type Skoda Octavia).
• 🔧 Universal - height adjustable, but requires welding during installation.

2. Towing eye (standard or optional)

Installed on front and rear bumpers for evacuation. It happens:

• 🔄 Removable - screwed into a threaded hole (for example, on Volkswagen Passat B6).
• 🔨 Stationary - welded to the frame (typical for pickups type Ford Ranger).

3. Towing hook

Used for temporary towing on a flexible or rigid coupling. Often comes complete with a cable. Popular models:

• 🔗 Hook with lock (for example, Bosch 1 987 250 001) - prevents spontaneous uncoupling.
• 🔗 Hook with thread - for fastening to the eyelet (suitable for UAZ Patriot).

4. Towing eye (for passenger cars)

Often hidden under a plastic cap on the bumper. Example: on Renault Duster The loop is located behind the right fog lamp. To access you need:

1. Open the plug with a screwdriver.
2. Screw the loop clockwise until it stops.

Where are the standard towing eyes on popular cars?

Many drivers do not know that their car is already equipped hidden towing points. Here's where to look for them on popular models:

Make and model	Eyelet location	Mounting type
Toyota Camry (XV70)	Under the front bumper (left and right)	Threaded loop (M12)
Volkswagen Golf (Mk7)	Behind the plastic plug on the right	Screw-in loop
Hyundai Solaris (HC)	Under the rear bumper (center)	Welded eye
Kia Sportage (QL)	Front - behind the left fog lamp, rear - under the bumper	Removable loop (key included)
Lada Vesta	Front - under the plastic trim, rear - under the bumper	Threaded bushing (M10)

On some vehicles (for example, Mercedes-Benz E-Class) the eyes are hidden under decorative panels. To find them you need:

1. Inspect the bumper for plastic plugs.
2. Check the operating manual (section "Towing").
3. Use a flashlight - the eyes are often located in recesses.

⚠️ Attention: On vehicles with plastic bumpers (for example, Nissan Qashqai) towing by the bumper is strictly prohibited! This will lead to cracks or detachment of fasteners. Always use standard eyes or tow bar.

How to tow a car correctly: step-by-step instructions

Even if you know the name of a tow hook, this does not guarantee safety on the road. Here step-by-step algorithm correct towing:

1. Choosing a cable or rigid hitch

For towing use:

• 🔗 Cable — flexible hitch (length 4–6 m). Suitable for passenger cars.
• 🔗 Rigid coupling — metal rod (length up to 2.5 m). Required for car with faulty brakes.

The cable must have:

• 🏷️ Marking indicating breaking load (for example, "5,000 kg").
• 🔍 Protective covers on hooks (prevent damage to paintwork).

2. Attaching the cable to the eye

Incorrect fastening is the main cause of cable breakage! Follow the rules:

• 🔄 Hook must rotate freely in the eyelet.
• 🔒 Use safety rope (if the main one breaks).
• 🚫 Do not attach the cable to suspension elements or exhaust system!

3. Speed and distance

By Traffic rules of the Russian Federation (clause 20.4):

• 🚗 Maximum speed - 50 km/h.
• 📏 Distance between cars — 4–6 meters (for cable).
• 🚦 Turn it on alarm on a towed vehicle.

Top 5 mistakes when towing: what are the consequences?

Even experienced drivers make mistakes that can lead to serious damage or an accident. Here are the most common:

1. Towing by bumper (not by the eyelet). Consequences:

   • 💥 Cracks on the bumper or side member.
   • 🚗 Removing the bumper fastenings (repair will cost 15-30 thousand rubles).

2. Using a low-quality cable (for example, from “Chinese” nylon). Risks:

   • 🔥 The cable breaks at speed (can damage the windshield of the car driving behind).
   • 🚨 Fine for violation Traffic rules (part 1 of article 12.5 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation) - up to 500 rub.

Towing a car with faulty brakes on a flexible hitch. The rules require rigid coupling!

Speeding (more than 50 km/h). This leads to:

• 🔥 Overheating of the automatic transmission (if you are towing a car with an automatic transmission).
• 🚗 Loss of control when the cable jerks.

• No safety rope. If the main cable breaks, the towed vehicle may become uncontrollable.

What happens if you tow a car with the ignition on?

Towing with the ignition on (but the engine off) may drain the battery and increase the load on the alternator. On some models (for example, BMW with the system EfficientDynamics) this can lead to errors in the on-board computer.

⚠️ Attention: Towing a vehicle with electric power steering (for example, Kia Rio) requires the ignition to be turned on! Otherwise, the steering wheel will be “oaky” and it will become almost impossible to drive the car.

How to choose a tow hook: 7 key parameters

When purchasing a towbar or towbar, pay attention to the following characteristics:

Parameter	Recommendations	Example for a passenger car
Load capacity	Must exceed the weight of the towed car/trailer by 30–50%	For Skoda Octavia (weight 1.3 t) - hook 2 t
Material	Steel with anti-corrosion coating (galvanized or powder painted)	Bosch or Thule (do not rust)
Mounting type	For a towbar - flanged or bolted; for eye - threaded (M10–M14)	On Toyota RAV4 - M12 thread
Certification	Must match GOST R 41.55-2005 or DIN 74054	Look for the label on the packaging
Cable/Hitch Length	4–6 m for cable; up to 2.5 m for rigid coupling	For the city, 4 m is optimal

When choosing tow bar also consider:

• 🔧 Body type: for SUVs (for example, Mitsubishi Pajero) you need a towbar with reinforced fastening.
• 🔧 Availability of parking sensors: Some towbars block radar (requires model with cutout).
• 🔧 Electrics: The trailer will require a 7 or 13 pin outlet.

💡

Never buy tow hooks from "no-name" brands! Cheap products made from low-quality steel can burst under load, which will lead to an accident.

Installing a tow hook: can you do it yourself?

Installation tow bar or eyelets requires strict adherence to technology. Let's consider both options:

1. Installation of the towbar

For most cars (eg Ford Focus or Renault Duster) the process includes:

1. Removing the bumper and crankcase protection.
2. Attaching the towbar to the side members through standard holes.
3. Electrical connection (trailer socket).
4. Geometry check: the ball must be at height 350–420 mm from the ground.

Difficulties:

• 🔧 On some cars (for example, Volvo XC60) required drilling of side members.
• 🔌 Electrical connection may require matching block (if the car has a multiplex network).

2. Installation of the towing eye

If your car is not equipped with a standard eye, you can install it yourself:

1. Buy an eyelet with certificate (for example, HEKO or Westfalia).
2. Find standard mounting points (usually they are marked on the spar).
3. Weld the eye argon welding (not electrode!).
4. Paint the weld area anticorrosive (for example, Movi).

⚠️ Attention: Self-installation of eyelets on vehicles with aluminum subframe (for example, Audi A4) is strictly prohibited! This may disrupt the geometry of the body. In such cases, use removable hinges.

Service installation cost:

• 💰 Towbar - 8,000–15,000 rub. (including part).
• 💰 Eyelet - 3,000–6,000 rub. (welding + painting).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about tow hooks

❓ Is it possible to tow a car using a towing loop if there is only one?

No! Towing for one loop (front or back) creates uneven load on the body. This may lead to:

• 🔧 Deformation of the spar.
• 🚗 Loss of control during sudden braking.

Use two loops (front and rear) or towbar.

❓ What is the fine for incorrect towing?

By Art. 12.21 Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation, for violation of towing rules, a fine is provided:

• 🚨 500 rub. - if the cable does not meet the requirements (for example, without reflectors).
• 🚨 1,500 rub. - if towing is carried out with faulty brakes on the flexible hitch.

❓ Is it possible to tow a car with an automatic transmission?

Yes, but with reservations:

• 🔄 The box must be in mode N (neutral).
• 🚗 Speed - no more 30–40 km/h.
• 🔥 Distance - no more 50 km (further the risk of oil overheating).

For CVTs (for example, on Nissan Qashqai) towing prohibited - only tow truck!

❓ What is the difference between a towbar and a towing eye?

Main differences:

Parameter	Towbar	Towing eye
Purpose	For trailers	For evacuation
Load	Up to 3.5 t	Up to 2–3 t
Installation	Stationary or removable	Most often removable

❓ Do I need to register a towbar with the traffic police?

C January 1, 2020 tow bar not subject to registration to the traffic police if:

• 📋 It is certified by GOST R 41.55-2005.
• 🚗 Doesn't change car design (for example, does not require drilling of side members).

If the towbar is installed on commercial transport (for example, Gazelle Next), it may be necessary to make changes to the PTS.